[shark]

Thanks shark

11.6-7 (11.9 this morning but after BBQ binging on Sat)

M. Malham trying Oak
T.
W.
T. Eve. WCJ Cornice. Re-opened account with Rumble. 3 good goes but struggling to grab jug on jump
F. Eve. WCJ Cornice. 2 goes working Rumble. Ripped a chunk out of my finger slipping off jug. Had a burn on Brachiation falling on last move.
S. BBQ 
S. AM. Tor with boys. They did ok on start of Sardine then spent rest of time finding where Wally was. One good working go on Crucifixion but tired on second go
 
4 days on bolted limestone  . Made a strategic decision to lay off the Oak due to drive,conditions, lack of partners and strength. Going to alternate between two Peak projects - Rumble (Power) and Crucifixion (Stamina). Intend to keep getting out on rock as much as pos.

Really struggling on Rumble jump. Did it once but think rope drag helped. Touch the hold most times but dont seem to be able to have the reflex to grab it for some reason. Going to tape up next time as took a chunk out. Any other tips for holding jugs on dynos ? 

[tommytwotone]

STG: tick the Cliff up to 6c+
LTG: Font 7b

Slightly better week, shoulder felt better so have climbed on it.

M - Nowt
T - Swastika Stones after work - nice and easy, did a few things but really tried not to push it too hard
W - 10k run on lunch, Pilates class (first one) eve - latter surprisingly hard work
T - Nowt
F - Few beers after work
S - Harrogate wall session for easy sport, ended up flashing a 6c and a 7a - best ever sport onsight
S - Light training session on board, still felt OK

Progress of sorts, taking it very gingerly on the shoulder but seems to be holding up OK. Indoor performance on Sat was a bit of a surprise, but the routes did suit my style so perhaps I just got lucky.

[Luthor]

TG  - Get out and climb; Stay psyched; train well, not get injured...
MTG  - F7c Sport route in 2011. Add to the fairly small list of font 7b bouldering ticks.
LTG  - font 7c & F8a

Mon     - busy
Tue     - Worked Sardine on top rope at the Tor.
Wed     - Attempted to boulder at Stanage but tired so didn't do much.
Thurs   - lunchtime circuits session at the Works
Fri     - nothing
Sat     - bouldering and circuits at the Works
Sun     - quick bouldering session at the Matrix

[205Chris]

STG: Sport 8a. Various 7b / 7cs in Peak & Yorkshire.

M:
T: Back from Spain (details in last week's post).
W: Nada
T: Drove out to Cheedale to meet Duncan Disorderly for some onsighting practice. It rained. Went to the Edge instead and had my best indoor session in a while. 6c+/7a/7a/7b all flashed (mainly thanks to watching DD for the beta....... )
F: Nada
S: Cheedale Cornice. Went to have a look at how likely Powerplant will be as a first 8a. Quickly sorted a sequence for the lower wall and the headwall. Tried various methods on the crux and finally sorted a sequence thanks to some beta from Sam Whittaker. Keen to get on the redpoint of this as soon as possible.
S: Run round Burbage valley.

Feel like I'm on a high after Spain. Had one session on Powerplant last year and couldn't touch it so please to get all the moves sorted in a session. Time for the redpoint, while I'm expecting a fight I hope it doesn't turn into an all season epic!!

@Shark - Assuming I get Powerplant out of the way before too long if you ever need a belay at the WCJ cornice let me know as I'm keen to look at Free Monster.

[Barratt]

Mon     - nothing I can remember 
Tue     - bouldering at curbar, dam hot, tick extend warfare
Wed     - boulder at stanage  top, couple new ticks but otherwise a great circuit
Thur.  - pub
Fri     - London with work, pub
Sat     - good session at matrix
Sun     - tired session at the Matrix

[Tommy]

Really struggling on Rumble jump. Did it once but think rope drag helped. Touch the hold most times but dont seem to be able to have the reflex to grab it for some reason. Going to tape up next time as took a chunk out. Any other tips for holding jugs on dynos ?

