[cha1n]

Size 10. Worn once (indoors) and have discovered that they won't be any good for me.

Unfortunate because they are probably the best fitting shoe I've ever put on my feet. Figured I'd cut my losses and get them straight on here for £80 posted. (Meaning I've instantly lost £25)

In regards to sizing, I'd usually take a 8.5 in 5.10 VCS and 8 in a Verde. The sizing on these are closer to the Dragon than the Anasazi..

http://fiveten.com/products/footwear-detail/10097-quantum



I think they are more of a bouldering shoe than an all round shoe. I thought it was being marketed as a slightly downturned anasazi but I put it more as a dragon/anasazi LV hybrid.

[Ru]

If they fit well, what's wrong with them?

[Jim]

my thoughts exacly.....

[cha1n]

I climb mainly on vertical, edgy climbs so need something a bit stiffer.

I think these are better suited to steep climbing. I just had a funny 5 minutes because they were so comfortable (whilst being tightly fitted)

[Fultonius]

Unless you're totally racked for cash, just keep'em - in the end of the day you'll get through X pairs of shoes in X years and it doesn't really matter if you buy 2 pairs at once or spread it out.

If they are that good a fit they'll be ace for something, and surely you don;t only do one style of climbing all the time. 

[clgladiator]

saw steve testing these at the tor, they look totally awesome. KEEP THEM!

[cha1n]

They are good but they are definately not edging machines.

I want to get rid of them to put money towards some new Miura VS. I'm getting on some slate in a few weeks so wanted to get them sold before then.. I'll probably buy the miuras anyway but I'd feel alot happier if these were sold first!

[cha1n]

These are still for sale, I'm now breaking in a new pair of (expensive) Miura's!

Open to offers for these..

[cha1n]

and still..

[SA Chris]

I think you started off with a bad sales approach.

SFY rates them though

http://jamespearsonclimbing.blogspot.com/2011/05/510-quantum.html

[cha1n]

Hi Chris

What was the bad approach for future reference?

I rate them aswell, they just don't suit the type of routes I climb. If I was climbing mainly overhanging routes/bouldering or had very strong toes i'd keep them.

I've bought some Miuras to replace my old ones now which are just the ticket for the face climbs you'll usually find me on!

[SA Chris]

Should have put a more positive spin on it! Saying they are a great fit, best I've every had, but still wanting to sell them does put a bit of doubt in people's minds. IMO anyway.

[cha1n]

Well I didn't bother mentioning why I was selling them because for a new model shoe like this i'd expect a potential buyer to have tried them on somewhere before considering buying them, therefore making my reason for sale irrelevant.

I thought that I went on to explain honestly my reason for sale. I lesson learned, that must because a shoe fits you perfectly doesn't mean you'll get on climbing in them.

I forget to mention that they smear very well to because of their relative softness so would be good for gritstone slabs but probably not slate.

[cha1n]

 oh dear, few errors due to posting from phone..

[Paul B]

Should have put a more positive spin on it! Saying they are a great fit, best I've every had, but still wanting to sell them does put a bit of doubt in people's minds. IMO anyway.

TBH I thought the same thing when I tried them on, great fit. However, they've got no backbone and a soft shoe with a toe-down front just doesn't make sense (to me anyway) and thus they went back on the shelf.

For steep bouldering where you're pulling in with your toes etc. they'll be great. In the UK they just don't make sense (again to me). I'm sure they'll be ok on Lime but not compared to white's and the toe-down front made me sceptical of their use on grit and other trad stuff!

[cha1n]

a soft shoe with a toe-down front just doesn't make sense (to me anyway)

A soft, down-turned shoe makes perfect sense. The down-turn adds extra support in the arch by putting the foot in a stronger (curved) position, achieving similar support without the down-turn would require a stiffer sole. This is bad on overhangs because a softer sole makes it easier to feel and grab holds at full stretch. People having been wearing and using shoes like the La Sportiva Cobra for this application for years - a soft shoe, with a down-turn.

My Miura VS are an example of a shoe with a stiff sole AND down-turn and they are pure edging machine, I can stand on anything regardless of size. The few times I've bouldered on the steeps with them I've found that they lack the sensativity required and find it hard to get my feet back on accurately if they pop off on an overhang.

[Paul B]

did you actually read the post?

For steep bouldering where you're pulling in with your toes etc. they'll be great. In the UK they just don't make sense (again to me).

In fact you've even made the point yourself:

or had very strong toes i'd keep them.

being soft and able to feel the holds and pull on them means didly squat if you can't actually transfer weight onto your feet. I understand why they chose to add a down-toed aspect to these shoes but (IMO) all that does is put them at a disadvantage for the stuff that I do where a soft shoe is applicable.

Anyway, Pink Anasazi.

[cha1n]

did you actually read the post?

Yes it was rather ambiguous. I have no idea why a soft shoe would stop you transfering weight onto holds on steep ground so don't really know where you're coming from. I quite often wear my Evolv Defy on steep ground they are about as soft as shoes get and find them great fine.

I think if you're climbing in the 7's upwards, there's plently of steep routes and bouldering to be done in the UK so it's a bit of an invalid point.

They don't work for you and that's fine, they don't work for me either. I think there's plently of people they will work for, hence them being advertised for sale..

[Paul B]

good luck with your sale

[TobyD]

Anyway, Pink Anasazi.

Word. I wonder why the Blanco isn't quite as good, two possibilites, a) the heel which many bitched about, and i always quite liked was actually pretty good, as you can hook the ridge behind things to heel hook really effectively b) salmon pink boots make you climb harder.