[Luthor]

STG  - Sardine. Get out and climb; Stay psyched; train well, not get injured...
MTG  - F7c Sport route in 2011. Add to the fairly small list of font 7b bouldering ticks.
LTG  - font 7c & F8a

Mon     - rest
Tue     - Worked Sardine again at the Tor. Tweaked sequences for both cruxes and managed a clean top-rope ascent.
Wed     - Couple of VS's at Stanage.
Thurs   - Good circuits session at the Works.
Fri     - rest
Sat     - Back to the Tor & Sardine. Led up to and through the crux (just!) on best effort. Felt tired. Hopefully it will go Tuesday.
Sun     - rest

[205Chris]

STG (this summer): Powerplant & various 7b/c routes.

M: Bouldering at the works.
T: Nada
W: Cornice. Probably felt a bit over confident after the weekend and went for the redpoint on Powerplant. Quickly realised this wasn't the way forward and worked the crux moves and refined me sequence for the headwall.
T: Nada
F: Long tor. Ticked the 6c at the left hand end 2nd go after struggling to find a sequence that worked on the onsight. Re opened my account on The Boltest, need to go back and finish it off soon.
S: Nada
S: Cornice. Dog up powerplant and climb the headwall twice to warm up. Next go practice the crux and then link from the undercuts by the third bolt to the top in one go. Third go have a trial redpoint, left foot skids off while matching the undercut, refine my beta for getting matched on the undercut. 4th go climb to crimps and power out, rest, then climb from the crimps to the top.

Been taking it easy since Spain in terms on number of days on training. Feel like I'm making progress on Powerplant after 3 sessions on it. Got to the stage where I can climb it in two overlapping halves although the redpoint still feels a little way off. Will probably have a break from it next weekend as off to Wales / Yorkshire next Sunday.

Torn between making the most of the longer evenings and getting out during the week or putting the hours in indoors during the week and climbing outside on the weekend.

[shark]

S: Cornice. Dog up powerplant and climb the headwall twice to warm up. Next go practice the crux and then link from the undercuts by the third bolt to the top in one go. Third go have a trial redpoint, left foot skids off while matching the undercut, refine my beta for getting matched on the undercut. 4th go climb to crimps and power out, rest, then climb from the crimps to the top.

Torn between making the most of the longer evenings and getting out during the week or putting the hours in indoors during the week and climbing outside on the weekend.

Get back on Powerplant one or two evenings - sounds like you are close

[205Chris]

Get back on Powerplant one or two evenings - sounds like you are close

Thanks Simon. I just found that from my evening session on Wednesday that by the time I'm warmed up etc. I've probably only got time for 1 or 2 decent redpoint attempts before it starts getting dark. Although on the flipside that might be all I need.......

[Barratt]

Mon stanage top, I think!
Tues. can't remember!
Wed. stoney, new sequence on carls walk making it feel possible for first time.
Thurs. beer
Fri. burbage for all of two problem before escaping to works from rain.
Sat. quick session at stoney, feel tired
Sun. nowt, ill... Explains poor effort on sat

[account_inactive]

Mon stanage top, I think!
Tues. can't remember!
Wed. stoney, new sequence on carls walk making it feel possible for first time.
Thurs. beer
Fri. burbage for all of two problem before escaping to works from rain.
Sat. quick session at stoney, feel tired
Sun. nowt, ill... Explains poor effort on sat

I saw you at the wall one day  Secret training 

[heelhookofglory]

M: REST
T: Garage session; repeaters and lock-offs.
W: Working late
T: Bouldering at Churnet. Repeats of Virgin Traverse (mid section) and a few other probs including working left hand VT extension. Felt strong, motivated and confident (rare to feel all three at once).
F: Steady bouldering session at Upper Limits, general movement training.
S: Bouldering at Churnet. Felt good again today and managed a tick of a nemesis project! What did I learn? Be more dynamic and more knowledgable about my abilities.
S: Bouldering at Churnet. Felt tired today and struggled with motivation. Repeats of V1, V2 and a V3 and worked crux section of Ousal Low, new sequence is defo a go-er and it feels closer than ever.

Weight: 142.8 lbs (goal: 140 lbs)

[nai]

Fri. burbage for all of two problem before escaping to works from rain.

