[nik at work]

Dave:
Good effort on submergence, though it is much easier for the tall, maybe V6?

Neil:
Dunno where the haze thing is but the arete is at the right hand end of the quarries. Its pretty obvious, it is at the left end of a short wall which has a couple of pockets in it and an obvious crimp and some sumpremely shite layaways. The wall is has a big/huge break at about half height and the rock above this is shite - traverse/jump off. The arete is ace and is climbed on its right hand side, the wall is also ace but substatially harder and if you can dyno from the crimp to the top then you should take up flying, resign yourself to endless hours of snatching for shite holds as you claw your way upwards instead. Just to the right of the wall is another arete that is really undercut at its base. This is also a good problem.

[Doylo]

to jon and nik - i see what you mean about that arete now. it seems much better now you've x-planed it to me. word.

chris, whats the flava way to gain the hign crimps at the end of PH then? Kim and the others were trying to lock over to them with left heel on, but i was laying off the "groove" thing and using slap power to get the first crimp up there with right hand. didn't link it due to chinese-laqueredness though. I had done submergance eariler though (and if anyone says it harder for the short then i say:  :nopity: ).

I think i slapped too, its a bit of a tussle.  I seem to remember a sneaky knee on the lip helping also. Not the most elegant way of doin it though. Nice one on submergence, nasty problem.

[dave]

Dave:
Good effort on submergence, though it is much easier for the tall, maybe V6?

yeah yeah, i did it after warming up on blind date V4. Seriouly though its a great problem though, if a little arse dragging, which ever way you have to do it. my way was nice big open moves and body tension - rad. whats everyone think its "rated"? i know sharma says it not about the ratings, but fuck that, i could really use an ego-wank right now. Be kind to me boys.....

[nik at work]

Well I found it much easier than Blind Date (which I cannot do at all) so that makes it V7/8 I suppose?

But I also found it harder than the Terrace so that would make it V11?

Seriously I thought V10 my way and V47 your way - I just cannae reach....

I think all this proves is that I know cock all about bouldering grades.
Any more suggestions?

[dave]

I expect your way is true V10.7c+. maybe my way scrapes into 7c with a  following wind. but probably not, maybe hard 7b+? throw me a bone.

[nik at work]

I said V47, what more do you want man?

P.S. Does anyone know what the problem is to the right of Jasons Undercling (round the other side of the arete). The sit start, wierd toe hook move to good crimp and a big good sloper, slap over lip to a chip then finish up and right. Big boulder of doom in unfortunate position? I just saw it for the first time yesterday and couldn't believe I'd missed it before.

[Doylo]

I expect your way is true V10.7c+. maybe my way scrapes into 7c with a  following wind. but probably not, maybe hard 7b+? throw me a bone.

Sounds about right i'd say.

[dave]

P.S. Does anyone know what the problem is to the right of Jasons Undercling (round the other side of the arete). The sit start, wierd toe hook move to good crimp and a big good sloper, slap over lip to a chip then finish up and right. Big boulder of doom in unfortunate position? I just saw it for the first time yesterday and couldn't believe I'd missed it before.

this is about 7a+/b, and is good. an excellent variation is when you've got the bullethole and crimp on the lip, make a massive slap leftwards into the pinch on jasons, cock left foot up then work right hand up the arete. a very bo 7b+. Its classic like 101.1 FM.

[Scouse D]

didn't think it quite warranted 7c dave but defo hard 7b+. I find it quite a bit easier than blind date though which you find easy....all swings and roundabouts; horses for courses;too many cooks spoil the broth; a bird in the hand........

[Bubba]

Its classic like 101.1 FM.

You've come over all Judge Jules (not literally  :D )

[dave]

:blowjob:

[neil@canaryclimbs]

went bak today, that purple haze is wicked

the arete is fucking ard, Its was very warm which might have made it feel harder

the two problems in the quarry left of the wall, what are the grades, the arete and the wall left of it of the shitty side pull

[nik at work]

I'm a bit confused. Which arete is fuckin hard? And which arete and wall left of it do you want t know the grades of?

[Huffy]

Hey Nick,

is it not your problem and 'Happy Campus'?

Gotta get back there someday....

[nik at work]

Is happy campus the name you gave to the undercut arete?

If so then I think thats what he means but I'm not sure.

Anyway what grade does happy campus go at?

[mark]

Happy Campus: excellent name.

Any idea how the C........k ladder made its way there?

[dave]

didn't d.....n take it from c......k? i heard it was chucked back over though.

[mark]

didn't d.....n take it from c......k? i heard it was chucked back over though.

D......n? I thought it might have been Z...y.

Anyone know who made the ladder in the first place? A true DIY expert!

[andyh]

anyone know who first did purple haze, cause i'd guess its the same person who pulled down the wall which made the boulder a class bivvy.

wasn't impressed when a saw the destruction to the scene of many a happy night :cry:

[Doylo]

Pete Hurly did the first ascent of the traverse, he's too lazy (and too stoned!)  to bother deconstructing some stone wall though.

[Greg C]

A certain Peter Hurley I believe, lock him up and throw away the key.
 

[Adam Lincoln]

Pete Hurly did the first ascent of the traverse, he's too lazy (and too stoned!)  to bother deconstructing some stone wall though.

Aye was gonna post to say it was burley who did the FA. Wasnt sure though.

Agree with Chris, knocking down stone walls is too much like hard work for Pete

[dave]

just seen in Climber (didn't buy it, reading in library) that welford was claimed the sitter to huffy's campus arete No Class V9. Huffmaster must have done this already, no?

rewind.

[cofe]

i asked huff dogg the other day cos i wanted some 411 type shizzle - apparently he hasn't...

i reckon that contradictory to the name it does have class and is bob ard at V9 word - the JW isn't exactly known for over grading is he...