[andybfreeman]

An early start as I am off to font tonight 

M - Mixed session at TCA. Some red and orange problems and fun eliminates. Managed 2 sets of twice round the orange 6c/+ circuit + odds and evens on the easier yellow circuit

Tu - Last TCA session pre- font. Focused on slopers and power for max-specificity. Finished with half an hour on the BM including reaching and repeating a new PB of 5 pull ups  on the 45s

W - F = rest then drive to london

Sa - dover, dunkirk then font! planning to have a nice easy session in the pm

Su - TBC

Weight down to an average of 67.5kg for the week so far. Dodgy finger is feeling loads better than it was so my psyche is high!

[tomtom]

STG 7C...

M: Nothing (still in Vienna...)
Tues: Back home, afternoon trip to Harmers. Superb session - reached top crimps on Armadillo (?) bottled last high move. Made great progress on the 7A/7A+ to the left of the first tall arete on right.. up to the last set of crimps
Wed: rest
Thurs: Late afternoon trip to Almscliff.. ended up being a near 4 hour session.. Played on the Keel until my core died (tickled pocket keeping foot in - so progress). Worked a chunk of the moves on slopey traverse well (until my skin started to disappear), then up to DWR, rpt of that, the slap and first time (re)flash of Dreamland (I love that problem..)..
Fri: rest
Sat: Football
Sun: Harmers again in the afternoon.. I wasnt as good as on tuesday, but got to same position on both probs.. also managed to get that nasty wall & Pocket thing just to the right of afore mentioned arete... which had been bugging me for a while.

A good week after a week of not doing much. Weight back down to 11 1/2 stone... its interesting comparing the workout i get at the two venues.. After Harmers I'd crimped and mono'd my arms and fingers into aching.. The Cliff left my shoulders and in particlar those sloper muscles feeling very well worked out. Its a shame the primo grit season is at/close to an end....

[rich d]

Monday leave for work 4am.
Thurs get back from work 1155pm
Friday core and lager
Saturday short core session, stretching and wine
Sunday family bumbling at Burbage South. Not too bad a week seeing as work was a mare.

[shark]

Thanks Andy

M AM Rocher Greau.
T  AM Drei Zinnen and Rocher de la Reine
W Paris - climbed Eifel Tower
T  AM Gorge aux chats
F  AM Rocher d'Avon blog post here
S  Drive home
S

Four good morning sessions and bagged half a dozen 6c+ to 7A problems - Cartoon on the last day being the highlight. Also did other bouldering with the boys - both doing well. Weighed in at 11.8/9 this morning - surprisingly considering the pastry consumption. Easy recovery week this week but lots to do at work.

[205Chris]

STG: Bistec de Biceps on Easter Siurana trip

MTG (this summer). Queue totally over ambitious list of sport routes:

7b+: Sardine / Frankie / Obsession
7c: The Boltest / Comedy / Arch Enemies
8a: Still trying to work out what might suit me best in the peak.

M: 4x4x4s at the works. Finished off with laps of the circuit board till boxed stupid.
T: Repeaters on fingerboard
W: Did a few PE circuits on home board ahead of the peak area meet
T: Nada
F: Stoney. Tom's Roof session. Managed to link Figure of 8 into Tom's original.
S: Cheedale. Did the 6c+ on Max Wall to warm up then went up to moving buttress. Put the clips in Never to Look Back, worked the moves then redpointed it. A really good route and well worth seeking out.
S: Out in the peak with friends at Lawrencefield. Not really psyched by anything. Salvaged something by going to Burb South and flashing Mad Llehctim (a no star E3 6b) as a highball. Really enjoyable climbing this way. Repeaters in the evening.

A week to go till Siurana. Probably have a couple of light sessions this week and will report back in a fortnight.

[tommytwotone]

STG - tick the Cliff up to (and including) Font 6c+
LTG - Font 7b

M - First run since Oct last year...5k nearly killed me
T - Guisecliff after work session - got one of the 6c probs on the top boulders pretty quick, good psyche
W - Another (easier) 5k on lunch, went to see the physio about sore shoulder - got told to lay off climbing for a couple of weeks
T - Nowt
F - Mate up for weekend, beers and pool
S - Off to Sheff for the snooker, all-day drinking session until 2am
S - Hangover, sausage sarnie, morning session at snooker and a few hairs of dog

[i_a_coops]

Every day: assorted one armers and front levers, 100-200 situps. Building up slowly to encores on back 3 but not enough motivation to do anything requiring much effort.

