[haydn jones]

So i just built a frame in my room which looks like this http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk249/wlesh/IMG_20110228_021600.jpg?t=1298859957
http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk249/wlesh/IMG_20110228_021650.jpg?t=1298859930
the 4 holds either side of the rung are able to be changed and tilted at different angles, the 2 farthest on either side are slightly sloping though it looks like there jugs from this angle, they can be spun upside down for more extreme slopers.
the 2 inner green holds i am currently using for pinch strength training, and i can keep increasing the angle to be more vertical making me pinch harder. they can also be turned horizontally for a really nice open handed hold.
the rung in the middle, just look at the photo to see how thick it is.
there's enough room for me to do L sits ect while hanging 
so i can pull out 13 pull ups on just a pull up bar, on the slopping holds on either side i can do 10 on the pinch i can do 8 and on the crimp bar i can currently do 6.

I was wondering if anyone could just give me a few tips with training specifically with this, this can also include before hand warm ups e.g sit ups ect to get the blood pumping ect.

aims are generally improve core strength and finger strength, and improvement in arm strength would be nice too, but i think my finger strength is what's holding me back most at the moment.

also how long to wait in-between training sessions (rest days) although i know this will be different for everyone and how intense a training session was.

I currently boulder at max 6c have been climbing for 4 months

if you need additional info to help me work out a training regime then please do prod and probe me.

cheers

Haydn

[Krank]

swomeones nicked your beastmaker and replaced it with a campus rung, i would not be happy.

[slackline]

Why not have more ply an increase the scope for rungs/holds?

[haydn jones]

1 are beast makers that good?
I already have smallest crimp that i wish to have, any smaller and i think i'll start damaging my fingers, though once my finger strength improves i may consider getting another smaller campus rung.
i have good sloppers to use and a pinch which can be adjusted to any angle i wish
2 what will having a higher scope of rungs/holds do?

[slackline]

2 what will having a higher scope of rungs/holds do?

Greater variety of holds and no need to waste time faffing around changing them as you currently are.  Put another rung on and you can campus between them.

[chris05]

I was wondering if anyone could just give me a few tips with training specifically with this, this can also include before hand warm ups e.g sit ups ect to get the blood pumping ect.

aims are generally improve core strength and finger strength, and improvement in arm strength would be nice too, but i think my finger strength is what's holding me back most at the moment.

also how long to wait in-between training sessions (rest days) although i know this will be different for everyone and how intense a training session was.

For training info see:
http://www.beastmaker.co.uk/training%20page2.htm
http://www.climbingworks.com/the-beta/training/
http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/training_giude.html

There are also loads of training related threads on ukb if you use the search function.

 and also read Dave Mac's book:
http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/9outof10climbers.html

Doesn't matter if you don't have the same fingerboards etc, the exercises recommended can still be done. I do really rate the beastmaker but haven't tried any other boards.

[haydn jones]

cheers chris.
will plough through all these tonight, i also have a friend with the 9 out of 10 book, i will steal it off him.

[Krank]

1 are beast makers that good?

yes, there mega. You can get by without one but they are so lovely that if you can afford it, get one, you wont regret it.

[haydn jones]

to adding weight when training, anyone got any good household items that can be strapped to you to add weight?   or does everyone just buy weights?

[slackline]

to adding weight when training, anyone got any good household items that can be strapped to you to add weight?   or does everyone just buy weights?

More seriously if you've a trad rack & harness, put them on.

[haydn jones]

haha genius slack line i do have a trad rack, will do that cheers anyway off to eat some pie's now nomnomnom

[Serpico]

 but i think my finger strength is what's holding me back most at the moment.

If I had a million quid for every time someone said that I'd be rich.

 

I have been climbing for 4 months

i can pull out 13 pull ups on just a pull up bar, on the slopping holds on either side i can do 10 on the pinch i can do 8 and on the crimp bar i can currently do 6.

You can keep up the deadhanging and pullups, but finger (or upper body) strength is definitely not holding you back.

[Fultonius]

I currently boulder at max 6c have been climbing for 4 months

if you need additional info to help me work out a training regime then please do prod and probe me.

cheers

Haydn

Good progress-  obviously you're keen, have natural talent and psyched for training.

