[tomtom]

STG 7C, 7 anything on Lime this summer....

Not an especially inspiring post to kick things off this week...
Taken a week off to rest elbows and fingers after a sustained few weeks of Lime... so..
Mon > Sat. Rest.
Sun: Rubicon... brim full of confidence and nicely rested fingers. No cigar

Next time.....

[fried]

Monday - not a lot
Tuesday - half-hearted shoulder stuff
Wednesday - nowt
Thursday - nothing
Friday - Bois rond/ Canche aux merciers with the nephew etc. The little bastard plucky blighter is always behind me, on the mat or banging on about snakes, so I spend most of the time inventing white problems for him. Amazing even at that age he's not interested in climbing anything unless I tell him its white no.X. He's 5.

Saturday - Shoulder stuff
Sunday - Indoor session. 30° and humid inside, so do loads of easy stuff.

Weight 75.3kg

[Muenchener]

STG: Overhanging pumpy 6b redpoint
MTG: Mittlere Weisse Wand, Konstein.
     Overhanging pumpy 6b onsight
   Alpine multi-pitch in Oberreintal end of June
   250 (proper) practice falls (on rope) in 2011. Current score: 43
LTG: 7a rp; classic big Vs / VIs at local crags (Kaisergebirge, Wetterstein etc.) e.g. West Face Totenkirchl
Place in top half of the field in a local boulder comp

M: London: bouldering at The Arch. "V2s" to "V4s" on the Arch bouldering scale. Either this bears little relation to reality or my time to get up a 6B+ has shrunk in the space of a month from two sessions to three or four goes. I suspect the former. Still, nice relaxed venue with some good setting.
T: Attend to family business; flight home cancelled; Arch again. Green circuit "V2" to "V4" feels mostly straightforward, with some exceptions.
W: Boulderwelt. Group technique coaching session #3. Today I was mostly failing to: toehook. Hurrah, opportunity to learn something new.
T:
F: yoga
S:
S: Wall, Thalkirchen, short visit with Frau M. Eight routes. Onsighted an overhanging pumpy 6a+, yyfy: important step on the way to overhanging 6b.

[i_a_coops]

Lots of work, pullups most days. Foot now fully weight bearing in brace!

Saturday: Went climbing! Redpointed a 6b, had to fight like a honey badger.
Ill-advisedly flashed a V4.

Finger's still not happy. Advice welcome on what to do to help 3 month old damage to the collateral ligament in the PIP joint? Currently rubbing it, stretching it, doing pullups on a bar regularly and icing it as often as I remember, as it's still a little swollen.

[heelhookofglory]

M: 8km recovery MTB ride at Churnet, very muddy, good fun.
T: REST
W: Beastmaker session, 3 sets of repeaters (4-finger open, 3-finger open, 4-finger slopers). Fingers feel worked.
T: 10km steady MTB ride at Churnet. Beastmaker session, 3 sets of repeaters (4-finger open, 3-finger open, 4-finger slopers).
F: REST
S: Wicked 3hr session at Craig y Longridge V0--V3 completed (all flashed except the V3 which took 2 or 3 goes, annoyingly) but was very hot. Felt really good until skin finally gave up for the day!
S: 20km MTB ride at Churnet. 2 sets of repeaters (4-finger open, 3-finger open, 4-finger slopers). Tired today.

Weight: 143.0 lbs (goal: 140 lbs)

[205Chris]

STG: Powerplant

M: Works. Brief campus session then some of the harder circuit problems
T: 4x4s with Duncan Disorderly at the Edge.
W: Onsighting at high tor right wing. Some good climbing interspersed with some shockingly loose rock as I discovered when I pulled a hold off the start of a route and hit the ground. Luckily there was a tree behind me which provided a handy spot leaving me with nothing worse than a few bruises.
T: Nada
F: Cornice. Warm up and have 2 redpoints on Powerplant. Fell off the last move of the crux which represents a new high point.
S: Nada
S: Cornice again with DD. Warm up and join the queue on Powerplant. 1st redpoint fell at the same point as Friday. 2nd redpoint fell off mid-crux, rested, then led from below the crux to the top in one push.

Getting annoyingly close to Powerplant but still no cigar. Keep reminding myself it's early in the season and there's plenty of time yet. Just need some of Shark's trademark tenacity now.

[nik at work]

Is this the same Shark who's given up on the Oak?

[tommytwotone]

STG - Tick the Cliff up to 6c+
LTG - Font 7b

M - Depot session, back on the comp problems. Got a couple more done, now all that's left are the very hard ones.
T - Board session with new (much harder) hold config - very beasted after 90 mins down there.
W - Gym, did "gymathlon" - 1k row, 5k run, 10k bike, combined time sub 1 hour. Wrung t-shirt out after and stumbled home.
T - After work Calog session. Awful conditions, v sweaty. Banged in mileage on easier circuit.
F - Nowt - after work ales in beer garden.
S - Rubicon. V hot. Got crimpy 6bs through RHS traverses done and Miller's Tale. Slight progress on Bigger Splash. England match, cricket highlights, beers, beers in Leeds and dub night till 2am when we got back.
S - Wrecked from previous day's efforts.

