[tomtom]

STG 7C..

M: Work, Telly, Bed
T: Work gets in the way of an evening trip to the Depot.. so a session on the Beastmaker. Felt really weak - three 3*6's mainly on the large holds.. lats and shoulders really aching..
W: rest/nothing
Th: Speculative afternoon trip to Almscliff... was claggy but 80% dry.. Had a fiddle on the blockless Ohanging block opposite morells failed miserably.. so went along to have a first tentative fiddle on the Keel.. Worked the first moves so they didnt rip my shoulders out, and then (to my amazement) got the toe lock in good, matched with the opposing heel and got both hands on the lip. Realising I'd done part a fair chunk of the hard bit I spent the next 2 hours on it! Got close (tickling the lip of the final pocket) before core, arms and shoulders seemed to fail at the same time. But chuffed to get (to me) pretty close to it..
Fri: Rest
Sat: Trip to Parasillas with Nai and TommyTwoTone... there was a good crowd at the cave - good to meet Dobbin and Saltbeef (briefly..) & others. It was a funny visit, I got up nothing in the cave, but made really good progress (up to wet goppy bits that stopped me getting further) on 3 problems - all variants on Beaver cleaver leaver diva fever etc.. after 4 hours I was wasted  A good visit - problems that have in the past seemed impossible now seem do-able..
Su: rest...

A good week - despite not getting up anything! But making real progress...

[nai]

Aims

M - Froggatt, very frustrating day, went to try Rambeau for the third or fourth time (but the first time with good skin).  Failed at the same place, from the sloper I just can't quite reach the next hold with my hip under the lip but the moment I udge it out I'm thrown off balance and can't hold the lockout.
T - knackered
w - ditto
T - 5 sets repeaters, 340 rep core workout + 3xsets planks
F -
S - First visit to the Cave with t5 (tomtom+tommytwotone), lots of dampness but managed Lipstick and would have done Bust Lip but for greasing off the wet final hold.  Quite a place, I can see how people get hooked by it.
S - felt very battered (and hungover). eve: 30 mins rowing machine, 350 rep core workout, 3x10 hanging leg raises (couldn't face planks).

[tommytwotone]

New STG - tick of everything at the Cliff in the latest bouldering guide up to 7a
LTG - 7b by end of 2011

M - Depot with mate from work and the missus, average session
T - Attempted to train on Beastmaker but after 3 previous days on realised this was a non-starter. Had a beer instead.
W - Nowt
T - Nowt
F - Nowt
S - I went to the cave and I wasn't the best. Good trip with tomtom and nai, got a few things done and defo keen to get back when all the cruxes on the V6/7 stuff are dry!
S - Despite barely being able to move went to Depot at Mrs. Tone's request, ended up doing new whites (25 x V0 - V1), which nearly killed me. Watched Wigan stuff Bradford in the afternoon.

[205Chris]

STG: Grit highballing
MTG: Sport 8a

M: 10 laps of the 6c circuit at the works with 8 minutes rest between each lap. Finished off with L-sits / attempting front levers
T: 40 mins max hangs on beastmaker. Then 18 routes at the Edge
W: Rest
T: 1.5 hours on garage board working hard problems
F: 2 hours at the works. Did a lot of problems on the new wasp circuit.
S: 50 minutes max hangs on beastmaker
S: Easy circuit problems at the works. Went for a walk in the Burbage valley in the afternoon.

Not a bad week training wise but disappointed not to get outside at all due to the weather.

[Andy F]

Goals - 8b, 7B+

Mon - rest.
Tues - The Hangar. Really good session, ticked most of the new yellow (V5-7) circuit.
Wed - woke up with stiff and 'crunchy' right shoulder -  - the old rotator cuff injury has flared up  . Take the rest of the week off, no finger boarding or climbing. Will rest for 10 - 14 days and see how it goes.

[tomtom]

  T5  sounds like some sort of boy band!

[duncan]

STG: Do some trad. - any trad. - prior to Wadi Rum trip.
MTG: E5/7b

M - Nothing
T - Mile End. Too busy to train.  Bouldering V2-4. 
W - Nursing sore ankle
T - Arch. Busy. Bouldering V4s.
F - Shoulder stability stuff
S - Grotty limestone quarry bolt clipping.  Not sure how specific doing damp 6s in the gloom is to multipitch desert sandstone trad...
S - 20x V0/V1 in 10 mins. 20x V2/V3 in 40 mins.

Need to do more mileage.

[Barratt]

Mon: nowt
Tues: routes at the edge felt tired, finished with a few boulder problems and a few circuits.
Wed: should have rested but went to foundry for an hour, crap session.
Thurs: works circuits at lunch.
Fri: heavy drinking
Sat: heavy drinking/curry
Sunday: despite the booze, good session at the works on the wasps.

Rest tomorrow and can't wait. Need to cut back on the ales!

