[tomtom]

STG 7C (may be come a LTG at this rate!) and my seasonal target is a 7a+ on Peak lime

Simple week this week...
On holiday all week in Rhodes... fumbled about on some things way to hard for me, and had a play on a couple of nice easy boulders on the end of a beach..
I ate and drank lots too  and came back 4lbs heavier...
Sun: Back home, little play at Plantation - too hot but nice to have a little work out...

[chillax]

STG: More E3 onsights, E3 at fair head
MTG: Onsight E4
LTG: E7

Mon: New routes on gola.
Tues: Stamina boredom on board
Wed: Rest
Thurs: More stamina boredom (think its starting to work)
Fri: Nowt
Sat:Lots of laps on brit tech 6a boulder problems in Dalkey. Get accosted by overly friendly polish man. Very disconcerting to climb with someone just standing there staring at you for ages. Have to leave. Quite annoying.
Sun: Bouldering at lough dan. 4 6a's (2 of which were top quality), 6a+ roof, 2 classic highball 6b's. Good day out.

[pyrosis]

STG: (this spring) become consistent with non-climbing fitness practices: stretching, running, prehabilitation, antagonist exercise. font 7A on both granite and tuff (have completed one on tuff this spring already). Quit tobacco
MTG: (this summer): font 7A+ on at least two rock types
LTG (this year): font 7B on at least two rock types


M- rest
T- Buttermilk. Came very close to sending Seven Spanish Angels, 7A, hit the lip but didn't latch.
W- Buttermilk. Sent Iron Man Traverse, 6B. Made progress on High Plains Drifter 7A+
T- work
F- work
S- work
S- work

[Muenchener]

STG: 6b os & 6B in Arco at Easter 
   Boulder comp next weekend: 275 points, place in middle third of field
MTG: Mittlere Weisse Wand, Konstein.
   Overhanging pumpy 6b onsight
LTG: 7a rp; classic big Vs / VIs at local crags (Kaisergebirge, Wetterstein etc.) e.g. West Face Totenkirchl

Arco Week Two: combining a decent amount of climbing with a family holiday proved much more difficult than I was - unrealistically - expecting. Frustrating at times. Half-days of proper climbing: three. One or two more would have been nice. Plus a couple of very short evening sessions & some bouldering, which was a morale-saver. Also lots of time doing easy routes with the kids, which were actually fun to a degree (plus doing laps on 100 metre no-hands slabs must score me some SCC technique exercise points) And some via ferratas. Kids seem to like them.

M: Prabi: easy stuff wth kids in afternoon; evening attempt on a 6b, Strane Idee. Very nice little pitch. First time on a 6b on real rock for ca. 15 years; need to start getting a feel for what it's like. Feels ok: did the moves with a couple of rests; problems more head than arms.
T:  Lastoni di Dro: teaching a friend on easy slabs. Yoga.
W: Got up early to go bouldering at Placche Zebrate but rain stopped play.
     More fun easy routes with kids on Baone slabs.
T: am Belvedere. Some warm up routes then on Warm Up, 6b. Onsight attempt fell apart with wrong sequence at 5th bolt. I simply don't - yet - have the experience/confidence to read sequences quickly enough on rock at this grade at this angle. Bolt to bolt the rest of the way for training/experience.
pm bouldering Prabi. Hid from showers on overhanging 6B traverse #40
F: Regina del Lago with Frau M. Warmed up on a soft but good 6a+, then ticked 6b on my third attempt at one: Philip Flann. Good but not soft - but short, sharp cruxy crux compared to the more steep & sustained nature of the previous two tried. YYFY
S: Belaying kids on easy routes - investment in rope guns for my old age
S: Quick early morning bouldering session, Prabi: trying a very nice looking 6B+. No tick: was too high for me without a spotter. Drive home .

[Fultonius]

Weight 77.2kg but this was measured in the evening, so +1.5kg. (after weekend in reiff of heavy boozing and fried pork products)
Mon: 12hrs work, Gym - pullups, dips, deadlifts, leg raises + 5kg and back 3/middle 2 deadhangs.
Tue: 12hr work Abs DOMS!
Wed: 12hr work
Thurs:12hr work, gym. Run/Cycle, Frenchies (3 sets of 3), Back 3 Repeaters, middle 2 deadhangs. Pull ups and Dips.
Fri: 12hr work, Pec DOMS
Sat: 12hr work, 30 Minute Swim, no goggles, sore eyes -  Catch Cold, Feel shit
Sun: 8hr work, Feelshit

2 things of note this week. Right hand index finger is a bit gubbed. Think it's maybe got a little stress fracture, so resting it and it's getting better day by day. DOMS - not sure why but I keep getting really sore muscles for days after. I think the combo of frenchies, pullups and dips (training to failure) and the fact we're out working hard every day really fried my pectorals. I guess doing pull-ups then dips with minimal rest is like doing super-sets   

Probably a  when not well trained!

