I have been working on a problem at Savassona. On Pedra del Dau (Bldr 9 in the toppo).
I will have to leave Spain shortly (as some of you will be aware) and with rain forecast this weekend; I'm not going to get back to finnish it.
So far I've just refered to it as "Nemesis".
Someone finnish it for me!
It starts between "La Classica" and "Francios Nicole"
scan0001 by
oldmanmatt, on Flickr
Shown in very clear ink...
P3260030 by
oldmanmatt, on Flickr
Using the undercling (A) and a reach around the edge (B) (foot under B), Pull through to the pinch (C).
Heel hook B, Left hand up to good crimp (D), Pull through to smaller (still good) crimp (E) (RH).
LH up to (not very good) pocket (F).
Short Dyno to good pocket (G).
The channel (and its edges) above D are off route (They're on the "other" side of the boulder...)
I just can't make the Dyno, the bulge is too great (or my head is not straight, you pick)
I'm thinking 6c, though it's quite strong.
7a if everyone struggles with the Dyno...
P3260034 by
oldmanmatt, on Flickr
Steeper than it looks in the other two photos