[Loner]

Mon- pain
Tues- pain
Wed- pain
Thurs-pain
Fri- Finger rehab, antagonist work
Sat- back rehab, finger rehab, antagonist work
Sun- back rehab, finger rehab, antagonist work

[shark]

Howdy Loner 

Weight 11.8

M.
T.  Eve. Foundry with kids. Evening. Repeated all the harder probs I can currently do and a couple of good goes on one I can't. 2 sets on Linked boulders (PE circuit) on 40deg board. 2 sets only but major progress.
W.
T. Eve. Egde with Eagles. OK 4x4 session. Diodnt feel that great.
F. Mid PM. LPT. Great conditions. Warmup on UTB then 1 worked go on BBB and 2 redpoint falling off going up at end of traverse. Bit of a rushed session. Should have warmed up better.
S. Eve. Couple of hours at RAC boulders. First time. Fun. Did Pumpy and Marsh traverses. Nice venue.
S.

Was a planned easier week this week and should have done less. Went to BMC Coaching symposium at Plas Y Brennin. Still not sure what a symposium is but some great talks from Binney, Tommy, Audrey Morrison, Sqwauk and others and met lots of people including Drewski 
Tougher training week this week.

[TobyD]

M run 35min
T leeds wall, 10 routes 6c- 7b, felt fatigued and difficult to warm up, 1.5 hour ashtanga
W run, 35min
T bouldering leeds wall to V5ish, felt shockingly tired; couple of easy circuits and slacked it.
F soloed few VSs at Almscliff
S Malham; 4 goes up GBH; floor into crux, and through crux to top linked.
S Malham; awful damp conditions on GBH but same links once each anyway

hoping to get more quality training this week.

[pyrosis]

STG: become consistant with non-climbing fitness practices: stretching, running, prehabilitation, antagonist exercise
MTG: v6 on both tuff and granite, boulder @ big bend, 2 desert towers, 5.11 crack climb
LTG (this year): high plains drifter (granite v7), morning dove white (tuff v7)

Mon - rest
Tue - Happy boulders in AM, did 15 problems v0-v1 and one v4, then it got hot, ate lunch, went up to buttermilk and did 13 more problems, all v0
Wed - Rest
Thu - Happy boulders, 19 problems v1-v3, work 12 hours
Fri- work 12 hours
Sat work 12 hours
Sun work 12 hours

Right now my work schedule is 6 on (12 hour shifts each) then 8 days off: perfect for road trips but not so good for getting the most out of climbing locally. I decided to try to switch it up so in May my schedule will be work 2, off 2, work 1, off 2: Perfect for local climbing.

[Muenchener]

STG: Power Endurance Phase of Winter Training Plan.
   Redpoint 6b+ (probably indoors) before Easter
          200 practice falls before Easter. Current score: 74
   275 points in next boulderwelt comp on 19th March. Actual result: 260
MTG: Mittlere Weisse Wand, Konstein. 6b os in Arco at Easter
LTG: 7a rp; classic big Vs / VIs at local crags (Kaisergebirge, Wetterstein etc.) e.g. West Face Totenkirchl

Aim for the week: perform better in second round of boulder comp than in first round, wthout taking my eye off the main ball of power endurance for Arco

M:
T:  Bouldering, boulderwelt. Warm-up / pre-comp mental training: flash 20 straightforward problems & jump off; no downclimbing allowed. PE: working sections of a 50-move 6A/B circuit; 2 x 40-move 5C circuits.
W: Pre-season alpine approach marches training: 40 mins step-ups w/12kg rucksack
T:
F: yoga
S: Boulderwelt competition. Scored slightly better than last time (260 vs 245) but didn't reach my arbitrary target points total. Flashed more problems than last time - eight versus four - but neglected to get up anything hard / high scoring.
S: Wall, Thalkirchen. Wasted from boulder comp: belayed Frau M. Took some practice falls, mostly intentional.

[nai]

Aims

m - last of four days in Wales.  trad slate then cave.
t - rest, aches mostly confined to thighs - odd?
w - 90 press ups (6x15) & 350 rep core workout.
t - ditto, plus 6 sets repeaters + 3 x sets planks
f - went to BW, Famous Grouse was too warm in the sun so went to look at Countdown but it's nails, pottered on the problems around Crow Man, the nice climbing up to the scrittle, before calling it a day with achy shoulders and creaky fingers.
s - nowt, fingers and R shoulder pretty tweaky
s - nowt, dog tired after kiddy had an unsettled night for third time running, bed at 8pm.

