[fried]

Since everyone seems to be on holiday...

Monday - Physio session
Tuesday - work
Wednesday - Indoor session (2.5h) Onsighted 5C which is an achievement for me, hit the top hold of a 6A+, but didn't hold it.
Thursday - Physio session
Friday - work
Saturday - Long mushroom picking trip
Sunday - Indoor (2h) + 1h weights/ core

Weight 74.7kg, so it appears lamb and alcohol form a good diet.

Not working Tuesday so I can spend allday outside, but unfortunately the weather looks like it's going to be crap next weekend, so migt put back my Font camping trip.

[Pebblespanker]

STG Font 7a, or as close as I can get to V6/Font 7a, by end 2011 (current best Font 6c+),
MTG English 6c in some shape or form by end 2012
LTG to have functional fingers post 50!

Finger joint appears fully recovered, still very busy at work and having to bring work home in the evenings Added extra sessions where I can to try and redress the slight imbalance between left arm and right arm. Trying to get more stamina for the target route in Scotland where I can now do the crux but need to link the two sections - probably 40+ moves on whole problem in total - back on it in 2 weeks so need to get finger out and reduce amount of working at home after work - the joys of being a manager!

Mon - Rest and working late
Tue-     work
Wed-    work
Thu-  work
Fri-  nowt
Sat - Core (240) lazy day with Heineken rugby on the telly   
Sun - Power endurance session plus extra focus on Left Arm with extra set of One Arm lock-offs then a BBQ at mates

[andybfreeman]

STG - continue rehab of finger and get ready for font

Other goals as before - 7C and 8a

M - TCA session. Started by doing 4x4s on mid-grade problems - good fun but need to step up difficulty to get a decent training effect. Got slightly distracted by harder problems on the orange circuit and mothership but had a great session, lots of psyche and success!

Tu - TCA session. Repeated all the non-fingery orange problems and did a couple of new ones for the first time. Focused on sloper problems and repeated a couple of the harder blue problems. Worked all the moves on a long, steep problem from the last comp but someway off linking.

W - TCA session. Did a mix of  orange and red problems then circuits. Felt really pumped on blue circuit on less steep wall - all of 5c! Had a 5 minute rest then felt much better on the steeper orange 6c/+ circuit. Did half a dozen laps before doing so made up links on slopers.

Th - TCA session. Mix of problems including some excellent eliminates on the mothership.

F - Short session at TCA. Mix of problems and circuits

Sa - Stamina session at TCA. 2 sets of 10 laps of orange circuit resting for the time spent climbing between laps and then resting 20 mins + between sets

Su - ill so rest

My plan for the week had been to train until my arms fell off so that i can have an easy week this week to get to font with decent skin and plenty of energy.

Weight consistently moving in the right direction. Avergae for week just dipped below 68kg, aiming for 67 for start of font trip next Saturday.

[chris05]

STG: more 7A's
MTG: 7A+/7B

M: 3xDB complex, 8m run, core (500) & theraband
T: 3xDB complex, BM: max hangs and pull-ups, core (500) & theraband
W: 3xDB complex, 7m run, core (300) & theraband
T: 3xDB complex,BM: pull-ups and max hangs, core (500) & theraband
F: rest
S: working but managed quick BM session: pull-ups and max hangs, core (500) & theraband
S: bouldering at cratcliffe & approx 7m trail run

Better week of training, managed to avoid the booze (mostly!). Have started concentrating on one arm locks on the fingerboard which feels pretty intense. Unsurprisingly I still have some way to go before I can do Jerry's traverse!

[Fultonius]

Chris, having read this (and fairly similar previous posts):

STG: more 7A's
MTG: 7A+/7B

M: 3xDB complex, 8m run, core (500) & theraband
T: 3xDB complex, BM: max hangs and pull-ups, core (500) & theraband
W: 3xDB complex, 7m run, core (300) & theraband
T: 3xDB complex,BM: pull-ups and max hangs, core (500) & theraband
F: rest
S: working but managed quick BM session: pull-ups and max hangs, core (500) & theraband
S: bouldering at cratcliffe & approx 7m trail run

Do you not think you'd become a better climber by doing a bit more climbing, and a bit less training?  Also, are you getting enough rest?  (Obviously, we don't all have time to climb all the time, but it seems like you could maybe benefit from it, that is unless you're an absolute piss weak technical maestro?  )

[Luthor]

STG  - Get out and climb; Stay psyched; train well, not get injured...
MTG  - F7c Sport route in 2011. Add to the fairly small list of font 7b bouldering ticks.
LTG  - font 7c & F8a

Mon     - rest
Tue     - Bouldering at the Works.
Wed     - nothing 
Thurs   - nothing
Fri     - nothing
Sat     - Routes at Harpur Hill and Blackwell Holt
Sun     - nothing

Quiet week training / climbing wise.

