[nai]

Aims

m - very hungover
t - still hungover
w - felt like I should do something but a single pullup was enough to convince me otherwise
t - went to do double bum but it was wet, had a look at two headed boy but too scared to make the mantle alone, shutdown by kidneystone again, had a few attempts at MRD but couldn't move once on the slopers.  Frozen to the bone so went home early.  Sulking.
f- better day, feeling stale I sought out some fresh problems and inspiration, at Birchen of all places.  Started off badly being completely sandbagged on Hornblower but after sussing it out things inproved with a few nice problems being completed.  Started a core workout in the evening but didn't finish it, about 150 reps.  Out for dinner & drinks.
s - 250 rep core workout
s nowt

Big week ahead, off on a road trip Thu-Mon, not sure where we're going or what we'll be doing yet, just hoping for some decent weather somewhere.

[duncan]

STG: Place gear before trip to Wadi Rum - fail...
MTG: E5, 7b

M - Shoulder stability stuff; 20 mins aerobic endurance
T - nothing
W - Shoulder stability stuff; 30 mins aerobic endurance
T - 30 mins 30 mins aerobic endurance
F - Shoulder stability stuff;
S - Dancing ledge quarry.  Red-pointed Mr Choo Choo; onsighed and laps on easier stuff. 
S - Shoulder stability stuff

Finger felt a bit tweaky at the start of the week, so just did gentle endurance work.  A minor YYFY as first 7a of the present come-back and first since 2005  .  Off to Jordan next week 

[Barratt]

Mom: nowt
Tues: meant to be doing easy routes, climbed crap and left early feeling Ill.
Wed: ill, day off work
Thurs: ill, day off work
Fri: ill, manage work then rest at night
Sat: CWIF. Beer.
Sund: still rough, get out on bike for a bit and a walk round dam in sunshine.

Really crap week, meant to be have a nice gentle week to be fresh for cwif but was fecking ill again. Still manage to have fun though, climbed crap but hey ho. Good effort to CW guys, watching the final on the computer was ace.

Hope for better week ahead.

[pyrosis]

STG: become consistant with non-climbing fitness practices: stretching, running, prehabilitation, antagonist exercise
MTG: v6 on both tuff and granite, boulder @ big bend, 2 desert towers, 5.11 crack climb
LTG (this year): high plains drifter (granite v7), morning dove white (tuff v7)

Mon: Good session at Sacred Boulders, warmups up to v3 then worked a v7 enduro problem, v4 power problem (failed on both)
Tue: a few hours of backcountry snowboarding, ~2000' vert
Wed: epic vb circuit at the happies, ~50 probs, mostly onsight and in tennies
Thu: Quick session at the buttermilk, several v0-v3 and one v5 repeat
Fri: worked 3p-9p
Sat: Circuit of twenty some odd v0-'s at the happys and one v5 repeat, worked 3p-3a

still haven't quit tobacco...

[i_a_coops]

Short term plans: another week off proper training due to work

M-F Sitting on my arse eating chocolate to stay awake, too much work.

S - fairly unenjoyable epic on a multipitch HVS in the Lakes. I am a total punter.

S - Langdale Boulders, total of 43 V-points up to alleged V8. Came less than a centimetre away from the top jug of a V9

[GCW]

Short term goals
Do my local cross country (5.8km) in under 30 minutes (big ask I think)
Tick something, anything, from my 2011 aims list!

Medium Term goals
Climb font 7c in 2011 (still a bit ambitious).
Continue trying to keep the weight down (aim for 83kg)- also a bit ambitious!
Do my Winter Hill run in under 43:12 (average 10kmh).
Finish off my remaining esoteric Lancs Quarry projects.




M-  Work, wine.
T-  Work, wine.
W-  Wilton One, failing on The Move and Thulsa Doom.  Frustrating.
T- Work, wine.
F-  Work, wine.
S-  Work, wine.
S-  Same as Wed, although fell off the finishing jug of Thulsa Doom so I was even more pissed off.

Monday weigh in of 86kg. 

[fried]

Goals 6A in the forest.

