[StillTryingForTheTop]

Hi there,

First post, so apologies if topics already exist, I have mainly just been lurking at looking at the awesome photos / videos on this site.

I've just been reading an article on Ueli Steck in "Climbing" magazine, and whilst it doesn't go in to any detail, it list some of his training routines.

I appreciate that he is at a skill / training level way above that of myself, but as part of his training regime he regularly (3 to 4 days a week) spends about 1 hour stretching.

I have been climbing for about 6 - 9 months now so I am currently searching on ways to optimise my training routine, and I am just wondering if anyone knows what kind of stretching training would be employed at this level?  Currently I stretch for about 5 - 10 minutes before climbing, and have no idea of how to beneficially extend this to a longer session, and what I should be doing on the days I do climb.

Any tips much appreciated

Gary

[erm, sam]

Watch TV in this position, but don't slouch like the bloke in the picture.. It will help you get your hips closer to the wall/rock, keeping weight more over the feet.

[StillTryingForTheTop]

It is a good technique, I've done several martial arts before so stretched like this, it is hard to get pressure over the legs without leaning forward though.

Gary

[shark]

It is a good technique, I've done several martial arts before so stretched like this, it is hard to get pressure over the legs without leaning forward though.

Gary

Try with your back against the wall and press down on your knees with your hands

[Paul B]

Maybe have a read of Feehally's Flexi Madness on Beastmaker.co.uk. I can't think of a better person to take stretching advice from.

[Muenchener]

And don't stretch before climbing, esp. not forearms/upper body. There are studies showing that stretching temporarily weakens the stretched muscles. Stretch at the end of a session as part of your warm down, or in separate sessions.

[StillTryingForTheTop]

And don't stretch before climbing, esp. not forearms/upper body. There are studies showing that stretching temporarily weakens the stretched muscles. Stretch at the end of a session as part of your warm down, or in separate sessions.

Thanks, will bear that in mind

[StillTryingForTheTop]

Maybe have a read of Feehally's Flexi Madness on Beastmaker.co.uk. I can't think of a better person to take stretching advice from.

Thanks, will check that out

Gary

[Ruraltim]

As previously mentioned   http://ukbouldering.com/board/Smileys/ukbCustom/icon_agree.gif        Don't stretch before climbing BUT warm up with lots of dynamic movements - swinging etc. I noticed a big difference when I stopped pre climbing stretching especially on injuries.

General post climbing stretching from moon climbing:

http://usa.moonclimbing.com/stretches-lower-body-c-334_349.html

Beastmaker stretching mentioned above.

http://www.beastmaker.co.uk/Stretching.pdf

Some sport injury stuff for good measure.

http://www.sportsinjuryclinic.net/cybertherapist/back/hamstrings/tighthams/hastringstretches.php

[Baron]

And don't stop stretching. Little and often.

I put a curve in my back from years of climbing/jumping off/falling off. Took 2 years of regular stretching (10 min yoga routine cadged from Mr Ali) to straighten it out.

[Fultonius]

I noticed a big difference when I stopped pre climbing stretching especially on injuries.

As in you got more injuries when you stopped, or less?

[StillTryingForTheTop]

Thanks for the links

As previously mentioned   http://ukbouldering.com/board/Smileys/ukbCustom/icon_agree.gif        Don't stretch before climbing BUT warm up with lots of dynamic movements - swinging etc. I noticed a big difference when I stopped pre climbing stretching especially on injuries.

General post climbing stretching from moon climbing:

http://usa.moonclimbing.com/stretches-lower-body-c-334_349.html

Beastmaker stretching mentioned above.

http://www.beastmaker.co.uk/Stretching.pdf

Some sport injury stuff for good measure.

http://www.sportsinjuryclinic.net/cybertherapist/back/hamstrings/tighthams/hastringstretches.php

[slackline]

Kay AD, Blazevich AJ. (2011) Effect of Acute Static Stretch on Maximal Muscle Performance: A Systematic Review. Med Sci Sports Exerc. 2011 Jun 8. (Epub ahead of print)

Shades of grey, >= 60 seconds results in decreased performance, whilst <= 45seconds doesn't appear to. 

[Muenchener]

Shades of grey, >= 60 seconds results in decreased performance, whilst <= 45seconds doesn't appear to. 

Interesting. Do you have access to the full article and do they suggest a mechanism? <speculate>Over 60 seconds long enough to induce creep in connective tissues / inhibit golgi response / something?</speculate>

[slackline]

I expect I do (institutional access), but haven't had time to read it.

I doubt there is speculation as to the mechanism as its a systematic review/meta-analysis so they're just using other peoples published research and seeing what the overall evidence is.