[tommytwotone]

Just back from a week in Bleau so thought I'd file my update to kick off...

LTG: 7b by end 2011
STG: Tick the Cliff up to 6c+ from last guide

M - No climbing after knacking my knee on day one of trip. No idea what I'd done, couldn't bend my right leg! Sulked at Cuisiniere.
T - Rocher Canon, a few exploratory problems with still fooked knee lead to discovery that I could climb on it, but not land on it. Did a few easy things, then got Kalins De Kim (7a) 3rd go, YYFY!
W - Elephant, got shut down on all projects but was psyched at mental resilience to keep at it. Got on Matador at Elephant Nord, what a line - big with a capital b and pretty necky at the top. Will be back.
T - Rain in the morning - Gorge Aux Chats in the afternoon. Pottered about ticking off reds, got a sit start link to one of them that gets 7a but then discovered I'd used an out of bounds hold, NNFN!
F - Rain in the morning - Gorge Aux Chats again, but got Sa Pelle Au Logis (6c+/7a) after a few tries, YYFY!
S - Journey back, steak and chips in the pub on arrival
S - Swung by Peak on way back and pottered round Burbage South (couldn't face another shutdown at West), repeated Crash n' Gurn 2nd go and flahed Tiger.

I. Am. So. Knackered.

Gonna take it easy this week, feel like I need a month to recover - my knee is crocked, my shoulder hurts, my skin is trashed and I've got a slightly tweaked middle finger on my right hand.

All in all a top trip!

[tomtom]

Sounds like a great trip 3T! nice one

A good week for me back in blighty too...

M: Work, rest etc..
T: First after work trip to the grit Went to Caley with Rob, Lee & Scott, tried Blockbusterlog and had a good play on secret 7th (future project me-thinks...)
W: Rest
T: Burbage W. Met up with Nai.. many many tries on WSS - trying to get a way to control the barndoor on the 2nd/3rd move (LH up to shitty crimpthing). Gave up and had another go at Breakfast - got it first go which surprised me as I was feeling weak and rubbish. Then went back to WSS for some more masochism, and with a bit of toe pull got alot closer (nearly did it) to controlling that darned barn door.. Was knackered (fingers and skin) at that point so thats all good progress.
F: Work, Beers and a shitty letter from the tax man...
Sa: Almscliff on a lovely afternoon. Rock in great nic, strong wind keeping conditions lovely. Got Steves Wall done which I've been trying on and off for a 18 months or so.. felt hard at 7A+ especially as I'm a lankster. Then had a play with the cave traverse but didnt want to burn off too much energy.. Then joined Neil, Tom & Max (Hello..) working slopey traverse (thing traverses L into Morrells) and felt like I'd got many of the sections worked out - but was running short of skin. Time for a final few tries on the Keel - and GOT MY FINGERS IN THE POCKET on the second go.. didnt hold it or anything like that - but thats a good 2cm progress.. using a shitty old pair of Red Chilli flappy boots seemed to work in the slot! After try #3 my core was shot and it just wasnt happening.. but progress none the less..
Su: Rest..

A good week - after enforced rest due to work for 10-12 days a week or two ago I feel back to my best - and a new 7A and 7A+ in the week is a good haul. Wishing I wasnt going away next week now! 

[i_a_coops]

M-F occasional set of situps/pressups.
S - am: operation, went well apparently, 12 bits of heelbone screwed back together. pm: 100 situps
S - 150 situps, 50 pressups.

Oh my god I hate codeine!

STG: Get off codeine as soon as pain allows, get swelling down. Stop getting fatter.

Keep the faith...

[205Chris]

Goal: Sport 8a this summer

Easy-ish post font week before cramming in 3 weeks of training for Siurana.

M: 2 hours on circuits problems at the works
T: Stripped all the holds off my home board. Set a 20 move PE circuit and did several laps
W: Nada
T: More PE circuits on home board
F: Stoney Middleton. Warmed up then went up to Tom's Roof. Finished by climbing circuits on Minus 10 wall till I was boxed into the middle of next week.
S: Nada
S: Nada

[shark]

