I recon campussing is being painted in that article pretty badly (OH MY GOD ITS SO EXTREME), whereas like john says, doing any kind of steep hard bouldering could likely be just as bad/good. Whats the advice now the, basically if you're a kid only climb small moves on jugs?
[The rate of force development places particularly high loads on fingers as you move off campus rungs.
As for Ondra thinking that hard climbing has given him indestructible fingers, well he would. Had he fucked them aged 14 he might think differently. Sample size of one etc etc.
Quote from: Ru on April 21, 2011, 02:43:30 pmAs for Ondra thinking that hard climbing has given him indestructible fingers, well he would. Had he fucked them aged 14 he might think differently. Sample size of one etc etc.The BMC article is about the specifically higher risks of campussing not hard climbing. Did Ondra do a lot of hard campussing ? I formed the impression that from early on he did a massive volume of roped and indoor climbing and is a latecomer to bouldering.
The BMC article is about the specifically higher risks of campussing not hard climbing. Did Ondra do a lot of hard campussing ? I formed the impression that from early on he did a massive volume of roped and indoor climbing and is a latecomer to bouldering.
The point is, what exactly is being advocated here? Is is that all hard, dynamic climbing should be avoided until you're 18? Just a campus board? Is some hard dynamic climbing ok? If so how much? And all of this set against a background in which the best kids are climbing 9a at 14 and font 8b+ at 15/16 or whatever, involving hard dynamic climbing on small holds.
tonight i may wear my "I am miserable cunt" t-shirt with no hint of irony
Quote from: a dense loner on April 21, 2011, 04:59:38 pmtonight i may wear my "I am miserable cunt" t-shirt with no hint of irony
i'm not miserable n have probably only been so a few times in my life. i'm portrayed as miserable since i don't think watching eastenders deserves to go in the yes yes fucking yes section, n i don't think every meal i've ever had has been the best thing i've ever tasted, nor do i get an erection over cryptic crosswords. woe is me.apart from that this study should obviously be discounted since the authors quite clearly haven't a clue what they're talking about, with reference to whats been wrote on this thread.
Training hard for climbing will hurt people anyway, and fuck knows how an arbitrary '18 years old' rule will change that.
How does the gymnastics community handle this? As theres plenty of children doing exercises not that different from climbing there...
Re. gymnastics, certainly for the youngest 5-10, every "active" second of training is monitored by a coach, either prescribed exercises or observed drills so barely a second of any training, be it in the gym or at home is unregulated. It is perfectly regulated for each participant, with obvious graded progression, but is a fairly 2 dimensional sport. ie much less complexity than climbing.
What about Hamer? That guy campus' crimped.
Can you get one size fits all bollocks blankets?
Binney didn't say that we in the UK are at that point.
The consensus at the symposium was strongly against campus boarding until after growth stops. Not every young climber will suffer injury as a consequence but the evidence that exists points to it being risky. Dave Binney likened this sort of training as throwing eggs against a wall. Are you prepared to sacrifice 99 athlete' careers for potentially one Olympic champion?
The coaches at PYB generally didn't have the stomach for that approach and neither do I.
whilst a similar aged boy hung on the rope crying (literally) to come down, whilst his (fat, never climbed in his life [I assume]) father refused to lower him until he'd topped out.
Still, we could argue on this all night until the point where you can get 100 kids and I get 100 and we put them through 5 years of your ideas and 5 years of mine and see who wins in a super-duel at the end!!
any fool knows that repeatedly doing the same movement causes injury....
…pulling on a small hold is more likely to cause injury than pulling on a big one n so on n so forth
It's not a mega serious issue in some ways - i.e. we don't have 99 broken eggs and one super egg - more that there are 15 broken eggs and one super beast
For those under 18Younger climbers benefit more from improving their flexibility, co-ordination and technique.There is NO NEED TO CAMPUS feet-off or dynamically!
For those over 18Don’t use a campus board with your feet off, or dynamically, unless you are an experienced climber and fully understand what you are doing.
Through being introduced to the power of the board slowly, I've assimilated knowledge of how to warm up etc. Now at 16, can you say to me that I'm more likely to be injured than the guy thrashing about with no warmup? Don't underestimate it as a valuable training tool.