[Muenchener]

t - rest, aches mostly confined to thighs - odd?

Happens to me too. I try to interpret it as a sign of improving technique.

[chris05]

STG: more 7A's
MTG: 7B

M: surfing
T: surfing
W: surfing and then fly back to UK
T: rest & pub
F: rest
S: bouldering churnet
S: 5m fell run (Burbage skyline) and then a short bouldering session at Burbage South

Good to be back climbing and running after a break, mainly climbed easy stuff at the weekend but did have a few goes at Fingers up at Wrights rock which seems like it might go with a bit (probably quite a lot) of work.

[GCW]

Short term goals
Do my local cross country (5.8km) in under 30 minutes (big ask I think)
Tick something, anything, from my 2011 aims list!

Medium Term goals
Climb font 7c in 2011 (still a bit ambitious).
Continue trying to keep the weight down (aim for 83kg)- also a bit ambitious!
Do my Winter Hill run in under 43:12 (average 10kmh).
Finish off my remaining esoteric Lancs Quarry projects.



Realised i forgot to write up last week:

M-  Work, wine.
T-  Work, wine.
W-  Work, wine.
T- Work, wine.
F-  Work, wine.
S-  En famille.
S-  Played on Black Chipper arete and Titfield Thunderbolt at Brimham and made decent progress until my tips developed holes.

Loads more this week 

M-  Work, wine.
T-  Work, wine.
W-  Rematch with Wilton 1.  Greasy conditions meant I repeatedly fell off the crux of Thulsa Doom.  Getting to be a real pain in the arse.
T- Work, wine.
F-  Work, wine.
S-  En famille.
S-  Was going to get out, but it pissed down so spent the morning at West View.  Did nothing harder than V5, but felt OKish.

[duncan]

Week in Wadi Rum - great spot but deserted (pun).  Where were all the climbers?  Not deterred by events in Egypt or Libya surely? 

Did a selection of moderate trad. classics, some scrambly Bedouin routes, and managed to get up Inshallah Factor.  This was great practice for the Dolomites this summer and included probably the hardest trad. pitch I've lead in a decade.  The training appears to be working.

[Fultonius]

Woops - forgot last week 

STG May 2011: Onsight E4 in the Hebrides, a new >7b route outside, repeat some probelms at Dumby - Consolidated 7B+, Mugsy Traverse 7B, Mestizo Traverse 7B, Slap Happy 7A~, Mestizo Sitter (7A+ with a testing heel hook for my gimp leg)

LTG: E5 O/S, Fr8a, >7C

This week:

wt. 78.4kg

Monday: First climb in 4 weeks! Fun bouldering session at GCC. Getting V4s in a few goes and a couple of V5s. Felt a bit weak/heavy/crap but nice to be pulling again!
Tuesday: Nowt.
Wednesday: After-work ski tour up Glencoe. skinned to the top from the carpark, did a lap of the upper mountain, then top to bottom.
Thursday: Mixed boulder/route session. Feeling tired from day before, but also climbing better. Flashed a Fr6c+ and a V5. Promising return, might not have lost too much.
Friday: V.Quick route session after work - 1hr 15 mins, managed 9 routes Fr6a-6c+ with a narrow fail on a Fr7a. I think another coupld of sessions of familiarisation/technique then I can get stuck into some training mixed with as much outdoors as the weather will allow.
Sat: Marrayfield/Scotland Win/Beer
Sun: Hangover.

Hoping for a healthy week with plenty of climbing - might try and get out next sat for some redpointing at Dunkeld UCC.

[Luthor]

STG  - Stay psyched (going well so far), train hard, not get injured...
MTG  - F8a Sport route in 2011. Add to the fairly small list of font 7b bouldering ticks.


Mon     - rest
Tue     - light routes session at The Edge.
Wed     - rest
Thurs   - Parisella's Cave. Did Right Wall Traverse and worked Lickety Split and Clever Beaver.
Fri     - Llanberis Pass. Did King of Drunks on Wavelength boulder - really good problem :-)
Sat     - light routes session at Horseshoe Quarry. Gf led first F6a
Sun     - busy/rest

Good week. Great to have climbed outside 3 days and in such a dramatic location on Friday.

