[shark]

Weight 11.5-7
Aims

M. Evening. New probs on Wave felt good on the couple I tried but didnt tarry too long. Lockyer demoed his easiest (7a!!) link-up on 40 deg board and had 3 goes at that. Then did an excellent 3x4 on the usual linkup.
T. Eve. Edge. Ace 4x4 session
W. 
T. AM Body comp check up. PM Rushed DB and fingerboard session. Evening. Did Double laps of the 40 move easyish circuit as a 4x4 with 60secs rest between 'reps' and 5 mins rest between laps = 640moves
F. Eve. Foundry. With boys. Routes. Inc dogging session on white 7c and pink 7c+ on steep bit
S. PM. Unpsyched. But got it together after a while. Bouldering session 3 repeats/attempts of 6 (hard-for-me) problems.
S. PM. Foundry. Knackered. 30 problems/attempts. Nearly gave up several times. Felt wrecked not in a good way. Felt ill and nauseous. Got home and went to bed

A week of ups and downs. Currently on a downer. I've dug myself into a hole. Two rest days required.

[205Chris]

STG: Grit highballing
MTG: Sport 8a

M: Max deadhangs and easy circuits at the works
T: Campus session at the works then 12 routes at the Edge.
W: 2 hours at the works on circuit problems
T: Short of time but managed some foot on campussing power endurance work at home
F: Felt tired so just did some core work
S: Millstone / Higgar bouldering. Did the shothole version of L'Angle Parfait which is awesome but feels very highball when you jump off!!
S: Hoped to get out but the weather had other ideas so wound up at the works for 2 hours.

Another good week training wise but disappointed not to be getting out on the grit more. Still hoping to tick off a few more highballs.

[aly]

MTG: one armer, front lever, fixed finger
LTG: 7C and 8a

Not a bad week despite the cold as I seem to be getting a bit stronger, but I've hurt one of my good fingers which is a royal pain in the ass, so will have to keep it fairly easy for a week or so.

Mon: Repeaters session (getting better at them 6/5/4 for 7 grip types) and a core session.
Tues: Intervals running session and core workout
Weds: Routes and bouldering down the wall, routes feel hard and tweaky, bouldering is feeling alright.
Thurs: Fairly monster session at Stoke wall on the 45.  Managing problems I'd assumed I'd not do for ages with my finger so that was good.  Felt beasted afterwards
Fri: Churnet wet so ended up at Stoke again, short session as I was still knackered from thurs.
Sat: cold and tired, went for a moorland walk
Sun: Malham.  Had a good session doing lots of quick redpoints (dog up once then RP) and it was surprisingly kind on the finger.

This week, need to try some campus work but also balance the fingers, so might find some sloper campus boards, or have to go up to the works to use their juggy one.  Also need to shake off the cold and get a session or two outside.

[Luthor]

STG  - Stay psyched (going well so far), train hard, not get injured...
MTG  - F8a Sport route in 2011. Add to the fairly small list of font 7b bouldering ticks.


Mon     - lunchtime circuit session at works
Tue     - busy / rest
Wed     - busy / rest
Thurs   - lunchtime circuits at works, good sess - dropped recovery time down to 6 min between reps of brown circuit
Fri     - nothing
Sat     - Went to look at Masson lees quarry. Looks like some quality routes there, tho very little currently dry. Got up a couple of easy (and dryish) routes.
Sun     - Bouldering at Works

Managed to get a couple of training sessions in despite busy week. Nice to reccy a new venue (looking fwd to going back when its dry) and good to ease into climbing routes on rock again.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals:   As usual..

M: Neds fingerboard workout x 2 - Was marginally worse than last week but had done a fair bit the day before so not too bothered.
T: 4x4's @ The Edge with Tommy - Supposed to be having a week off AeroCap but playing catch up so took it easy, more steep ground.. Feeling fitter!
W: Rest
T: AnCap @ The Works - 4 x 15 moves on the circuit board with 3 mins rest 3 times - Hard.
F: Rest
S: AnCap @ The Works - as above - Making progress as Thursday's problem felt easier.
S: 6 x 10 Isolated hard moves @ The Works - Some moves felt easier than the last time I did this, some still utterly desperate.... I'm still shit at half levers!

Good week - Did the lot! Think I could have planned the sessions better but overall I feel like I worked hard and am seeing a little progress.

This week: Keep with the programme and start the weights that I've been putting off!

:D

[duncan]

STG: place a cam or wire before Wadi Rum trip in 10 days time.