A word of warning from an oldish, wise(ish - debatable) and previously multiply-injured punter.  At this stage in your climbing the biggest gains will be made by learning good technique. in the process of doing this,  you will get stronger.

Muscles get stronger much quicker than tendons. "Training" hard early in your climbing life will make you improve quickly, all the way up until your tendons go PING!

How much access do you have to indoor walls/outdoor bouldering?  If you have access, and time, try and spend 75% of you time actually climbing. Watch good climbers, do what they do. Don't stress about not improving quickly - slow and steady saves frustrating injury downtime.

Also - adding weight - this is not really required till you can boulder 7C. ( this is an indisputable FACT  )

[haydn jones]

fair enough, noted about the weights unfortunately the closest climbing wall to me is "the barn" and its a 45minuet drive away, i get up there maybe once a week atm, sometimes twice. also when the weather is good, i'll go bouldering outdoors...but being the uk the weather tends to _always_ be crap

[joeisidle]

1 are beast makers that good?

yes, there mega. You can get by without one but they are so lovely that if you can afford it, get one, you wont regret it.

Another vote for the Beastmaker here as well, especially the 1000 series. From the looks of your set up warming up gently might be quite hard (or at least I'd find it hard) but with the 1000 you'll get lots of hold sizes from juggy slots to ease your fingers in, whilst still having the 35 degree slopers and rounded 10mm crimps to push yourself on. Also I personally find that the well rounded beastmaker crimps, even if they are smaller, are a bit more finger friendly than the metolius rung when it's mounted vertically as the incut edge on the metolius feels like it puts more pressure on my tendons even though it's a bigger hold.     

[Krank]

you should go to The Barn more often, 45 mins isnt very far away and it will be much more usefull than training at home, unless you build a board. Thinking about it, sell your living room furniture and build a nice 45, you then have the best of both worlds.

[haydn jones]

so i came up with the basis of a training session, i start off with
15 minuet warm up
back 3 fingers -7 on 3 off
3 minuet rest
front 3 fingers -7 on 3 off
3 min rest
all 4 fingers     -7 on 3 off
10 min rest
repeate another 2 times.
while "on" i will be locking off at different intervals (full 90 strait full 90 strait)
if i find this is to easy i will drop a finger on one hand at a time i.e back 3 fingers on left middle 2 fingers on right.
another thing to increase intensity is decrease rest time from 3 minuets to 2 minuets.

that comes to a total of 81 minuets of training if i time it correctly.

anyone got any thoughts on this. too long too short ect?

[sidewinder]

anyone got any thoughts on this. too long too short ect?

I would avoid so many minuets, probably a little too relaxing to keep the psyche up, try a bit of Rachmaninoff, his powerful rhythmic tunes and huge hands surely make him the climbers choice for interval training.

[highrepute]

anyone got any thoughts on this. too long too short ect?

I would avoid so many minuets, probably a little too relaxing to keep the psyche up, try a bit of Rachmaninoff, his powerful rhythmic tunes and huge hands surely make him the climbers choice for interval training.

genuine lol. 

Seriously, looks like a good training session to me. assume you do the 7on3off for one minute.

but I can only re-iterate what others have said. 4 months climbing isn't very long and if you push it too much too soon you'll serious fuck your tendons. Take it easy for the first few sessions. If you experience any pain then stop, don't kid yourself that'll be alright, stop.

[haydn jones]

Seriously, looks like a good training session to me. assume you do the 7on3off for one minute.

but I can only re-iterate what others have said. 4 months climbing isn't very long and if you push it too much too soon you'll serious fuck your tendons. Take it easy for the first few sessions. If you experience any pain then stop, don't kid yourself that'll be alright, stop.

1 minuet is right
so far im yet to even twinge a tendon, sometimes my fingers ache for a minuet or two after doing powerful (well powerful to me) crimps, but i assume that is normal and they do feel strained whilst doing sets to a degree, but then if don't push them then thew won't get strong?
(I guess this is the hard part about training to the max)
so yea, im not sure what to look for pain wise, i would hope i notice before hurt them, after doing a set i'll prod and squeeze around the tendon area's to see if any of them sore or theres any sharp pain, but there never has been.

