Quote from: bigironhorse on June 16, 2020, 11:59:37 amDestroying a rope in 6 months, that is quite impressive! What were you doing with it?Nothing, that's the problem! Had one go up putting the draws in Seventh Aardvark at Malham back in January. Back on the ground my belayer noticed that the rope had significantly furred up. Thought it might be a rogue draw but checked and nothing wrong. Used another rope for the rest of the day which was totally fine. Sent the rope back to the retailer who forwarded it on to Mammut. They said there was nothing wrong and it was safe. I agree that it was safe, for now, but the level of deterioration for literally one attempt on a route was not OK! I've used the rope for 4 or 5 sessions since lockdown has eased and it has just got worse. No word yet from the retailer but time to cut my losses.
Destroying a rope in 6 months, that is quite impressive! What were you doing with it?
Interestingly I had a Mammut rope a few years ago and it was fine for me, lasted ages.I would also recommend the Decathlon one (green one I think). Strikes a nice balance between handling and durability. The pink one (thinnest) is also very good.
Another vote for the simond ropes. I've had the pink one for a couple of years (including more dogging than I'd like to admit to) and only just had to chop it for the first time. It's lasted way longer than I thought it would and I'll definitely be getting another when it finally dies.
This could possibly be something to do with Mammut stopping in-house production of ropes in Switzerland in 2016, and now contracting a Czech company to make them instead. Not many brands actually make their own stuff anymore!
If you're mostly into redpointing and shorter routes then I wouldn't bother with a very thin rope, especially if you like steep things where you might bounce up if you fall off. Hauling around on a 9mm is a lot more of a pain in the asshands than on a slightly thicker rope.
It would be handy to have a proper guide to this. When I'm doing lots of dogging with short falls on the draw, often with not very much rope out, I find that I go through rope very very quickly. I can't help but think that I'm chopping too early.The sheath is generally furry/fluffy (or sometimes even a bit crusty - like it's been friction burned slightly?) but I've never waited to see core! I try and chop before it gets to a point where you can pinch the rope and not see daylight through the bight.
Question from a string newbie... How does one know when to chop the ends? I was dangling on mine at Am Fasgadh the other day and noticed it had become very stiff and creaky. Is this just old age? The rope is 15+ years old but was barely used between buying it (maybe one massive lob at Kilnsey) and a few years ago.
I also would not use a 15 year old rope for anything at all.