I saw you at the wall one day  Secret training 

?

[robertostallioni]

Case closed.

[tomtom]

Rubicon. Tuesday, Friday, Sunday.
Loving it

(Hello to Nigel & Family that I met on friday)

[account_inactive]

Fri. burbage for all of two problem before escaping to works from rain.

I saw you at the wall one day  Secret training 

?

That wasn't Friday

[pyrosis]

STG: Become consistent with non-climbing fitness practices, font 7A+ on two different rock types (one to go)
MTG: Font 7B on two different rock types (one to go)
LTG: Font 7C by the end of the year

M: crappy weather. rest
T: cool day so took advantage of the weather and went to the Sad Boulders. Had a good sess and sent Shizam and Fueled by Hate, 6C each, and Molly Variation 7A. Worked on Pow Pow 7B.
W: work
T: Sads. Hot and greasy. Worked on a 6C and Pow Pow again but everything felt very greasy.
F: Buttermilk. Worked on several 7A's while thunder cracked overhead.
S: Work
S: Work

[Muenchener]

STG: Overhanging pumpy 6b redpoint
MTG: Mittlere Weisse Wand, Konstein.
     Overhanging pumpy 6b onsight
   Alpine multi-pitch in Oberreintal end of June
   250 (proper) practice falls (on rope) in 2011. Current score: 43
LTG: 7a rp; classic big Vs / VIs at local crags (Kaisergebirge, Wetterstein etc.) e.g. West Face Totenkirchl
Place in top half of the field in a local boulder comp (was 62/103 in last week's 3rd round at boulderwelt)

M: yoga
T:  resume training for alpine approach marches: step-up intervals w/heavy rucksack
W: Boulderwelt. Was booked for a group coaching session; postponed due to trainer injured. Did a stamina session instead, trying to flash lots of stuff in the 5C/6A range with not much rest.
T:
F: bouldering: short lunchtime session in office gym. Warm up then aerocap traversing, 20 mins. Warmed down with weights: shoulders, core, reverse wrist curls.
S: yoga
S: Wall, Gilching: family session with kids. Did nothing worth noting myself.
   Vented frustration with alpine approach training: 35 mins step-up with heavy rucksack - am determined to at least *get to* Oberreintal in June.

[nai]

Aims

STG - develop endurance

m -
t - AM - Intervals trying to emulate 4x4 on fingerboard. 4x20 hangs x7s resting 3-4 mins between sets - rest 8 mins - repeat.  Wanted to do more sets but didn't have the time (also repeated use of the same holds was wearing hotspots on skin) PM 350 core + 2 sets planks, 70 pressups
w
t - Two tier, found Blockhead ok but kept making silly errors at the final clip, hadn't memorised the foot sequence properly and despite reworking it after each failed RP had a memory block a little higher each time.
f - tried enduro stuff at the Works but struggled to find the right intensity and didn't quite get pumped enough, still did a lot of moves and got a mild buzz in forearms so it must have been worthwhile at some level. Eve - full core + 3 sets planks.
s
s - Intervals on fingerboard 4x 3mins on (13x7s hangs + 2x17s to emulate clip), 2 mins rest .  5 mins rest between 4th & 5th sets.  Intensity about right, failed final rep of final set.  Eve -  full core + 2xsets planks

[duncan]

STG - Get over shoulder tweak
MTG - Comici on the Cima Grande, E5 os, 7b rp

M - 10 x "V0" at The Arch
T - Shoulder stability exs.
W - 10 x "V0"
T - 10 x "V0-V2"
F -
S - 20 x "V0", 5 x "V2"
S - Shoulder stability exs.

Easing back into it, another 2-3 weeks of this gentle stuff and I should be able to start training again.    Going to the wall regularly for these tiny session requires a certain keenness but it makes for a much faster recovery than just resting.

[Pebblespanker]

STG Font 7a, or as close as I can get to V6/Font 7a, by end 2011 (current best Font 6c+),
MTG English 6c in some shape or form by end 2012
LTG to have functional fingers post 50!

Still very busy at work and having to bring work home in the evenings .  60 hour week this week!!

