[tomtom]

STG & 7C on grit... 7anthing on lime..

Pursuing my summer lime mission, this week I have mainly been at Rubicon
Mon: rest
T: rest
W: Beastmakerage
T: rest
Fri: Rubicon..
Sat: rest
Sun: Rubicon..

No headlines, but making steady progress on 'A bigger tail' and 'A bigger splash'.. enjoying the lime and my fingers and strength is starting to adjust to the different style. Warm ups and warm up problems are now a breeze rather than a nightmare.. I suspect the above two are a couple of weeks away, but should go this summer. I also managed to pull on/hold the starting holds/foot up on the press for at least a second.. (it nearly killed me) which is a considerable improvement on previous efforts

[fried]

Goals :- 6A in the forest. Zip Zut at Isatis, although I've honestly done harder slabs graded 4.

Monday - work
Tuesday - Shoulder stuff
Wednesday - Isatis, did my 6A, then got shut down on just about everything else. I learnt a lesson today...
Thursday - work
Friday - Go to le pres
Saturday - Morning at Buthiers, coffee in the Canard, do some blues ache a lot, have lunch in the Canard (so-so), siesta, late afternoon in petit bois, do some blues and red (Quelle Conque was fun)
Sunday - try to find Fosse aux loups without a map or instructions....give up....go home.

[Falling Down]

Trying to get back into training after weeks of a virus and a hellish work schedule.

M
T
W - Run 45 mins, hard work and lungs tight but still good to get out
T
F - Row, 5k in 20:02
S - Climbing at Masson Lees to 6c+ with Galpinos - a good day out despite feeling tired after a week of long days.
S - Long walk with dogs and a gentle 45 minute row

Aims this week: I'm going to Copenhagen, London and Kazakhstan in the next 7 days so a session in the gym, a run and a day out climbing will be a good week.

[Luthor]

STG  - Sardine. Get out and climb; Stay psyched; train well, not get injured...
MTG  - F7c Sport route in 2011. Add to the fairly small list of font 7b bouldering ticks.
LTG  - font 7c & F8a

Mon     - rest
Tue     - Sucessful redpoint of Sardine at the Tor.
Wed     - rest
Thurs   - Circuits session at the Works. Bouldered at Carls Walk/Stoney. Worked the traverse and did Scarab start
Fri     - light boulder at works
Sat     - light boulder at Burbage.
Sun     - rest

Really chuffed to get Sardine ticked. Cheers Nigel for beta and holding ropes.

[Barratt]

Steady week, mainly climbing outside with two sessions down the works.

Outside:
Carls Walk Trav: Got the traverse done, just need to do the finishing moves to break for full tick.
Burbage South: Played on the boulders, did pockman from the sit. Moved up to edge and repeated PebbleMill Trav. Surprise tick of Violence, first time I've tried it. Little gem was very close but not quite.
Burbage South: Steady session, felt tired but nice to plod roun the boulders.

[205Chris]

STG: Powerplant

M: Repeaters on Beastmaker but bit tired from the previous day.
T: Nada
W: Long aerocap session at the Edge
T: Nada
F: Cornice. Warm up on Martial Music then put the clips up Powerplant. Go for a redpoint attempt and fail mid crux. Rest for a few minutes and then climb from the undercuts through the crux to the top. Wander over to max wall for a bit of mileage.
S: Nada
S: Plans for further afield were put on hold by the weather. Went to two tier with Nai instead. Warm up on Max Wall then get on The Sea is a Brown Paper Bag. 2 redpoint attempts with my best effort reaching the slot at the top of the bulge but not sticking it. Annoyingly this is my high point from last year.

Amazing what difference a couple of days makes. Psyched on Friday after my best effort on Powerplant. After a couple of weeks of sieging Powerplant I was hoping for some psychological gains from clipping anchors. Frustrated after today as despite feeling fitter / stronger than last year I was no closer to The Sea.......

Torn between sticking with Powerplant or taking a couple of weeks off to try and bag a few easier ticks.

[nai]

Aims
.
m -
t - Intervals on fingerboard 4x 3mins on (13x7s hangs + 2x17s to emulate clip), 1:30 mins rest .  4 mins rest between 4th & 5th sets.  Intensity about right, struggling toward the end of sets.
w
t - attempted max hangs but very poor show, 125 pressups, 425 core reps, 3x10 sets leg raises hanging from bar.
f - tor bloddering, cold and creaky, took ages to warm up and was afraid to pull too hard, just about managed Saline Drip.  Later on right wrist became achey and stiff and fingers were obviously swollen.
s - swelling down, RICEd.
s - down dale with 205Chris.  RP'd Blockhead 1st go after putting the clips in and working out the foot sequence properly, pleased with that.  Tried a couple of other things but wasn't really psyched for them.

