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About the chipping of Dreamtime (Read 11296 times)

a dense loner

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#25 About the chipping of Dreamtime
March 16, 2004, 09:38:04 am
hasn't E57 17a/b bin done at froggatt??
agree wi dave, most stupid thing i've ever heard. would work well in perfect world, but so would communism.
it's not just at top level would say it's worse lower down. just not as interesting to slag someone off after doin 7c+ n really it's only 7b+. far better to downgrade an 8b to 8a+ then everyone thinks the first ascentionist is a dick who overgrades. when in reality hes only a grade out, n wot happens if the second ascentionist has got 5 inches reach over the other guy, this is soon forgotten n cud have been the difference between success n failure.
sorry, i hate tall people  :twisted:  arrrgh!

dave

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#26 About the chipping of Dreamtime
March 16, 2004, 09:42:20 am
Quote from: "a dense loner"
hasn't E57 17a/b bin done at froggatt??


spied a new "line" for AB on the weekend: do Monks life, then drive to back bowden and do Transendence - for the County's first E12 7c (7b really, 7c to onsight) called "Too Tanned To Be Banned".

chappers

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#27 About the chipping of Dreamtime
March 16, 2004, 10:39:34 am
Quote from: "Huffy"

 We found and cleaned a new hold on an 8a which made it 7b+...we didn't chip or use wire brushes, jus used an old faithful oral b plaque remover!

What do you think :?:

Huffy


this is off 8a.nu:
we are still wondering why they think they need to find more holds or bigger holds- maybe just to say the have done a certain grade or a famous boulder problem? To say it's easier? They will never know it if they don't try it with the original holds anyway.

totally agree with huffy, surely if all of the holds were not used on the first ascent then the problem is just an eliminate.
peeps will always find new ways to do problems, new sequences that will appear to make problems easier.
hows about mr smith/ dunning dont get so much bad press from some others (not people on this site) to detract from their massive achievements. People were slagging dunning off on planet fear so bad that the thread had to be pulled., kids he teaches were giving him hassle at school. harsh.
well done boys!

curly ben

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#28 About the chipping of Dreamtime
March 16, 2004, 02:09:37 pm
Yep take your point Mr ultra G,
 i guess what i was getting at is that maybe first ascentionists should be given a little respect grading wise. Just watched the video of Malcom on dreamtime-immense stuff he seemed to walk it! soo how does he decide if he was climbing super strong that day and he can climb v15 or its not that grade? I am certainly not trying to be inflammatory towards Mr Smith- i think its quality we have someone climbing loads of hard problems, im just interested how the whole grade game works at that level.
With regards the chipping  i havent read anything either jst numerous forums seem to have it bubbling under the surface with out actually saying it, if that makes any sense? I cant imagine why someone would chip a problem then film themselves climbing it . doesn,t make sense-

 

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