[cheque]

STG: Route-fit ASAP. E1 and 6C on grit would be nice before it's too hot.
MTG: E1 on big cliffs this summer. E2, 7a and 7A before end of 2011.
LTG: Onsighting long E4s before my planned 2013 USA trip.

M- Robin Hood's Stride bouldering. Pretty good session in beautiful weather. Not going full-bore, but it's the first time I've climbed 'three days on' in months, so not disappointed.
T- Rest.
W- Rest.
T- Evening session on the Alport Stone. The traverse is great for training endurance at my level. Did all the moves, but didn't link it before dark.
F- Froggatt. Wicked day. 2 E1s! Delighted.
S- Chasing 2-year-old nephew round soft play centre. Not the rest I had in mind.
S- Quick session on the Alport Stone. Did the traverse. 

Bit of a YYFY week! Two STGs ticked. Bring on the summer!   

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals: Same but... Hopefully going to Spain in June and Font at Easter now.. So will train in Font  and crush in Spain

M: Beastmaker session - Best session yet. Smaller pockets, OH small edges, crushed crimps (still nowhere near a full set of repeaters on 45's tho)
T: Uber session @ The Works - AnCap on the circuit board, still tired from the previous night but managed to repeat all my high points and nearly managed the full 30 move circuit on one attempt
Thinking I may need to switch to a harder circuit but the crux still feels utterly desperate every other go so might give it another week (part of me just wants to do this circuit now but gotta keep focus and not get drawn into PE too early!).
AeroCap on back wall - Good timing as most people had gone by the time I got to this.. Tried to ramp up the intensity and ensured maximum moves per set - Pumped Pumped Pumped!!
W: Rest
T: 4x4 session with Der Fuherer at the Edge - Good session, ramping up the intensity again.
F: Nowt
S: Weights - Mostly arms arms and shoulders... mostly.
S: Nowt 

A hard week- If cut short by being in London (last time for a few months thank god!).. Really felt like I put the effort in this week tho. Worked out I did nearly 1000 actual moves on Tuesday night and still felt Ok on Thursday so conclude that my usual (shit) level of fittness is finally getting better. Did miss an AeroCap session due to being in London for the weekend but will just add a little more in this week (alongside the intensity of Tuesday's session this will probably even itself out - eh Tommy?).

This week: More of the same with added power work.

:D

[tommytwotone]

STG - Tick the Cliff up to 6c+ in the new Yorks guide
LTG -  Font 7b by 2011

M - Nowt
T - Good training session - warmup, Beastmaker and then steep circuits
W - Nowt, ate a huge steak for tea
T - Depot session
F - Out with ex-colleagues, drank way too much in a very short timespan
S - Spent morning being very poorly, went to Cliff and got a few things done
S - Went to Burbage with tomtom, got shut down by The Nose, then by Breakfast. Retreated to cafe for a sulk. Went to Works for 2hrs. Drove home.

[shark]

and included probably the hardest trad. pitch I've lead in a decade.  The training appears to be working.

 

[fried]

Monday - shoulder stuff
Tuesday - work

Wednesday - all day off work, explored rocher du Bouligny, didn't lijke it much! Went to Canche aux Merciers did lots of orange and blue problems. Training on plastic has done nothing for my topping out skills, so bottle out of a fair few top outs with the usual excuses that I don't have a spotter/ can't afford the time off work with a sprained ankle (again)/ that it'll damage my fragile shoulders (true). Lovely day in the sun climbing in a T-shirt.

Thursday - Indoor short session due to aches and pains, do weights and core exercises which strangely don't hurt.
Friday - nothing
Saturday - shoulder stuff

Sunday - Take the missus out for a climb, so we start off at Rocher des Sabots on the childrens white circuit 'til hurt feet hurt, then do lots of yellow and blue problems, still can't top out but there are usually better holds at the top at Sabots. 6A seems as far off as ever, I couldn't even get off the ground on the red circuit. Climbed in a T-shirt again. Even do a shoulder session in the evening.

Weight 75.5kg

Look forward to too much work this week.

[Loner]

Howdy Loner 

Not sure how my post ended up here, I'm convinced i posted it in the previous week...

Anyways, the relevant weeks training:

Mon- Antagonist work, back rehab, finger rehab
Tues- Finger rehab, antagonist work, back rehab (stretches only)
Wed- Finger rehab, antagonist work, physio ball stuff
Thurs- Back pain, finger rehab
Fri- Finger rehab
Sat- Back rehab (stretches only), finger rehab
Sun- Finger rehab, back rehab.

[tomtom]

Last two weeks - nada.
A diet of largely pork products (with the odd olive), beer and mojito's For anyone interested - its not a good way to lose weight. 
Added 3 lbs...

STG 7C

M>Sat nothing..
Sun Burbage with TTT. Drizzled on and off... warmed up on a 6b arete - then failed on the Nose (due to now damp slopers - thats my excuse!) - a fiddle on WSS (but damp meant feet kept pinging off thigns) then moved along to Breakfast.. came agonisingly close (hands over the top but didnt hold) and then my body capitulated.

Not too bad after a reasonable lay off (with no training)... fingers feeling great and not feeling that weak - more just out of practice.. looking forward to working more at Burbizzle...

[Falling Down]

M - Knackered...
T - am Run before work. pm Row, 1-10-1 Pullup Ladder on large slots, Dumbell complex (Snatch, C&J, FS, OHS), Row
W - PM bouldering session at Awesome with Galpinos. Fairly short lived with really sore tips and low psyche.
T - Rest 
F - Rest and more 
S - 
S - Run then 

A week of two halves (and pints).... had friends over for the weekend so spent all the time drinking and eating so some time on the wagon is needed to recover.

[mrconners]

Sat: Caving, went down Jingling and then did the Swinsto through trip. 7 hours underground and lots of waiting as we had a few novices with us. Got very cold and tired

Sun: Knackered

Today: Off to do 30 minutes on the turbo trainer.

Hopefully get to Glossop wall on Thursday and I might start some other basic body tension exercises.
Anyone got any good ideas/tips for building core strength?

 

[shark]

Not sure how my post ended up here, I'm convinced i posted it in the previous week...

My bad.  Sorry I am used to new posters posting in the wrong week to start with and assumed you'd done the same so transferred your post to this week. Have a wad point for reading the instructions properly.   

[aly]

Quite a good week where things seem to be taking a step forward despite not being in full climbing mode.  Going to get cracking again this week coming.

STG: one-armer and front lever.  Continuing with core but no lever training specifically will keep this on the back burner.  Making progress on the one armer though, got from about 40 degrees to the top (RH) with 2 kg assistance which is encouraging.

MTG (by the summer): 7B and/or 7c  Think I'm going to have to take the 7B tick now as I had a good session at Stoney with a ~7B and 7B+ tick (gravity wasn't looking perhaps?) Just need 7c now.

LTG (in 2011): 7C and/or 8a (preferably both)

LLTG (by end of 2012): 8b (if you're going to aim it might as well be high)

Mon: Still had hole in finger but did a good repeaters session on the fingerboard, 8 grip types and x6/x5/x4 for 7on/3off
Tues: Just a core session and a one-armer session on the pull-up bar
Weds: Got manked off the tor but had an awesome session at Minus 10 where I managed to tick a load of stuff I've never been able to touch before (Zippy's Sidepull and Zippy's Problem (easy foothold way I must add) and that egyptian thing)  .  It felt soapy but might have actually been a bit 'sticky damp'-like.
Thurs: Good bouldering session at Derby wall feeling strong, finishing off with some campus work.
Fri: short repeaters session (7/3 x6 for 4 grip types) and some one-armer stuff.
Sat: Opened the limestone trad account for the season at High Tor, feeling a bit rusty but still pretty cruisy at the top of my old comfort zone which was nice.  Quick one-arm session in the evening but feeling weak.
Sun: working but managed a quick core/one-armer session in the evening.

This week goals: get a couple of campus sessions in this week, get on the limestone at the weekend and repeat for the week after.  Then I might start to feel a bit better on rock.

[webbo]

Mon.Rest day first in twelve.
Tue.Rockcity new problems struggled like hell.
Wed.Weights dumbell session.
Thu.Rockcity a bit better than tues.either this set are the most undergraded problems ever or I have lost what ever ablity I ever had.2 sessions to do a v2
Fri.nowt.
Sat.Rowtor and Stanton in the woods.Did get up alot but lots of climbing.managed Unleasing the beast V5 depite putting holes in my fingers.
Sun.weights.bike 2 hours.Appear to be starting with cold.   

[Barratt]

Mon:
Tues: shit session at edge
Wed:
Thur: the cave, good laugh... Always forget how hard it is!
Fri: the pass, too tired to really get into it, still a good day in stunning surroundings.
Sat:

Now in Jamaica getting fat!