Supplement your sessions on rock with say one fingerboard session of no more than 1 hour per week involving pullups on edges and pockets and some pull ups on a bar or jugs until you have really worked your lats.
I know its probably not what you want to hear but just keep on climbing on rock, making sure you get really worked after every session.
Just keep on doing what you're doing Steve. You seem pretty psyched and enjoy climbing so just stick with it. At this point you're probably better working your base, adding lots of volume and experience than trying push your top line performance.
From your UKC Fit Club posts you seem to be excited by all aspects of climbing which is great so whilst the weather is good, go and get some routes experience under your belt regardless of grade. Why not aim to do 200 Staffs grit routes and some multi pitching in Wales before the end of the Summer?
An hour of yoga a week will sort your posture out quicksmart, plus you'll get some flexibility and core strength into the bargain. Ashtanga seems to suit climbers best.
Thanks, Shark. More great information there. Plenty to read through and digest.Will also consider Yoga, as mentioned. Any thoughts on incorporating Yoga practice, Shark?
Without Swiss ball:Military Press/ Overhead Squat x6 Curl the DB's to your shoulders, squat, do a military press, stand up, squat down, lower the DB's to shoulders and repeat.Upright row x6High pull snatch x6Press ups on DBs x6 Press ups using the DB's as supports/handlesStraight arm Pullover x6 Roll on to your back arms extended (like Superman) and raise the DB's above your head with straight arms.Bent Over rows x10With Swiss ball:Military Press/ Overhead Squat x6 Curl the DB's to your shoulders, squat, do a military press, stand up, squat down, lower the DB's to shoulders and repeat.Upright row x6High pull snatch x6Dumbell flys on Swiss Ball x6 Straight arm Pullover x6 on Swiss BallBent Over rows x10
Then, also adding some exercises to correct muscle and posture imbalances, i.e. shoulders etc. Any advice on this would be appreciated, too.
Following a conversation with Reeve yesterday I have been pondering tweaking the above Bolton Complex. Ideally the exercises should be equally difficult but for me, Reeve and I suspect most others the Military Press / Overhead squat is likely to be the most difficult.
Quote from: shark on July 22, 2011, 11:34:43 amFollowing a conversation with Reeve yesterday I have been pondering tweaking the above Bolton Complex. Ideally the exercises should be equally difficult but for me, Reeve and I suspect most others the Military Press / Overhead squat is likely to be the most difficult. you Sheffield boys and your iron pumping eh. Gardening is the real new cross training of choice.
Quote from: shark on May 02, 2011, 12:09:57 pmWithout Swiss ball:Military Press/ Overhead Squat x6 Curl the DB's to your shoulders, squat, do a military press, stand up, squat down, lower the DB's to shoulders and repeat.Upright row x6High pull snatch x6Press ups on DBs x6 Press ups using the DB's as supports/handlesStraight arm Pullover x6 Roll on to your back arms extended (like Superman) and raise the DB's above your head with straight arms.Bent Over rows x10With Swiss ball:Military Press/ Overhead Squat x6 Curl the DB's to your shoulders, squat, do a military press, stand up, squat down, lower the DB's to shoulders and repeat.Upright row x6High pull snatch x6Dumbell flys on Swiss Ball x6 Straight arm Pullover x6 on Swiss BallBent Over rows x10Following a conversation with Reeve yesterday I have been pondering tweaking the above Bolton Complex. Ideally the exercises should be equally difficult but for me, Reeve and I suspect most others the Military Press / Overhead squat is likely to be the most difficult. What I intend to do now (and have just done) is one set as above and a second set with heavier weights doing as many reps of the mil press/oh squat as possible but when weakening keep doing the squats with dumbells curled to the shoulder to complete the 6 reps then after that throw in a further set of 6 reps standing military press. Each exercise now feels equally difficult and you get to use heavier weights .Hope it meets with Serpico's approval....
often have 15 x bodyweight OHS with a bar as a strength goal.
Quote from: Serpico on July 23, 2011, 09:28:04 amoften have 15 x bodyweight OHS with a bar as a strength goal. Anyone seen a decimal point anywhere, it seems to have gone missing
Technique is easy, strength is harder to come by.
No, you've just ruined it for everyone... I notice you've still not included the 6x Hammer curls to start, they're an important addition and get the DB's in the correct position for the OH squat/press combo.As for each exercise not feeling equally difficult, it's more the case that you're not equally adept at each exercise, the point is that the OHS/MP combo is a weak area for most climbers, other athletes often have 15 x bodyweight OHS with a bar as a strength goal.Keep the routine the same but do what you need to do to raise the level of your OHS/MP combo with supplemental work, start by perfecting the form and technique with light weights and high reps. Try wall squats with you hands above your head.
BTW why is it so much harder to do a military press when squatting than when standing?.
Can do a full set with 8.5kg (without cheating) now. How much do I need to be doing to climb 8c ?