I'm crap at dynos so when I did Rumble I went down to Rubicon to that traverse bit to warm up. After doing some juggy stuff I'd make up a load of random boulder problem dynos to be as similar to the one on Jungle as possible, that way my confidence was high, my eye was in and my shoulders properly warmed up! Really worked for me anyway.

[pyrosis]

STG: (this spring) become consistent with non-climbing fitness practices: stretching, running, prehabilitation, antagonist exercise. font 7A on both granite and tuff. Quit tobacco
MTG: (this summer): font 7A+ on at least two rock types
LTG (this year): font 7B on at least two rock types


The best week of my bouldering career, hands down.

M: Sent: Seven Spanish Angels 7A (granite). The Orgasm, 7A (tuff).
T: Buttermilk: Sent: Lululator 6B, Bowling Pin 6B, Bowling Pin Sit 7A. Worked on unnamed hard 7A, Lululator sit 7B
W: rest
T: Buttermilk: Sent unnamed 6C, Milk The Milks 7A, Yayoi Right 7A+!! YYFY.. Worked on unnamed hard 7A
F: Rock Creek for some slick techy granite: Sent Choice of Weapons 6B, Pull Down Like De Jesus 6B, Osama 7A, unnamed 7A. Worked on Boy Named Sue 7A+, which will be my next project, and Clearcut 7A+ which felt quite hard.
S: rest
S: rest

Holy shit.

Before this week I had only two 7A's for the year. I feel that I have broken through a plateau, that I am bouldering stronger than ever. I look forward to the coming week when I will also be able to get out for four more good sessions. Very very psyched.

[Pebblespanker]

STG Font 7a, or as close as I can get to V6/Font 7a, by end 2011 (current best Font 6c+),
MTG English 6c in some shape or form by end 2012
LTG to have functional fingers post 50!

Still very busy at work and having to bring work home in the evenings . 

Mon - Nowt
Tue - Nowt as tired from flight home and long day at work 
Wed - work
Thu - Fingerboard session
Fri - mates for a social 
Sat - Wall session 2hrs with my 6 year old god-daughter, her brother and their dad, good laugh but not too productive around 16 problems plus worked a couple of harder ones, 6 year old god-daughter looks a natural - she has better footwork than me!   
Sun - Wall session 3.5hrs , 29 probs plus 4 4x4's felt beasted afterwards  need more sessions like this one!

[chris05]

Decided to be a bit more specific (and probably overly ambitious) with Goals for 2011:

10 x 6C/6C+ (3 done)
5 x 7A (1 done)
Any 7A+ or ideally a 7B

Injury rehab/prevention:
Stick with elbow/shoulder theraband work
Work on knee and up running mileage again (physio app. booked)

M: Churnet bouldering, should get Duck Billed Platypus soon (just that initial throw to catch)
T: Theraband & core (500)
W: 3xDB complex, BM pull-ups and max hangs, core (500) & theraband
T: Theraband & core (500)
F: rest
S: bouldering at Notts wall, great session
S: bouldering at Notts wall, rubbish session due to elbows being really painful again

Fairly good week, feel like I am climbing well. Need to avoid climbing two days in a row for now, which seems to really aggravate my elbows.

[nai]

Aims

m - curbar boulderisation (didn't have time to get to lime), did Art of Japan (V4) which felt harder than Cloud Cuckoo Land (V7)?  Left with sore skin wondering if climbing on grit in this weather is worth the subsequent downtime and vowing to build a board, would probably have been better off doing circuits at the wall or something.
t - sore back from porting pads in a crosswind
w ditto
t - some kind of enduro session - 3x10min circuits, about 100 moves each, 5 mins rest.
f - Chee Dale, RP'd 7b.  Tried a 7a OS - EPIC FAIL, didn't bother with RP as I didn't enjoy the route.
s
s core, pressups & on-the-minute deadhangs.  Started at 15s.  Failure first time dropped below managing 10s on 18th rep.

New new STG for the next month or so is just to work on endurance having known it to be my weakest point but having failed to do anything about it all winter I'm now feeling very frustrated at my inabilty to hold on for more than 6 moves at a time and wondering if I've blown my season goals already.  But it is only May, hopefully there's time yet.  And taking on the assistance of a coach has probably come one step closer.