MTG: E5/7b

M- Shoulder stability stuff
T- 4x4s.  Got the dosage about right and felt well-done the following day.
W- nothing
T- Arch bouldering.  A bit tweaky after this.
F-30 mins gentle aerobic endurance stuff. 
S- nothing
S- mostly sat under T-crack brewing tea.  A few pathetically easy problems dispatched between showers.  Not a great return for 6 hours of travel and numerous brownie-points cashed in...

[Fultonius]

Goals not changed.

Weight: 78Kg - seem to have regained the 0.5kg lost, but the old "pinch test" is encouraging - might have lost bodyfat but gained some muscle?

M: 12hr work
T:  12hr work, Gym PM (5 min run warm up, 15mins more running at 11-15km/h) 2km row, pull ups (3 x 10 fast), dips (3 x 6~7 WEAK), leg raises (3 x 10 x 4kg).
W:  12hr work
T:   12hr work
F:  12hr work
S:  12hr work(in office) Gym PM - 15 min bike warm up. Front Squats (Pyramid, 12 x ~18kg, 8 x 35kg, 5 x 50kg, 8 x 35kg) Power Snatch ( 12 x 12kg, 8 x 35kg, 7 x 35kg)  leg raises (3 x 10 x 4kg), dips & pullups. 
 Hamstrings/Groins totally fried after this (Adductor Magnus maybe?) Can still barely walk today!
S: 12hr work(in office) Swim PM, 50 minutes. 70% breast, 30% front crawl. Some front crawl speedwork and technique drills. Can definitely feel an improvement in my front crawl stamina.

3 more days - can't wait to get home and go climbing!

[fried]

Goals - same as always 6A in the forest

Monday - Shoulder stuff, trying some new stuff to sort out my dreadful posture.
Tuesday - Achey indoor session 2h + 1h weights

Wednesday - Finally go to doc. with my X-rays etc (taken in March). Cunt even tells me that if it hurts climbing twice a week then just to climb once. He does give me my referral though, which was all I wanted. Shoulder routine as per Monday.

Thursday - Repeat Monday.

Friday - First session with Oesteopath, he seems to think that all my shoulder/ elbow problems are due to 'blockages' in across the top of my back/neck and diaphragm. No mention of tendonitus/ rotator cuff tears or anything like that. I'll give him a few session to see how it goes. Shoulder stuff.

Saturday - Shoulder routine
Sunday - Indoor session 1.5h + 1h weights, plus shoulder stuff.

Weight 75.6kg

Weather looks to be improving after a dismal February. I feel spring a comin'.

[GCW]

Short term goals
Do my local cross country (5.8km) in under 30 minutes (big ask I think)
Sort out the bad knee.
Tick something, anything, from my 2011 aims list!

Medium Term goals
Climb font 7c in 2011 (still a bit ambitious).
Continue trying to keep the weight down (aim for 83kg)- also a bit ambitious!
Do my Winter Hill run in under 43:12 (average 10kmh).
Finish off my remaining esoteric Lancs Quarry projects.




M-  Nothing.
T-  West View with the Psyche twins.  Managed a few things I didn't do last time, so not too bad
W-  Nothing.
T- Nothing.
F-  An hour at a damp Buckstone, getting annoyed by the Dyno.  Chopped a lump out of the end of a finger cooking tea, so no bouldering for a week or so- arse.
S-  Moaned about finger.
S-  More moaning.

Monday weigh in of 87kg. 

[chris05]

STG: more 7A's
MTG: 7A+/7B in 2011

M: core (500 + superman planks), theraband & eccentric curls
T: 4.5m run, core (500), press-ups, pull-ups, BM (3x30 moves foot on, max hangs), theraband & eccentric curls (am+pm)
W: core (500), theraband & eccentric curls (am+pm)
T: bouldering at Notts wall, theraband & eccentric curls (am+pm)
F: eccentric curls (am+pm)
S: theraband & eccentric curls (am+pm)
S: 6x DB complexes, 6m run, core (500), theraband & eccentric curls (am+pm)

Bit of a rubbish week as didn't even make it to the wall over the weekend, have mainly been focusing on elbows ahead of surf trip.

Wont be able to post next week as I'll be surfing in morocco for 10 days. 

[cheque]

STG- E1 and 6C on grit this season
MTG (2011)- E2, 7A, 7a
LTG- onsighting long E4+ routes by end 2013

M- Nothing.
T- Indoor bouldering.
W-Nothing.
T- Indoor bouldering. Strained my ankle a bit.
F- Nothing. Ankle feels dodgy.
S- Nothing. Ankle feels much improved.
S- Shower-dodging on first session at Trackside. Disappointed not to get Strawberries, or Crack and Pocket. Had about 30 goes on the former and but nearly flashed the latter on my only go before it got soaked! Trashed skin. Climbing with tight ankle support seems to have done something bad to my achilles, too...