Thanks tommytwotone

Weight 11.8-10

M. REST.
T.  Eve. Edge with boys. Tried to do 40move PE circuit around main steep bit but didnt get on with it and then ripped a flapper on palm on about 5th go/attempt. Shit session. I really don’t like the Edge bouldering room.
W. Eve. Shed with Poppy. 3 repeats/attempts of 6 hard problems. Not a bad session and Poppy did a bona fide problem. Didnt get to grips with continuity after so sacked it off.
T. Eve Foundry with Poppy. Unhappy with PE session at edge on Weds so do did a better session at Foundry based on pink L2 on right side of Wave.Not bad.
F. REST
S. Malham. Noon. Good conditions. 3 x Cons TR. Baboo Go1 Put clips in play on crux then TR crux to top. Go2 RP to middle of crux. 3 mins rest then lead crux to top Go3 RP to middle of crux fall same place. Rework crux with lower right foot Go4 Fall off at crux. 3 mins rest  then led from thin undercut to top. Drive home. Omlette. Shower. To pub for Norton's birthday pint.
S. PM in Shed. Continuity. 20move easyish circuit in shed I min rest between goes 5 mins rest between sets Set#1. 1+1+1+1=80moves Set#2 2+2=80moves Set#3 3+3=120moves Set#4 2+2+2=120 moves. Set#5 2+2=80moves. Total 560 moves. Poppy's swimming party. This involved a call from Sonia saying the espace had gone up in smoke and a half mile jog. Eve Finger work on fingerboard and in Shed. 

Was pointed out by Sonia on Sunday night that I was out of it last week. Refered matter to Tom who altered plan to scale training down a bit to recover and incorporate week in Font. Growing realisation I need to lose weight but attempt at cutting down on treats and alcohol has been pathetic. Font next weekend. Have had a slightly sore finger for a couple of weeks. Now icing it.

[nai]

Aims
.
m - rest
t - 60 pullups, 100 pressups, 350 core reps.
w - rest
t - brief outing to BWest with t2, mostly supplying duff beta for WSS but also did the West shuffle.
f - drive to folkstone
s - drive to font
s - rain grrrr

hope to have more to report next week.  Absolutely chomping at the bit to get out there tomorrow.  Like being a kid on Christmas Eve only more excited

[205Chris]

  Absolutely chomping at the bit to get out there tomorrow.  Like being a kid on Christmas Eve only more excited

Good luck. Have fun and go tear it up.

And remember to look after your skin.

[Fultonius]

STG May 2011: Onsight E4 in the Hebrides, a new >7b route outside, repeat some problems at Dumby - Consolidated 7B+, Mugsy Traverse 7B, Mestizo Traverse 7B, Slap Happy 7A~, Mestizo Sitter (7A+ with a testing heel hook for my gimp leg)

LTG: E5 O/S, Fr8a, >7C

This week:

wt. 76.8kg (-1.3kg)

M: Nothing
T: Dumby Session - warmed up on all the old classics. Have a few slaps at Mugsy Original start and tickled the final jug. Had a few laps on Sufference and have now done all the moves. Pretty psyched as I worked out a non heel-hook way of doing the big heel hook move. I'm struggling the the subtle body positions and footwork (my weaknesses) so a great training route & project route!
W: Curry and 
T: Route session at GCW: Flashed a 7a and nearly flashed a 7b, then nearly got the 7b again but foot popped while clipped with loads of slack out and took a massive whipper! Somehow managed to untangle from the rope and not go upside down. Feeling really good indoors, 6c+/7a are feeling straightforward.
F: 
S: Nowt
S: Short session at Dunglas (pretty shitty short overhanging crimpy sport venue) did a couple of F7a's in quick time. COLD!

Not a lot of actual climbing, but feeling lighter, stronger, fitter and a little "better". Long may it continue!

[TobyD]

M: 4 mile run
T: Malham, CA a few times, appetite, GBH x2 best: floor to split pocket on headwall and crux to top, FAEE x2, 7th Aardvark
W: 4 mile run
T: Malham, CAx2, FAEEx2, 4 working goes on overnight, as too cold and windy for any RPing on longer things. Linked rest to belay.
F: 4.5mile run
S: Malham overnight...
S: Malham GBH...

hmmm, now i look at that... too many hours working through journal articles and typing are depriving me of some amount of imagination to bring variety into my spare time, i feel!