Mon - Nowt, work
Tue - No wall  as  long day at work  9 til 9 , Core 270
Wed - Nowt as  long day at work and home  9 til 9
Thu - Notts Wall session 2hrs great session 29 probs (inc 3x 5c's) then 4 4x4s best sesh yet but need to target more Overhanging stuff for 4x4s 
Fri -  Core (330) then work till 9pm
Sat - Trad sesh at Birchen with mate, fun day despite the minging weather 9 routes to VS, tried  Monocled Mono but needs more effort, nice mono move though   
Sun - Working again for 5 hrs

[Barratt]

Fri. burbage for all of two problem before escaping to works from rain.

I saw you at the wall one day  Secret training 


?


I present the case of Monday and Tuesday, and my formidable lack of memory!

Surely not guilty 

[chris05]

Goals (2011):

10 x 6C (3 done)
5 x 7A (1 done)
Any 7A+ or ideally a 7B

Injury rehab/prevention:
Stick with elbow/shoulder theraband work
Work on knee and up running mileage again (seen physio, see below)

M: Physio for elbows, swim 38l, theraband & core (500)
T: Theraband & core (500)
W: nothing
T: Physio for knee
F: nothing
S: nothing
S: Bouldering at Notts wall, run gentle 3m & core (500)

Bit of a rest week, think too much climbing in past couple of weeks had aggravated my elbows again, physio couldn't really say what was wrong but agreed with addressing shoulder, rotator cuff and scapula to see if it helps. Knee problem is apparently patellar tendonitis so more exercises to do for that and a slow return to running.

On a positive note, I climbed well for me at the wall yesterday with some good flashes.

[fried]

Monday - indoor session, tired and a bit sore.
Tuesday - work
Wednesday - nothing
Thursday - Physio session, right shoulder much better, but unfortunately I've strained the muscle behind my left bicep.
Friday - Upper arm massage.
Saturday - Day out with family at Beauvais telegraph. Mainly followed the nephew around but did some yellow/ orange stuff with the brother-in-law when we could get a spare moment.
Sunday - nowt/ massage

Weight 74.8kg

[shark]

Thanks Luthor

11.6-8

M.
T. AM 2 goes at Crucifixion. Bigger links than Sunday. Eve Bouldering in Shed and put on holds for a Rumble type jump problem.
W.Eve. Shed 20 mins practicing Rumble jump.
T. Eve. WCJ Cornice. Bouldering at Rubicon including dyno practice. 3 goes on Rumble. Still struggling to grab jug although reaching it fairly consistently. Very frustrating and still miles off linking the moves to get to the jump.
F. Eve. Fine wine guzzling
S.   
S. AM. Tor. Chilly and rainy but good conditions. Warm up dogging up Tin Of and to set up TR for boys. One decent redpoint on Crucifixion to where it departs from the second pitch of the Prow but tired on second go so dogged it to retrieve QDs. PM Power nap and experimented with anti-hydral. Late Eve Bouldering session in shed
 

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals: As always....

M: Nowt
T: 4x4's @ The Castle - Good session but grades are all over the place... 6b+'s that veered from around 6a+ to around 6c+!!!!
W: PE circuits @ The Castle - Got there early and had a good session. AeroCap to finish... Destroyed arms and really sore skin!
T: Rest (drive to Cornwall)
F: Ansteys - Good session on Empire of the Sun, hoped to get it in the session but a mixture of tiredness (weakness?) and sore skin put pay to that idea... Had 4 good goes though making big links (ground to pocket - pocket to easy ground - crux to last move before easy ground (redpoint crux perhaps)..) but really wasted time and energy trying to work out a more efficient sequence for the moves before the pocket (the crux for me). This route highlighted that I really need to work on my power as I felt fine (to a degree;-) on longer steeper sections but my body's just not used to turning on the power. 
S: At a Wedding
S: Recovering........

Not a bad week considering I was working in London all week and at a wedding on the weekend... Really wanted to get out on Sunday but family comittments and a fuzzy head curtailed that... Better make up for it this week!

This week: Try and fit in all my training and not drink too much on this weekends stag do (bloody weddings keep getting in the way of training!;-)...  Start pre Spain diet!

:D

[shark]

t - Two tier, found Blockhead ok but kept making silly errors at the final clip, hadn't memorised the foot sequence properly and despite reworking it after each failed RP had a memory block a little higher each time.

