[Bubba]

Whoah there c.j.d. - I've not even got a copy yet !

I think there's a bit of bouldering on it, but it's primarily a headpointing video. The last one "A film by some climbers" was good though, and apparantly this ones much better so i can't wait to see it. Even though i don't do routes any more, I enjoy watching people's terror  :wink:

[dave]

basically the bouldering amounts to huffy on one problem somewhere, and then a hidden 2 minute feature. less than 0.5% of the total footage.

[dave]

anyone know what the quarries is like after snow?

 :

[Bonjoy]

Should be fine as its edge bouldering, faces south and has a fair bit of tree cover, Purple Haze boulder on Riv' edge may be a bit snowed up tho. If you go, bring plenty of paddage as their is only a few short probs and the rest are micro-routes/highballs, bring old Stanage Guide too, if you have one.

[dave]

if we do go i think it'll primarily be for routes, weather permitting. i like the look of that bear necessities and padington.

[Bonjoy]

If you're a demond crimpster :ev:  have a look at Earthboots (wall left of Jack the Groove(which is on consumed)), top-draw safe but hard E6 6c/7a with runner by crux and runner before tricky end move, stays ungreen in winter too. Crux is leftward rockover using tiny edges.

[nik at work]

I may be wrong but I think earthboots is also featured somewhere briefly on consumed. Not the full route but I'm pretty sure the first or second route flashed up in the intro is earthboots.

Also try Thats My Lot, could do with a repeat.

Paddington is class. There is a direct finish at E4 6a (not sure if that made it into the old stanage guide) and a direct start which coupled with the direct finish is probably worth E5 6b? - thats deffo not in the guide.

Bear neccesities didn't really impress me compared to the other routes in the quarries, but feet neat is supposed to be awesome (a route at the quarries I've never tried!!) and Flex is just the best quarried grit slab ever (both of these routes are also in the intro of consumed - and both are fallen off if I remember right)

Let us know how you get on.

[Kim]

I may be wrong but I think earthboots is also featured somewhere briefly on consumed. Not the full route but I'm pretty sure the first or second route flashed up in the intro is earthboots.

Is that the one someone (dan?) falls off and swings round an arete? if so gear looks good  :D

[dave]

feet neet is the arete fall thing (2 pegs innit, from what i saw there). if i remember i think theres a quick clip of someone (scut?) on earthboots (dynoing for a slot?). Theres also a shot form above of Polish dave on summert green there (flex or final overthrow?) and also a shot from the back of someone on flex if i remember right.

christ i'm sad.

[nik at work]

No, that is feet neet (if it's the one I'm thinking of).
Flex is the big slab which Dan (at least I think it's Dan)  falls quite a long way off to the ground, it might have some sort of reversing the film special effect thing on it so he falls up the route then falls back down?!?
I think earthboots is right at the very start where someone (dunno who) does a slap for a crimp, it is a very short clip I think, I'll watch it tonight and check though. Earthboot is the wall just left of Jack the groove so I would imagine it will be easy to see in the Jack the groove bit of the film (the ascent of Jack the groove is by Dan and is spliced with ascents of two other routes - I can't remember which ones right now)

Am I very sad? Oh yes...

[dave]

is sex drive any good?

[nik at work]

Is that the E3 arete with a side runner?
If so then not the best of the crag by a long stretch. The start is a bit wierd. One of those kind of not sure where to start and where to go things - which is strange for an arete. The top had a couple of nice moves I think. Best thing is to solo it and stick to the right hand side of the arete for the most satisfying and technical solution (but a bit artificial). Also the landing is bad and on a slope and theres trees and shit all around and blah blah blah so spotting could be awkward.

Honestly go and try Final Overthrow and Flex and then just walk around smiling for a couple of months. Also the boulder problem that Tom runs up at the start of consumed is ace, and is just round the corner.

[dave]

The arete left of Nik's wall is a fine v7/v8 dyno.

(and can be done static at much the same grade), the undercut arete to the right of 'Niks' wall is also rather good I believe, done by Huffy I think and I don't know what grade it would be.

went there today on way home from burbage

I don't get this "arete left of Nik's wall" thing. the left arete of that wall looked shite, and as if the whole top part was falling apart anyway. there looked to be brushed footholds up the sort of curving rib ar the right hand end of the wall however - whats that?