[andybfreeman]

Goals as before (7C and 8a)

M - good TCA session after work. Working more blues, got up a few including one I'd tried and failed yesterday but more added to the 'last move' pile!

T - Weights at home - 2 sets Bolton with 6kg DBs and 2 sets with 8kg DBs + 20 front squats with 8kg DBS + core

W - TCA - working blues. Managed got get up one more and made significant progress on others, hampered by shit skin

Th - Quick session of weights at home - Bolton complexes, pull ups two armed and assisted one armed, front squats and core. Followed by very nice dinner at Bordeaux Quay inc 2001 Chinon and 72 Armagnac , nom!

F - Drinks after work 

Sa - Rest/hangover

Su - TCA comp. 2 problems failed low due to silly mistakes so only managed a score of 426. OK but not as good as I'd expected/hoped for. Worked a few more blues with no success.

Weight - high allweek until very low Saturday morning (dehydration is the only possible explanation!) Average up to 68.2kg but pinch test still suggests losing fat. Well off target for font but that was fairly arbitrary at best!

[Falling Down]

Goals - 7B then 7c routes pyramid

M-F Another really tough week at work, 12 hour days and travel.
S - Knackered and psyche low but had a good indoor bouldering session. Felt loads better by the end.
S - Indoors again (grrr weather!) Row, Fingerboard (2 full sets of encores), Weight (5x5 OHS 20, 30, 40, 40, 30 kg), Row

Another poor week just maintaining some degree of activity.  Weight staying flat or down a bit which is good.

Bring on some good weather please!

[pyrosis]

STG (this week): three good sessions outdoors, ride some backcountry snow, go to a yoga class, go for a run, quit smoking tobacco
Medium term (this spring): V6's on both tuff and granite, boulder at Big Bend, climb two desert towers, lead 5.11 at Indian Creek
Long term (this year): High Plains Drifter, Morning Dove White (both v7)

Mon - worked 3pm to 3am
Tue - worked 3pm to 3am
Wed - easy circuit at the Happys, 50 problems vb to v0-
Thu - easy circuit at the Happys, 35 problems vb to v0+
Fri - stormy, did housework
Sat - snowboard, fresh powder, 1/2 day. rotator cuff and wrist extensor exercise, stretched.
Sun - Happys. Many warmups then two v4, two v5, all repeats. worked the moves on three classic v6's and a v8, didn't send any of them though.

[Barratt]

Mon: rest
Tues: Routes @ Edge
Wed: Boulder @ Matrix, tired
Sun: Boulder @ Works, tired/hung over

Not a great week - too much beer.

[slackline]

too much beer.

Thats an oxymoron! 

[tomtom]

Bit slow on the uptake this week... STG 7C...

M: Rest, work, usual..
T: Evening trip to the Climbing Despot (Gadaffi wasnt there, but Chavez was blazing up the yellows..) Good session, ticked some more reds, a couple of yellows (time for a re-set lads.. I only go once a week and those reds & yellows are a bit tired now...), killed myself on the rings later..
W: rest
T: Ahhh. what wonderful weather. Afternoon off and down to the Cliff.. like a lovely spring afternoon.. Wasted myself on project #1 (Keel) and made some (surprising) progress on what is now project # 2, Jess' roof. failed trying Stu's wall at the end of the day, despite sharma-esq screaming when I held the first move then forgot what to do (sorry for everyone else there - rather embarrasing..)
F: Rest..
S: Booze (aka rest)
Su: Sketchy trip to the Cliff (its becoming quite a habit..) rain on and off, but a blustery wind kept most things dry.. More Keelfailureantics, another go on Jess' roof, but repeated (w/out topping out) DWR and Underhand - so theres obviously still something in the tank!

A fairly good week - usual project shizzle (which I like)

[i_a_coops]

STG: Week off training, do some antagonistics  , sort out work 

Next weekend: Emerge from dip and do something on the Bowderstone

M - Indoor routes, bouldering
T
W
T - Shit session. fingers felt like they were going to snap.
F - bouldering/circuits, massive cut on finger. Other finger feeling tweaky
S
S - Burbage, got rained on a lot. Every time I put my shoes on underneath the terrace it started pissing down again.... managed a decent link from the start of the terrace but no tick. Also failed on WSS, LIARD and Striker, good thing I'm used to being shut down on stuff!
M - New Mills Tor. First V7 flash, did two routes under the bridge

Gritstone is bloody hard to climb.....

[Muenchener]

STG: Strength Phase of Winter Training Plan.
       Complete Thalkirchen red & green bouldering circuits by 5th March. Current score: 18/18 yyfy
       200 practice falls before Easter. Current score: 22
   > 200 points in boulderwelt comp on 19th Feb
   275 points in next boulderwelt comp on 19th March
MTG: Mittlere Weisse Wand, Konstein. 6b os in Arco at Easter
LTG: 7a rp; classic big Vs / VIs at local crags (Kaisergebirge, Wetterstein etc.) e.g. West Face Totenkirchl

M:
T: Bouldering, Thalkirchen. Two more problems done on target circuit bringing total to 17/18. Significant progress on the remaining one.
W: yoga
T:  Step-ups w/rucksack, 25 minutes
F: Bouldering: short session in office gym.
S: yoga
S: Bouldering, Thalkirchen. Last remaining green circuit problem falls first go. YYFY, strength phase training goal reached. Anticlimactic attempt to start power endurance training phase with a 4x4 on which, however, I neither feel like puking nor dying. Therefore presumably nowhere near hard enough.

[DaveyDave]

OK, OK... First post in this - (sorry if I'm late!)

Been half term this week so climbing's been a big priority.

Short term goals
Get decent at beta!!!!!
Start flashing 7a indoor.

Long Term goals
Brad Pit and Deliverance by the end of this year.


M-  WORKS.
T-  Town then 20 mins at the works (had to leave early Q __ Q )
W-  WORKS.
T- Hitched out to Burbage South - beautiful day. Shame I got spanked on 4+ slabs...
F-  5 hours of bizarre climbing based shenanigans.
Sat- Bought peak district for an extortionate price on Sheffield Monopoly (JUST BECAUSE)
Sun- Bugger all.

After tea weight - 58kg

Sorry if I faux pas'd in here, I'm new...

[TobyD]

Goals: 8a+, more solid at E6. 
M: boulder few hours i think now too long ago for me to remember clearly
T: ashtanga yoga, 1.5 hour
W:  boulder 3 hours
T: bouldering 2 hours, 5-6 30 move circuits.
F: run 1/2 hour
S: 10-12 routes, leeds wall mostly 7a-c
S: one hour warm up, one hour beastmaker / campus, one hour circuits (10x 30 move), 20-30 easy problems

[Pebblespanker]

STG Font 7a, or as close as I can get to V6/Font 7a, by end 2011 (current best Font 6c+),
MTG English 6c in some shape or form by end 2012
LTG to have functional fingers post 50!

Mon Core and general Strength - 220 assorted crunches in sets of 45secs duration, Planche pressups (feet on floor) 3 sets 15, 10 , 10, Frog planches x2 held for 6 secs - felt wasted!!
Tue Notts wall - excellent session approx 25 problems inc black and white 5c (hard) so happy
Weds   Left ring finger lowest joint felt painful - the price of the black and white 5c ?? NOT happy but resigned - will modify training to accomodatre recovery, feckin tweaky plastic  Core session ab crunches (210), planche pressups 3 x 10, frog planches 10 x 8 secs (no face plants!!!! )
Thu tired after work - Core & strength planche pressups 3 x 10, frog planches 8 secs x3, x6, x6 (no face plants!!!! )
Fri Rest and Black Ops session
Sat - Core session ab crunches (330),
Sun Repeaters: Poor sloper DH 4F OH 7/3secs x 7, Poor sloper DH B3F OH 7/3secs x 7 Still recovering from tweaked LH ring finger felt better but slowly improving
 

[shark]

Fri Rest and Black Ops session
[

  Tell us more or is it on a 'need to know only' basis ?

[nai]

Aims

m - nowt
T - alternated sets of fingertip pullups with sets of core
w core i think
T climbed a lot easy stuff at curbar badly, rather like you'd expect a man who's had little sleep for a few nights and has just eaten a filling 2 course lunch to climb.  max hangs, 340 core reps
F warm up at home then out to burbage to open a standing order with FG.  Only it was wet so I headed for Remergence, which was wet.  Decided to go home but saw BF looked ok so stil not having learned tried the Reverse.  A scraped shin and sore knee later I did go home.
s about 200 core reps plus some press ups
s expended a lot of nervous energy watching football, ate lot of shite and drank far too much

The kind of week that makes you wonder why you bother

[Pebblespanker]

Fri Rest and Black Ops session
[

  Tell us more or is it on a 'need to know only' basis ?

I could tell you but then you would have to be visited in dead of night by large armed men in ski masks who would do unspeakable things to ensure your silence 

they are listening ... always
 
time for my medication