[Luthor]

STG  - Get out and climb; Stay psyched; train well, not get injured...
MTG  - F7c Sport route in 2011. Add to the fairly small list of font 7b bouldering ticks.
LTG  - font 7c & F8a

Mon     - rest
Tue     - nothing
Wed     - Good bouldering sess at the Works 
Thurs   - Bouldering at Minus Ten, Stoney. Did a 6c I couldn't do last year.
Fri     - nothing
Sat     - Afternoon bouldering at Froggatt. Did some new probs inc Jetpack LH and Joe's arete which were both good fun.
Sun     - Bouldering at Works

Nice getting outside a couple of times again this week.

[Muenchener]

STG: Power Endurance Phase of Winter Training Plan.
   Redpoint 6b+ (probably indoors) before Easter
          200 practice falls before Easter. Current score: 96, not lookng good.
MTG: Mittlere Weisse Wand, Konstein. 6b os in Arco at Easter
LTG: 7a rp; classic big Vs / VIs at local crags (Kaisergebirge, Wetterstein etc.) e.g. West Face Totenkirchl

M:
T:  Bouldering, Thalkirchen: PE session: linked boulder problem circuits: 4 x 3-4 problems around my onsight limit, linked by whatever means.  And some traversing
W: yoga
T: yoga
F: Bouldering, boulderwelt. Had a play on the new 6A circuit - 8 problems flashed or in 2/3 goes. 5 x 20 to 40 move PE circuits.
S: watching cricket.
S: Wall, Thalkirchen: family session belaying kids. Yoga.

[GCW]

Short term goals
Do my local cross country (5.8km) in under 30 minutes (big ask I think)
Tick something, anything, from my 2011 aims list!

Medium Term goals
Climb font 7c in 2011 (still a bit ambitious).
Continue trying to keep the weight down (aim for 83kg)- also a bit ambitious!
Do my Winter Hill run in under 43:12 (average 10kmh).
Finish off my remaining esoteric Lancs Quarry projects.




M-  Work, wine.
T-  Work, wine.
W-  Work, wine.
T- Went back to Cadshaw, made some progress on my project- I think it'll take some time!!
F-  Work, wine.
S-  Work, wine.
S-  Was going to go out but the weather crapped out, so went to West View and did most of the stuff up to V5.  Short session, but OK.

Monday weigh in of 86.7kg. 

[chris05]

STG: more 7A's
MTG: 7B

M: rest
T: 3xDB complex, 4.5m run, BM (2x45 moves foot on, pull-ups), core (500) & theraband
W:3xDb complex, BM (2x45 moves foot on, max hangs) & core (500)
T: Friends house warming  lead to..
F: recovery 
S: bouldering session at Notts wall
S: nothing

Worst week in a while, ruined by booze! Time to get back to normal.

[Barratt]

Holiday hang over means little done this week:

Mond: Works for all of 10mins, felt awful, cut knee, went home.
Thurs: Minus 10 - great to get back up to stoney, will be heading back this week.
Fri: Works session, did half the bacl circuit then tried the purple spoty, feel very unfit.

Weight has gone a bit crazy, need to put the holiday behind me and get back on the case!

[Falling Down]

Came down a with wierd, phlegmy chesty cough - thought I was a bit under weather whilst climbing last Sunday - so have taken it easy this week.

M - Work, Walk..
T - Day off.. shifted three tonnes of topsoil.  Walk.
W - Flight, work and early bed.
T - Work, flight, early bed.
F - Work, walk.
S - Tradding and soloing at Curbar.  Lovely day out with Galpinos and Phil.
S - Long walk with dogs.  Cough wasn't great so decided against climbing and did some lifting instead.  Added 5 - 10 KG to my OHS, Snatch and C&J.  Getting really close to a bodyweight lift (75kg) on my OHS and C&J      then  watching City thrash Sunderland.

Cough hasn't gone which is annoying.  Can't do anything remotely aerobic but can pick heavy stuff up and probably hang from a fingerboard so will do that this week.

[fried]

STG - Go and try my new tent in two weeks (and barbeque some sardines) I'll be at grez sur loing in two week.
MTG - 6A in the forest

Too much work, too little time + folks visiting from the U.K = nothing done.

Monday - work, physio
Tuesday - work
Wednesday - 1.5h indoor, more ou of guilt than anything else, as I was tired before I started, but O.K ish by the end.
Thursday - work, physio (not a bad workout, and he's started working on  my posture)
Friday - folks arrive
Saturday - eat, drink
Sunday - eat, drink

Weight 75.1kg but probably just alcohol related dehydration, or else lamb and alcohol is the perfect diet!