Saturday: had cast changed, stitched removed, apparently it's healing well, YYFY. Also got my dodgy finger X rayed, I haven't damaged the bone so just standard PIP joint damage. Hopefully it'll be better by the time I can climb again.

STG: get beastmaker set up. Be able to do multiple one armers again.

[pyrosis]

STG: (this spring) become consistent with non-climbing fitness practices: stretching, running, prehabilitation, antagonist exercise. font 7A on both granite and tuff (have completed one on tuff this spring already). Quit tobacco
MTG: (this summer): font 7A+ on at least two rock types
LTG (this year): font 7B on at least two rock types

M: rest
T: Short sharp session at the Buttermilk. A few warmups then sent Peabody Cave 6B, Go Granny Go 6C, West Corner 6B, unnamed 6B. Tried Bachar Left and Bachar Right, both 6C crimpyness. Saw Kevin Jorgeson working a new highball problem to the right of Evilution, apparently done to the lip by Matt Birch at 8B, very inspiring.
W: Longish session at the Sads. Warmed up and sent Up For the Down Stroke 6B, tried Mothership Connection 6B, tried All About Love 6C, sent Crack Problem 6B, sent several 6A's, tried several more 6C's. Minor tip split at the end of the day.
T: Work 1500-0300 skin fried
F: Work 1500-0300
S: Work 1500-0300 skin still fried
S: Work 1500-0300

Pretty satisfying week. Made plans with a young lass to go up to the Druid Stones this coming Wednesday, where I hope to send Skye Dance 7A. Had come very close in February but haven't gotten back on it since.

[Falling Down]

M - Can't remember
T - Can't remember
W - Works - Circuits and foot on campussing wth GME
T - Long day back and forth to Scotland
F - After work Newstones  & Baldstones raid with Erm, Sam.  Did Baldstones Traverse 7A+
S - Walk then watched footy and drank beer
S - Cheedale Two Tier, 6b, 6b+, 7a, The Inbetweeners 7a+ (1st RP) then dogged moves on Blockhead but stopped due to sore tips.

Cough still there  but feeling better overall.  Ticked hardest problem and route year to date so must be improving...

[Pebblespanker]

STG Font 7a, or as close as I can get to V6/Font 7a, by end 2011 (current best Font 6c+),
MTG English 6c in some shape or form by end 2012
LTG to have functional fingers post 50!

Finger joint appears fully recovered, still very busy at work and having to bring work home in the evenings  Added extra sessions where I can to try and redress the slight imbalance between left arm and right arm. Trying to get more stamina for the target route in Scotland where I can now do the crux but need to link the two sections - probably 40+ moves on whole problem in total - back on it in 1 week so trying to get a good few session of PE in before I go. Trent Bridge was fun as not been down there for a good while, the F6c traverse is well above my current sport ability so pleased I managed it with only a couple of falls  want to be able to do the whole traverse by early summer ...

Mon - Rest and working late
Tue-     Short (very) fingerboard session, work
Wed-    Power Endurance fingerboard session
Thu-  Short (very) fingerboard session
Fri-  social at mates 
Sat - Power Endurance on fingerboad - moved to doing repeaters on 12sec on 3 secs off instead of 7/3, felt beasted + Core (270)   good training day
Sun - Traversing  session at Trent Bridge 18m F6a/+ traverse x 2 and 30m  F6c/+ x 1 fell off a couple of times but the enndurance is deffo getting better 

[chris05]

STG: more 7A's
MTG: 7A+/B

M: core (500)
T: bouldering at the churnet, managed a 6B and a 6C in a couple of tries each
W: core (500)
T: bouldering at Notts wall
F: nothing + pub
S: nothing
S: bouldering at Notts wall

No training this week but did manage to get climbing three times which is good for me. Noticing the difference in my climbing from recent training which is nice..

The next couple of weeks are likely to be a bit mixed with a trip to surf in Wales (surf permitting) and visiting family.