Good way to finish the week, concerned about my fingers though, try to get safely through Thursday this week then it's half term and an enforced break.

[i_a_coops]

Last two weeks: messing about on pullup bar most days, occasional bouts of situps. Left foot is 50% weight bearing, should be walking around in regular shoes after another 3 weeks! Prognosis of another month or so for my finger (collateral ligament damage)

Today: Went climbing for the first time since accident, no head issues climbing above clips, I still only have one working leg but I crushed three 6a+s like a boss. CHA'MONE!

[cheque]

STG: E1 on big cliffs this summer- specifically Rock Idol in July. 6C.
MTG:  E2, 7a and 7A before end of 2011.
LTG: Onsighting long E4s before my planned 2013 USA trip.

M- Rest.
T- Chasecliffe bouldering. Did my project  Started a new one.
W- Rest.
T- Beastmaker repeaters. Measurably stronger than last week.
F- Rest.
S- Solo Amber Valley exploration. Some easy boulder problems and soloing. Psyched to return.
S- Pleasley Vale on my own. Did a problem I've been trying for ages with an intrigued yokel spotting!

Definitely getting stronger and generally better at climbing.  Hopefully I'll be able to find partners next week so I can work on my endurance.

[shark]

Thanks tomtom

Weight: 11.7-8

M.
T.AM. Tor with Tommy. Tried Crucifixion. Repeatedly failed to get thru start of Push-Up (BM Direct start). Felt greasy. Did a link from the Push-Up overlap to small roof on Prow and fell pulling through it. Dogged top.
W. Felt tired
T. Eve. Hot stones massage.
F.
S. Tor. Morning. Dogged up Tin Of felt terrible. First go on Crucifixion flashed thru Push-Up and got up to small roof and fell same place as Tues. Felt demoralised.Struggled on Push-Up. Did a link from Rev belay got to same point as on Tuesday and dogged to top. Boys worked TinOf on TR again.
S. Tor. Persuaded Sonia to come out with kids first thing to belay me for an hour. Took 3 attempts to get thru lower Sardine traverse! Nearly packed up. Then had a good single go on Crucifixion and pulled all the stops out falling near the top a couple of moves short of easy ground discvering a couple of new resting tricks en route.

Not sure where I am or going with climbing/training/psyche at the moment  .

Left shoulder a bit tweaky.

Hopefully Crucifixion will go down soon though.

[cheque]

Goals :- 6A in the forest.

STG  - Sardine.

 

[Muenchener]

STG: Overhanging pumpy 6b redpoint
MTG: Mittlere Weisse Wand, Konstein.
     Overhanging pumpy 6b onsight
   Alpine multi-pitch in Oberreintal end of June
   250 (proper) practice falls (on rope) in 2011. Current score: 43
LTG: 7a rp; classic big Vs / VIs at local crags (Kaisergebirge, Wetterstein etc.) e.g. West Face Totenkirchl
Place in top half of the field in a local boulder comp (was 62/103 in last week's 3rd round at boulderwelt)

M: Bouldering, Thalkirchen. Started work on newly-set red & green circuits, with the aim of completing them in fewer total attempts than in the winter. Aerocap traversing as warm up & warm down.
T: 
W: Boulderwelt. Group coaching session with Bavarian champion Markus Grünebach, whose foot sequence gets me up a problem on the 6B/C ciruit second go. Session #1 of 3.
T:
F: Weights, office gym. Goblet sqats, shoulders, core, reverse wrist curls
S: (Kid's birthday party. Hard Very Strenuous)
S: yoga

[webbo]

Mon.eatswood rocks ended up on the right handside in an attempt to warm up out of the wind.Did something that may have been the 2 v6s.Went to the business end and flounced around.
Tue. Rockcity just repeated stuff did about 35 problems.
Wed.Bike 0ne and half hours.
Thu. Leeds wall repeated stuff got close on a couple of v7s and did a v6 I couldn't do last week.
Fri. nothing.
Sat.Frogatt and Curbar.Warmed on pinnacle boulders before heading down to Break out the trumpets.Worked out and did something that appears to match the description.Good moves. Had a quick flail on Bruno before heading back to Frogatt with more flailing a long the way.
Sun.Weights,bike 2 hours.