Monday - shoulder stuff
Tuesday - work
Wednesday - indoor session 1.5h bouldering, 1h weights/core
Thursday - shoulder stuff
Friday - indoor session 1.5h bouldering, 1h weights/core

Saturday - Fantastic day outdoors, did the Mountain orange (a little bit) at Cuisiniere (didn't want the missus getting cold!), played about on some reds, will come back later in the year, but too achy after two sessios already this week. Indoor climbing hasn't been using my topping out muscles, so even this circuit hurts a bit.

Sunday - Another fantastic day in the sun. Manage to gets the missus' family to go bouldering near Soissons (hottee du diable), mostly very low and easy, like Font before it was polished!, didn't even put my climbing shoes on, and let the mother in law use my mat to sunbathe on. If you're ever between Paris and Reims with screming kids in the car, this is the place, a bit like a mini 91.1.

Weight 75.6kg

[cheque]

STG: Route-fit ASAP. E1 and 6C on grit would be nice before it's too hot.
MTG: E1 on big cliffs this summer. E2 and 7A before end of year.
LTG: On-sighting long E4s before my planned 2013 USA trip.

M-F - Resting skin/ elbows/ achilles. Should probably have done some sort of training, but I'm really out of the habit of doing non-climbing training and stressed about possible job loss (found out on Friday I survived. YYFY!)
S - Indoor bouldering. Felt weak and didn't do any of my projects (although I did make progress on them).
S- Stanage. Stunning! Loads of soloing as less experienced mates led stuff. Highlight of the day was witnessing my mates' elation after leading High Neb Buttress. The impact of a winter's bouldering was felt when I attempted Surgeon's Saunter- I pissed every move but pumped out! See new STG.

[Luthor]

STG  - Stay psyched (going well so far), train hard, not get injured...
MTG  - F8a Sport route in 2011. Add to the fairly small list of font 7b bouldering ticks.


Mon     - busy
Tue     - Routes at The Edge
Wed     - Brief trip to Burbage after work
Thurs   - Rest
Fri     - Rest
Sat     - Bouldering at CWIF am, Beer pm.
Sun     - Rest

[shark]

Weight 11.6-8
Aims

M. REST (Poppy's birthday)
T.  REST. Belayed Poppy at the Edge. Ben flashed the red/yellow 7a on TR.
W. PM. DB/finger session. Eve. Bouldered on Wave then PE Circuits. OK but had hoped for better. 
T. Evening. Foundry. Felt tired climbed Did structured bouldering of hasrdish problems. Managed orange and black spots on steep bit. Faded at 5 th se t. so stopped.
F. Eve. Foundry. Evening. Did most of usual pink and yellows but got fed up of sticking to the structure so didnt. Tired but bagged green and black spots right and got stuck into green black spots on left side.
S. REST. YCS at Edge with boys. Tom and Ben both qualified for finals in 10-13age group     Eve Went to ShAFF
S. Malham. Warm and surprisingly dry. Did Consenting 5x and Fn'E twice. Had two dogging sessions on Baboo re-working the crux. As desperate as it ever was. Had a dogging go on Raindogs till powered out. Overall got spanked.

Stark reminder yesterday how crucial time on real rock to reacquaint with some of the subtleties of body positioning and movement at somewhere like Malham in particular.

Getting fed up with one of the structured bouldering sessions which I’m going to modify to maintain interest. Also the overall amount of time spent training is starting to get me down especially if conditions are going to be ok outside and I’m going to busy at work. Re-think required.

Ate cake every day

[Pebblespanker]

STG Font 7a, or as close as I can get to V6/Font 7a, by end 2011 (current best Font 6c+),
MTG English 6c in some shape or form by end 2012
LTG to have functional fingers post 50!

