[Andy F]

I have been remiss in not post here more often, need a  to get me back on track.

Aims - 8b in Yorkshire, 8a outside Yorkshire, 7B+ boulder.

Mon - rest skin
Tues - volume at the Hangar, felt very jaded, climbed badly bit still put in some volume. Left bicep felt achey
Wed/Thurs - rest, recover
Fri - good fingerboard session
Sat - felt the effects of the fingerboard, good.
Sun - Malham. 7a+ x 2 to warm up. Clips in Scavenger and waited for the cloud. Had 3 good goes, learnt a lot on the sharp end, got the crux fully sorted, just need a bit more fitness to finish it off. Although it's short it packs the moves in. I counted 10 hand movements to go 5 ft on the crux! Typical Malham I guess. Skin thin at the end, but not as bad as the week before - obviously getting 'crag skin' back. Shouted advice at Shark, some of which was, for once, useful 

[robertostallioni]

Aims - 8b in Yorkshire, 8a outside Yorkshire, 7B+ boulder.

Cheeky bastard. 

[Adam Lincoln]

STG: Fiesta de los Biceps

Off next week to do this Dunc.  Ill report back.

[duncan]

Cheers Adam.  It will be useful to have it chalked-up in advance!

I have a feeling this will be quite a challenge.  Traddy-slabby 6c is one thing, steep 6c+ potatoes is a completely different game for me.

[Pebblespanker]

STG Font 7a, or as close as I can get to V6/Font 7a, by end 2011 (current best Font 6c+),
MTG English 6c in some shape or form by end 2012
LTG to have functional fingers post 50!

Still taking it steady to ensure finger joint fully recovered, very busy at work

Mon - Rest and working late
Tue-  Fingerboard - One arm locks on large holds, OH Encores and repeaters on middle sized slots - going great till the board fell off the fecking wall with me attached!  note to self: review DIY skills   
Wed-    Refixed board to wall with beefy frame fixings, tested and now solid
Thu-  A few DHs and working late
Fri-  Flew North after work
Sat - lazy day with rugby on the telly, cooking canelloni and with the fiance 
Sun - Glen Lednock - good day. retro flashed fingery Font 6A+ and thuggy 6B+ traverses. Worked the northern target route Rock Around the Block (Font 7A)  and managed to finally find a repeatable sequence that works for me, then mananged to link the crux in to the 6A+ for the first time. Now just need more PE to link the thuggy 6b+ into the rest of problem  well happy as the crux link is meant to be english 6c (soft 6c if I can do it) but this has taken several sessions over 2 years to suss out, worth the effort as its a good problem and fingery as f*ck on the crux, finger joints came through with no issues!! Also found vimeo footage of the problem where the guy misses out the hard bit of the 6B+, none of that faggy behaviour for me, its power all the way!

[mark s]

Goals-lift heavier
Plenty of new places climbed up on(no grade goals)
Mon-chest/arms moved more wieght more times than previous week
Tue-rest
Wed-shoulders/back
Thur_roaches,bit of soloin and bouldering upto 7a
Fri-legs
Sat-not a lot,sat around with gf waiting
Sun-macc hospital and watched my daughter join the world.