UKBouldering.com

10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font (Read 32321 times)

Scouse D

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1381
  • Karma: +73/-2
#50 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
February 19, 2004, 03:19:54 pm
don't get me wrong, I ain't done eclipse, but I've done most of it(to the crack anyroad) I i start at the two undercuts. The way to pull on is to believe that your hads will stick and jump your feet to head level-as soon as they hit the footholds the undercuts feel good...saying that it would make more sense to do as stu says and start as for arabesque....

Stu Littlefair

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1861
  • Karma: +288/-2
    • http://www.darkpeakimages.co.uk
#51 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
February 19, 2004, 03:36:46 pm
Jesus dave - that sounds suicidal! I'll stick with my own method, if it's all the same by you as I can't bear the thought of what would happen if your feet missed  :shock:

dave

  • Guest
#52 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
February 19, 2004, 03:38:36 pm
I recon a good (i.e. hands out of pockets) spot is pretty essential!

Scouse D

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1381
  • Karma: +73/-2
#53 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
February 19, 2004, 04:40:07 pm
Aye Stu-it fucking hurts if you get it wrong...tis truley stupid beta.

mark

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 576
  • Karma: +20/-0
#54 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
February 19, 2004, 06:53:31 pm
Quote from: "Adam Lincoln"
Everyone mentions Courtno maltise... Always thought it a bit of an eliminate. Once established you can use a hold out left which makes it easier. Though i reckon still 7a. Anyone know if this infact in?


I'm with you on this. Completely eliminate. Big hold out left that makes it considerably easier. Very good problem with the hold but not allowed on Cortomaltese, I reckon. Seems weird that an eliminate gets so much praise in the midst of endless non-eliminates.

Omega

Offline
  • **
  • player
  • Posts: 96
  • Karma: +3/-0
    • Powerband
#55 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
February 20, 2004, 10:42:32 am
Quote from: "Scouse D"
Aye Stu-it fucking hurts if you get it wrong...tis truley stupid beta.


here you go - some truly stupid beta in action:

http://www.powerband.cactusclimbing.co.nz/global/video/eclipse.htm

Adam Lincoln

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4981
  • Karma: +111/-30
    • Flickr Page, Vimeo Videos and Blog
#56 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
February 26, 2004, 09:16:10 am
Off to Font in 24 hours!!!  :clap:

(Sorry, just had to tell someone)  :roll:

Johnny Brown

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 11600
  • Karma: +724/-22
#57 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
February 26, 2004, 09:40:10 am
Quote
9) Power (7c), Rocher Canon
Does exactly what it says on the tin


Hmmmm, I favour a little peak technique. Get yer weight on yer foot and yer in. Good to see the strong struggle on it though :wink:

As for eclipse, I started like Scouse, though being a fair bit shorter, there was real positive thinking involved. Couldn't get into the crack though :(

Adam Lincoln

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4981
  • Karma: +111/-30
    • Flickr Page, Vimeo Videos and Blog
#58 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
February 26, 2004, 09:48:37 am
Quote from: "Johnny Brown"

As for eclipse, I started like Scouse, though being a fair bit shorter, there was real positive thinking involved. Couldn't get into the crack though :(


Hmm was going to have a play on this at the weekend, might not bother then now  :shock:

Adam Lincoln

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4981
  • Karma: +111/-30
    • Flickr Page, Vimeo Videos and Blog
#59 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
February 26, 2004, 09:43:31 pm
Just spoke to my mate in Fontainbleau. Its been dry for days, the grounds covered in snow and its below freezing  :lol:

Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
#60 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
February 26, 2004, 10:36:24 pm
BASTARD, BASTARD :guns:  :guns:  :guns:  :guns:

Adam Lincoln

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4981
  • Karma: +111/-30
    • Flickr Page, Vimeo Videos and Blog
#61 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
March 01, 2004, 10:34:41 am
Well, Font was mint! Both days cool, but with sun! Friciton was ace

Loads of stuff done, the best being Rubis Sur L'ongle which and i onsighted and L'ange naif. Hurt my finger on this though  :roll:

ps - congrat to Ru for doing his first 8a in the forest  :drink:

dave

  • Guest
#62 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
March 01, 2004, 10:36:01 am
any good photos?

