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Route grade calculator (Read 2182 times)

Tommy

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Route grade calculator
April 21, 2011, 11:35:17 pm
So, I've got a bit of question to ask the wisdom of the crowd. I'm really a complete punter when combining and working out how sport grades go together and was wondering if anyone could suggest what the following would be....

7b+ into 8a+ into 7c+ (with no rest sections at all between the grades)

I'm vaguely guessing at about 8b+?

Doylo

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#1 Re: Route grade calculator
April 21, 2011, 11:41:45 pm
Isn't Unjustified 7b+ into 8a = 8c? So that would make your thing 8c+??

Tommy

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#2 Re: Route grade calculator
April 22, 2011, 12:10:04 am
I know it's a side note, but I thought Unjustified had something like a Font 7c+ crux and surely if it were really a 7b+ into an 8a then everyone would do it.... especially weak sport punters like me!

The only thing I can compare to is Infinite Gravity which is 3 x 7b+ in a row, which has created a long and soft 8a+.

Where's the App for this?!  ;D

PS. Chris - cool looking photo on that mega project thing in the Orme I saw in a mag somewhere. You must be fit at the moment then crimp master!

Stu Littlefair

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#3 Re: Route grade calculator
April 22, 2011, 02:53:05 am
Unjustified is about 7b into 8a+ = 8c
Mecca Extension is about 8b+ into 8a+ = 8c

Conclusion: grade maths is for morons.

There are just too many variables for it to be useful; I could do a four bolt 8a into a pumpy 8b and it could still be 8b. You could do the pumpy 8b into a four bolt 8a and it could be 8c+.

Having said all that, if those sections are of anything like a decent length, and there's genuinely no rests, it'll be a lot harder than 8b+.

shark

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#4 Re: Route grade calculator
April 22, 2011, 10:21:20 am
I could do a four bolt 8a into a pumpy 8b and it could still be 8b.

Well done you ! -  :-\ but it sounds unlikely, the grade that is - I challenge you to name that route and call me a moron to my face

Stu Littlefair

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#5 Re: Route grade calculator
April 22, 2011, 10:53:53 am
Can't remember the route name, but I tried an 8b very much like this at a crag called Marche Du Palais near La Turbie last week. Was raindogs like difficulty to an OK rest, to a long and tiring roof section which felt as hard as something like monumental armblaster. Felt like the living end to me, but still got 8b in the topo, probably because there were enough rests to stop the difficulty adding up too much.

If there are no rests, then difficulty mounts up incredibly quickly, whereas even poor rests make a massive difference. Plus, it's loads harder to climb powerful moves after pumpy climbing than vice versa.

moron

Doylo

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#6 Re: Route grade calculator
April 22, 2011, 12:13:54 pm
No tom that pics from last year and i wasnt fit then either!

Tommy

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#7 Re: Route grade calculator
April 22, 2011, 04:32:53 pm
Cheers Stu - I guess there is no calculator then. Oh well, I'll carry on drifting in my world of confusion...

Doylo - you not fit? Pull the other one - I can see those honed abs through your t-shirt. Too much time at the Pill Box I say.

 

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