Mon 2 sets Frenchies on poor sloper on Metolius board - gentle as ring finger still tweaked
Tue Nowt
Weds   5 sets (7/3secs, 90deg lock x 6) Frenchies on sloper on Metolius board + Core session ab crunches (150), better form/technique on crunches meant I was beasted after 150 reps!! Aim now 210 in a sesh by end April
Thu nowt
Fri Rest/flying North to the fiances [place in Fife
Sat - Bouldering Glen Lednock (taking it steady due to tweaked finger) - 8 probs including a Font 6a, 6a+, 6b, 6b+ and a new problem up an grit stylee offwidth crack  , good day, dry weather, snow on the hills still! Finger OK but still around 50% - will rest this totally week, do ice therapy a la Dave Macleod and do strength push ups/Core instead and review at the w/e
Sun total slug in bed day    just what the doctor ordered!!

[andybfreeman]

Goals as before: 7C and 8a

M - rest

Tu - rest

W - Bolton complexes at home

Th - Great session@ TCA. Working the new off-circuit problems on the mothership. Flashed 3/4 of the women's final problems and did the 4th 3rd go. Couldn't touch the men's final problems beyond 2 move links! Did all the moves on 3 7's so plenty to work. Left with no skin (again )

F - light Bolton complexes followed by pizza and beer

Sa - CWIF qualifiers in the afternoon. Scored 119 so I wasn't last    I had a great day in terms of setting, atmosphere etc but I badly tweaked my left ring finger early on which held me back and means I now have the prosepct of a week or so of taking it very easy to avoid it getting worse.

Su - Stanage am - finger was hurting when i was still trying to warm up so sacked it after no more than half an hour. Watched finals of CWIF (inspiring stuff) before driving back to Briz.

Weight - consistently 69ish last week - way too heavy. I'm hoping that the week of fitness work I've planned (to give my finger some rest) should see things moving in the right direction again

[Falling Down]

Goals as before (7B(boulder), 7c (rp), 7b (os)  pyramids inc. trad equivalent)

M - Sore fingers from Sat and Sun so.. 10 min row then Barbell workout. 8x2 Snatch (30-40kg); 8x1 Power Clean (to 55kg); 5x3 Front Squat (60-80kg). Minor YYFY with a deep 80kg FS.
T - Travel/Long day
W - 2.5k row for time; 1-10-1 pullup ladder on BM; Tabata protocol OH thruster/push press with 8kg DB's (20secs work 10 secs rest for 4 mins).
T - Work then 
F - Nowt
S - Fustrating day driving around the NW with Galpinos in the rain (see Harmers thread) with New Mills Tors of all places saving the day. Had a good session ticking several of the up problems and working & ticking sections of the big traverse.  Got tired surprisingly quickly.  Triceps feeling sore from Wednesday.  Beer and Curry.
S - Tradding at Stanage.  First time tied into a rope in 2011.  Soloed some easier stuff & led three E1's (Gullibles, Easter Rib and Kirkus's) and encouraged Galpinos up Wuthering (best I've ever seen him climb).  A great day out and reminded me why climbing is so challenging and enjoyable.  Head was OK but I did a bit too much ledge based procrastination, still, first day out an all that.

Weight down to 12'3 - woop!

[tomtom]

STG 7C....
LTG 8A. Will this ever be possible? Whats the easiest 8A for lanky non campusy type punters?

M: work shizzle etc..
T: Afternoon trip to the Cliff with RobL... failed abysmally on the Keel (see Keel thread..) and had a play on Jess' roof while Rob tried it  - he finally nailed it last go of the day at about 6 when it was pretty dark! Victory chips for Rob, loser mushy peas for TT
W: resticles
T: more rest based moderate drinking activity
F: Long long afternoon session at the cliff.. More Keel failure shennanigans, a tickle on Stu's LH and got bloody close on Ste's wall.. (bastard problem!)
S: Rest and ales in the evening
S: hangover (I should NEVER drink Kronenberg. Devils spawn) pub lunch and wander around Alderley edge (alternative motive was scoping out sandstone there...)

As I type I'm aching from another dose of Keelfailureitus but am away for a week next week, so feel I should wear myself out knowing I'll have a long old rest soon...