John did the huffy arete thing from standing. I got close but that crimp was ripping me skin, and i didn't want to endure the indignified 20minutes of clawing through vertical grass, brames and shit that john had to do. We also noticed a certian famous piece of wood there.

had a brief play on that steep arete thing (the object of this thread) but its clearly nails. all got close to purple haze traverse (good) but eventualy bad light and being totally busted got the better of us, seing us off with a variety of increasingly spectacular comedy failures.

might post up some token shit pictures up for academic interest.

[dave]

[Bonjoy]

The arete left of Nik's wall is a fine v7/v8 dyno.

(and can be done static at much the same grade), the undercut arete to the right of 'Niks' wall is also rather good I believe, done by Huffy I think and I don't know what grade it would be.

went there today on way home from burbage

I don't get this "arete left of Nik's wall" thing. the left arete of that wall looked shite, and as if the whole top part was falling apart anyway. there looked to be brushed footholds up the sort of curving rib ar the right hand end of the wall however - whats that?

 Perhaps 'fine' is overstating the case a little, but it does climb better than it looks. Did yers have another look at Phase Action, now that one is 'fine'.

[nik at work]

went there today on way home from burbage

I don't get this "arete left of Nik's wall" thing. the left arete of that wall looked shite, and as if the whole top part was falling apart anyway. there looked to be brushed footholds up the sort of curving rib ar the right hand end of the wall however - whats that?

The arete is climbed on its right hand side you basically have your right hand in the low pocket, left hand as high up the arete as you can and left foot pasted up high on the arete and the slap/dyno for the 'top'. The top being the big mid height break as you rightly point out the rest of the wall is shite. It is good (or at least I thought so). The static way invovles technical right foot hand swaps in the pocket with muchos body tension. The right end of the wall up the groove thing is a fun little problem, it involves a small dyno for me but a mutant like yourself (i.e. over 5'7) should be able to static style it. All of the problems stop at mid-height due to the shite nature of the top section of wall.

[Doylo]

Cool Dave, were you trying Purple Haze by going high to crimps or were you sticking to the slopers on the lip.   The aretes proper bo eh!

[Kim]

Cool Dave, were you trying Purple Haze by going high to crimps or were you sticking to the slopers on the lip.   The aretes proper bo eh!

we wuz goin to the crimps, take it it goes either way? looks a little trickier if you go with the slopers all the way I guess...

the move to the lip on the arete must be flava when you stick it  :D

[Doylo]

It was originally done sticking to the lip, but as i'm sure you've sussed out this is duff beta, goin to crimps is the way.
Only Ry's done the move to the lip on the arete and its had loads an loads of attempts from some strong folk.

[dave]

to jon and nik - i see what you mean about that arete now. it seems much better now you've x-planed it to me. word.

chris, whats the flava way to gain the hign crimps at the end of PH then? Kim and the others were trying to lock over to them with left heel on, but i was laying off the "groove" thing and using slap power to get the first crimp up there with right hand. didn't link it due to chinese-laqueredness though. I had done submergance eariler though (and if anyone says it harder for the short then i say:  :nopity: ).

[neil@canaryclimbs]

I walked from one end of the crag to the norfolk arms yesturday trying to find these problems?????????????????

Anyone give me some clue were purple haze and this arete is


I found a wall with an arete on it and to its left a problems of a little crimp looking like a dyno to the top..

I was most disapointed I couldnt find this problem

[dave]

the purple haze block isn't actually in the quarries, its on the natural egde. its in the 60m gap between the Cool Running buttress and the butress with We're Only Here For The Smear (senators gully etc). If you've got the '89 stanage guide then this gap is clearly described. In other words its about 200m left of the rivelin needle/blizzard ridge area approx.

[neil@canaryclimbs]

fucker!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! that was the only part I couldnt be arsed walking up to

[unclesomebody]

that's what you get for being a lazy bugger!

[neil@canaryclimbs]

who you calling a lazy bugger at least I got out???????????????????