[shark]

Thanks again tomtom

Weight 11.5-7
Aims

M.Tarn. 6c+, 7b (fail) 7a (o/s). Travel back.
T. Feel sore. Eve. Edge. Decided against 4x4 session and belayed daughter
W. Still sore. Eve Massaged with hot stones
T. Eve Shed Easy circuit with rests 280moves
F. Eve. Foundry. With boys. 2! x4 with Duncan
S. Eve Shed Easy circuit mainly doubles 440moves
S. AM Foundry Furnace 6a, 6b, 6c, 6c, 7a(fail),6b. Coffee break Main wall 6b, 6c+, 6c+

Seems ages since I came back. Had an easyish recovery week. Pigged out this weekend  Losing faith I will lose weight whilst training. Harder training week this week.
 

[Muenchener]

STG: Strength Phase of Winter Training Plan. Complete Thalkirchen red & green bouldering circuits by 5th March. Current score: 15/18
        200 practice falls before Easter. Current score: 22
   > 200 points in boulderwelt comp on 19th Feb 275 points in next boulderwelt comp on 19th March
MTG: Mittlere Weisse Wand, Konstein. 6b os in Arco at Easter
LTG: 7a rp; classic big Vs / VIs at local crags (Kaisergebirge, Wetterstein etc.) e.g. West Face Totenkirchl

M: Fly to India
T: Jetlag, work
W: Weights in hotel gym: deadlifts, weighted pullups, front squats
T: Yoga
F: Fly back from India. Yoga
S: Boulderwelt comp. Target score: 200 points. Actual score: 245 points. yyfy.
    I note, however, that my head is weak: the three "medium" difficulty problems I don't get up are all highballs.
    I note also that the DFB level at boulderwelt - normally respectable anyway - rises to downright Impressive on comp day.
S: Swimming with Kind

[i_a_coops]

STG: 7C, 8a

M - Indoor routes
T - Indoor routes
W - mostly rest, weirdly strong on levers.
T - am: Bouldering, felt fairly strong. eve. P.E. , no skin.
F - No skin.
S - Westway! bouldering. Why can they set good problems that require you to pull hard here?
S - Brookes. came close to doing my epic linkup on the steep board (V8-V0-shakeout-V7-V0-V4-V0-V4-V0-V3-V0-V2-V0-V2).

Bad things: my sleep pattern is way off.... also I can't seem to line up a day when I'm free, someone with a car is free and it's not pissing down with rain. Will try and sort out both of these next week!

Week 1 of supplement abuse (L-glutamine & creatine).

[Fultonius]

Right, time to get things sorted and start tracking progress - I'm joining UKBPowerClub!

STG May 2011: Onsight E4 in the Hebrides, a new >7b route outside, repeat some probelms at Dumby - Consolidated 7B+, Mugsy Traverse 7B, Mestizo Traverse 7B, Slap Happy 7A~, Mestizo Sitter (7A+ with a testing heel hook for my gimp leg)

LTG: E5 O/S, Fr8a, >7C

78.2kg

Had a cold this week so mainly work.

M: 12hr Sitework
T: 12hr Sitework, Some pressups, v-situps and planks (alternately lifting 1 leg) in room.
W:12hr Sitework
T:12hr Sitework 40 mins swim. 50/50 breast stroke/front crawl
F:12hr Sitework
S:12hr Sitework
S:12hr Sitework Gym - 10 min warm up cycle, Pull-ups 3x10 fast, Deadlifts 35kg x 10 x 3, Overhead Squats 20Kg x 7 x 3, Gymball Dumbell Pullovers 10kg x 8 x 3, Gymball Bridges, Leg Raises 4kg x 10 x 3.

Shoulders, abbs and hamstrings feeling it today as it's my first session in a while.

[fried]

STG - Forgot that I was meant to touch my toes by the end of the month, not looking good! and 6A in the forest.

Monday - Shoulder stuff
Tuesday - Good indoor session (1hour climb/ 1 hour weights/core / 1hour climb) didn't tick anything but climbed better than last week.
Wednesday - Shoulder stuff
Thursday - Sack off evening session, feel a cold coming on.
Friday - Walk 2h, dance until 2am, drink a lot
Saturday - bed
Sunday - Same as Tuesday. Nearly tick F6A+ but way over-graded anyway, should be easyish at optimum strength.

I'm so excited I'll be back in the peak for 2 weeks in August! If it rains I might even check out the parking at the Works!

Weight 76.0kg, hope this is muscle.

[GCW]

Short term goals
Do my local cross country (5.8km) in under 30 minutes (big ask I think)
Sort out the bad knee.
Tick something, anything, from my 2011 aims list!

Medium Term goals
Climb font 7c in 2011 (still a bit ambitious).
Continue trying to keep the weight down (aim for 83kg)- also a bit ambitious!
Do my Winter Hill run in under 43:12 (average 10kmh).
Finish off my remaining esoteric Lancs Quarry projects.




M-  Work, wine.
T-  Work, wine.
W-  Work, wine.
T- Work, wine.
F-  Work, wine.
S-  Afternoon at West View with Nik.  Reasonable session but felt pretty battered quite quickly.
S-  The new regime begins!!  Maybe.

Monday weigh in of 87.5kg. 

