Why have you deleted half my post? This isn't UKC you know.
I have not done much at Malham, but I don't think Zoolook is 8a+. How can it be 8a+ when The Groove has twice as much hard climbing on it, with a crap rest in between?50 for 5 is harder than Comedy.
I'm not saying I think Comedy is 7b+, I think 50 for 5 is 7c. And 50 for 5 relies as much on bouldery power as Comedy does, even if the hard bit is at the top, rather than the bottom.
I'm not saying I think Comedy is 7b+
Belayed Aaron on this yesterday and he was making some mighty walrus noises... 8a
I first did most of these routes when I was fairly young and followed the logical progression through the grades, i.e. 50 for 5 before Comedy and found it a damn lot easier.
No, but the start of New Dawn / Baboo is?
Quote from: Probes on March 14, 2011, 10:57:01 amBelayed Aaron on this yesterday and he was making some mighty walrus noises... 8aIt felt like 8a and has lost of holds since I first did itNew Age T' - 7c+ (I did it on my second go, which is rare for 8as in this country)Zoolook - 8aComedy - 7c (I still remember how hard it felt when I first did it, and is comparable to 7c stuff I've done in France)Baboo Baboo - 7c+ (tough I know but you come straight out of a very good rest into the hard moves. Would the crux really be as hard as you say if you put those moves into a bouldering situation?)GBH - 8a+ (I climbed it direct when I first did it - still 8a+ and I re-climbed it a couple of years ago using the BB escape, easier but still 8a+ and still harder that Zoolook)50 for 5 - 7b+ (but top end. It has a fairly good rest before the top crux. I think Biological Need is a tad harder)Le Lapin - 7c+ (top end. I've never been comfortable with the higher grade - it just didn't feel right[!], hence the initial 7c+?8a grade)
Quote from: The Aaronator on March 14, 2011, 01:30:57 pmQuote from: Probes on March 14, 2011, 10:57:01 amIf Baboo is 7c+, so are MO and Todall Recall as its no easir/harder than those routes.I agree with you sort off Andy. I found baboo relatively easy, and was unaware of the 8a thoughts at the time. I honestly found it nearly on a par with new dawn! New dawn when tall is really awkward and draining at the roof and resting is impossible, whereas bb you can chill out as long as you like before launching into the top section, v5/6 but your fresh when you hit it. I wouldnt say bb is the same as todall, todall is pretty cruxy and you hit a proper 6c move after a bit of sustained climbing... 8a for sure.. and a step up from bb. Thats my lanky verdict.
Quote from: Probes on March 14, 2011, 10:57:01 amIf Baboo is 7c+, so are MO and Todall Recall as its no easir/harder than those routes.I agree with you sort off Andy. I found baboo relatively easy, and was unaware of the 8a thoughts at the time. I honestly found it nearly on a par with new dawn! New dawn when tall is really awkward and draining at the roof and resting is impossible, whereas bb you can chill out as long as you like before launching into the top section, v5/6 but your fresh when you hit it. I wouldnt say bb is the same as todall, todall is pretty cruxy and you hit a proper 6c move after a bit of sustained climbing... 8a for sure.. and a step up from bb. Thats my lanky verdict.
If Baboo is 7c+, so are MO and Todall Recall as its no easir/harder than those routes.I agree with you sort off Andy. I found baboo relatively easy, and was unaware of the 8a thoughts at the time. I honestly found it nearly on a par with new dawn! New dawn when tall is really awkward and draining at the roof and resting is impossible, whereas bb you can chill out as long as you like before launching into the top section, v5/6 but your fresh when you hit it. I wouldnt say bb is the same as todall, todall is pretty cruxy and you hit a proper 6c move after a bit of sustained climbing... 8a for sure.. and a step up from bb. Thats my lanky verdict.
I'd agree with New Age. Zoolook must be the absolute limit of 8aComedy is soft for 7c, just a bit burly. 7b+ IMHOIf Baboo is 7c+, so are MO and Todall Recall as its no easir/harder than those routes.50 for 5 is harder than Comedy.Le Lapin is worth 8a, much harder than other 7c+'s at the crag.
Quote from: Andy F on March 14, 2011, 03:36:22 pmI'd agree with New Age. Zoolook must be the absolute limit of 8aComedy is soft for 7c, just a bit burly. 7b+ IMHOIf Baboo is 7c+, so are MO and Todall Recall as its no easir/harder than those routes.50 for 5 is harder than Comedy.Le Lapin is worth 8a, much harder than other 7c+'s at the crag.This post can be shortened with lossless compression to "I am a thug with no stamina"
If Baboo is 7c+, so are MO and Todall Recall as its no easier/harder than those routes.I agree with you sort off Andy. I found baboo relatively easy, and was unaware of the 8a thoughts at the time. I honestly found it nearly on a par with new dawn! New dawn when tall is really awkward and draining at the roof and resting is impossible, whereas bb you can chill out as long as you like before launching into the top section, v5/6 but your fresh when you hit it. I wouldn't say bb is the same as todall, todall is pretty cruxy and you hit a proper 6c move after a bit of sustained climbing... 8a for sure.. and a step up from bb. Thats my lanky verdict.
Baboo is the hardest thing I've climbed - definitely significantly harder for me than Herbie and Mescalito which are the other 7c+s I've done at Malham but I guess they're probably considered soft touches. I'm tall but weak and found the crux properly hard despite the rest. Obviously I don't have enough experience to say whether that makes it 8a and interestingly enough I did the Ashes later that summer and can't say I found it much easier, though I find all the steep stuff at Kilnsey hard.On the BB vs Toadal side of things TimB would say Toadal, which he ticked quickly, was significantly easier. Of course this doesn't prove anything other than the fact that trying to put an exact number of a personal experience isn't possible. And maybe that if you want to be an '8a climber' a contentious soft tick doesn't really cut it
I think the route grade voting system on other channel is useful in this debate and to gives a fairly democratic view. (Now then, I have noted down the number of votes for contentious routes and will be watching for any signs of obvious rigging)
"I am a thug with no stamina"