[tommytwotone]

LTG: 7b by end of 2011
STG: all Cliff problems up to 6c+ in last Yorkshire bouldering guide

M: Pool session with workmates - lots of cheap beers and a late night
T: Felt surprisingly OK, trained in eve on board / BM and had a great session
W: Nowt
T: Depot session on new Yellow (V7 upwards) circuit - did a good few of the easier problems
F: Off to Sheff for the ShAFF
S: Weather crapped out, NNFN - watched some climbing films in the evening
S: Better weather YYFY, went to Froggatt after about half an hour got involved in rescue of a chap who'd landed on his head after falling off soloing...not nice. Watched some running films in the evening.

[205Chris]

STG: Grit highballing then Siurana at Easter.
MTG: Sport 8a this summer

M: Routes at the edge. Managed to onsite a couple of things in the 6c/7a range but faded quickly.
T: Horrible cold flu thing
W: Day two of horrible cold flu thing
T: Day three.... Managed an hours bouldering on garage board
F: Day four..... Went to the works for a couple of hours. Probably a bad idea while still ill.
S: Day 5.....Still ill and no energy
S: Day 6.....As Saturday

Crap week really. Still don't feel 100%. Annoyed not to get out yesterday as the weather looked good. Need to shake this illness off and get back with the training programme. About 6 weeks left till I go to Siurana. Lots of route fitness to make up.

[webbo]

Mon.Rockcity really struggling couldn't hold any body tension probably tired from yesterdays weights.
Tue.Nothing.
Wed.Rockcity better session managed to repeat most stuff including a problem i'd only done once.
Thu.Weights.
Fri.Bike 11/2 hours.
Sat.Leeds wall.Going quite well did about 30 problems.
Sun.Bike 3hrs 16mins.Dumb bell weight session.First time I've done weights after cycling suprised how well it went.
Now off work for a week.Plan is to try and get some fitness back.

[tomtom]

S: Better weather YYFY, went to Froggatt after about half an hour got involved in rescue of a chap who'd landed on his head after falling off soloing...not nice. Watched some running films in the evening.

Ouch - was he alright?

[tommytwotone]

S: Better weather YYFY, went to Froggatt after about half an hour got involved in rescue of a chap who'd landed on his head after falling off soloing...not nice. Watched some running films in the evening.

Ouch - was he alright?

In the end, I gather he was - there's a thread on the other channel about it. Was pretty nasty, lots of blood and the chap was fitting when I arrived.

I was one of first on the scene so ended up running down the hill to meet the paramedic (who'd been sent to The Chequer's), and then back up again (whilst carrying his defibrillator). Full marks to Paramedic / MRT / air ambulance for speedy response, could well have saved the guy's life.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals: F7b+ in a session, F7c/+ by the end of the summer, F8a before I get old and fat... Oh and more 7B's and a 7B+ of note.

M: Rest after a hard weekend
T: 4x4's at the Edge - Good session, over-cooked it a little but nothing too bad..
W: Beastmaker session - Neds plan twice... Felt tired but just about managed it.
T: AnCap @ The Works - Too busy on the circuit board so made up some 15ish move problems, then got on my 7b (which is blatantly 7c) "project" and did OK.
F: Rest
S: AnCap @ The Works - Picked the best weekend day ever to train! Pissing down all day but as the CWIF was on it meant that there was just me on the circuit board, bliss! Managed all me timings and crushed the 15 moves of me "project" circuit every go YYFY!
S: Saw some kiddie adventure films with the boy, went to Rubicon for a family walk\limestone recce (it's dry I tell you!). Pub dinner, CWIF finals (Jernej's a beast ), 1 hour AeroCap on my board - Trashed!!   

Another hard week. Really pleased with how it's going.. Can feel it doing me good (well I ache lots!).. Got an easy week this one so gonna eat, sleep, generally chill and do some AeroCap stuff.. Nice!

[aly]

An alright week for me with 4 days on real rock which made a nice change.  Decided to slightly adjust my goals (may be too ambitious but hey ho) a bit as the finger is slowly getting back to some kind of normality, as long as I only use it on gentle open-handed stuff really.