[Barratt]

Mon: Badminton
Tue: Edge circuits at Lunch
Wed: Works at Lunch, red circuit
Thur: Baslow, few new ticks. Briefly looked at Flatworld LH, looks like a nice project for me.
Fri: Works
Sat: Morning Run (4 miles), Gardening and then Booze
Sun: Works, looked at new yellows and was promptly shut down.

[webbo]

Mon.Nothing felt a bit battered from weekend.
Tue.Brimham after work didn't do anything new and got spanked on some stuff I've done lots of times.Did some good moves though.
Wed. Nothing.
Thu.Rockcity.Did a circuit of stuff I've done before 2 x 18 problems.
Fri.Bike after work 2 hrs 15 mins.
Sat.Simons and Lords seat.Did Galaxy and Gorgeous Geordies both 7a.However it took me 4 or 5 goes to do the roof dyno 5+ strange it once was V5 on Yorkshire Grit and its still V4 on there.
Sun.Felt a bit wasted.So bike 3 hrs 5 mins.Completely wasted.

[duncan]

A week (or two?) off from training and UKB PC due to wrist tweak.

Goals for 2011: E5 os; 7b rp

M - nothing
T - nothing
W - 5 mins gentle traversing.  Wrist OK ish.
T - Travel to Riglos, did one of the easy 6as on Mallo Colorado.
F - Moskitos and El Pison regular route
S - Murciana
S - sport-lime at Camarasa.  Onsighted a 6c+, pitch 34 of the holiday, a satisfying finish.

Short but sweet trip to Riglos, great company and lots of climbing done.  No Fiesta de los Biceps this year but as I was getting pumped on the long 6a+ pitches on Murciana it would have been very messy.  Delighted to slap up a 6c+, the first in <cough> years. 

From a training perspective, clearly the winter's bouldering has made me stronger on 4 bolt sprints but not had much effect on 40m plods (well...doh!).  More stamina needed by Friday (start of Trad. season).

[nai]

Aims
.
m -100 pressups, 5x10 pullups, 350 core reps.
t
w - 110 pressups, 6x10 pullups, 375 core reps
t - 125 pressups, 6x10 pullups (4x10+2kg), 350 core reps
f
s - baking marathon ahead of kids party on sun.  Snuck in 125 pressups, 60 pullups and 250 core reps before a meal out and way too much to drink.
s - snacked on leftover tasty treats before a curry & hairy dog or four.

Eldest on holiday this week and next so no chance to get outside, did ok to sneak in four quick sessions.  Had a few weeks of booze and cake fuelled lardiness coupled with poor sleep patterns, performance definitely suffering for it and it needs to stop and knuckle down to some quality training.  But first there's a load of birthday cake and brownies that need eating.

[tomtom]

Aims
.
m -100 pressups, 5x10 pullups, 350 core reps.
t
w - 110 pressups, 6x10 pullups, 375 core reps
t - 125 pressups, 6x10 pullups (4x10+2kg), 350 core reps
f
s - baking marathon ahead of kids party on sun.  Snuck in 125 pressups, 60 pullups and 250 core reps before a meal out and way too much to drink.
s - snacked on leftover tasty treats before a curry & hairy dog or four.

Eldest on holiday this week and next so no chance to get outside, did ok to sneak in four quick sessions.  Had a few weeks of booze and cake fuelled lardiness coupled with poor sleep patterns, performance definitely suffering for it and it needs to stop and knuckle down to some quality training.  But first there's a load of birthday cake and brownies that need eating.

I think you need to do some more press ups Nai

More seriously, anywhere in your gaff you could set up some rings? You might get more out of them?

[nai]

I don't think I'd use them much, this regime is only a temporary thing while the kids are on holidays.  I'd normally fingerboard but wanting to rest creaky fingers at the moment.  Back to normal next week so treating this fortnight as a semi-rest-and-recovery period and get back on the wagon next Monday.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals: Same

M: Beastmaker - Felt tired but did pretty well.
T: 4x4's @ The Edge - Outrageously exhausted but climbed OK.
W: Tired.... Rested. Stopped taking antihistamines.
T: No longer tired! PE circuits - 8 x 40 moves around 6c-7a followed by AeroCap - Battered!
F: Chill.
S: Boulder @ Burbage with the boy - Boy crushed!
S: Short PE session forrlwed by AeroCAp.

