[205Chris]

t - Two tier, found Blockhead ok but kept making silly errors at the final clip, hadn't memorised the foot sequence properly and despite reworking it after each failed RP had a memory block a little higher each time.

I did this too a couple of times until my friend suggested I clip from the good hold you're going for rather than from below, it does mean you take a bit of a lob if you blow the move but I found that I could focus on the move and save a bit of energy... Did it first go after getting this advice..  Good route...

:D

Me too!! I remember extending the last draw so I could clip it from a lower position. I notice it's gone up to 7b+ in the recent developments guide - felt nails for 7b.

Shark's advice about beta is sound too and I also found this useful redpointing advice:

[nai]

Cheers for the tips guys, I had extended the sling and am happy clipping after making the move off the undercut for the dishy pockety thing.  It's the subsequent foot moves to enable the reach for the diagonal sharp crimp that I fluffed.  I'm confident it'll go next time with a bit of care, busting to get back there but haven't managed to track anyine down for Thu/Fri yet.

And re the grade, with the exception of one guy of 6'5" everyone I know has said 7b+.  Haven't really done enough at the grades to know myself but happy to take it.

[webbo]

Mon. Nothing.
Tue.Rockcity repeated stuff.
Wed. nothing.
Thu.Rockcity short session as planning to go out tomorrow.Repeated a few things then gave myself 5 goes on a v6 I'd not done got it on 3rd go managing to improvise a way through some lank moves.
Fri.Drove to Almscliff pissed down.Leeds wall repeated most of the stuff I did last time.Did a v5 I couldn't do last time.Also managed a hard v6 red for my 35th problem.Having watched someone do it.
Sat. Weights.Bike 1hr 40 mins.
Sun. Bike 2 hrs 20 mins.