[andybfreeman]

Goals as before. Finger definitely improving so need to work on fitness before getting back on routes.

M - Weights and core at home

Tu - Good session at TCA. progress on yellows and mothership probs, thanks to Jim and Duma for the winning beta! Forgot to try my green project when fresh and made no progress as a result!

W - Rest

Th - Excellent session at TCA. Warmed up sans tape and my finger felt better than it has done for a good while. Still avoided dirty crimping but felt solid as a rock open handed even on smaller holds. Did 3 new yellow problems with Omar and got close to a couple more

F - Drive to  Croyde after work for weekend by the seaside! Plenty of beer, food and fun

Sa - Good tide times for a session at Hartland. Weather was less helpful and the rain almost stopped play. Got a quick repeat of Trench Eliminate 7A but Carnage was gopping.

Su - Back to Hartland with better weather. Managed to get up a  6B+ in the trench that had spat me off in the rain and then flashed the (soft) 6c+ next to it. Went for a first look at the Clinical Edge block and managed both Clinical Edge and Me Julie both 7B to round off a very good day  .

Weight consistent at average of 68.4kg for the week. Bit heavy for routes but hopefully long sessions of circuits will sort that!

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals: 7b+ in a session, 7c/+ in 2011, 8a before 1st Jan 2014

M: Power session - 6 x 7 move problems that I found nails 3 times with some rest...
T: PE Session - 8 x 40 move circuits on my board. Dry heaving on last set!! Skin was destroyed!
W: 4x4 session @ The Edge with Chris - Kept it steady, did better than expected considering the previous 2 days!
T: Onsighting session @ The Edge - Onsighted 6c+ (hard), 7a, 7a (hard) and lob off a 7b.
F: Drive to Slipstones, pull up in carpark and it lashed it down - 5 mile walk, climbed a bit of wet grit and had an early night.
S: Mate's stag do in Masham - Got too leathered on Black Sheep and Landlord.
S: Hungover AM, Works PM - Felt like shit so did a full circuit up to 6A - Good workout!

The week started well, and looked to be progressing nicely before rapidly dropping off the scale.... Reached and breached my  real ale tolerance level, worked out that I'm shit at clay pigeon shooting (like I give a f*ck) and that I probably shouldn't show my face in Masham for a while
On a positive note I did find out that after enough ale I can get a whole crowded pub singing Bob Marley songs and doing so does get you bought additional real ale

:D

[heelhookofglory]

Bit of an odd week this week so nothing major to report.

M: REST
T: 12km mtb steady ride at Churnet and one set of repeaters.
W: REST
T: Bouldering at Cottage Rocks, felt really close on a couple of new projects.
F: 11km mtb steady ride at Churnet.
S: REST
S: Trip to Back Forest but got drenched!

[duncan]

STG: rehabilitate
MTG: Comici / E5 os

M - Aerobic endurance / rehab. (10mins. on x 2)
T - Shoulder stability stuff
W - Aerobic endurance / rehab. (15mins. on), shoulder stability stuff,
T - Aerobic endurance / rehab. (10mins. on x 2)
F -
S- Aerobic endurance / rehab. (15mins. on x 2),
S - Bowles Rocks - tweaked other shoulder...

Good week until Sunday.  Climbed on southern sandstone for the first time since 1994.  Reminded myself why I left it this long to return: more than 2 hours drive for this!!? I could have got to High Tor in nearly the same time.  Then I went and did my other shoulder on the second route of the day. 

[Neil F]

Hopefully Crucifixion will go down soon though.

Good luck, Simon.  It sounds like you are really close.

BTW, has C been done from the ground (up Push Up) yet?  I imagine strong people will not find it too hard, particularly in view of the resting potential you allude to.  But for me, the Push Up start felt so utterly desperate, that the thought of continuing on up Crucifixion is completely outside my comprehension...

I suppose in a normal summer, everyone would just be aiding up the wet start.  It rather changes the dynamic when that horrible new start goes and dries out two months early!

Anyway, having failed to get across the initial Sardine traverse last night, on my first visit to the Tor in 2011, I'm not currently planning any return visits...

Good job I don't indulge in this Fit/Power Club malarkey.  I'd be slitting my wrists by now if I did!

[shark]

Hopefully Crucifixion will go down soon though.

Good luck, Simon.  It sounds like you are really close.

BTW, has C been done from the ground (up Push Up) yet?  I imagine strong people will not find it too hard, particularly in view of the resting potential you allude to.  But for me, the Push Up start felt so utterly desperate, that the thought of continuing on up Crucifixion is completely outside my comprehension...