[Barratt]

Ok week, too much beer, can't remember what days I climbed!

Evening session on stanage far right, awsome. Did Alomst a Hold which I'd found hard before.
Rubicon, got shut down. Noticed I have a slight tweak to finger on right hand.
Stoney, repeated 7a+ pretty easily and nearly got the 7b. Toms original, whilst being pretty easy for me really highlights my shoulder injury.
Climbing works, run round black circuit.

Fell off warming up at stanage, really stupid but luckily I was literally an inch off the ground. Bad landing meant I limped away with battered arm/leg. Idiot.

[fried]

After 5 days in Font, an unsurprisingly unmotivating week of crimping sweaty plastic.

Monday - Shoulder stuff
Tuesday - nothing
Wednesday - Indoor. Tweaky finger tendon, so just do lots of easy stuff and try not to get injured. Shoulder/ posture/ core stuff.
Thursday - nowt
Friday - nowt
Saturday - Car in for 'controle technique' so stuck in Paris.
Sunday - Indoor. Finger still tweaky so same as Wednesday.

Missus has promised if the weather is O.K, it's back to 'le pres' on Friday. yeh.

Weight 75.5kg

[heelhookofglory]

STG / FOCUS (in order of priority):
Ousal Low trav at Churnet.
Strength endurance, core, finger strength and posture correction improvements - Week 1/4 (3-4 sessions per wk).
Complete L1 trad pyramid on lead (Diff 2/8, VDiff 1/4, HVD 3/2, S 0/1)

MTG:
Lead 100 Staffs Grit routes up to HVS (6 DONE)
Redpoint in under 5 attempts ~20 - 30m F7a sport (outside)

M: Rest
T: Rest
W: Strength endurance at Ousal. Felt weak!
T: Garage session; repeaters, core and back.
F: Tried a session at Wright's on the Undercut but very low motivation. Went for a 28.5km / 590m ascent mtb ride around Churnet instead and dumped 1400 cals.
S: Session on Blue Nunn at Stoney Dale. Pretty much flashed Peace Trav and then had a good go on BN, feels like it will go. Also session on Drunk Enough at Roaches but very windy and attention more on mats blowing away than climbing.
S: Sessioned Ousal Low. Completed all moves in isolation. Need to now rest and start the link-ups.

Weight: 144.4 lbs (goal: 140 lbs)
Body Fat: 7.7 %
(Really don't trust my body fat percentage figure but on a week-by-week basis it's fine for keeping track of ups and downs.)

[Dexter]

havent posted in a while
STG: rock atrocity and a few other V9's get more V8/+'s done REVISE LOTS
MTG: get projecting a few V10's
LTG: who knows.... at least 8A and 8a hopefully

Mon Board session felt pretty good
Tue fingerboard focused on crimp strength felt weak
Wed indoor session did a big mix
Thur rest
Fri rest
Sat indoor session got a few projects done
Sun rest

weight around 11st as always

[duncan]

STG: os E5
MTG: Comici this summer

M - Pembroke - see week 62
T - Fairlop Waters Bouldering Park: east London's answer to Font.  Playing with duncan jr. and other kids.
W - shoulder stability exs.
T - shoulder stability exs.
F - Short session at The Arch, escaping from you-know-what.  Wrenched "good" shoulder when foot came off spinner.
S - Shoulder sore
S - ditto

Frustration!  Stupid tweak just when weather and fitness coming together.  Not sure if this is a days, weeks, or months to recover job as yet.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals: As always.

M: Slide about in the heat at Bois Rond and Drei Zinnen - Did Nostalgie assis but subsequently found out the version I did was 6b+ish.. Have to go back!
T: Buthiers - Did a bunch if 6b's and 6b+'s, couldn't muster any real psyche for Lady Bid Clanques or Attention Chef D'Ouvre, shame really!
W: Complete red circuit @ Cusinaire - Great day out... Sore skin.
T: Rest and spot girls and kids @ Diplodocus.
F: Drei Zinnen - Rinsed the correct version of Nostalgie and did Les ailes d'Icare before heading off for child minding detail at canche au merciers..
S: Drive to UK.
S: Day out in London then drive back to Sheff.

Good trip to the forest, not the most productive but ticked a couple of things in the 7+8's and did a full circuit so can't complain. Hung out with some ace folk and generally enjoyed the summer holiday vibe.. Nice!

Back on with the real businesss this week... Spain in just over a month

:D

[Falling Down]

M - Surf
T - S On holiday in Wales with Mrs FD and the dogs.  Resting, sleeping, eating, walking and reading.
M - Cheedale, several routes to 7a.