[duncan]

STG: os E5
MTG: Comici this summer
MTG: rp F7b


M - 8km walk/jog
T - nothing
W - very gentle shoulder stability stuff
T -  very gentle shoulder stability stuff; 5km walk/jog
F - nothing
S - very gentle session at The Arch -  6 or 7 "V0s" (~UK4a in truth)
S - shoulder sore

Not sure if this is a days, weeks, or months to recover job as yet.

Feels like it'll be about 4-6 weeks before I'll be training rather than rehab.ing.  Could be worse but STG of E5 before June has probably gone.  Plan B: Comici in late July and E5 after this.  More soft-E5 options post bird-ban too...

[nik at work]

Any other tips for holding jugs on dynos ?

Dynos tend to feel easy when you do them, so it is possible to fall into the trap of doing it once and thinking "that's easy, lets do this thing". When you'd actually be better spending a bit more time working the move so it is really dialed in.
Another thing is people often overjump dynos, they try too hard to get distance and don't concentrate on good form and efficient body positioning. You're not trying to break high jump records when dyno-ing, instead you're trying to reach the hold you're going for moving as slowly (gently?) as possible in as mechanically beneficial direction as possible. You may think the hold is a big jug (I know nothing about the route so can't comment) but if it is sharply positive then it will be difficult (and potentially damaging) to stick, the slower you're moving when you latch it the better. Without knowing a bit more about the move in question it's hard to give any more specific thoughts, but Tommy's suggestion of practicing similar moves is good. The ideal would be to practice "the move" a lot, but if that's ripping your hand to pieces better getting your eye in elsewhere then rinsing when you're firing on all cylinders.

That'll be £54.87 plus your VAT less your discount

[andybfreeman]

STG complete rehab on finger and font niggles, get back to proper training then return to font to resolve unfinished business
MTG (before I go to oz so by the end of spetember) - 7C and 8a

Monday through Sunday = total rest!

Weight trending upwards to a slightly dismaying 68.9 kg this morning. But i did eat/drink plenty this weekend, the highlight of which was a bottle of 2005 Leuwin Estates Art series cab sauv which was stunningly good!

[shark]

Really struggling on Rumble jump. Did it once but think rope drag helped. Touch the hold most times but dont seem to be able to have the reflex to grab it for some reason. Going to tape up next time as took a chunk out. Any other tips for holding jugs on dynos ?

I'm crap at dynos so when I did Rumble I went down to Rubicon to that traverse bit to warm up. After doing some juggy stuff I'd make up a load of random boulder problem dynos to be as similar to the one on Jungle as possible, that way my confidence was high, my eye was in and my shoulders properly warmed up! Really worked for me anyway.

  Thanks for the reminder - that's what I was doing a couple of year's ago when last trying it. Keith Sharples did that too - there is an ace replica of the move in the 3 traverses area.

Any other tips for holding jugs on dynos ?

Dynos tend to feel easy when you do them, so it is possible to fall into the trap of doing it once and thinking "that's easy, lets do this thing". When you'd actually be better spending a bit more time working the move so it is really dialed in.
Another thing is people often overjump dynos, they try too hard to get distance and don't concentrate on good form and efficient body positioning. You're not trying to break high jump records when dyno-ing, instead you're trying to reach the hold you're going for moving as slowly (gently?) as possible in as mechanically beneficial direction as possible. You may think the hold is a big jug (I know nothing about the route so can't comment) but if it is sharply positive then it will be difficult (and potentially damaging) to stick, the slower you're moving when you latch it the better. Without knowing a bit more about the move in question it's hard to give any more specific thoughts, but Tommy's suggestion of practicing similar moves is good. The ideal would be to practice "the move" a lot, but if that's ripping your hand to pieces better getting your eye in elsewhere then rinsing when you're firing on all cylinders.

That'll be £54.87 plus your VAT less your discount

Yes I did try to slow it down but I couldnt make it work and work out the angle of flight / point of balance / reducing swing etc. The problem with dynos is thay happen so fast that you cant deconstruct what went wrong and right. The dyno is mainly off your legs in a 'frog' position with poor handholds in a break and across a roof. It looks ridiculoulsly far and intimidating when you try it and I cant seem to keep my training hand on so I am literally on one arm (the right) when getting it. I'll try and get some video of it next time. The hold is good and has a sharp lip and would benefit from comfortising

Cheque's in the post made payable to Lagerstarfish enterprises.
 