[shark]

Is this the same Shark who's given up on the Oak?

The battle recommences in September.

[nik at work]

That's what I like to hear

[shark]

Weight 11.7-4

M Cycle ride with Tom
T
W
T Eve, Jog at Burbage with both boys
F
S Went to Roc Fest with boys. Hot as. Great event - about 250 took part. Tom won the JuniorA and I came 2nd in Mens Vets. Met Richie Crouch. Mega finals for the men's and women's open - Sheffield won 
S Chee Dale with Robin and Tom. Reacquainted with Toys for the Boys. Felt stronger on the moves and got some new beta from Hungry Steve and Keith.

Had a 5 day rest from climbing/training, watched diet and managed to lose 3/4lbs. Feel fresher and keener for it. Tor on tues morning and back to Nettle on thurs eve hopefully. Probably do some trad on Staffs grit prior to area meet on weds if anybody fancies sharing a lift from Sheffield

[cheque]

STG: E1 on big cliffs this summer- specifically Rock Idol in July. 6C.
MTG:  E2, 7a and 7A before end of 2011.
LTG: Onsighting long E4s before my planned 2013 USA trip.

M- Resting from weekend canoeing.
T- Nothing.
W- Pleasley Vale solo bouldering. Quite a few problems I hadn't done before.
T- Rest.
F- Nothing.
S- Nothing.
S- Celebrate 3-year climbing anniversary with first-ever bouldering trip to Stoney. Good session despite getting completely spanked for the first half hour.

[pyrosis]

STG: Become consistent with non-climbing fitness practices, Font 7B on two different rock types (one to go)
MTG: Font 7C by the end of the year

M: Bouldered at Markleeville, near Tahoe. Bunch of fun steep volcanic problems. Sent Last Samurai 6C, worked on various 7A-7B including King Kong 7B
T: Bouldered at Bliss, West Shore of Tahoe. Techy granite fun. Sent Gunslinger, 6C
W: Work, rest
T: Work, rest
F: Work, rest
S: Work, rest
S: Sad Boulders, worked on various 7A-7B including Pow Pow 7B, getting closer!   Work.

[Barratt]

M: Campus session at Works
T: Matrix session, bit tired but tried hard.
W: General work out at home inc shoulder stability, getting closer to full front lever.
T: Cycle round dam and back, about 10k
F: Beer/rest
S: Easy bike ride with Mrs Barratt
S: Works Session, trying the pinks, got a few first go. Felt quite strong but faded fast, that will be the beer kicking in I suspect!

Good week, exercised all bar one day. There's little structure to my training other than at the moment and for the next couple of months I'm really looking to focus on basic power. I must say I'm enjoying it, looking forward to the campus session at lunch

A possible trip to kentmere on Friday, fingers crossed for the weather.

[nai]

Aims

M - having weighed in at 9st 1lb on Sat AM quite puzzled to see 9:6 registering

Fri - circuits at Works - 8xgreen with 2mins rest before skin blistered.  Switched to 4x4 type thing on smaller holds, rest down to 1 minute, did about 6 sets. Eve - 400 core, 125 pressups.

Rest week for me too, fingers feel better but shoulder still tweaky.  Weight back to 9:2 this morning.  Feeling good and ready to go.

[Luthor]

TG  - Get some sport route mileage in the low/mid sevens.
MTG  - F7c Sport route in 2011. Add to the fairly small list of font 7b bouldering ticks.
LTG  - font 7c & F8a

Mon     - busy
Tue     - busy
Wed     - busy
Thurs   - busy
Fri     - busy
Sat     - Chee Dale. Did Whose line is it anyway? Quality route :-)
Sun     - short bouldering session at works in morning. felt tired.

[jamiev]

2011 goals - mainly just climb loads.

-Do lots of quality 7as - bs. (2011 so far 1x7a+onsight; 1x 7a+/b redpoint; 2x7a+ redpoint; 5x7a redpoint; 1x7a flash)
-F7c sport redpoint, F7a onsight (? x1 7a+ onsight in france in April)
-Several summer trad goals incl Resurrection.

Mon- big family walk in Wales
Tues- cornice. Redpointed Whose Line is it Anyway. Superb and pleased after coming off top move a few times on previous redpoint session.
Weds -
Thurs -
Fri -
Sat - Cheedale. warm up War Memorial, then got on Martial Music, came off top roof twice on redpoint. good route should go this week. Then a quick flash of a 6b at Max's wall.
Sun - Works w/ son for hour in evening. A few boulder probs, 3 x laps on 7a+ circuit, 1 failed lap on 7c circuit. Anaerobic circuit/core training at home in evening.

Satisfying start to week with Tuesday's redpoint. Various work commitments meant that when saturday came was feeling tired and lethargic. Back to proper training efforts this week.