I suppose in a normal summer, everyone would just be aiding up the wet start.  It rather changes the dynamic when that horrible new start goes and dries out two months early!

It's a bugger - you can't do Push-Up on auto-pilot - its gnarly but its got character. The holds you use are often surprisingly dry even when it looks to be wet. I would still tick Crucifixion if I did it from the Revelations belay but would like to do it from the ground. Its pumpy for sure - however strong you might be and the crux takes some working out. Tommy didnt flash it despite shaking out for an improbably long time last week. I've belayed Steve Mac on it too but he avoided the small roof by going higher up the groove before breaking right then took a flyer when a large hold came off. He started by aiding up Revelations I think but may have done it before. John Clarke and Aly Robertson have done it but not sure how they started. Despite finding the full Prow a path I gather Aly had a 'mare on Crucifixion and had to skip clips and sprint it in the end.

[TobyD]

M endless hours of library; followed by a 4 mile run
T  3 hours work early on, Malham; GBH ticked second go of the day... YYFY... but back to work
W ditto Monday
T ditto Monday and Wednesday, minus the run, plus some fairly half hearted deadhanging and pull ups.
F work ticked. YYFY. Malham i working go on predator, but far too cold and windy, some good links on overnight.
S 4 goes on predator...
S kilnsey; some decent links on urgent action on some fairly moist holds.

[Duma]

Tu - Good session at TCA. progress on yellows and mothership probs, thanks to Jim and Duma for the winning beta!

You're welcome, was good craic on tues.

Sa - Good tide times for a session at Hartland. Weather was less helpful and the rain almost stopped play. Got a quick repeat of Trench Eliminate 7A but Carnage was gopping.
Su - Back to Hartland with better weather. Managed to get up a  6B+ in the trench that had spat me off in the rain and then flashed the (soft) 6c+ next to it. Went for a first look at the Clinical Edge block and managed both Clinical Edge and Me Julie both 7B to round off a very good day.

Sounds like a good weekend, good effort on CE - brilliant isn't it? Get on "Trench Traverse" next time - all the best bits of that wall! Let me know next time you're heading down, always keen for mats/spotters on Carnage wall, and happy to lug people and/or mats in the van. Will PM you my mob.

[chris05]

Goals (2011):

10 x 6C (3 done)
5 x 7A (1 done)
Any 7A+ or ideally a 7B

Injury rehab/prevention:
Stick with elbow/shoulder theraband work
Work on knee and up running mileage again

M: core (500) & theraband
T: 3xDB complex, 3m run, BM: pull-ups and one arm locks, core (500) & theraband
W: nothing
T: nothing
F: 3m run & 3xDB complex
S: bouldering at the churnet
S: theraband

Bit of a rubbish week although i did manage a couple of short runs, which is progress. Good day out at the churnet on Sat, felt absolutely beasted on Sun even though I didn't do anything new. Must try harder this week.

[b3n99]

Sounds like a good weekend, good effort on CE - brilliant isn't it? Get on "Trench Traverse" next time - all the best bits of that wall! Let me know next time you're heading down, always keen for mats/spotters on Carnage wall, and happy to lug people and/or mats in the van. Will PM you my mob.

Count me in if our going down sometime, carnage looks good, think you've got my mobile andy

Ben N

[andybfreeman]

Sounds like a good weekend, good effort on CE - brilliant isn't it? Get on "Trench Traverse" next time - all the best bits of that wall! Let me know next time you're heading down, always keen for mats/spotters on Carnage wall, and happy to lug people and/or mats in the van. Will PM you my mob.

Count me in if our going down sometime, carnage looks good, think you've got my mobile andy

Ben N

Sweet, I'm doing routes this weekend but am super psyched to get back on carnage soon. I'm sure I'll see you both before another opportunity arises but i have your numbers now so will be in touch

[pyrosis]

STG: Become consistent with non-climbing fitness practices, font 7A+ on two different rock types (one to go)
MTG: Font 7B on two different rock types (one to go)
LTG: Font 7C by the end of the year

M: Sad boulders - onsighted a 6B (my best onsight), worked on Pow Pow 7B - no progress
T: Sad boulders - variety of things including Shaft 6C, worked on Erotic Terrorist 7A and Pow Pow 7B, little progress on Pow Pow, I feel I may need some more core strength before its possible
W: Rest, work
T: Buttermilk - nice circuit but nothing of note
F: Buttermilk - ditto of the above
S: Rest, work
S: Rest, work