[Big Dave]

Mon - Hobson Moor bouldering
Tue - rest
Wed - Gym
Thu - rest
Fri - rest
Sat - Awesome walls Stockport bouldering (and sauna!)
Sun - Gym

[fried]

Monday - Nowt

Tuesday - Missus accidentally locks me in the flat. Unfortunately by the time she lets me out it's too late to go to work.....but perfect for an afternoon indoor session. Nobody there and I climb a lot of easy stuff, start trying some more overhanging problems (which I've left alone since I've been in physio), generally a pretty good afternoon. I've asked to be locked in more often.

Wednesday - shoulder stuff
Thursday - Physio session
Friday - nothing

Saturday - Due to technical car problems I decide to head to Rocher Canon by train. I remember at the last moment that my mat is in the car which is at a garage somewhere, so mat-less climbing for me. As result I spend most of the day backing off problem though do manage a couple of sky blue problems (which were probably over-graded). No real suprise as I always climb like shit there. The temperature is about 28°c and I run out of water/ feet start to hurt pretty quickly.

Sunday - cook a shoulder of lamb, then eat it.

Shoulder/elbow is defineltly improving and I can do 2/3 sessions a week without too many problems.

Weight 75.7kg

[webbo]

Mon.Weights
Tue.Almscliff played around trying various things without getting up much.
Wed.Nothing.
Thu.Rockcity reasonable session did 3 problems I couldn't do last week.
Fri. Nothing.
Sat. Leeds wall on way to visit my mother.Pretty good session,did a couple of reds and flashed all the greens despite it being hot and humid.
Sun. Weights.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals: Same

M: Beastmaker - Penultimate session before PE work starts for Spain... Best session ever!! YYFY!
T: 4x4's @ The Edge - Managed to break my training partner on the first set... Finished doing the 4x4's on the 20 degree board.
W: Rest
T: Drove out to Cheedale to meet 205Chris for some onsighting practice. It rained. Went to the Edge instead and had my worst indoor session in a while. 6c+ OS /7a Lob off last move/7a Lob off last move/7b Lob off last move (did my civic duty giving Chris good beta tho....... )
F: Chill
S: Beastmaker AM - Was Shit! AeroCap PM - Wasn't quite so shit.
S: AM. Tried to drive to Kilnsey......Firstly I run into the sheff half marathon. Fine! I'll follow the diversion to get to the M1. Oh! there's a shedload of traffic and the diversion signs run out, oh ok! I know the way out of the city, oh! the marathon goes there too. Ok! fine I'l...l go to junction 33, bit of a detour but fine, oh running low on fuel better stop for petrol, no problem. Right! back onto the parkway what do you mean the junctions closed? You mean I have to drive back into sheff get stuck in marathon traffic again and end up pretty much back where I started at over an hour beforehand? Bastards!! Talk about conspiring against me going to Kilnsey! Sacked it off, went home, sat on sofa until I calmed down.
PM. Went to Burbage South did the usual circuit and some PE work on the Armoured Car traverse (4 sets of there and back twice [so the whole traverse 4 times] with 4 minutes rest) battered!

A good training week... Did lots, failed on lots....

This week: try and maintain the same level of intensity while driving around the country.. Try and find someone in the SW keen to get on Empire on Friday!

:D

[shark]

S: AM. Tried to drive to Kilnsey......Firstly I run into the sheff half marathon. Fine! I'll follow the diversion to get to the M1. Oh! there's a shedload of traffic and the diversion signs run out, oh ok! I know the way out of the city, oh! the marathon goes there too. Ok! fine I'l...l go to junction 33, bit of a detour but fine, oh running low on fuel better stop for petrol, no problem. Right! back onto the parkway what do you mean the junctions closed? You mean I have to drive back into sheff get stuck in marathon traffic again and end up pretty much back where I started at over an hour beforehand? Bastards!! Talk about conspiring against me going to Kilnsey! Sacked it off, went home, sat on sofa until I calmed down.

