[Nibile]

ok,
so as you've seen I haven't climbed the project yet.
summer is almost here, and I want to train properly. I need advice, given these circumstances:
- the climbing walls will be closed
- I have the beastmaker
- I can go bouldering once a week
- I can go sport climbing once, maybe twice a week

the roof project is my main target. I need to be fit enough to climb a five moves 8a+ after 10 moves in a roof at around 7c (no idea really, I only know it's very physical). I need a lot of core tension (I cannot cut loose), but also the necessary power to perform the moves. that's why I think sport climbing on its own won't be enough, I'll lose too much power even trying hard routes, nothing is so physical around here.
I'd like to keep up my finger strength with the beastmaker, to try and get some fitness with sport climbing on short but sustained routes, and to keep going to the project, even in summer: I think it's useful to try it in bad conditions, plus I was thinking about starting trying it with a weight belt.

so, any ideas? suggestions? training plans for free?

[boulderingbacon]

if all you want to do is succeed on the project then practice, practice, practice once all the moves are dialed they will all come together.

[Dexter]

one of the major prolems I found with projects can be psyche (or should that be syke?) just staying motivated if not seeming to progress. The best way I found to avoid this is by mixing it up so my suggestion is if your having some crappy days on it then maybe spen a day bouldering on some similar style stuff or something to stay motivated but stay strong. Other than that I guess lots of training on similar holds,anglesand styles and as boulderingbacon said mileage mileage mileage

[tomtom]

[Wood FT]

Tom you seem to have taken a close up picture of your chest 

[lagerstarfish]

build a Malcolm style board?

[tomtom]

Tom you seem to have taken a close up picture of your chest 

Damn, I thought no-one knew about my new tat.. My left and right nipple is carefully worked Ant and Dec's nose (respectively) giving it a kind of 3d effect. I can make them move when I tense my pecs...

[ghisino]

ciao lore

personally i would try not to go too often to the project.

i have similar issues to dexter : when i've been trying something for a long time, and i get to the point where i don't seem to improve or i even do worse, i need a break.
I focus on other stuff for some months then maybe i get a bit stronger overall and maybe one day i pass by the project and there's good conditions, so i reharse the beta and give a couple serious goes, and maybe i finally do it or i get a new highpoint and get psyched about it again.
And maybe, meanwhile i've topped other interesting stuff.


it doesn't work all the time, but it'a much better for my ego than getting stuck on one single route/boulder and hitting a wall for weeks/months in a row...

[RASTATA]

what about if you stop training and you rather start climbing?!

[ghisino]

what about if you stop training and you rather start climbing?!

guess summer is too warm and humid for any serious climbing, where he lives....

[RASTATA]

what i was trying to say is that according to his beastmaker videos is too strong anyway, so why botherd to train more?
instead take it easy, climb easy stuff, explore new stuff, rest and when good conditions are back BAMMM back to bussines and take down project

[account_inactive]

what i was trying to say is that according to his beastmaker videos is too strong anyway, so why botherd to train more?
instead take it easy, climb easy stuff, explore new stuff, rest and when good conditions are back BAMMM back to bussines and take down project

You mean de-train the get fat and week. No way!

[RASTATA]

no i mean get well rested and climb easy stuff to get into flow and improve your footwork & movement on the rock
or you seriously believe that the only thing that stops him (you) to get on the top of boulders not enough power?   

[Stu Littlefair]

or you seriously believe that the only thing that stops him (you) to get on the top of boulders not enough power?   

Have you met Dylan? It's not a bad hypothesis.

[RASTATA]

no probably not 
better stop now being smart ass 

[account_inactive]

or you seriously believe that the only thing that stops him (you) to get on the top of boulders not enough power?   

Have you met Dylan? It's not a bad hypothesis.

I hate you Littleflair

[dave]

A montreal canadiens jerssy would deffo be an advantage in most climbing situations.

[Nibile]

all the above from everyone is damn right. I should take a break, I should climb other stuff. the problem is that where I live I don't have so much bouldering to allow me to get strong and fit just by climbing outdoors, and the gyms are crap. one is closed for the entire summer and the other one has just vertical walls, one 20° wall and a recently built small 45° board, that is smartly kept with no holds on.
as I said, I don't think I'm not strong enough (cough), I think that I am not fit enough to climb the hard part after the new start.
I think this makes things a bit more complicated, because I really have to work on many different factors at a time, and having no indoor walls it's very difficult.
the reason I want to keep going to the project is obviously to build super specific power-fitness; plus I have another project of identical style so the two things could go together.
anyway I appreciate the replies, and please keep them coming, it's all good to me!!!

[Dexter]

a recently built small 45° board, that is smartly kept with no holds on.

or is it just that youre not strong enough yet to use the bolt holes?

[Nibile]

I like that "yet"...
 

[Richie Crouch]

Sounds like you should take a 2 month vacation to the Orme Lore and work endless P.E. links! 

[Nibile]

that'll be next February.