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AndyF's guide to Yorkshire grades (Read 7268 times)

Andy F

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AndyF's guide to Yorkshire grades
March 31, 2011, 11:12:23 pm
It is tricky for 7b+, I'll give you that...  :worms: :tease:

Andy F

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#1 Re: AndyF's guide to Yorkshire grades
March 31, 2011, 11:24:20 pm
If you want to make it very specific; Comedy has about 12 moves to a good rest then about another 10 or so moves to the chain. Which would be very easy to transfer to a bouldering wall, i.e. choose a steep wall and go for one long boulder problem of about v6, down climb an easy route and rest on finger jugs until recovered enough and climb the v6 again. You could also try stopping and holding position occasionally - pretending to clip, etc. Repeat 3 or 4 times with good rests in between and if you do it to easily then choose a harder problem. You should feel a real improvement after only two weeks or so, so don't give up if you feel really shit at first.

Once you have achieved Comedy, which I am sure you'll do (quicker than you think if you work it well) then you'll be ideally set up to do Biological Need and then Tragedy.

And don't worry, you don't need to be able to do a front lever to do the route. ;) And it's still 7b+. And Baboo is 8a. On the same scale.

Serpico

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#2 Re: AndyF's guide to Yorkshire grades
March 31, 2011, 11:28:21 pm
Andy Upgrade tries to enhance credibility by proposing downgrade for a route he's got wired :yawn:
It's always been 7c and a good first one to do.

Andy F

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#3 Re: AndyF's guide to Yorkshire grades
March 31, 2011, 11:53:16 pm
Andy Upgrade tries to enhance credibility by proposing downgrade for a route he's got wired :yawn:
It's always been 7c and a good first one to do.

Baboo isn't 7c, and I don't have it wired. In most peoples opinion it's 8a. Unless your name starts with an A. Followed by an r.

Comedy however, is overgraded at 7c. It's a couple of stiff pulls to a jug romp. Obsession is harder. And that's 7b+. Fact.

Serpico

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#4 Re: AndyF's guide to Yorkshire grades
March 31, 2011, 11:55:29 pm
Quote
Baboo isn't 7c, and I don't have it wired. In most peoples opinion it's 8a. Unless your name starts with an A. Followed by an r.

I was talking about Comedy, but you knew that.

shark

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#5 Re: AndyF's guide to Yorkshire grades
March 31, 2011, 11:58:08 pm
Andy this is getting dull. Very.

Andy F

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#6 Re: AndyF's guide to Yorkshire grades
April 01, 2011, 12:00:51 am
But you agree Baboo is 8a...

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#7 Re: AndyF's guide to Yorkshire grades
April 01, 2011, 12:15:00 am
But you agree Baboo is 8a...

Big man Andy.  Why punter me for pointing out that you're playing the big man downgrading a route you've climbed many times.  It just comes over as you being a bit of a dick about it.  I made a comment about some dude dynoing.  Haha you idiot

Edit: of course I meant you're not your
« Last Edit: April 01, 2011, 12:20:13 am by Dylan »

Serpico

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#8 Re: AndyF's guide to Yorkshire grades
April 01, 2011, 09:29:24 am
Unless I'm missing something it isn't obvious that this is split from another topic, which in conjunction with the title could give the impression that Andy's on a bit more of a crusade than he actually is (I hope).
This has happened a few times recently, can we have a moderators note when this happens, with a link to the original topic?

shark

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#9 Re: AndyF's guide to Yorkshire grades
April 01, 2011, 09:34:12 am
Unless I'm missing something it isn't obvious that this is split from another topic, which in conjunction with the title could give the impression that Andy's on a bit more of a crusade than he actually is (I hope).
This has happened a few times recently, can we have a moderators note when this happens, with a link to the original topic?

My fault, sorry, good point. I'll resume including redirection posts.

shark

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#10 Re: AndyF's guide to Yorkshire grades
April 01, 2011, 09:37:35 am
This thread is split from this one http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,17465.msg309937.html#new as it headed off-topic. The thread title was my invention  :-[


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#11 Re: AndyF's guide to Yorkshire grades
April 01, 2011, 09:39:36 am
Splitting a thread, adding a cheeky title and making Andy look like a crusader?

You are Mick Ryan and I claim my five pounds!!!

shark

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#12 Re: AndyF's guide to Yorkshire grades
April 01, 2011, 09:43:19 am
Splitting a thread, adding a cheeky title and making Andy look like a crusader?

You are Mick Ryan and I claim my five pounds!!!


Nooooo what has become of me



Serpico would you like to be a moderator? 

GCW

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#13 Re: AndyF's guide to Yorkshire grades
April 01, 2011, 09:43:57 am
Splitting a thread, adding a cheeky title and making Andy look like a crusader?

You are Mick Ryan and I claim my five pounds!!!


Nooooo what has become of me

[imghttp://4.bp.blogspot.com/_oLbtTQY0cnE/TIgcnggvQyI/AAAAAAAAAF8/jlDFC95ZWE8/s1600/darth-vader-face.jpg][/img]

Serpico would you like to be a moderator?


I bet Mick could embed images though.............

Probes

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#14 Re: AndyF's guide to Yorkshire grades
April 01, 2011, 10:36:14 am
I heard his crusade has gotten to the point of Mindless Grafitti.  :-\

You canne compare Obsession a near vertical tech fest with a seriously overhanging jug fest.

Andy F

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#15 Re: AndyF's guide to Yorkshire grades
April 01, 2011, 06:43:28 pm
I heard his crusade has gotten to the point of Mindless Grafitti.  :-\

You canne compare Obsession a near vertical tech fest with a seriously overhanging jug fest.

That's nearly an admission of guilt  :-\   ;)
In terms of the overall difficulty, there's not much between Obsession and Comedy, in my opinion anyway.

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#16 Re: AndyF's guide to Yorkshire grades
April 01, 2011, 07:20:10 pm
Sorry Andy for the way I started and titled the thread.


Andy F

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#17 Re: AndyF's guide to Yorkshire grades
April 01, 2011, 08:05:18 pm
No need to apologise, I know it was all a bit of a 'jest'. I shouldn't have posted after a couple of beers, fatal mistake  :oops: :slap:

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#18 Re: AndyF's guide to Yorkshire grades
April 01, 2011, 08:45:59 pm
Group Hug time? ;)

 

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