Bet you wished you'd come to the Tor now 

[cheque]

STG: E1 on big cliffs this summer.
MTG:  E2, 7a and 7A before end of 2011.
LTG: Onsighting long E4s before my planned 2013 USA trip.

M- Last day of Lakes trip. Bouldering on Badger Rock. Nothing hard due to fatigue and oppressive wind.
T- Nothing. Work at 8AM. Ouch.
W- Nothing. Knackered
T- Nothing. Still knackered. Not elped by staying up til early hours.
F- Nothing.
S- Only available partners for the weekend can only do today and want to meet at 10:30 in the Peak. Goodbye lie-in plans! They turn up two hours late, by which time it's raining.  Walk up Kinder.
S- So tired. Nothing.

A crap week, even by my standards- spent most of the week eating chocolate and feeling sorry for myself. I won't get any better this summer unless I put effort into recovering properly from trips.

[Muenchener]

STG: Boulder comp at weekend: 275 points, place in middle third of field. Scored: 300
   Overhanging pumpy 6b redpoint
MTG: Mittlere Weisse Wand, Konstein.
     Overhanging pumpy 6b onsight
   Some decent Alpine multi-pitch in the summer
   250 (proper) practice falls (on rope) in 2011. Current score: 43
LTG: 7a rp; classic big Vs / VIs at local crags (Kaisergebirge, Wetterstein etc.) e.g. West Face Totenkirchl

M: (back at work, near-fatal hayfever)
T:  Office gym: goblet sqats, shoulders, core, reverse wrist curls
W: Wall, Thalkirchen. 7x7: attempted seven routes in the UIAA VII range (6a+ to 6b+). Got up two 6a+'s and nearly flashed an overhanging 6b. Big confidence boost from getting on real rock; previously even attempting a single VII at the wall was a big deal for me.
T:
F: yoga
S: Boulderwelt comp 3rd round. Target score:275, actual score: 300. yyfy
S:

[aly]

Right, I'm getting back into this after missing about 3 weeks due to easter holidays and being in the alps, and then on a SW road trip, both of which were successful but didn't give me much time to enter my training diary on here.  Apologies for going AWOL but I'm now back into work and training mode so more improvements start here:

Mon: Short walk up Dovedale and Fingerboard session
Tues: Fingerboard repeaters session, 7s/3s for x6/x5/x4.  6 grip types, felt like I haven't lost too much strength.
Weds: Wall session, some easy routes and a fairly short bouldering session but feeling reasonably strong considering it was my first wall session in the best part of a month.
Thurs: nothing
Fri: nothing, drive up north
Sat: Couple of short walks in the cairngorms
Sun: Walk up into the Norther Corries and skiied a line in Coire an t'Sneachda.  Stoked to get a last ski descent in but better weather would have been nice.

This week: get some more CV exercise done, and get back into some specific climbing training.  Get at least a board session or a campus session in and get onto real rock at the weekend.

[heelhookofglory]

---------------------------
GOALS - above all else have fun and remain injury free
---------------------------

STG / FOCUS (in order of priority):
Ousal Low trav, Churnet.
Strength endurance, core, finger strength and posture correction improvements - Week 2/4 (4 sessions per wk).
Complete L1 trad pyramid on lead (Diff 2/8, VDiff 1/4, HVD 3/2, S 0/1)

MTG:
Lead 100 Staffs Grit routes up to HVS (6 DONE)
Redpoint in under 5 attempts ~20 - 30m F7a sport (outside)

---------------------------
THIS WEEK IN NUMBERS
---------------------------

M: REST
T: Garage session; repeaters and lock-offs.
W: MTB 18km ride.
T: MTB 18km ride.
F: Session on Ousal Low, found new sequence which works for me. Strength endurance, movement training and 2 sets of 3-finger repeaters at Upper Limits afterwards.
S: REST
S: MTB 15km ride. Garage session; repeaters and lock-offs. Bouldering at Ina's Rock (only short session).

Weight: 143.0 lbs (goal: 140 lbs)