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training when short of time (Read 2619 times)

seankenny

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training when short of time
April 09, 2011, 09:33:56 am
It looks like I'm going to be a bit busy in May but still want to keep my hand in training-wise. Saw this interesting blog (http://climbstrong.wordpress.com/2011/04/01/minimalist-training/ - sorry can't work out how to hyperlink on here!). How accurate do people think this is, particularly the bit about getting a useful session done in 45 mins? It takes me nearly that long to warm up usually! I reckon that would work out as a warm-up, a handful of goes on something really hard and then home. Will this really do any more than maintain my current level?

Serpico

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#1 Re: training when short of time
April 09, 2011, 10:07:37 am
If you're coming from a warm environment (ie: out of a warm car) into a warm climbing wall, then warming up should only take a few minutes. If you're cold, or the wall's cold then some brisk cardio before climbing will get your core temp up in much less than 45mins.
As for the benefit of short workouts, I used to do 45min sessions all the time a few years ago and they work very well. As an example compare them to doing pullups (or any other resistance exercise); 3 sets of pullups would be enough to work your lats and arms, and could be done in less than 10minutes. A proper, intense, focussed bouldering session should hit all the major climbing muscles in a short period of time.
No other sport that has a similar performance duration (a few minutes for a route, a few seconds for a boulder problem) has as long an individual training session duration as climbing does. I think this is because of; the social aspect of going to the wall, we're used to spending all day at the crag, and the cost of admission to walls makes you feel obliged to get your money's worth.
Get a years membership and train little and often.

seankenny

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#2 Re: training when short of time
April 09, 2011, 12:02:07 pm
Good stuff, thanks for that Serpico.

I was always under the impression that if you do intense strength/power training, that you need a good period of rest afterwards. Is this still the case when your training sessions are very short? I'm quite prone to getting injured so very nervous about over-doing it...

Muenchener

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#3 Re: training when short of time
April 10, 2011, 10:45:42 am
I asked about this a while ago and got some useful replles.

Short version: my office gym has a small boulder cave that I sometimes use for a lunchtime session to supplement one or two longer evening/weekend sessions per week. I found it espectially useful in the autumn when I was focusing on ARC/aerocap: could do some technique drills to warm up, then get a thoroughly good sweat on in 20 to 30 minutes without any fear of hurting my fingers by trying hard problems without enough warming up.

I commuted from to Manchester to Liverpool for a couple of years and I regularly used to stop off at Pex for a quick half an hour in the morning.

tomtom

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#4 Re: training when short of time
April 10, 2011, 01:32:22 pm
I'm amazed at how a short beastmaker session makes m ache the next day. That's 3x6 hang sets with 2 min rests between, repeated 3 times with 5-10 min interval.

duncan

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#5 Re: training when short of time
April 11, 2011, 09:12:48 am
Sean, what you are proposing is what I mostly did for 6 months this winter.  I’m home early to babysit, in return for time off at weekends, so long evenings at the wall are unusual now.  My sessions typically consist of a brisk walk to the wall ("warm-up"?), 10 minutes moderate traversing or circuits, 5 minutes rest, then get properly stuck into problems for strength/power or, latterly, anaerobic endurance for 30 mins or so.  I use a watch and have set resting times to make sure I do a decent volume.  25-30 problems at about 80% max ‘on the minute' feels like a decent anaerobic work-out, as does one 4x4 or 4x6 (2.5 minutes at 80%, followed by 2.5 mins rest, repeat 4-6 times). 

One of many gems in ‘9 out of 10 cats’ is that doing a very little training is far better than nothing.  I'd always try to do something unless I felt completely crap.  If it was a 'high gravity' day, I might just do 20-30 minutes of easy aerobic work. 
 
I tried to have a snack of some kind immediately after and a 'good rest' at my desk or on the train home!

Result was 6 months good training and no injuries - previously unheard of - and consequently feeling stronger and climbing better than I have done in 10 years.  Ironically I hurt myself, not badly I hope, after stopping for 3 weeks.

I am old and untrained so can't cope with much volume on plastic but I'd guess the same principles would apply until you get to fairly serious grades or were aiming for long pitches and long days and needed to train in higher quantity.

All this relied easy access to a wall and, as Serpico suggests, an unlimited climbing deal.  It's hard to justify £10 for a 45 mins visit. 

 

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