[Sidehaas]

I'm supposed to be going to Thaurac (nr Montpellier/Nimes) for a 4 day trip over Easter.  Has anyone been there and is it any good?  Or are we better heading somewhere else in the area?  We'll be looking for things from 6b through to 7b.

Cheers

[Neil F]

I think Thaurac is excellent, and it will certainly have lots of stuff in that grade range.  Most people head up to the walls by the showcave, but I prefer the shorter cliffs above the old road which is a bit further up the valley (park in a small quarry and scramble up to the old road).  Lots of excellent, long single pitch routes there.

Claret isn't too far away, and will be a great venue for the 7b contingent, but the 6b folk will definitely prefer Thaurac.  Hortus is good for multi-pitch stuff too.

No doubt Palomides will be along in a while to elaborate...

Neil

[Sidehaas]

Thats great, thanks Neil.  Any must-dos in that grade range?
Also Ive heard/seen something abotu some nasty green plant - is it a problem (if youve never heard of it I'll assume not!)

Thanks again
Si

[Neil F]

Now you're asking...!

I've dug out my old guide and dredged the memory banks, and here's a bit more gen:-

The sector I am thinking of is called Lamentations. I've climbed on some of the other sectors, though not the multi-pitch stuff.  I would have dabbled, but it has always been wet.

A few ones which I enjoyed were:-

Silence Olfactif - 6c
Malais Dans La Civilisation - 6c
Theatre du Vertige - 6c
Beatitude Existentielle - 7a+

Another sector with some good pitches is Benedictin.
Les Ailes du Desir - 6c is good here.

There is a good guidebook, and a decent website for the area too:- http://www.topo-thaurac.com/

Have fun.

Neil

[AJM]

On that note, does anyone know of a reliable place to find the guide?

I'd heard rumours that the show caves stock it?

[nash1]

I thought Thaurac was a bit shite to be honest. Claret and Seynes (and Russan maybe, but haven't bin there) are way way better.

Not to mention Tarn.

Still, it is limestone in the south of France so is better than nothing!

[Neil F]

Which routes did you think were shite, Nash?  Just curious...

You can buy the guide in the Office de Tourisme in Saint Martin de Londres.

Neil

[chummer]

personally I wasn't that taken by Claret, don't get me wrong, it was very good but with crags like The Tarn and Seynes so near I never went back.

I bought my Claret guide in Le Tabac in the village.

[nash1]

The only name I worte down in me diary was Le Depit des Fetards, a 7a+. We climbed only on that sector, but I do remember thinking that I would never go back with all the other crags in the area being a better bet. It was only 2 years ago so my memory is still slightly intact.

[Sidehaas]

Thanks all, some good info.  I guess if we don't like it we can always go somewhere else in the area, but fingers crossed.

[Palomides]

So as not to disappoint Neil...

I really like Thaurac. There are enough contrasting sectors to always find something worthwhile in the sun/shade.

Mur des Lamentations is great, especially around 7b. The 5/6s on the llower tier are all a bit meh and/or chossy, but the upper tier is almost all fabulous.

The other sectors on that side (Benedictins, Aigle, Bal des cons, and so on) are a bit more effort to get to, but really good and with less road noise.

Round the entrance to the grotte the most popular sector is sector Benje. Often busy and a tiny bit polished on the 5/6s but with a handful of good 7s too. The slightly further sectors are usually quieter, with the slabs at Baume d'Ayme being occasionally used by groups (incidentally, L'Arrache Coeur at this sector is an absolute gift at 7b+).

Other crags in the area include Claret (a re-edition of the topo was published a couple of months ago so should be easy to find). I always find the climbing here hard but brilliant: it's all steeper than vertical and mostly on flat holds that quickly punish any lack of fitness.

St Bauzille de Montmel (the closest crag to Montpellier) is currently closed due to fire damage. The local FFME will be purging all the loose rock and replacing all the knackered bolts this spring.

Another alternative is St Jean de Bueges. Not far away but not so many routes.



Three-pitch routes on the pillars to the left, and single pitches on the crag high on the right. A full topo is available on topo-thaurac.com

There's also multipitch at Hortus (2 or 3 pitches), and a load of stuff at St Guilhem. Oh and bouldering at Le Prieure near Lodeve.

Seynes and Russan/Collias are further away and might be too hot if the sun is shining. It's about the same distance the other way to Tarn/Jonte/Dourbie.

If you have trouble finding topos, the best bet is Le Yeti (climbing shop) near Montpellier: http://www.le-yeti.net/Index.aspx

The nasty plant is called "Rue" and produces a nasty sap that leaves skin looking like it's been badly burnt. It's usually removed from routes, but careful where you walk. It's at it's nastiest when flowering in the spring (small yellow flowers).

Have fun.

[Sidehaas]

Urgent request as I am flying out to Nimes (heading for Thaurac) on Friday morning and the weather is looking dodgy over the weekend in southern france 

Does anyone know what crags are ever-dry in that area of France?  I understand there is something at Orgon.  Really need somewhere with 5s through to low/mid 7s.

Any help this evening would be massively appreciated!

Thanks,
Si

[Palomides]

I think you'll have trouble finding something perma-dry.

Claret is steep enough to stay mostly dry in a bit of light rain, and there's Impasse de la Baume at Thaurac which is a cave - there's at least a 6b, 7b+ and 8a that should stay dry:
(pic from http://www.topo-thaurac.com/)

It can sometimes be dry right on the coast, so driving down to La Clape near Narbonne might be an option, but it doesn't look good.

The big problem is that when it rains the air gets really damp, and seepage comes through most of the crags pretty quick, so it's all pretty unpleasant. However, when the sun comes out it's all good equally fast.

Looking at Meteo France I think you'll be best planning to climb Friday afternoon then try and find something dry Saturday. If it rains Sunday too then the tops of most stuff will be wet and you can fall back to tourist stuff:
Grotte de Demoiselles, Grotte de Clamouse, St Guilhem de desert, the Haribo Factory, Musée Fabre, Pont de Gard.

Good restaurants: La Filature (St bauzille de Putois near Thaurac) - quirky but good, Auberge de Cedres (near Claret) and loads of posh places in Montpellier.

If you're really, really desperate to climb then there are walls at Grabels and Odysseum : http://www.altissimo-escalade.com/

Or drive to Spain.

[Sidehaas]

Thanks, much appreciated.  Fingers crossed!