[Pebblespanker]

Try using 5l water bottles for weight assisted work with a pulley set up if you can set one up, the bottle provide an easily changeable weight system and since water weighs 1kg/litre its easy to adjust without scales, use a measuring jug - just mark the bottles with marker pen for 4.5l, 4l etc

One word of caution if you use them, whilst they are kinder to flooring than metal disc weights don't drop them onto the floor as they can burst, bit tricky if you are in a 1st floor room, annoys the neighbours and can make the electrics crackle and fizz ...

[rodma]

anyone got any thoughts on this. too long too short ect?

I would avoid so many minuets, probably a little too relaxing to keep the psyche up, try a bit of Rachmaninoff, his powerful rhythmic tunes and huge hands surely make him the climbers choice for interval training.

There appears to be conflicting evidence regarding minuets, at least one source states  "If you Minuetto Allegretto
You will live to be old" 

[tunaficiency]

a climbing wall thats 45 minuets away is a" hell "of a drive. I was told that you shouldn't
fingerboard in the first 6 months of climbing mainly because of the elbows so if you feel any twinges in that region stop imediately. Good effort getting to 6c in 4 months

[Paul B]

I currently boulder at max 6c have been climbing for 4 months

I'd echo what others have said; avoid the path you're on like the plague. Sure, they lead to short term gains and rapid improvement but you'll find that you develop into quite an inefficient climber without spending a LOTs of time learning the subtleties of movement. This is much easier to do when the strength to overpower a move just doesn't exist rather than having to retro learn it at a later stage in life.

[Krank]

a climbing wall thats 45 minuets away is a" hell "of a drive

Its not really though is it, Fonts a hell of a drive, 45 mins isnt very far at all.

[nik at work]

It really depends, 45 minutes is too far if your kids don't go to bed until 8:00 and the wall closes at 10:00.

[Krank]

Fair enough, with nippers it might be a pain but 45 mins isnt a big drive if you dont have other things to do.

[haydn jones]

45  minuets is a hell of a drive when i don't have a car, and busses don't run there. thats why the finger board though the weather is picking up at last and not so much rain, so more outdoor sessions for me i think.

[Krank]

 

[slackline]

Bikes are quicker 

[Krank]

 

[haydn jones]

trust me its too far to cycle, i've cycled a few times to the dewerstone, and that took me 1 1/2 hours the barn is about 3 times further

[Krank]

you would be amazed what can happen when you cycle to the crag

[Jaspersharpe]

Y cuando usted se levanta realmente temprano.

[underground]

....no hay límite a la trituración se puede lograr

Haydn, if I were you I'd keep on, but keep a close watch on those possible tweaks... just keep thinking about how to get on rock. Which might involve joining the local club.... just to get the lift of course 

[haydn jones]

honestly don't think i can climb any more than is possible, i get to the climbing gym 1-2 times per week, i have joined plymouth uni climbing club, i go bouldering 1-2 a week and usually go trad climbing once a week, the training board is really there for those wet days.

[underground]

So what's with all the bollocks about it being too far for you to drive to the wall, etcetera?

[haydn jones]

Its more I have to rely on other people to drive and I've been extremly lucky so faqr to be able to get out as much as I have.

[underground]

Well you either can or you can't get to the crag, PaulB's advice is still sound.

[tunaficiency]

a drive where you could play 45 minuets back to back, say 5 mins each 45 * 5 equals
close to a 4 hour drive, i'd say thats quite long.

[shark]

I think haydn jones has been unduly taken to task here.

1/2 times a week to an indoor wall which is a 1.5hr round trip away and a day outside and the rest home training seems a not unreasonable dedication to the cause - it is probably what I would do in his shoes. 

[underground]

I think haydn jones has been unduly taken to task here.

1/2 times a week to an indoor wall which is a 1.5hr round trip away and a day outside and the rest home training seems a not unreasonable dedication to the cause - it is probably what I would do in his shoes.

I think that my contribution was a bit uncalled for certainly, and arose due to being a bit confused, but I'd have never responded in that way face to face.

Sorry, folks- especially Haydn jones.