Good week: Thwarted by hayfever pills and lack of sleep at the start but finished feeling strong.

This week: Begin new training phase in preparation for Spain.

:D

[Fultonius]

Weight 75.7kg 

Mon: Nowt
Tues: Dumby Sesh, progress on Consolidated (7B+) ahve figured out all the moves again and starting to link sections. Also progress on Sufference. Need to improve my footwork!
Wed: Nowt - got older 
Thursday: Easy Trad at Auchinstarry.
Friday: Nowt
Saturday: Trad at Reiff and bouldering at Reiff in the Woods. Flashed plenty of V0 to V3s, no guide so never really sure what we were trying.
Sunday: Trad at Reiff. First E3 onsight in 18months! 

Good week of getting some rock mileage in.

[Muenchener]

STG: 6b os in Arco at Easter
MTG: Mittlere Weisse Wand, Konstein.
LTG: 7a rp; classic big Vs / VIs at local crags (Kaisergebirge, Wetterstein etc.) e.g. West Face Totenkirchl

Pre-Arco "tapering" week

M: yoga, bike to work.
T: 
W: yoga.
T: bike to work, yoga
F: Thalkirchen, bouldering: traverse intervals & ARC; relaxed session, feeling fit & good for Big Trip.
S:
S: drive to ARCooooOOOOOOoooo for start of first big trip since Verdon in I think '95 or '96. How times have changed: priority now is not to get a few quick routes in on arrival or somewhere en route, but to ensure we reach Bozen during opening times of Ötzi museum.

[cheque]

STG: E1 on big cliffs this summer.
MTG:  E2, 7a and 7A before end of 2011.
LTG: Onsighting long E4s before my planned 2013 USA trip.

M- Rest.
T- Repeaters on Beastmaker.
W- Repeaters on Beastmaker.
T- Rest.
F- Repeaters on Beastmaker.
S- Soloing and photography while mates bugger about at Lawrencefield, then a quick lead of Gingerbread before they go. Soloing at Higgar Tor and Carl Wark afterwards- realise I've been climbing without ankle support. 
S- Ashop Edge. Psyched to climb injury-free for first time in a fortnight and really push it. Fall into stream and sprain thumb 20 minutes into walk in.  Still a brilliant day leading VS despite injury.

I seem to be constantly in a position of semi-injury recently, but still cruising routes that I found hard work a year ago. Hopefully the coming weekend will see me fully fit as my confidence and technique have never been better. The Beastmaker is working in remarkably quick time and it feels like my warm-up for it, (skipping and powerball) is helping my endurance and fitness, too.

[fried]

Monday - work/ psysio
Tuesday - Lost in the Grand Avaux forest, eventually find Beauvais Telegraph, climb lots of easy stuff, do some blue problems, back off a red 6A. Lovely day!

Wednesday - work
Thursday - work/ psysio
Friday - Drive to Font, put up tent, drink pastis.

Saturday - First ever visit to Buthier, have a coffee in the Canard climb some blue stuff, fall off some slabs, have a demi in the Canard.

Afternoon - Apremont Bizons - Some easy stuff, repeatedly fail the same red problem, sulk. Drink pastis

Sunday - Slept badly, so go for a walk find a blue circuit at Restant du long rocher I never knew existed, get mat and do the entire circuit. Very nice/ easy/  low. Fun for an evening session. Drink pastis obviously.

TBC...

[shark]

S: drive to ARCooooOOOOOOoooo for start of first big trip since Verdon in I think '95 or '96.

Hope it goes well 

[Luthor]

STG  - Get out and climb; Stay psyched; train well, not get injured...
MTG  - F7c Sport route in 2011. Add to the fairly small list of font 7b bouldering ticks.
LTG  - font 7c & F8a

Mon     - Bouldering at the Works.
Tue     - Bouldering at the Works.
Wed     - nothing 
Thurs   - Attempted to boulder at Baslow, but didn't do much
Fri     - nothing
Sat     - Bouldering at the Works.
Sun     - nothing

/font]