[Big Dave]

Busy week at work and home, so quiet one training/climbing:

Mon -
Tue -
Wed - gym weights session, including weighted chins
Thu -
Fri -
Sat - evening bouldering at Wimberry
Sun - day trip to Lake District with missus and kids

[webbo]

Mon.Leeds wall felt crap but climbed ok.Did a yellow v7 and also eliminated a dab on another problem.
Tue.Rockcity just repeated stuff.
Wed.nothing.
Thu.bike 1 hr 40 mins.
Fri.nothing
Sat. Visited crag x on North York moors.Did a couple of new problems and other stuff upabout 6c+.Felt wrecked from the walk in and out,ploughing through the heather.
Sun.Shoulders feel sore from yesterdays pad carrying.Nothing.

[andybfreeman]

Goal - sort out my fecking finger!!

M - rest after tweaky sunday at portland

T - long day at work + swollen PIP joint robbed me of psyche so more rest

W - TCA session. Felt fine warming up. Did lots of volume, c. 60 problems, to get good and warm then got on the circuits aiming to work PE. Abandoned after 15 moves when I felt my finger get tweaked again. Have realised that my wrist/finger positioning is now key as if i have my hand straight then i can pull on anything but as soon as my wrist has to bend, like for a sidepull that you can't layback, it feels horribly tweaky

Th - Su - icing and resting. PIP joint still swollen and sore

I plan to see Ru, the osteo, at TCA for some more advice re my finger as it's getting extremely frustrating!

Weight consistent at high 68s 0 68.7kg this morning - not too bad given inactivity!

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals: And on and on.... Same basically.

M: Chill
T: 4x4's @ The Edge with Chris - Good session, sneaked the odd 6c+ and 7a into the sets - Nice!
W: Power session in the cellar - 6 x hard probems repeated 3 times with 3 mins between reps... Almost burst
T: Works - Tried to do a PE session but could hardly pull on... Did a few purple problems then sacked it off.
F: REST
S: PE session in the Cellar - 4 x 40 moves with 3 mins, rest and repeat - Felt hard but easier than the last time I did this - Wasn't dry heaving! Reult!
S: Cornice with Chris - Warmed up on Further Adventures in Greendale (stupidly taking a rest due to incompetent route reading - made worse by the fact I flashed it last year).. Tried the Corniceman - Got shut down.. Manned the fuck up and redpointed it! Attempted to onsight Big Zipper - Took a lob off the top! Arse!

Not a bad week all told... Still feeling like I'm over reachig and therefore underperforming but got a bit more psyche than last week, set some nails problems on my board and actually did some of them.. Managed to get something ticked which is a psychological boost and took some decent falls... Still feeling like a fish out of water when I'm on rock but it's begining to come together and I'm really, really enjoying being on the sharp end on the real stuff again.

This week: Take it easy in preparation for Spain on Friday.. Might do a final Power and PE session early this week and go for a run or 2...

:D

[shark]

S: Cornice with Chris - Warmed up on Further Adventures in Greendale (stupidly taking a rest due to incompetent route reading - made worse by the fact I flashed it last year).. Tried the Corniceman - Got shut down.. Manned the fuck up and redpointed it! Attempted to onsight Big Zipper - Took a lob off the top! Arse!

Not a bad week all told... Still feeling like I'm over reachig and therefore underperforming

   What you did yesterday was a better performance than any of your climbing days at Arco last October IIRC. Sounds like you should still keep your foot on the gas to me.

[joe dobson]

Aims for the end of summer
1. First font 7c
2. The F7c+ traverse at Longridge

Mon: Core Workout
Tues: Weighted pull ups and core workout
Wed: Weighted pull ups
Thurs: Weighted pull ups and core workout
Fri: Rest day
Sat: Epic core session
Sun: Weighted pull ups

My arms are feeling really strong atm, finger is feeling slightly better but i don't feel i can climb on it yet without further provoking it. So no trips to the wall, thinking about doing some trad later this week after my exams are over!

[Duncan Disorderly]

S: Cornice with Chris - Warmed up on Further Adventures in Greendale (stupidly taking a rest due to incompetent route reading - made worse by the fact I flashed it last year).. Tried the Corniceman - Got shut down.. Manned the fuck up and redpointed it! Attempted to onsight Big Zipper - Took a lob off the top! Arse!

Not a bad week all told... Still feeling like I'm over reachig and therefore underperforming

   What you did yesterday was a better performance than any of your climbing days at Arco last October IIRC. Sounds like you should still keep your foot on the gas to me.

Well that is true but my performance at Arco was truly log .... I (stupidly) didn't try anything below 7a+ either IIRC... but you're right, gotta keep on keeping on.. 

:D

[duncan]

M: London: bouldering at The Arch. "V2s" to "V4s" on the Arch bouldering scale. Either this bears little relation to reality or my time to get up a 6B+ has shrunk in the space of a month from two sessions to three or four goes. I suspect the former. Still, nice relaxed venue with some good setting.

Sorry we couldn't meet up - family and injury limiting any kind of climbing currently.  The green circuit "V2-V4" are nothing like that grade.  Individual problems are usually a little closer to reality but still on the soft side.  Arch grading is generally internally consistent and problems are usually interesting once they get beyond about V2 which is much the most important thing.