Did my first F7a this year at Harpur. Cairn - quality little route.

[chris05]

Chris, having read this (and fairly similar previous posts):

STG: more 7A's
MTG: 7A+/7B

M: 3xDB complex, 8m run, core (500) & theraband
T: 3xDB complex, BM: max hangs and pull-ups, core (500) & theraband
W: 3xDB complex, 7m run, core (300) & theraband
T: 3xDB complex,BM: pull-ups and max hangs, core (500) & theraband
F: rest
S: working but managed quick BM session: pull-ups and max hangs, core (500) & theraband
S: bouldering at cratcliffe & approx 7m trail run

Do you not think you'd become a better climber by doing a bit more climbing, and a bit less training?  Also, are you getting enough rest?  (Obviously, we don't all have time to climb all the time, but it seems like you could maybe benefit from it, that is unless you're an absolute piss weak technical maestro?  )

Thanks for the reply Fultonius. Yep I think you are definitely right. I keep meaning to get to the wall more often but after work it always seems quicker and easier to do a fingerboard session. The running etc isn't done for climbing (apart from maybe to keep the weight down) and the DB complexes are with light weights as a warm up, so although the training looks reasonably intense i think I'm recovering Ok.

I definitely do not fit into the "piss weak technical maestro" category so I shall try to get to the wall etc more often!

Thanks.

Chris

[i_a_coops]

easy to remember this week:

M: 150 situps, 50 pressups, 10 pullups on back 3, 6 one armers each arm, 2 front levers (about 4 or 5 seconds each)
T-F: As monday
Weekend: Nada

Right index finger is still a bit dodgy. Been off codeine until ultimate pain happened yesterday, seems ok again now though.

[tomtom]

STG 7C...

A week largely away..
Mon: Damp rubicon. jesus, I'd forgotten how hard peak lime was.... struggled on 6's and tore a chunk out of my finger..
Rest of the week work trip to Vienna...
Sat: Climbing in the Edelweiss climbing wall in Vienna. Weird place - no circuits or problems, just a (reasonably spacious) wall with a hold on every Tnut. Frustrating.. but got a work out...

[Barratt]

Tuesday: Works, back half of purple spottys
Thursday: Stoney, working Carls Walk Trav. Manage to do (my) two cruxes despite them being at the very limit of my reach. Linking this into a tick may be more down to luck than anything else. Will keep plugging away though.
Wed: Run round Dam Flask
Sunday: Stoney, tick Scarab Start - good problem. Look at Lucians Undercut (was nowhere near last year) and i'm nearly there. Tick Tom's Roof Original.

Fairly steady week, seem to be getting back into things after the holiday. Might try and step things up a bit this week.

[nai]

Aims
.
m -Sabot, climbed poorly as seems to be tradition on day one for me
t - Cuvier AM, did La Forge in a few goes (having failed previously) then headed to Duroxmanie where, hoping for peace and quiet, I was dismayed to find a team of about 8 trying it.  Topping out a few tries later I was very grateful of several pads, encouragers & spotters.  PM @ Rocher Canon, few circuit problems and tried Calin des Kims, worked out how to do it about half an hour after leaving 
w - very warm, very tiring "rest" day in Paris, the sights were something else 
t - Cuvier AM, raced against the sun to complete La Vie d'Ange while it was in the shade. Won, just.  PM @ JA Martin, mostly circuit problems.
F - back to JA Martin because the kids loved it so much (snakes, lizards, etc), wasn't inspired til we found some good stuff out back, did Le Printemps Matin a very unfontlike 6c featuring beezer crimps and an ok topout.
s - drove home
S - bonus outing to Stanage for a couple of hours, lead Black Hawk Bastion.

[webbo]

Mon. Nothing
Tue.Rockcity ok session.
Wed.Weights before work.After work bike 1hr 15 mins first time in 3 weeks.
Thu.bike 1hr 40 mins.
Fri.Nothing.
Sat. Shopping in York.Weights.
Sun.Rockcity circuit of 2 x 18 problems.bike 2 hrs 15 mins.

[cheque]

STG: 6C on grit would be nice before it's too hot (think I've missed the boat on this!), but priority is proper route fitness.
MTG: E1 on big cliffs this summer. E2, 7a and 7A before end of 2011.
LTG: Onsighting long E4s before my planned 2013 USA trip.

