[205Chris]

I'm currently involved in a redpoint project that's the next grade up from what I've done before. After two sessions I've managed to work all the moves and climb the route in two halves (up to the crux and from the crux to the top). The question is, what next?

a. Start redpointing?
b. Start working it in overlapping halves?
c. Keep working the crux until it feels piss?
d. Leave it, train for a few weeks then go back?

While I'm keen to get the route done I'd like to avoid getting involved in an all season epic or end up becoming demoralised.

Any tips from the hardcore redpointers out there?

[Nigel]

I'm not an expert by any means, but I would have another session working it, with the aim to do a 3/4 ish link to the top, i.e from below the crux, through it, to finish. If this feels OK then you have the confidence boost that you only have to link a few moves into what you've already done. Plus you have experience of doing the top when tired. Also, another session looking for tweaks to your sequence can make all the difference - whether to skip clips, do a move static or slap, when to move fast when to move slow, that sort of thing. This can be done while warming up, going bolt to bolt.

[Adam Lincoln]

What Nige said.

Generally on stuff just below my limit, ill do all the moves. Then work in two or three sections. Then ill have a redpoint go. If i do it, all good, but if not, ill try and do it in two over lapping sections. Also refining moves. Then maybe from below crux to top. Another redpoint then, and so on.

If you top rope the route clean at any point, you have worked it too much. I always think that the first time you link a route in full, it should be on lead as a redpoint. Obviously you get people who are scared of falling and work stuff too much, but generally, first proper link should be a redpoint go.

[shark]

Hi Chris

Glad you are doing well on Powerplant. Climbing it in two halves (up to the crux and from the crux to the top) could be quite far from the redpoint or quite close. Nigel and Adam's advice is sound. Next session I would aim for a dogging go to scrutinse the moves and clips a bit more and to warm up. Then go for 'phoney' redpoint attempts to get as high as you can - take a short rest and lead from a bit lower than the point you fell off to the top. Its important to be at least as familar with top section as the bottom and the danger is that if you lower off after each redpoint you become proportionately less familiar with the top section each time. I kept falling off on the  stretch on the wall above the crux for days. Good luck.

[205Chris]

Thanks for the advice all, I've now got a plan for next time I'm on it.

As most of my previous redpoints were done fairly quickly I think I made the mistake of thinking that once I could do all the moves the redpoint would be on but in hindsight I think I've got a bit more work to do yet.