STG: one-armer and front lever.  Front lever is getting closer due to the core stuff I've been doing, have ignored the one-armer for the last few weeks so no progress there.
MTG (by the summer): 7B and/or 7c
LTG (in 2011): 7C and/or 8a (preferably both)
LLTG (by end of 2012): 8b (if you're going to aim it might as well be high)

Mon: Bouldering at eatswood.  Traverse still feeling nails impossible on the hard bit but made progress on the first few moves and managed to sort out the end section so progress at least.
Tues: FB repeaters (6/5/4 for 7on/3off with 1 min rest for 7 grip types) and intervals sprint session in the park.  Quick core session on the bar after.
Weds: Session at the wall in Derby, mainly doing routes and a bit of bouldering.  Quite a high volume session which was good.  Quick core session when I got home.
Thurs: Campus session at Stoke wall.  A good session in that I felt beasted but elbows a bit twingy after 5 days on.
Fri: Snuck an evening session in at Burbage.  Some soloing a bit of bouldering.  Repeated The Nose in just a few goes which was nice as it took me 3 sessions last year.
Sat: Got lucky with the weather and went to Crookrise.  Mileage session polishing off lots of things I'd never done, managed a (sylishly bad) ascent of Ron's Crack II which was a giggle.
Sun: Malham, warm up and then tried the 7c by Yosemite wall.  Got the sneaky beta and managed it in two halves 3rd go, might need some more beans for the full link though.

[aly]

Simon, what kind of structured bouldering sessions are you doing if you don't mind me asking?  Are you getting demotivated with them as you have a structure for the whole session which gets tedious (just wondering as I had that a while ago)?  I was just wondering if you could have an aim to complete x reps of say three different circuits with timed rests every session, but it only takes say 45 minutes and then you can do the fun bit (i.e. just playing about) for the rest of the session?  You also have a finish point to aim for, after which the session gets more fun.  Don't know if that would help solve the problem at all, just tell me to shut up if it won't! 
Alastair

[Muenchener]

STG: Power Endurance Phase of Winter Training Plan.
   Redpoint 6b+ (probably indoors) before Easter
        200 practice falls before Easter. Current score: 22
   275 points in next boulderwelt comp on 19th March
MTG: Mittlere Weisse Wand, Konstein. 6b os in Arco at Easter
LTG: 7a rp; classic big Vs / VIs at local crags (Kaisergebirge, Wetterstein etc.) e.g. West Face Totenkirchl

A reasonably active week in a general sense, though only one wall session.

M:
T: Bodyweight stuff: mobility, shoulders & core (incl. janda sit-ups ), tabata bw squats & lunges
W: Wall, Thalkirchen. Routes, A little shaky after nothing but bouldering for several weeks; nevertheless a decent mileage session.
T: 
F: bike to work, 26km
S: Half term: family holiday. Hillwalk, Grätlspitz
S: Snowboarding, Alpbach

[shark]

Simon, what kind of structured bouldering sessions are you doing if you don't mind me asking?  Are you getting demotivated with them as you have a structure for the whole session which gets tedious (just wondering as I had that a while ago)?  I was just wondering if you could have an aim to complete x reps of say three different circuits with timed rests every session, but it only takes say 45 minutes and then you can do the fun bit (i.e. just playing about) for the rest of the session?  You also have a finish point to aim for, after which the session gets more fun.  Don't know if that would help solve the problem at all, just tell me to shut up if it won't! 
Alastair

Hi Aly. Cheers for the suggestion. There are 2 structured sessions at the moment I'm meant to do. A 30 problem session with 1 attempt at 10 easy 10 med and 10 hard problems. I do the easy problems back-to-back and the others with 3 mins rest. The other is 3 attempts at 6 hard problems with 3 mins rest between goes and 10 mins rest between sets. Thing is I like the variety of getting stuck into working harder problems rather than serial repeats of ones I've done before. To try the hardest ones I have to be reasonably fresh so tagging it on the end wouldnt work. I'm gravitating to try working a couple of hard problem at the start then do the set session and of course once I've got them dialled I can incorporate them into the routine. 

[205Chris]

To up the overall amount of volume / climbing I'm doing I find myself regularly repeating circuits at the Works. To alleviate boredom of repeatedly climbing the same problems I try one of two things. Either focus on finding an easier / more efficient sequence using the same holds or work out which holds I can eliminate and still climb the problem.