Managed to shake off the cold but still don't feel anywhere near 100% after five weeks so will visit the doc again this week and see whats up.

Have booked a week in Ceuse in a months time so am off the booze (unless its a birthday party or FA cup final) and eating less and will hopefully shake off this lurgy.

[i_a_coops]

M-W - bar and core stuff.
T - F - lotta work.
S -     Or something like that
S - am: remember why I don't drink. pm: Felt really strong on front levers, oddly enough.

STG: get some frozen peas to ice my finger. It's still swollen, but feels ok now open handed.... this has to be a good sign.

[shark]

Thanks tomtom

11.5-7

T.
W. Lunch. Did a couple of DB Bolton complexes. Still unstable on left arm for mil press. Will work on it. Eve. Ace sess in shed did a project problem based on Oak crux for first time -  3 times! adding an extra move into it on last one. Did 4 laps of easyish circuit without getting pumped which was a first.
T.
F. Afternoon. Headed to Malham with boys after royal wedding. Hot at crag. Scrounged belays and had 5 goes on Oak best being from ground getting to undercut but greased off it.
S. AeroCap in Shed 440moves
S.
M. PM Malham with boys again. Conditions OK. Boys both TRed Consenting in a oner.  Had high hopes I would do well on the Oak but was shit.

Elation to despondancy in a week. Fuck. At least lost some weight.

[nai]

Aims

m - 6 x 7rep sets repeaters, mostly 2 joint + 1 joint edges, 125 pressups, 360ish core reps.
t
w
t - cheedale, Blackwell Halt and Two Tier, a thorough warm up, a good 7a+ flash attempt (2 moves away from easy ground) then made a hash of redpoint attempts but eventual success.
f - 4 x 7 rep repeaters, 2x10 pullups, 125 pressups, 360ish core reps
s out and about on the bike with the trailer, didn't go far but took in some climbs which got the blood pumping
s 14km with trailer including ascent of the Long Line from home, c150m climb. Made it but only just.

With sport season arriving whilst I'm really unfit, unstrong and before I've done any sort of endurance training I have a new set of STGs.

Do some CV every week, be it cycling, running or rowing,
Either climb routes or do endurance training every week
boulder hard / deadhangs every week.

Once I feel like I have 7A+ limestone strength again I'll cut back the bouldering to fortnightly and increase the endurance work, it's hard given the weather but could going inside be the way forward to quicker gains?

[chris05]

STG: more 7A's
MTG: 7A+/7B in 2011

M: Bouldering at Tideswell dale, got 
T: 7m fell run
W: Bouldering at Baslow and Curbar
T: bouldering at Rubicon
F: Theraband
S: 6m walk & bouldering at Rubicon
S: Theraband

Had hoped to head surfing last week but it didn't look worth the drive so went climbing instead. Had a great week camping in the peak, with a couple of quick 6C's. Good to be out on the lime again, qudos still feels nails. 

[Luthor]

STG  - Get out and climb; Stay psyched; train well, not get injured...
MTG  - F7c Sport route in 2011. Add to the fairly small list of font 7b bouldering ticks.
LTG  - font 7c & F8a

Mon     - busy
Tue     - busy
Wed     - busy
Thurs   - lunchtime session at the Works
Fri     - couple of lower grade routes at Horseshoe
Sat     - bouldering in the sunshine at Rubicon
Sun     - busy

[Pebblespanker]

STG Font 7a, or as close as I can get to V6/Font 7a, by end 2011 (current best Font 6c+),
MTG English 6c in some shape or form by end 2012
LTG to have functional fingers post 50!

Still very busy at work and having to bring work home in the evenings before the week off.  Added extra sessions where I can to try and redress the slight imbalance between left arm and right arm. Trying to get more stamina for the target route in Scotland where I can now do the crux but need to link the two sections - probably 40+ moves on whole problem in total

Also covered last week as did not post due to too much work to cover off before the holiday ...

Mon - Light fingerboard sesh
Tue - Raven Tor - managed easiest prob on Pinches Wall, enjoyed self but need to seriously MTFU if expect to do other probs here, a long day at work prob didn't help lol 
Wed - work
Thu - Flew North
Fri - Glen Lednock, good session (Font 4 to Font 6C) inc finally doing the undergraded Bonny Lasses  , Core (240) when got back
Sat - Rugby on the TV
Sun - trad session at Limekilns - bit of a fiasco as head a mess, did some problem traverses and 3 routes
Mon - Rest
Tue- Rest
Wed-  day out in Edinburgh
Thu-  Planned session aborted after stupid step daughter broke ankle whilst skiving school!!! 
Fri-  Glen Nevis Cameron Stone, foiund the grades hard or I was too full of ice-cream, fantastic location and some nice probs to 6A,  by anything harder loll
Sat - rest 
Sun - Glen Ogle for a new problem  session. Found an untouched boulder and managed 9 inc 7 FAs new problems in total to around Font 6B+, really good day on superb rock 

[andybfreeman]

Just back from a trip to font so time to catch up.