Try writing moves ie all foot and hand moves plus clips and any body position/momentum type beta. Read thru it several times until you can mentally rehearse without looking at it. Also if there any moves that you are hazy about when writing the moves down then its usually an indication that you need to re-work that section.

[Duncan Disorderly]

t - Two tier, found Blockhead ok but kept making silly errors at the final clip, hadn't memorised the foot sequence properly and despite reworking it after each failed RP had a memory block a little higher each time.

I did this too a couple of times until my friend suggested I clip from the good hold you're going for rather than from below, it does mean you take a bit of a lob if you blow the move but I found that I could focus on the move and save a bit of energy... Did it first go after getting this advice..  Good route...

:D

[andybfreeman]

STG - injury rehab and return to training proper. Elbow improving with eccentric curls and stretching but finger seems to be getting worse  must remember to ice/coldwater every day
MTG - 7C and 8a -  hopefully before the end of September but that is feeling ever more optimistic given current injuries

M - Light(ish) session at home to shake off the cobwebs from a week of inactivity. Bolton complexes + a new PB of 25 pull ups + lots of leg raises (after identifying a weakness in font!).
Tu - TCA. Did all but one of the new blues and tried a couple of yellows. Skin took a bit a a trashing but finished on a high by getting all the moves on a 7B (questionable!) on the mothership, just need to link!
W - Rest
Th - finger still feels tweaky from Tuesday so opted for weights and core at home
F - rest
Sa - TCA session - did the rest of the new blue problems and worked a couple of yellows but with limited success. Didn't warm up up very well and had a flash pump that I just couldn't shake!
Su - lazy day at home

Weight up to average of 68.4kg for the week

[cheque]

STG: E1 on big cliffs this summer.
MTG:  E2, 7a and 7A before end of 2011.
LTG: Onsighting long E4s before my planned 2013 USA trip.

M- Rest.
T- Shining Cliff. Good trad session.
W- Must be fitter than ever as I can do burly routes on a weeknight without feeling too bad the next day.
T- Beastmaker repeaters. Close to a full set of back 3's now. Front 3's feel easy.
F- Nothing. Late night.
S- Rest. Lie-in. Food.
S- Wharncliffe. Fun doing bold trad routes. Turns out Wharncliffe is twice as big as I thought and has a fair bit of bouldering.

A fun week doing trad and a bit of training. Still gradually improving, which is cool with me!

[205Chris]

t - Two tier, found Blockhead ok but kept making silly errors at the final clip, hadn't memorised the foot sequence properly and despite reworking it after each failed RP had a memory block a little higher each time.

I did this too a couple of times until my friend suggested I clip from the good hold you're going for rather than from below, it does mean you take a bit of a lob if you blow the move but I found that I could focus on the move and save a bit of energy... Did it first go after getting this advice..  Good route...

:D

Me too!! I remember extending the last draw so I could clip it from a lower position. I notice it's gone up to 7b+ in the recent developments guide - felt nails for 7b.

Shark's advice about beta is sound too and I also found this useful redpointing advice:

[nai]

Cheers for the tips guys, I had extended the sling and am happy clipping after making the move off the undercut for the dishy pockety thing.  It's the subsequent foot moves to enable the reach for the diagonal sharp crimp that I fluffed.  I'm confident it'll go next time with a bit of care, busting to get back there but haven't managed to track anyine down for Thu/Fri yet.

And re the grade, with the exception of one guy of 6'5" everyone I know has said 7b+.  Haven't really done enough at the grades to know myself but happy to take it.

[webbo]

Mon. Nothing.
Tue.Rockcity repeated stuff.
Wed. nothing.
Thu.Rockcity short session as planning to go out tomorrow.Repeated a few things then gave myself 5 goes on a v6 I'd not done got it on 3rd go managing to improvise a way through some lank moves.
Fri.Drove to Almscliff pissed down.Leeds wall repeated most of the stuff I did last time.Did a v5 I couldn't do last time.Also managed a hard v6 red for my 35th problem.Having watched someone do it.
Sat. Weights.Bike 1hr 40 mins.
Sun. Bike 2 hrs 20 mins.