[biscuit]

I've got 17 weeks before i emigrate to get Comedy at Kilnsey done.

I'm strong enough, i am aware you can never be strong enough  , but not done any fitness since November.

I believe it takes about 8 weeks to train route specific PE, and that worked for me last time, but is there enough time to get some benefits out of aero cap/ancap work as well or am i better off keeping going with the strength work ? I believe that AnCap can take months to reach maximum but would a quick blast be time well spent for Comedy ?

[Beastio]

Hard/short boulder circuits combined with Long/Easier circuits should do the job.
On the hard circuits aim to combine at least 3 problems below your onsight limit together and lap em. Easier circuits should be 3/4 grades below your onsight but 3 times longer.

When i climbed comedy i failed once or twice due to powering out rather than being pumped out.

Combine circuits 3 times a week with 1 or 2 routes sessions and you should path it!

[douglas]

Have you been on Comedy? I suspect that will give you the key to understanding what your weaknesses are. I find if you're redpointing, fitness is less of an issue than basic strength / low end PE. Having said that, I try to train the aerobic system a little every week, hoping that fitness will come easier when I need it.

[biscuit]

Cheers.

getting on it next weekend - got Mother's day duty this weekend so i'll have a better idea then.

Going to work both ends and bring it together as it gets closer, if that makes sense.

Thanks to both of you.

[Richie Crouch]

Good luck beast! I was pumped by clip 3 

[Adam Lincoln]

Good luck beast! I was pumped by clip 3 

Its only 3 clips long! 

[Tommy]

I've got 17 weeks before i emigrate to get Comedy at Kilnsey done.

I'm strong enough, i am aware you can never be strong enough  , but not done any fitness since November.

I believe it takes about 8 weeks to train route specific PE, and that worked for me last time, but is there enough time to get some benefits out of aero cap/ancap work as well or am i better off keeping going with the strength work ? I believe that AnCap can take months to reach maximum but would a quick blast be time well spent for Comedy ?

Yeah, get the AnCap in!! As you phase closer to converting it to power endurance, then increase the volume within each each AnCap interval and you'll find it will work well for you. I.e. start at 15 moves per interval, go to 18 and finally finish at 20 before moving onto you last 8 weeks. All gains will help....

Comedy takes about 1min30 to climb (well, the hard bit anyway), so don't forget to make any final preparation specific to your end goal. Massive link ups of 60 move problems on your board probably won't help that much  (but I'm sure you know that already as you've got plenty of good knowledge).
 

[Serpico]

Aerobic work would improve recovery at the rest, but you'd have to spend so much time working it that the time cost would far outweigh the benefit.
Comedy is a route that suits 4x4 training and campus work - focus on increasing the distance of your throws rather than reducing hold size. Density work like On the Minute bouldering will also help by increasing your capacity for doing hard moves. The two other things that will help on Comedy are body tension - particularly front lever-style work, and improving hip flexibility.
The biggest thing though is getting the beta - there are a lot of tips and tricks for Comedy that can make a huge difference.

[The Aaronator]

If you want to make it very specific; Comedy has about 12 moves to a good rest then about another 10 or so moves to the chain. Which would be very easy to transfer to a bouldering wall, i.e. choose a steep wall and go for one long boulder problem of about v6, down climb an easy route and rest on finger jugs until recovered enough and climb the v6 again. You could also try stopping and holding position occasionally - pretending to clip, etc. Repeat 3 or 4 times with good rests in between and if you do it to easily then choose a harder problem. You should feel a real improvement after only two weeks or so, so don't give up if you feel really shit at first.

Once you have achieved Comedy, which I am sure you'll do (quicker than you think if you work it well) then you'll be ideally set up to do Biological Need and then Tragedy.

And don't worry, you don't need to be able to do a front lever to do the route.

[biscuit]

Hadn't checked this for a week or so and missed the other replies.

Thanks guys. It confirms what i was thinking and has filled in some of the detail.

Cheers for all the positive responses too.

Tommy - are you ever not optimistic and upbeat 

Serpico - this is a seriously time limited RP attempt so feel free to hit me with as many tips and tricks as you know 

[Serpico]

There's many variations but these have served me well over the years;
At the 1st move right at the 2nd bolt get the high crimp with your left hand and put your left toe (not heel, although some do this with a right toe catch in the undercut) on the obvious hold out left. Outside flag with your right until you're horizontal and your right foot is higher than your left and reach casually rightwards for the hold on the arete (this is where stagged front levers help). Leave enough space to match, then drop your right hand down to a crimp to the right of the jug and bury your left hand in the hold on the arete. Throw to the hold (campus power and 3 finger open hand deadhang strength), flag with your left foot all the way right and roll your shoulders/body over to get the next hold.
All easy for a bit, then...
The move to the cigar...
Left foot on an obvious black, triangular hold on the arete, right foot goes really high (higher than you think so plenty of hip flexibility needed) onto a vertical edge, which is usually helpfully tick marked for those not wanting to onsight it, and drop your knee, all the way. Reach up for the cigar, only pausing to 'French blow' some chalk off your fingers. The cigar itself you can either wrap it or about an inch to the right there's a hidden pocket part of it which turns it into a jug - your choice.
Final moves, more than one onsight/redpoint has ended in tears here. From the jugs make a move right and throw your right heel up onto a high jug a bit of a stretch to the right, press up off your left shoulder to get a good edge, then it's all over.
The above comes with a money back guarantee of success*.

Under written by lagerstarfish industries who take no responsibility for any of the above, and who reserve the right to charge a handling fee to the value of 3 times your refund amount.

[biscuit]

That is so what i have been looking for.

I may look stupid on a rope with a print out in my hand but i don't care.

Got some real specifics to work on there thanks.