[grimer]

following the discussions on here, people seem kinda fifty fifty between v and font grades. In new BMC guides, we are in all liklihood going to go for v grades, as in a way, it's down to the toss of a coin, but as far as I can see, the advantages are a) won't be mistaken for other grades and b) people do accept that they are better in the lower reaches, which is what the majority of problems in a guidebook will be. Also, when they occur in non specific bouldering guides, and as most users of these will not be familiar with the v system, there will also be an English tech grade. This will also help for climbers who won't get off the ground in the V ratings.

Were people also divided about the V8+ too. It seemd from the vote that they weren't so popular, but people use them on the forums. It would be best if these grades were standardised throughout guidebooks.

So, people of boulderdom, would you be happy with the V and tech grades in guides, and if so, then as the drowning hippy said, "... like... help man.."

WANTED people with experience in V grades, in order to get these grades right. The next guide this is needed for is Staffordshire, so if you have a knowledge of staffs bouldering and have a biro and an opinion, then get in touch. Having said that, lotst of other guides for the resty of the Peak will be coming round soon too.

Muchos gracia
Grimer

[dave]

WANTED people with experience in V grades,

Sorry to sound like a broken record, but woulnd't it make sense to go with font grades cos we've almost all got experience of them?

[grimer]

well, everyone has experience Vs too, at least as they are used in UK, and opinions are fairly split. Where these are to be used is in regular definitive guides, where bouldering is mentioned, so i think the majority of users will have the same (limited) experience of both. Having said that, the use if V isn't set in stone yet.

[Nigel]

Hey Grimer,

go for V grades, you know it doesn't make sense but since when did grades ever? Font grades certainly don't "down there"! So yeah, and V8+ is my favourite grade and it would be a shame not to see it get an airing, its an ugly ducking that could be a beautiful swan...(just give it a chance brother Grim).

Nigel Kershaw.

[grimer]

I think the V8+ is wierd, it's only purpose is so that it can make the V system directly swappable with another system. But having said this, strange grades and anomalies have nothing inherently wrong with them. MVS and Hard VD for example. Beauties.

[Nigel]

Quite. Imagine a world without HVD. Swimmer's Chimney would be ungradeable, along with many other cleft-based horror shows, standing alone in some kind of sweaty thrutchy vacuum. Ditto V8+. it has its place and is already used, so lets give it a good home...

[Pantontino]

So Grimer, what happened with the new Stanage guide? Why didn't you go for the V grades. I'm sure somebody asked me about this back in the summer? (sorry, the combination of the new and the old child has rendered me sleep-deprived and somewhat lacking in my normally acute faculties)

Cheers, Simon.

[Pantontino]

Neil, I thank you for your open support for V8+. I only wish that you and Chris Doyle had voted on the poll. My lone vote does look rather pathetic (and no doubt caused much amusement to the armchair critics). Mind you, the handful of votes cast for either side hardly constitutes a consensus.

Cheers, Simon.

[Doylo]

The internet isn't representative of the uK bouldering population anyway.  Just because the majority of online boulderers are adverse to V8+ doesn't mean that the bouldering population at large has completely rejected the idea.  Anyway V8+ is seems to be established in areas such as the Peak, Wales , Lancashire.

[AndyR]

(and no doubt caused much amusement to the armchair critics)

Armchair critics! Cheeky scrote! Just 'cos some people don't think it's needed doesn't make us a bunch of fat punters. Oh, wait a minute.........

[Bubba]

The internet isn't representative of the uK bouldering population anyway.  

Certainly not here anyway, there's not enough members on this board yet to really give a good idea of public opinion, though over on CT where they have a large membership, general feeling seemed to be anti-V8+

I think this debate will just run and run - I can see arguments both for and against the V8+ grade. In some ways I'm thinking now that since the Yorkshire guide has implemented V's with a great deal of success, maybe it would be good to remain consistent with that, rather than start offering an alternative V system now.

Perhaps v8+ needs to be "marketed" as much more of a tweak than as a seperate grade which seems to be what most people see it as.

[grimer]

As far as 8+ goes, I'm actually notthat particularly for it, but then I'm not fully against it either. The context of the argument is to try, as much as possible, to get it right before starting to use it in guidebooks. And as for Dtanage, in the end there were so few boulder probs in there, it seemed strange to go and introduce a new grading system for them, especially as no boulderers were going to use it to find their way round.

But still, anyone out there who can help with Staffordshire gradings?

[Bubba]

Justfunk and Fatboyslimfast will be able to help you out with Staffs grades - drop 'em a mail or message from their profiles