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals:
1. 7b+ in a session in Spain early June
2. 7c/+ by end of limestone season
3. F8a

M: Beasmaker session - Hard work but definitely seeing progress - the log shows this.
T: 4x4's at the Edge - Steady work around the 6b+ mark but chucked in a few 6c+'s to see how they feel - generally feel pretty steady - result!
W: Beasmaker session - Considering it was day 5 on (climbed outside previous Sat and Sun) it went really well! Actually did better than Monday's session...
T: 3 x AnCap sets @ The Works - Started shit, got better, ended up destroyed! 4 x AeroCap sets to finish - After a conversation with Tommy I decided to cut down to 100ish moves rather than 150ish - Felt easier but OMG don't think I've ever had such tired arms!
F: Well earned REST!!
S: Isolated hard moves on cellar board and bar. Hard... Still Shit on these!
S: 3 x AnCap sets in cellar - First time doing these at home, set a problem that was utterly nails at first but I managed during the second set and failed on towards the end of the third (couldn't touch it last rep!!) - Boxed! Thought I was going to vomit!
Bouldering\rockhopping @ Burbage with me Dad and Son - Ace! Showed me Dad what bouldering was about and watched the next Adam Ondra crush grit slabs;-) Did a circuit of about 15 problems while they had a sit down;-)
Went for a pint of Landlord and Sausage dinner in the Millstone....  Finished by falling asleep in front of The Empire Strikes Back.... What a day!!

Hardest week yet! Did everything that was required and really felt it! Climbed or trained 8 of the last 9 days so going to have a well earned rest tonight!

This week: The programme says REST!! AeroCap and 4x4's only, early nights, good food (but not too much) and general chillage! Might go to Kilnsey later in the week just to reaquaint meself with real rock 

:D

[andybfreeman]

STG - continue to rehab finger with a view to crushing in font
Other goals remain 7C and 8a. I now have a deadline of getting these done before i go to Australia in October

M - At home due to lack of skin - pull ups then + 10kg then + 20kg, press ups and core
Tu - few pull ups but felt a bit beaten up after the weighted pull ups on Monday
W - Weighted pull ups and core at home. increased added weight to 25kg and managed sets of 5
Th - long day in London for work, got home at 11pm totally knackered
F - planned to climb but felt trashed so ended up going to the pub instead
Sa - fun day at the ring roadboulders for some esoterica. Finger a bit sore but iced when i got home and then felt OK
Su - go ape for a mate's birthday, lots of fun swinging around in the tree tops but no good as prep for font!

Weight - average down to 68kg. A hard week of training followed by a taper week should see me right for font. The ticklist has been amended to reflect ongoing finger issues but hopefully it will be better by then!

[Loner]

Oh my god I hate codeine!

Finally managed to ditch codeine and now working towards easing off diclofenac aswell. Fun times!

Mon- Tired
Tues- Finger rehab,
Wed- Finger rehab, went in for ultra sound scan on my back, turns out I should have been put in for an MRI.
Thurs- Finger rehab, physio ball work
Fri- Fore arm stretches, finger rehab, physio ball work
Sat- Finger rehab


I've been slacking on the back rehab, which I know will only prolong the process.
No excuse for it, motivation an energy levels have been very low.
 

[cheque]

STG: 6C on grit would be nice before it's too hot, but priority is proper route fitness.
MTG: E1 on big cliffs this summer. E2, 7a and 7A before end of 2011.
LTG: Onsighting long E4s before my planned 2013 USA trip.

M- Rest
T- Chascliffe. Headtorch session into the night. Good fun, but a bit damp to make progress on anything hard.
W- Shoulders starting to feel weird so dusted off the stability routine.
T- Fucking sore from using long-neglected antagonists.
F- Nothing.
S- Knackered. Literally sat in bed all day.
S- Got on the File, a route which I was humiliated by 18 months ago as part of endurance-gaining campaign. It felt easy but I couldn't quite do it in one before my frozen belayer lost patience. Rained off Lawrencefield.

I bought a Beastmaker-doorframe interface on Sunday, so I'll finally be hanging that up this week. It's dawning on me that I need a partner who's as psyched for endurance sieges as I am if I'm going to get any good at them. I've started a new role at work which is essentially my old job plus a new one on top but sees me finishing early enough to get to crags every evening. Hopefully these factors will combine to see me achieving climbing nirvana.

