[andy popp]

Try to climb this week I realized by 'good' shoes (old pink Anasazis) are in fact shagged - but also that I haven't a clue about modern shoes. Climbing in Cheshire I do a lot of vertical wall climbing and need good edging shoes. Hope to climb some Clwyd limestone too this summer and have a project that demands some heel/toe action. What should I buy?

[Drew]

I know quite a few people with the Miura VS, and they seem very happy with the power they can get on tiny holds. Plus the heel is good and tight, but doesn't cripple the Achilles like the Anasazi V2 (Blanco).

[cofe]

The whites are closest I've found to pinks, though they're more aggressive at back. I think they're probably a better shoe than pink now.

[shark]

Despite the eye-watering cost the Whites are the boots to go for. Recently I've bought different models thinking I've discovered a cheaper alternative but its false economy as I end up never using them cos I keep going back to the Whites. Greens are as good if you're not so bothered about brilliant edging but they are the same price as the whites and old whites that have lost the toe stiffness feel pretty similar to the greens anyway.

[tomtom]

I refer to the statement by Dan Varian about Anasazi velcro's.....

(but I dont do much edging.... and have some Dragons for the whitestuff - and when I need a heel)

[Paul B]

I'd say go for the whites (out of the 5.10 range), they're fantastic edging shoes. They became my boot of choice on everything but the steepest of limestone where Dragons come into their own and I literally went from not being able to do the crux of a route to comfortable hanging it, all through a 2min shoe change!

[iain]

If you've not tried anything apart from pink's since they came out it might be worth at least trying on some other makes. They were the best at the time but there's some good shoes out there now. I personally can edge better in some La Sportiva and Scarpa makes than I ever could in the pinks. I don't understand why, I just can.
Miura VS (and lace, can Ondra be wrong  ), Scarpa Instinct and Vapour are all worth looking at, although my personal favourites are Testarossa's which you can't get in the uk any more.

I will confess to having a pair of anasazi velcros for when nothing but slabby friction will do though.

[boulderingbacon]

i also need a recommendation for an edging shoe. i climb almost all the time in my solutions because they fit so well but finding on very minimal edges they give out, plus there fairly worn. im quite heavy so some stiff shoe suggestions would be welcome, would whites be stiff enough for a heavish climber. i also have a high arch. cheers.

[moose]

Muiras are brilliant stiff edging shoes - although as I mainly play on slopey grit mine get little use.  Katanas are nearly as good for edging and a little less aggressive (though I still find them slightly stiff for low-angle smearing). 

Re 5.10s - in my experience you don't always get to select a model - rather they choose you! Personally I find Anasazi VCSs to be the best all-around shoes around.  Once worn in they somehow manage to be both very precise, good edgers, yet brilliant for smearing.  Verdes are less precise and not so good for edging - rather suited to smeary stuff straight from the box  - more of a trad grit shoe (although the laces mean that, if uncertain about the right size to get, you can compensate better than with velcros).  From what I've heard Blancos are a limestone shoe (more of a Katana / Muira analogue than VCSs or Verdes) but they only suit people with narrow feet.  I can't get my feet into them - even if I go up a few sizes.

[Ru]

5.10 Anasazi Velcros. The desert island shoe. You can climb anything in them.

[Ru]

You can climb anything in them.

I realise that this isn't strictly true.

[andy popp]

You can climb anything in them.

I realise that this isn't strictly true.

Dangnambit.

[Ru]

Dangnambit.

But you're more likely to be able to climb anything in them than in any other shoe. That might be true. Except snow. They're shit on snow.

[Johnny Brown]

And palm trees. Worth thinking about for the desert island.

[lagerstarfish]

I don't know whether your gout has gone for good Andy, but I've been experimenting with getting reasonable performance out of shoes that are more gout/arthritis compatible.

Might left big toe gets unprovoked gout attacks, while the right big toe has less serious gouty episodes that can be induced by rock shoe pain (maybe not gout?). Bigger shoes mean more climbing for me.

Anasazi Velcros work surprisingly well as a comfy shoe (except on pebbles). I'm wearing size 47 now, but previously wore 45 or smaller. I suspect that the stiffer 5.10s would work in a similar way when worn large, but better on pebbles.

I have been using a big pair of Miura lace ups on lime which have been kind on my big toes and perform like my tight Boosters. The shape of the Miura (when worn big) shoves the foot (big toe and ball of foot - the useful bit) up against the inside edge of the shoe, rather than just pushing it towards the point. The laces help to optimise this effect. Amusingly this causes some discomfort in my little toe.

Both the Anasazi Velcro and the Miura lace up are kind on my toes when landing. I have realised that the fear of toe pain when landing was stopping me from trying harder when more than a few feet off the ground. A lot of higher problems have now become more appealing.

Disclaimer: I don't climb very hard

Also, having big feet means that anything I wear large will be in a size that doesn't sell, so get sold off cheap. I'm not sure I could risk big money on a shoe that might not do what it says on the tin.

[andy popp]

Cheers everyone,

Good point Lagers, I've not really had another attack but sometimes get an ache at the base of my left big toe, normally after climbing not surprisingly.

Haven't had pain jumping off; mainly because my buggered knee means I daren't really fall off, which is holding me back in the same way.

Looks like Miuras or Anasazis are the way forward.

Disclaimer: I don't climb hard either.

[RichK]

Another vote for Muira velcro Andy, they're great all rounders.

New I use them for sport, worn in Trad & knackered for wall.

I suffered with 5.10 for years  ...Muira's are so comfortable and have more than adequate downturn/toe power. Ask Pete, he's a long time Muira wearer.

May try & get to Harmers tomoz eve. Tour?

[mrjonathanr]

Careful Andy: you've got to wear socks with them.   

[Oldmanmatt]

Anasazis. Just onto my second pair of velcros. I have a long, narrow foot with a buggered right big toe (frost bite). I'm wearing them at street shoe size (see toe comment) with a thin (very thin) sock/liner. Still seem to be able to manage F7a / F7b (as before). They seem to be fine on Granite and Sanstone (haven't made it to the Lime yet this year, hoping to hit Llieda this weekend, weather permitting). Wore out the first pair in 6 months though, they have been consigned to "Wall only" status, lost allot of their rigidity but didn't have much problem with streching. Excess velcro? Yep! tonnes of it, never seems to be a problem, thought about geting the sewing machine out and shortening but never bothered. They appear to do the biz and yet are comfortable. Had my first pair of rock shoes/boots 24 years ago (B4's for the other old Knackers out there), first time I ever had a pair that I forget to take off during rests! (I used to have to take off the B4's between pitches)! Price isn't too bad either..........ish.....

[SA Chris]

Croft B4s? My first ever climbing shoe, bought back in 1989. In hindsight the were terrible, but served me well.

[mrjonathanr]

I see your B4s and raise you:

[Oldmanmatt]

Ohh! I remember them! W'en oi wer' ah lad (10-12ish) n' I wer' climbin doon ahn Bosygran in m' "Blacks" hikin boots.
Learned to Climb with Ron Heart and Don (?), from Tintagle. It was all army surplus and occasionally black school plymsols (for the really hard stuff), Ron turned up with a pair of those and everyone on the crag took the piss something cronic! "Oooh! We've got a ballet dancer here today lads...." Funny though, a few months later they were all wearing them.... and I was saving my pocket money for a pair (Took me so long the B4 was THE boot by the time I could afford them(50p a week)).
Right, now I feel really bloody old...........

[Oldmanmatt]

Is this helping Andy?????

[stefObb]

Miura, wether the lace-up or the VS, you won't regret your decision