[douglas]

I am going to try some systematic bouldering to address several weaknesses in my ability. My question is, in what order am I best tiring individual muscle groups? I will work fingers (crimp and pinch), lats and obliques.

My thinking is that this kind of knowledge is probably well known among gym aficionados and my guess would be to 'train in a chain' so that neighbouring muscles are tired from the previous exercise and the target muscles are worked. Does this sound correct?

Thanks.

I'd also appreciate any general knowledge about, or personal experience of, systematic bouldering. I've read it was the key to Malc's success. An endorsement enough for me!

[Fultonius]

I'm no training expert, but I would have thought the reductionist approach to training (i.e. ispolating individual muscle groups) is completely at odds with what you're trying to achieve! You don't need big, or even hugely strong muscles to climb hard. \even if you have a massive deficiency in one area, surely you're better to work on it in a climbing specific way?

What are these perceived weaknesses?

[slackline]

  Muscles don't work in isolation, rather in synergy with each other.

A good place to start 

[douglas]

Thanks for the replies.

even if you have a massive deficiency in one area, surely you're better to work on it in a climbing specific way?

What are these perceived weaknesses?

System training is a climbing specific way to work weaknesses so that's why I've chosen it. My personal weaknesses are generally not being able to pull on or hang the holds when I reach them!

The answer to my original question is still not clear. Should I work grip, pull, grip, pull or grip, grip, pull, pull?

[slackline]

Have you read the article I linked to for you?

That describes in detail system training.

If you're problem is not being able to pull or hang certain holds then it might be worth considering...

a) Finger boarding (see the training resources here).
b) MTFU 

[douglas]

Yes I've read it. And the succeeding article on system training plans, both of which I found useful, thank you, but I didn't see it mentioned how or whether the ordering of exercises was important.

[slackline]

but I didn't see it mentioned how or whether the ordering of exercises was important.

Deductive reasoning suggests that if somethings worth mentioning it usually is, so perhaps its not mentioned because its not important? 

[JohnM]

 I wouldn't wait around worrying about the order and just start doing them!

[Vitamin K]

There were a good series of videos on the Udini site which broke down system training into different components. The long video isn't as good but still useful. I think its here: http://tinyurl.com/yd5wv6a

Straight arm - different hold positions
Locks - different hold positions and at different angles
Pulls - usually a big incut hold until strong enough

You will need to experiment with body position depending on the type of hold being used.

Progression can come from adding weight or using small(er) footholds.

Does this go some way to answering your question?

[Dexter]

my advice would be train your fingers as much as possible since you can only strengthen fingers so fast without injuring yourself then when you feel like your fingers cant be pushed without injuring them do some other form of excersise. For example I climb as much as my fingers will let me then on days where my fingers are feeling to tweaky to climb i do core work etc.

[douglas]

Thank you for the advise. There are lots of ideas to work on. I think the least important is probably my original question- I'm sure the order doesn't really matter!