M- Nothing.
T- Indoor. On high, turned-out rockover something goes 'click' in my ankle. Bugger.
W- As only one ligament appears to have been damaged, I can walk and drive, but certain foot-movements are painful. Seems like a good time to put the Beastmaker up.
T- Repeaters on Beastmaker.
F- Nothing. Ankle feeling surprisingly better.
S- Solo southern Peak esoterica exploration. Find some projects. Bit of scary approach-shod soloing.
S- Shining Clough. Ankle copes fine with the heather-bashing walk-in, less well with even the easiest routes.

This week I plan to let my ankle heal and train on the Beastmaker. This will hopefully lead to better climbing at the weekend.

[Muenchener]

Edelweiss climbing wall in Vienna. Weird place - no circuits or problems, just a (reasonably spacious) wall with a hold on every Tnut. Frustrating.. but got a work out...

Interesting. I was in Tivoli in Innsbruck last month: they had some marked traverses - quite good ones too - but only one marked problem in the whole place. (Rated "schwer", and I managed an uncontrolled flail at the finsihing hold. yyfy) Must be an Austrian thing.

Anyway, on with the show ....

[Muenchener]

STG: Power Endurance Phase of Winter Training Plan.
   Redpoint 6b+ (probably indoors) before Easter
          200 practice falls before Easter. Current score: 109
MTG: Mittlere Weisse Wand, Konstein. 6b os in Arco at Easter
LTG: 7a rp; classic big Vs / VIs at local crags (Kaisergebirge, Wetterstein etc.) e.g. West Face Totenkirchl

M:
T:  Wall, Thalkirchen: getting my head back into routing mode after lots of bouldering & not enough route training lately.
W: Wall, Thalkirchen: fall training with German Alpine Club & worked a couple of 6b redpoint projects. Got all the moves on one of them second go.
T: yoga
F: bike to work w/ hill sprints in park (on foot)
S: Wall, Thalkirchen with Frau M. Ticked 6b redpoint project 3rd go.
S:

[Loner]

Mon- finger rehab
Tues- back rehab, finger rehab
Wed- severe back pain after testing it on light excercise. Foolish
Thurs- finger rehab
Fri- occupational therapist review. Reffered to hand specialist and orthopaedic consultant.
Physio for my back booked.
Sat- physio ball work, finger rehab
Sun- physio ball work, finger rehab.


Frustrated and tired from lack of excercise.

[tommytwotone]

A week of post-Font comedown for me, both physically and psychologically. Still got a bad knee and a very painful shoulder so spent the week taking the patented Ru "don't climb on it and hope it goes away" recovery method.

M - Nowt
T - Went to Guidecliff on spotting duty, didn't climb due to bad knee
W - Nowt
T - Works night out - rare sirloin, chips and plenty of ale
F - Nowt
S - Great sunny day pottering at a very hot Caley, nothing hard but did Stretcher and Bob's Bastard so chuffed with them. Went up to North Yorks to meet my old man, went for dinner and had rare sirloin, chips and plenty of ale
S - Nice walk in the countryside, drove home.

[rich d]

First post on powerclub (or lack of power club) STG 6B MTG(end of 2011) 7A beachball, trackside, attitude inspector and Tcrack.
Mon fingerboard repeaters, pullups
Tuesday same as monday
Wednesday same as Monday
Thursday core and various press ups
Friday quick pull ups session
Saturday BBQ and quite a lot of beer.
Sunday few hours proper puntering at burbage south with a creche load of kids, family and a couple of mates.got a bit of sunburn and gritrash, superb day out 

[205Chris]

STG: Off to Siurana in 2 weeks. I'd at least like to bag a redpoint of Bistec de Biceps.

MTG (this summer). Queue totally over ambitious list of sport routes (aim high and all that)

7b+: Sardine / Frankie / Obsession
7c: The Boltest / Comedy / Arch Enemies
8a: Still trying to work out what might suit me best in the peak.

M: Bouldering at the works
T: 4x4x4s at the works. Just managed to complete the last set. Pumped into the middle of next week!
W: Tried to do on the minute problems at the works but only managed 3 sets out of a target 5 before it got too busy.
T: Stamina session at the edge. Led a few easy routes then finished off on the circuit board.
F: Running
S: Short bouldering session on home board
S: Laps of 20 move circuit on home board

Not a bad week. Trying to cram in the PE work before my Spain trip at Easter. Would have liked to get outside at the weekend in the glorious weather but had too much on.

