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training for a climbing competition (Read 4365 times)

jamesgreenfield

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training for a climbing competition
May 04, 2011, 10:37:23 pm
Hi, I have recently got back into climbing after a 2 month break. I have a competition running over 2 days coming up on the 13th and 14 May. I went bouldering for the first time in a while on Monday at a sandstone bridge then again today. I did some fingerboard work as well and some core work. What should I be doing from now till the competition in order to perform my best? I'm prepared to work hard in this interim time to try and so well. Thanks, James Greenfield

Tommy

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Few questions:

What comp? Boulder/routes? Onsight/flash format?
How long have you been climbing in total?
What have you done mainly in the last 2 years?
How old are you?
What training facilities do you have and how often?
What sort of grades do you climbing onsight and worked?


jamesgreenfield

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it's a bouldering comp, 25 problems, with 10 points for a flash, 7 for second go, 4 for third, 1 for 4 or more. I started climbing when I was 14 or 15 but had a break for 4 or 5 years from 19 to 24. I've been climbing quite a bit the last two years. My best bouldering grade achieved was a font 6c in font, but I'm not quite as strong now. On sight I'd say I could onsight v4s and some v5s in the gym at the moment, outside significantly less, v1's possibly v2's and the odd v3.  I'm 26, I use a sandstone bridge to train at the moment as I'm quite skint. I train every other day.

Dexter

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the biggest thing I found with comps was that I was pumped after three problems and then just knackered for the entire rest of the time. My suggestions are
1) Go to an indoor wall and pick a series of varying style increasing difficulty problems and try as hard as you can to flash them all (as if youre in a comp)
2) Do some routes at some point/ so power endurance/endurance
3) Climb a variety of different styles since you never know what will come up in a comp for example I never used to train crimps and used to love slopers then went to a comp and got spanked as my crimp strength was appaling
4) just keep climbing lots it seems you have the drive to keep at it so just stick with it

Also if your first comp goes really bad dont be disheartened they take a bit of getting used to

SA Chris

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Spend as much time on the plastic as you can between now and then, working on trying to get problems done with the minimum faff possible; look at the problem, try figure it out, watch someone else do it, decide if what they are doing is the best way, and if so get on and do it with the minimum effort.

I always find comps are an exercise in management of resources; skin, enurance level and time.

Dicking around on a bridge and doing some fingerboard work is probably not the best training.

Richie Crouch

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- Make sure you choose an appropriately powerful outfit for the comp
- Get lots of sleep beforehand (red wine can help to sleep for longer)
- Bring a flat shoe as well as a toe down
- beta whore as much as possible

Good luck  :boxing:

Muenchener

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I always find comps are an exercise in management of resources; skin, enurance level and time.

 :agree: I have the third round of a comp series at one of my local walls coming up on Saturday. I've learned from the first two rounds that it's a lot about tactics on the day.

The series I'm doing is unlimited time & attempts during the day, so endurance and time are basically the same thing for me: I find I can't (try to) boulder hard for more than three hours tops, no matter how conscientious I am about trying to rest & recover enough between attempts. And in the series I'm doing, worked harder probs score more than flashed easier probs, so it's about trying to balance flashing everything I think I should be able to, whilst still having enough in the tank for decent attempts on some harder things. And knowing when to cut losses when something turns out to be hopeless: it's a comp not a training session.

Skin: comp problems tend to be on new resin holds, so very abrasive. I tape up, lightly and loosely, at the start to preserve skin, and only take it off if I have to because it's getting in the way. Also foot endurance: as Richie says, take some comfy shoes and do as much as possible in them before resorting to your best bouldering toe cripplers.

Take plenty to drink and some light energy snacks: bananas, fruit bars etc.

And watch carefully. At my wall they always set some trick problems aimed at weeding out the merely strong: precarious foot traverses w/no handholds; finishes that involve lying down on volumes to reach finishing holds below & to the side; finishing hold round an arete where reaching over the top is much easier than round the side. This kind of thing can be eminently doable once you've seen the trick, but confusing & error prone if you try to onsight them.

 

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