Quote from: T_B on March 14, 2011, 12:19:42 pmI'm not saying I think Comedy is 7b+Others are though. The only routes I can think of that really didn't 'sit' right would be metal guru and Tragedy (the latter of which has had a grade change?)
I'm not saying I think Comedy is 7b+
So what is the consensus for the Oak and Magnetic?
Quote from: ianv on March 14, 2011, 08:39:04 pmSo what is the consensus for the Oak and Magnetic? 8b for both.
Comedy, Frankie and 50 for 5 are correctly graded. In fact they're so obviously correctly graded, can't see the point in debating them.
Quote from: The Aaronator on March 14, 2011, 05:10:19 pmI think the route grade voting system on other channel is useful in this debate and to gives a fairly democratic view. (Now then, I have noted down the number of votes for contentious routes and will be watching for any signs of obvious rigging)Hmmm, any routes that you are thinking of in the above situation? Maybe one that has had its grade altered by a certain ex-teacher getting his class to downgrade a route for their homework...
I think the route grade voting system on other channel is useful in this debate and to gives a fairly democratic view. (Now then, I have noted down the number of votes for contentious routes and will be watching for any signs of obvious rigging)
Who say's a good story has to have any truth in it? I thought you thought it was 8a...
...(unless there is some magic new sequence that makes the hard move easier)
Quote from: ianv on March 14, 2011, 08:55:13 pm...(unless there is some magic new sequence that makes the hard move easier)There is actually, if your legs are bendy enough.
Quote from: Andy F on March 14, 2011, 09:52:43 pmWho say's a good story has to have any truth in it? I thought you thought it was 8a... Midledge 8a+ and not 8b.
Quote from: The Aaronator on March 14, 2011, 09:59:28 pmQuote from: ianv on March 14, 2011, 08:55:13 pm...(unless there is some magic new sequence that makes the hard move easier)There is actually, if your legs are bendy enough.You have to be so ridiculously flexible to do it that way that you might as well say 'there's an easier sequence if you're strong enough'.There is another sequence where people traverse left and don't use the crux pinch for the left hand.
Quote from: Norton Sharley on March 14, 2011, 02:45:40 pmQuote from: north_country_boy on March 14, 2011, 02:06:56 pmIs the crux of Baboo really Font 7A? (certainly never 7A+)No, but the start of New Dawn / Baboo is?Maybe if you are short. For average height, neither are harder than Font 6c.
Quote from: north_country_boy on March 14, 2011, 02:06:56 pmIs the crux of Baboo really Font 7A? (certainly never 7A+)No, but the start of New Dawn / Baboo is?
Is the crux of Baboo really Font 7A? (certainly never 7A+)
At least the knee bar's on-route for the weak .
At least the knee bar's on-route.
Quote from: Serpico on March 13, 2011, 10:13:03 pmBaboo should've been left as 7c+. I don't think Soft Option is blatantly over graded - I've only met one person who thought it was 7c+, it's pretty fair at middle of the grade 8a.GBH is bottom of the grade 8a+, but now it seems that people have started traversing into Baboo to miss out the first hard moves, so should it be downgraded? Baboo has a Font7A+ crux section 50 feet off the deck that is significantly harder than anything on Zoolook. It is 8a.You are exagerrating by characterising the line everyone takes on GBH as "traversing into Baboo" when all that is shared is one hold which on GBH is used as a gaston and on Baboo as a sidehold. Has anyone even repeated Mitchell's direct way of doing GBH which was given 8b in any case. As for the grade yes GBH may be a hard 8a or easy 8a+ but for me it is far harder than Zoolook though it may suit the modern climber better which is where the disagreements stem from. If Zoolook is given 8a+ it will be a national embarrasment.
Baboo should've been left as 7c+. I don't think Soft Option is blatantly over graded - I've only met one person who thought it was 7c+, it's pretty fair at middle of the grade 8a.GBH is bottom of the grade 8a+, but now it seems that people have started traversing into Baboo to miss out the first hard moves, so should it be downgraded?
And so is the drop knee on Magnetic. You end up with your right hand in the pocket pinch. How is that off route?
there might even be a way where they miss it out completely - I'm less sure of my facts on that one.
Quote from: The Aaronator on March 14, 2011, 10:41:46 pmAnd so is the drop knee on Magnetic. You end up with your right hand in the pocket pinch. How is that off route?I wasn't referring to the drop knee, there's another sequence where people traverse left so that they're using that pocket as a side pull with the right hand, there might even be a way where they miss it out completely - I'm less sure of my facts on that one.
Quote from: north_country_boy on March 14, 2011, 02:53:21 pmQuote from: Norton Sharley on March 14, 2011, 02:45:40 pmQuote from: north_country_boy on March 14, 2011, 02:06:56 pmIs the crux of Baboo really Font 7A? (certainly never 7A+)No, but the start of New Dawn / Baboo is?Maybe if you are short. For average height, neither are harder than Font 6c.