[webbo]

Mon.Still suffering from cold or something.So nothing
Tue.Rockcity struggling made up some problems of my own as I couldn't do any of the problems I still haven't done.
Wed.feel shit did nothing.
Thu.Rockcity climbing better.Repeated everything from tues and also did a couple of projects.
Fri. nothing.
Sat.Black rocks,Chasecliffe and Harland edge.Got spanked on a few things did a lot of climbing.
Sun.Leedswall going quite well.

Struggled all week can't shake off this flemy chesty thing.

[aly]

STG: one-armer and front lever.

MTG (by the summer): 7B and/or 7c   done both, but need a proper F7c to be happy

LTG (in 2011): 7C and/or 8a (preferably both)

LLTG (by end of 2012): 8b (if you're going to aim it might as well be high)



Mon: Run, 3.7 miles, quite fast pace

Tues: Bouldering session at Derby wall and short campus session at the end, skin sore

Weds: Short repeaters/deadhangs session and lunchtime run (couple of miles)

Thurs: Fingerboard session and core session

Fri: Brief fingerboard and core session, a bit lazy

Sat: Routes at curbar, mainly an easy mileage day with a couple of nice ticks

Sun: Raven Tor, ticked 7c (summer goal) in 3 goes but I'm not sure it's real 7c so am still after another one.  Feeling not too bad as I also finished off my project from a couple of years ago in a session.

This week: aim to start working on some power enduro to get a bit of route fitness.

[duncan]

STG: Fiesta de los Biceps
MTG: E5 o/s

M - Still feeling under the weather
T - Renewed membership at The Arch.  Felt heavy and clumsy, so did short and gentle traversing session. 
W - Appear to have hurt wrist. Fuckity fuck fuck fuck.
T-S - Nothing.  Coughing-up green stuff and have what looks like psoriasis around my left eye.  Wrist continues to hurt. I am falling apart!

Oh joy, a new different injury.  Ulnar side and triangular fibrocartilage test positive.  Clearly training when run-down was not a great idea but with up-coming Spain trip I felt I should be doing something...

[pyrosis]

Hey all, been at Indian Creek so missed last weeks post, so here is two weeks worth:

STG: become consistent with non-climbing fitness practices: stretching, running, prehabilitation, antagonist exercise
MTG: v6 on both tuff and granite, boulder @ big bend, 2 desert towers, 5.11 crack climb
LTG (this year): high plains drifter (granite v7), morning dove white (tuff v7)

M (3/21): Worked
T (3/22): Worked
W (3/23): Sad Boulders, ~20 probs v1-v2
T (3/24): Sacred Boulders, worked Space Queen v5, sent Shark Bite (stand) ~v3-4 ish, ~10 others v0-v3
F (3/25): nada
S (3/26): Penis Boulders, sent Reed's Roof v4, ~10 others v0-v2
S (3/27): drove to Indian Creek
M (3/28): Supercrack Buttress, 6 pitches cracks 5.10- to 5.10+, send of the day Wild Works of Fire 5.10
T (3/29): Way Rambo wall, 5 pitches cracks 5.9 to 5.10, send of the day Fuzz 5.10
W (3/30): ~2.5 mile run, pushups, handstands, stretches
T (3/31): Blue Gramma wall, 6 pitches cracks 5.10 to 5.11, sends of the day two unnamed cracks 5.10+ each. Attempted Blue Gramma 5.11, but hung
F (4/1): Second Meat Wall, 6 pitches cracks 5.10 to 5.11, send of the day Tube Steaks Tomorrow 5.10+. Attempted At Your Cervix 5.11-, but hung. Toproped Top Sirloin 5.11
S (4/2): Rest
S (4/3): Rest, crappy weather, went to Moab in a rainstorm. Drank beer.

[Pebblespanker]

STG Font 7a, or as close as I can get to V6/Font 7a, by end 2011 (current best Font 6c+),
MTG English 6c in some shape or form by end 2012
LTG to have functional fingers post 50!

Finger joint appears fully recovered, very busy at work and having to bring work home in the evenings

Mon - Rest and working late
Tue-     work
Wed-    work, workload at moment approx 6.5 days worth/week 
Thu-  Power endurance session
Fri-  nowt
Sat - lazy day with rugby on the telly   
Sun - Birchen for another trad sesh with novice leader matey - 25+ routes and problems, really fun day with great weather