Adam Lincoln

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4981
  • Karma: +111/-30
    • Flickr Page, Vimeo Videos and Blog
#63 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
March 01, 2004, 10:37:10 am
Quote from: "dave"
any good photos?


Yup, loads of good ones. Will put them up this evening as i couldnt be arsed bringing camera into work. Good pics of Rubis Sur L'ongle, L'ange naif, yogi and Sal Grosse

Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
#64 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
March 01, 2004, 11:33:57 am
Which 8a did Ru get done?

Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
#65 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
March 01, 2004, 11:42:07 am
Adam, you seem to have put a 7a down on yer scorecardythingy as 8a. :shock:

Adam Lincoln

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4981
  • Karma: +111/-30
    • Flickr Page, Vimeo Videos and Blog
#66 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
March 01, 2004, 11:50:12 am
Quote from: "Chris Doyle"
Adam, you seem to have put a 7a down on yer scorecardythingy as 8a. :shock:


Oops, yeah, Jet Set didnt really warrant 8a ;-)

Well spotted

As for the 8a Ru, did, cant remember the name

Blunk

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 414
  • Karma: +37/-0
#67 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
March 01, 2004, 04:03:14 pm
So what is the crux on Rubis sur L'Ongle? In the videos I have seen of it everyone aces it, with nary a wobble to indicate difficulty. The high right hand crimp looks small, if this is combined with shite feet things could get interesting quick.

Thanks--

Adam Lincoln

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4981
  • Karma: +111/-30
    • Flickr Page, Vimeo Videos and Blog
#68 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
March 01, 2004, 04:06:22 pm
Quote from: "Blunk"
So what is the crux on Rubis sur L'Ongle? In the videos I have seen of it everyone aces it, with nary a wobble to indicate difficulty. The high right hand crimp looks small, if this is combined with shite feet things could get interesting quick.

Thanks--


The final move to the good hold before the top i reckon. Though didnt think the whole thing was harder than V7

Mike_H

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 238
  • Karma: +0/-0
#69 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
March 01, 2004, 08:35:07 pm
Just got back from Font myself, conditions were even better this morning  Adam.

One of the lads out with us had a very good day today - he ticked L'Aerodynamite, L'abbe Resina, Carnage, Bouchiere (?) all before 12PM in time to get back to the Airport.  :shock:

Adam Lincoln

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4981
  • Karma: +111/-30
    • Flickr Page, Vimeo Videos and Blog
#70 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
March 02, 2004, 01:05:48 pm
Just booked flights for 4 days again in Font in 2 weeks :-) Not sure if skin will cope with Thursday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday  :roll:

Bubba

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 15367
  • Karma: +286/-6
#71 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
March 02, 2004, 01:07:04 pm
How much are you getting flights for at the moment?

Scouse D

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1381
  • Karma: +73/-2
#72 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
March 02, 2004, 01:07:06 pm
fooking hell Lincoln, are you psyched or something?!!!

Adam Lincoln

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4981
  • Karma: +111/-30
    • Flickr Page, Vimeo Videos and Blog
#73 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
March 02, 2004, 01:09:10 pm
Quote from: "Bubba"
How much are you getting flights for at the moment?


Just paid £44 quid return. Going Thursday morning early and coing back monday morning

From Luton

With Sleazyjet

Adam Lincoln

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4981
  • Karma: +111/-30
    • Flickr Page, Vimeo Videos and Blog
#74 10 Ten Must Do 7's In Font
March 02, 2004, 01:10:22 pm
Quote from: "Scouse D"
fooking hell Lincoln, are you psyched or something?!!!


Iam in love wiht the place. Been twice already this year, just booked the flights for that trip, AND iam going out the week before. Just for 3 days though  :wink:

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal