[Doylo]

Why don't you buy yourself a little place there, i know you've got millions stashed away :wink:  :wink:

[Adam Lincoln]

Why don't you buy yourself a little place there, i know you've got millions stashed away :wink:  :wink:

Mate , iam looking! But its so expensive in the forest. Got a place i can always stay in Avon, which is 20 minutes from most places

[Doylo]

what u want is an old barn u can do up into a nice little holiday cottage, rent it out when your not there and bingo, you'll be quids in!

[Mike_H]

Mate , iam looking! But its so expensive in the forest. Got a place i can always stay in Avon, which is 20 minutes from most places

Everytime I'm in font I always have a look at the estate agents in any of the towns I go to. It would be awesome to have a place over there wouldn't it.

I do know one of the Burnley lads moved over there, and is living the dream so to speak.

[Bonjoy]

Mate , iam looking! But its so expensive in the forest. Got a place i can always stay in Avon, which is 20 minutes from most places

Everytime I'm in font I always have a look at the estate agents in any of the towns I go to. It would be awesome to have a place over there wouldn't it.

I do know one of the Burnley lads moved over there, and is living the dream so to speak.

 Would that be Ledge (good climber name, Crimp would be even better)? Went to his 40th birthday party last time i was in Font. Nice chap, nice buffet, had some nice prunes wrapped in parma ham, mmmm.

[Mike_H]

Yes, only know him vaguely. Friend of a friend of a friend sort of thing.

[ian h]

just back from font. cheers for the top tip lads on surplomb de bivouac. absoloutly first rate.

[Kim]

just back from font. cheers for the top tip lads on surplomb de bivouac. absoloutly first rate.

nice one. you got any pics? any other hard sends?

counting the days til easter....  :D

[Adam Lincoln]

just back from font. cheers for the top tip lads on surplomb de bivouac. absoloutly first rate.

nice one. you got any pics? any other hard sends?

counting the days til easter....  :D

Iam counting the days till Wednesday ;-)

[Carnage]

Only two and bit weeks left for me too!  :D  :D  :D  :D

Roll on 27th March.....................

[dave]

exactly 31 days till we lay our gangta shit all over bleauside.

[a dense loner]

shit dave, are you goin sunbathin??  

[dave]

looks like it.  :

can always get up early before it gets hot or something. might work out better, last time i went for a week and climbed all day every day and by the final day i was destroyed, could barely lift my arms to hold a camera.

[tommytwotone]

Hearminow...a week and a day until twotone goes out to reprazent the posse. Booking at the last minute rules.

I know this thread is abotu hardcore cranking, but I forgot about 'L'angle Allain' at Cuvier Rampart...looks mint!

I was gonna do it last year but busted myself before i got a chance - anyone done it?

bleau.info says it's "5+", which in my experience of Font means:

"somewhere between V1 - V10, towards the easier end if you're rocking some 80s tennis shorts, some ancient PAs, pof n a doormat"

[Bubba]

bleau.info says it's "5+", which in my experience of Font means:

"somewhere between V1 - V10, towards the easier end if you're rocking some 80s tennis shorts, some ancient PAs, pof n a doormat"

[Carnage]

Went at the same time as you're going last year Dave.

Remember a day at Roche Aux Sabots when it was pushing 20 C with other days being plenty warm!!!

Didn't matter.  Early mornings were quality and all of us still clocked up a good amount of harder stuff.

Just remembered  as well the SOFTEST 7a tick ever. Forget Bizarre Bizarre etc......Clin D'Oeil at Aprement is the one.  :D

[tommytwotone]

Just remembered as well the SOFTEST 7a tick ever. Forget Bizarre Bizarre etc......Clin D'Oeil at Aprement is the one.

I really wanna get my first 7a in the bag this time round, and what's more I'm not proud about it being a soft touch...so far thinking Cortomalthese and Joker at Bas Cuvier are worth a look, I'll defo give the above a go.

Any other suggestions?

Notice that 'The Real Thing' gives that double dyno at Isatis 7a, reckon that's legit?

[ian h]

just back from font. cheers for the top tip lads on surplomb de bivouac. absoloutly first rate.

nice one. you got any pics? any other hard sends?

counting the days til easter....  :D

yeah have a couple of pics will try and put em on later. could not try a great deal of stuff as i had a hernia operation 1 month ago and should not really be climbing at all for at least another month.

the trip was the first time i have climbed since the op apart from a couple of very light wall sessions.

however i managed six 7a's.  although four of them i had already done on other previous visits. they included surplomb de biv, helicoptere, sylphide, lepreux direct, and also flashes of le couer and, jet set.

so was quite happy really.

[Carnage]

I wouldn't say the Joker was a soft touch!!!!

Cortomaltese, Bizarre Bizarre, Le Jet Du Toit Gauche , Rhume Folle,  Beetlejuice (Hueco thing next to Excaliber (god knows why its given 7a+)) and Clin D'Oeil are the softest imho.

[Scouse D]

that arete is Rhume folle which, as you and carnage both say, is very easy. Probably the most flashed 7a dans le foret.There's also a 7a aret at cuisinere next to the path which goes to duel. It's right piss I tell thee.

[Scouse D]

Le jeu du toit gauche at sabots is also pretty easy-as is jeu de toit itself-a bit burly but soft for 7b...

[dave]

I know this thread is abotu hardcore cranking, but I forgot about 'L'angle Allain' at Cuvier Rampart...looks mint!

I was gonna do it last year but busted myself before i got a chance - anyone done it?

bleau.info says it's "5+", which in my experience of Font means:

Its brilliant, probably about crescent arete difficulty, only not bold.

was rading cocktalk other days it turns out that Rhume folle is only 7a if you don't use the sloper out left that everyone heelshooks. if you useit its 6b apparently. which makes it even more humiliating that i failed on it.

Double Dyno at isatis is not a legitimate 7a, for 2 reasons. Firstly its 6c, and secondly its an overrated peice of piss. Not even a great problem really.

[Scouse D]

aye,angle allain is proper bo if not a bit short. Can be made more intersting one handed but that sort of misses the point a little!

[Carnage]

that arete is Rhume folle which, as you and carnage both say, is very easy. Probably the most flashed 7a dans le foret.There's also a 7a aret at cuisinere next to the path which goes to duel. It's right piss I tell thee.

I still cannot believe that that little arete at Cuisinere is 7a. I thought my mates were winding me up when they said what grade it was. I'll take the tick (thank you)  but its gotta be wrong. I mean, it feels about 6a at the most.

[Omega]

I wouldn't say the Joker was a soft touch!!!!

Cortomaltese, Bizarre Bizarre, Le Jet Du Toit Gauche , Rhume Folle,  Beetlejuice (Hueco thing next to Excaliber (god knows why its given 7a+)) and Clin D'Oeil are the softest imho.

i think there is some truth in this comment.  but a couple of the problems are subject to rules for the 7a tick.

Clin D'Oeil must be climbed on the left side of the arete for 7a.  This basically means getting the good slopey pocket with the left, right on the low crimper and dynoing for the top.  Of course, this is an eliminate becasue there are some good gratons up and right of the arete and a killer toe hook as well - but its only 6b with these 'extra' holds.

as for Beetlejuice, again there are rules.  first, you gotta start low and left then follow the good holds right to a couple of small slopey pockets, then without using any of the bloc to the right for your feet (ie. anything past the fissure that marks a change in angle) you have to follow the pinches and pockets to top out on the right prow.  seemed pretty solid at 7a+ for me this way, but a lot easier with a higher start and all feet on.