[Fultonius]

S'pose I should really add my fairly non-eventful week:

STG May 2011: Onsight E4 in the Hebrides, a new >7b route outside, repeat some problems at Dumby - Consolidated 7B+, Mugsy Traverse 7B Musgsy Jump done - tick, Mestizo Traverse 7B, Slap Happy 7A~, Mestizo Sitter (7A+ with a testing heel hook for my gimp leg)

LTG: E5 O/S, Fr8a, >7C

This week:

wt. 76.3 to 76.8 (-0.5kg)


Mon: Nowt
Tuesday: Wall Sesh, bouldering. Was planning on circuits but there was new probelms so got stuck in. Few v5s, plenty V4s, no V6s... Felt like I was climbing badly but went upstairs for a wee beastmaker sesh and destroyed the 45 slopers. With no cheating: 10+ second hangs. 3 sets of 3 pulllups. Hangs +10kg 
Wed: Nowt
Thurs: Dumby Sesh - warm up, did Mugsy Jump Start - first 7A since knee op  retro-flashed Persistence of Vision (Fr7a+) putting the clpis in  and had a good sessions working Sufferance. Have now done all the moves and all the clips (the 4th clip is my crux). Could go soon, could take ages.
Fri: Nowt
Sat: Nowt
Sun: Wandered up Ben Narnain with the slice. Knees felt ok today.

Not sure if E4 in the Hebrides is going to happen - got the fitness but I'm not going to have the rock mileage. Might just use the trip as rock mileage.

[pyrosis]

core (500)

Please excuse me for being ignorant, but what does this mean?

[pyrosis]

STG: become consistent with non-climbing fitness practices: stretching, running, prehabilitation, antagonist exercise
MTG: v6 on both tuff and granite, boulder @ big bend, 2 desert towers, 5.11 crack climb
LTG (this year): high plains drifter (granite v7), morning dove white (tuff v7)

M:  Indian Creek, climbed at Battle of the Bulge Buttress. Sent my project from last year (Black Corner, 5.11) YYFY! Tried to onsight Jane Fonda's Total Body Workout, 20' of offwidth followed by 120' of mostly thin hands in a corner. Hung about 90' up, NNFN! LOL 4 other routes also, mostly 11-'s
T: Indian Creek, Scarface Wall. Sent Scarface (11-), YYFY! Was ringlocks for me at the crux, my meathooks would not go in that crack at all. Also 3 other routes including a send of a cool unnamed 10+
W: Drive back to Bishop
T: Rest
F: Rest
S: Sport climbing on sub-vertical granite, sharp and crimpy. 6 routes to 5.11 including onsight of a 10+
S: Warm session at Happy Boulders, short and hard. Sent Carnivore Hate Devil v4. Very close on Sucker Punch v5, which used to feel impossible for my fat ass.

So have to let a few goals go now, didn't get to big bend, didn't climb any towers.    Just have to send one v6 on granite (have done one on tuff this year) then get a new set of midrange goals! 

[chris05]

core (500)

Please excuse me for being ignorant, but what does this mean?

The number in brackets is the number of reps, so 500 core moves made up of crunches, leg raises, reverse crunches, crunches with twist, dumbell side bends etc

According to a recent thread it may be better to do lower reps with higher intensity...

[Falling Down]

Two weeks now with a viral cough... really annoying.

M - Sports massage pm
T - Pullups and light weights
W - Sport climbing 6b+, 6c+, 6c+ then dogged up Max-a-Million.
T - Kettlebells & weights with lots of rest.
F - Nowt
S - Nowt. GME and friends visiting 
S - Cheedale several 'easy' routes.

This cough/virus is fustrating. It's not bad at all, quite easy to keep doing normal things but anything remotely sustained is impossible.    It feels like its easing off now though.

[Nick S]

Hello - de-lurk here. Refugee from t'other channel...    etc.

Goals -
long term - F8a
medium term - F7c+, sort shoulders/posture out
short term - Chiselling & Space Race at Malham

M: DB External rotations
T: Prone cobras, push ups, scapular wall slides
W: Indoors: bouldering and anaerobic circuits.  3x (2x(14 move/7a+? with shake)+2x(1m off, 10 move/v4) 10m rest. Sore skin.
T: push ups, prone cobras, one-arm-one-leg bridges.
F: push ups (various), DB external rotations. Indoors: bouldering. attempt at anaerobic circuits, stopped by sore skin.
S: Osteo for shoulders. Feel much better. Given some new stretches - new focus on stretching upper traps and back definitely seems to make a difference to sore shoulders.
S: Indoors - bouldering - working through the new set. Intervals on anaerobic circuit - 4x (2x14 moves/7a+? with shake) 2m rest
Daily - stretching: focussing on shoulders, psoas and glutes to correct posture, widening focus on hamstrings and traps from Sunday.

this week = mostly a trade off between skin and endurance.