[ghisino]

so out of a number of reasons i came to the conclusion that if i want to target my crimp-specific endurance, the most practical way is to do it on a hangboard
(the good one would be to set up those fingery boulder problems that are so unfashionable at my gym, and quit my job so i can run laps on them without the crowds)

format : 6 secs on-6secs off, repeat until failure.

today i did two repetitions when the gym started to get too crowded for running laps on the boulders, one getting to 6 minutes (so 30 hangs)  the other to 5 (25 hangs)

question : would you say that 6'/30 hangs are the same (for my forearms) as a 60 moves routes, so "long" endurance?
or, say, 10 hangs=20 moves, power-endurance like?

or is it more complicated than that?

[Nibile]

i think it's a bit more complicated. the rest you get in 6 sec on the ground is better than what you find on a route. i don't know really, when i felt the need of some endurance i was doing 1 minute hangs but not on crimps! hmmm... far too complicated gian!

[tomtom]

Why not foot on exercises (on a chair behind the board - at whatever distance back to make it more/less overhanging etc..) and then you can take one hand off/shake out etc.. and then swap hands etc..? This will also work the core as you're compensating for having one hand on/off? Then just keep this up as long as you can!

[nai]

I've been sticking with the Beastmaker 7on 3off splits. I assume that is meant to emulate the amount of time spent on each hold of a boulder problem so it would work for a PE redpoint too, I suppose a longer hold (15s?) every 6th rep would emulate making a clip?

Like with BM training I perform different numbers of hangs, 3-5 minutes which is 18-30 hangs then rest for 2-4 minutes and repeat.  I tried a 4x4x4 routine which I didn't quite have time for but two sets left my forearms feeling like they'd had a decent workout.

It's not as good as actual climbing but it's better than nothing when time makes the wall impossible.

[ghisino]

Why not foot on exercises (on a chair behind the board - at whatever distance back to make it more/less overhanging etc..) and then you can take one hand off/shake out etc.. and then swap hands etc..? This will also work the core as you're compensating for having one hand on/off? Then just keep this up as long as you can!

whenever i tried it i've always felt that i was unconsciously making it too easy (too much weight on my feet, swapping hands too fast or too slow). It is too close to actual climbing i guess, and climbing reflexes (good shake-out habits) get in the way...

the nice thing about how i tried it yesterday was that the intensity felt perfect : whatever i am training that way, it feels hard and there's no way to "cheat", plus adjusting the intensity to make it shorter or longer would be trivial (add weight or use a bigger crimp)

the weird thing was that i didn't really feel pumped, in the sense of stiff flushed ready-to-explode forearms. It was more like strenght saying goodbye at some point, with forearms still feeling "soft".
On actual routes i feel roughly the same in two situations : a)long rest-crux-rest-crux piches, only if my general endurance is already good. eg, last days of a céuse trip b) shorter routes (gym, PE stuff), climbed with incomplete rests in between (rest time equals belayer's climbing time and no more)

I already have a hard time classifying a) and b), that's way i'm asking myself what am i really training.

[Muenchener]

Heelhook big holds on the board instead of stepping off?

[Dexter]

if you want to feel more of a pump I would say spend more time hanging than resting so for example try the BM 7 on 3 off or 6 on 4 off since this will get the pump going. For full on endurance try something like max hangs too so just hang as long as you can

[SA Chris]

Heelhook big holds on the board instead of stepping off?

If it's above a doorway, throw an egyptian into the doorframe?

[Probes]

I've done in the past of an inch n half flat edge, 10 secs hang both hands, 8 secs rest, repeated for about 15 mins. I found it very successful for endurance/sustained pump climbing (froggin). Playing with the 8 secs was the key, as my recovery improved you drop to 7. Only minor but you felt it after 15 mins.

[tunaficiency]

I remember stevie haston saying that 7- 10 sec hangs for bouldering, up to 20 seconds for sport and up to 30 for trad. What i tried was doubling the classic 7 sec on and 3 off,
with 14 sec hangs and 7 off do that for 2 minutes rest 2 or 3 minutes repeat 2 or 3 times have a 10 minute break and repeat. I did it on the beastmaker with large rungs and 25 degree slopers and you could break eggs on your forearms after that.

[Nibile]

I resurrect this because I am starting some PE training and asked some advise around, especially to The Guru.
before I used to do 1 min hangs on good holds, immediately followed by a max dead hang on a small hold. repeat until thrashed.
I also did 20 secs hang followed by 5 pull ups for three times without stepping off the holds. it was again roughly 1 minute, but harder than the simple dead hang obviously.

now I will start doing sets of one max dead hang immediately followed by one max pull up, for 15 times in a row. 6 sets of this. clearly I will have to change the holds accordingly to progressive tiredness.
looks promising.
hope this helps.

[Nibile]

in case anyone is interested. i did my first session of this yesterday. it's heavy. it packs in 90 pull ups and roughly 15 minutes of pure dead hangs. i alternated harder and easier sets according to fatigue but still my forearms nearly exploded! great fun!

[Muenchener]

the good one would be to set up those fingery boulder problems that are so unfashionable at my gym

I have two good local bouldering walls, one owned by the German Alpine Club (DAV) and one commercial. Both are very good, and there's a big contrast in styles (even better).

The commercial one has a setting style focused on fun moves / big round slopy blobs / nobody gets hurt, and - at least at the 6A/Bish level I'm currently operating at - a crimp is a rare beast indeed. The DAV one is focused less on fun for the masses and more on training and always has a reasonable proportion of fingery problems. They even just set a crimps traverse; it's almost like being back on the back wall at the MacDougall Centre (let's see if anybody else here is old enough to know what that means)

[shark]

now I will start doing sets of one max dead hang immediately followed by one max pull up, for 15 times in a row. 6 sets of this. clearly I will have to change the holds accordingly to progressive tiredness.

in case anyone is interested. i did my first session of this yesterday. it's heavy. it packs in 90 pull ups and roughly 15 minutes of pure dead hangs. i alternated harder and easier sets according to fatigue but still my forearms nearly exploded! great fun!

 


Note to self: Train harder 

[Nibile]

 
funnily enough that's just what I keep telling myself!!!