I won't bother detailing day to day but i did manage to climb 15 out of 16 days (some of which were very much active rest!)

The highlights were:

Outil de Coupe 7A/+
Tentation soft 7A
Le Flippeur 7A
Vin Rouge 7A dyno 3rd or 4th go
L'Angle Bens 7A+ which went much faster than expected
Smatch 7B - first &b in the forest so a minor YYFY 

Lowlights include:

Strained flexor tendon on already injured left ring finger
Elbow issues, poss tendonitis, from clamping slopers
Missing out on ticking Onde du Choc due to elbow issues
Tearing a chunk out of my finger downclimbing via a tree ona supposed rest day

A great trip all in all with loads of mileage. I want to get back to tick one du choc ASAP. Need to train right crimp strength again (completely neglected crimps after left ring A2 injury)  and rehab elbow first though! Smatch demonstrated the importance of getting an early start when it's hot as it flect piss at 7am! Next trip will be more focussed with fewer late nights and getting going in the cool every day.

Weight this morning was 67.5kg just 0.2kg heavier than when i left which is pretty good considering the amount of cheese, rillette, saucisson, pastries e, beer and wine consumed.

[Big Dave]

Mon - Wimberry bouldering
Tue - Gym, full body - moderate weight
Wed - Day in the Lakes
Thu - Day in Harrogate
Fri - Wimberry bouldering
Sat - Gym, bench/row/squat - heavy
Sun - rest / BBQ

[webbo]

mon. Bike 3 hours.
Tue.rockcity just repeating stuff.
Wed. Nothing.
Thu.Nothing.
Fri.Rockcity.New problems got spanked warmed up badly and just thrashed around.
Sat.Weights and biked for 2 hrs 15 mins.
Sun. Brimham conditions not too bad,just repeated stuff.Managed to hold the finishing hold on something I've not done but couldn't let go to match.Not going too badly.

[205Chris]

STG: Bistec de Biceps on Easter Siurana trip Tick!

MTG (this summer). Queue totally over ambitious list of sport routes:

7b+: Sardine / Frankie / Obsession
7c: The Boltest / Comedy / Arch Enemies
8a: Still trying to work out what might suit me best in the peak.

Back in from Spain in the early hours of this morning, first sport climbing trip abroad in 18 months and it went pretty well. Without going into into every last boring detail, here's the highlights:

S: Fly out. Did a few things up to 6c+
M: Went to Montsant but it rained. Bailed to Siurana village and flashed Pizza de pinya (7a)
T: Put the clips in Bistec de Biceps (7b+) and then did it 2nd redpoint. Aborted the first redpoint after messing up the 2nd clip. First 7b+ in a session.
W: Rest
T: Tried Pota d'elefant. Managed the crux moves but struggled linking everything together. Decided to leave it rather than getting sucked into trying it all week.
F: Easy day including the awesome 6c of Hansel & Gretel.
S: Forget the name of the crag but did a few 7as including Filomatic. Awesome arete very reminiscent of Ai no Corrida.
S: Rest
M: Tried Ya Os Vale but the pockets feel tweaky so decide to sack it off rather than risk injury. Did Guate aqui hay tomate (7a) 2nd go and flashed Valga'm deu quin patir (7a+)
T: Tan san fot (6b) and an onsight of Crosta panic (7a+). Head home.

Pretty pleased with the week., manage to get plenty of mileage in and a quick redpoint of Bistec. In hindsight should probably have got on Mandragora, at least I've got an excuse to go back now.

[cheque]

STG: E1 on big cliffs this summer.
MTG:  E2, 7a and 7A before end of 2011.
LTG: Onsighting long E4s before my planned 2013 USA trip.

M- Pleasley Vale bouldering. Feeling much stronger and suited to the style even than on Saturday. Also fourth day climbing in a row. Feeling in summer shape.
T- Rst.
W- Beastmaker repeaters.
T-Rest. Drive to Lakes in evening. 
F- White Ghyll Crag. Largely getting used to the exposure and the rock.
S- Striddle Crag. Fun easyish routes.
S- Eagle Crag. Massive walk-in, massive route, massive winds. One of those mountain days you don't forget. Lead all the hard pitches and din't even get out of breath on the walk-up.

Feeling fitter than ever and definitely feeling the benefit of fingerboarding. Didn't manage E1 in the Lakes this time as overall abaility of our trio precluded it. Feeling well confident on big multi-pitch, though and happier than ever leading steep pitches.