[Loner]

Have a wad point for reading the instructions properly.

Thanks 

[Pebblespanker]

STG Font 7a, or as close as I can get to V6/Font 7a, by end 2011 (current best Font 6c+),
MTG English 6c in some shape or form by end 2012
LTG to have functional fingers post 50!

Mon - Planche style pressups stylee 3 sets of 15 hands at 90deg, Core crunches (240)
Tue-  Rest
Wed-    Rest
Thu-  Encores 5 sets (jugs and 2 sorts of slopers) , and Core (210) crunches plus iced fingers on LH for 30 mins
Fri-  Rest
Sat - Another Trad trip to Birchens with leading novice matey, lots of moderate bouldering (19 probs) - no fingery stuff, soloed a few routes and led a few; felt beasted but no joint pain which was fecking ace and the resting the fingers is working
Sun - No finger joint pain Theraband shoulder session (200 assorted reps) , plus iced fingers on LH for 30 mins


Finger joint rehab going well - perhaps now approx 95%  one more week of steady sessions this week before easing back into some maximals!! Off to Scotland on the 25th and some very crimpy bouldering in Glen Lednock all being well so need fingers fully recovered! 

[andybfreeman]

STG - sort finger out
other goals as before - 7C & 8a

Late post of what was a lazy week

M - 2 hours @ TCA. Laps of new orange 6c ish circuit on steep board. Black circuit of problems and some finger friendly oranges
Tu - nowt
W - wild west themed work do. tequila started at about 7.30pm with a predictable result! woke up on Thursday morning with a massive gash in my right eyebrow and no memory of how it happened! 6 stitches
Th - short TCA circuits and pootling around session, felt rough so didn't stay long
F - nowt
Sa  - rugby and beer
Su - nowt

Weight hit new high (71kg) on Monday morning  . Have acquired a copy of racing weight and have planned a four week kick start fat loss plan before font. As posting late can report good results so far and the portion control steps I've taken have been less painful than I'd feared they might be

[i_a_coops]

M-F - rest, worry about swollen finger, etc. Lots of pullups and core. personal record of 34 pullups, getting close to a lever pullup.

Saturday: Ace day at Stanage. managed Bentley's Gonna Sort You Out, lots of easy soloing in the sun, found Crescent Arete desperate!

Sunday: Ace day at Burbage, did Pebble Mill ground up, waltzed up Life Assurance for my second E6 onsight. Couldn't do Goliath though!

Tuesday: Went to Millstone. did a short E2 and an E5 to warm up for Masters Edge. Got the fear on Master's Edge, fell off by the shotholes and smashed my ankle (despite having 8 frickin' pads underneath it). NNFN!

With that in mind, goals have changed a little bit:

STG: Don't get fat and unfit, get on the beastmaker, have operation
MTG: Walk again, make my foot start working again
LTG: Become a monster.

In the words of Nibile, I'm going to KEEP THE FAITH. When they finally take the cast off I will have fingers of steel and monumental core strength, and incidentally be considerably better at my degree.

[mark s]

shall only be climbing when time permits now,
certainly no training for climbing.
ive realised the best days climbing are nothing to do with climbing at the limit.the best days are when me and andi go somewhere new and climb within your limits.
now on its 
ltg 150kg bench

[cheque]

Got the fear on Master's Edge, fell off by the shotholes and smashed my ankle (despite having 8 frickin' pads underneath it). NNFN!

Sorry to hear about this. I hope the recovery's straightforward.

[i_a_coops]

Sorry to hear about this. I hope the recovery's straightforward.

Thanks! Me too... should find out more in Monday

[Fultonius]

Got the fear on Master's Edge, fell off by the shotholes and smashed my ankle (despite having 8 frickin' pads underneath it). NNFN!

 KEEP THE FAITH. When they finally take the cast off I will have fingers of steel and monumental core strength, and incidentally be considerably better at my degree.

Fuck No!

Have you read any of my tedious, long and most likely entirely uninteresting blog from when I was recovering from my knee op? I managed to have 8 months off climbing and come back with moderate loss of endurance, but slight improvement of finger strength. Any Q's hit me with a PM or whatever!

Yup, gotta KEEP THE FAITH!