[ummagumma]

STG: Climb 7A by end of March. Standard.
MTG: 7B n.n

M Rest
T Bouldering O/D. Muh. Ok session. Elbow sore so stopped early.
W Rest/elbow sore
T Rest/elbow sore
F Rest/elbow sore
S Bouldering O/D. Tum. Worked 4 of my projects. All with good progress but no sends yet. 
S Bouldering O/D. Hab. Light enough day. Shoulder sore so took it easy. Tried a 7A problem. So, so close 

Plagued with nagging pains. Rest today on the cards.

[chris05]

STG: more 7A's
MTG: 7B

M: Bolton complex x3, core (500), BM: max hangs, pull-ups & eccentric curls.
T: swim (60l), core: 500 moves + planks & eccentric curls (x2)
W: Bolton complex x3, core (500), BM: 3x30 moves foot on, max hangs, pull-ups & eccentric curls (x2).
T: Went to the pub
F: Struggled to make it through the day after the pub last night, had to resort to returning to the pub on friday too.
S: Bouldering at Notts wall, went to the pub
S: Short bouldering session at clifftop, aborted due to sore elbow, 4.5m run, theraband & core (500)

A reasonable week, shame about the weather. My elbow problem seems to have returned slightly, hoping to keep it at bay with theraband and eccentric curls.

[andybfreeman]

Goals as before - 7C and 8a

M - Rest including very nice dinner and catch up with an old mate. Ate and drank a bit more than planned but treating it as extended recovery/refuelling!

T - 20 mins areocap - abandoned TCA due to lack of skin and went home! 3 x Bolton complex with 8kg DBs. Assisted one armers and core.

W - Rest

Th - Managed less than 2 hours at TCA before skin forced another early retreat. Repeated circuits and worked moves on red - all moves now done and linked from 13 to the end. 2 x Bolton Complex with 8kg DBs + assisted one armers and core at home.

F - Rest

Sa - Rest

Su - Better than expected session at TCA. Skin still very thin but a combination of liquid and super chalk meant that I could; manage more than one move before oozing! Managed half a dozen of the new hard blue problems + last move on a couple more

Weight = average of 67.5kg lat week but tending upwards at the end of the week. 69kg this morning  enough rest now, time to get back to regular volume before i get too fat!

[Pebblespanker]

STG Font 7a, or as close as I can get to V6/Font 7a, by end 2011 (current best Font 6c+),
MTG English 6c in some shape or form by end 2012
LTG to have functional fingers post 50!

Finally got back into training after various viruses and crap weather ruined most of Jan

Weight 11st 11lb - still need to shift 10-11lbs of lard to msake life as easy as poss for the old finger joints

Starting at add Core into the routine from the 22nd

Mon Active rest - 2 sets Open hand repeaters
Tue Active rest - 2 sets Open hand repeaters
Weds Active rest - 2 sets Open hand repeaters
Thu Good Strength sesh on the fingerboard (Metolius) , need to reapparise some of the assitance weights on the one arm hangs and also the unassisted maximal hangs as now can do 7/3 repeaters on the smallest edge with F3F, Finished sesh with dips to failure - beasted!!
Fri Active rest - 2 sets of repeaters
Sat - 5hrs skimming the kitchen ceiling, shoulders felt shagged not suprising as I dont do it for a living 
Sun - Abortive trip to Peak, Burbage North wet, even Remergence. Trackside almost dry but didn't fancy it as the rain kept trying so went to wall Had best ever session down Notts wall - again, did all the problems on the upper wall including the fingery 6a (first 6a at the wall) bar one 5c (the same feckin Pink & Yellow!  ) reversed all the easy probs up to middle of the 5a's. Approx 28 probs. Feeling really good and strong, plus fingers were OK - major consideration at my age lol! Great session and felt beasted afterwards.

[webbo]

Goals
Lose weight and stop breaking myself.

Mon.Decided to fit some new to my bike before work.Back goes into spasm on standing up.
Tue. back improves gradually through the day.rockcity new problems do a couple of v6s
Wed.weights.more weight on press behind neck and an extra rep on max bench press.
Thu.rockcity.repeated everything I did on tuesday plus a couple more things.
Fri.nothing.
Sat.leeds wall.Same problems as last time repeated everything I'd done before and did a couple of things I couldn't do last time.
Sun.7 mile work on the Wolds with the missus.Deadhanging session 8 sec hangs with 8 lbs.
Not too bad a week apart from back spasm.First time I've managed to climb 3 times in a week since first week in Jan.

 

[Falling Down]

Had a week off training climbing due to terrible skin and slightly tweaky fingers - if the weather had been nice I would have gone outside.  Earned a load of brownie points by doing DIY and chores most of the weekend instead.

M-F long days at work
S - Run in the morning.  Weights in the afternoon (Snatch, C&J, OHS & FS) - interesting learning how much the OHS ability limits the snatch.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals: F7b+ in a session, F7c/+ RP in summer, F8a, More 7B's and 7B+

M: Beastmaker session - Best one yet, mamaged 2 full sets of Neds plan including repeaters on crimps which had so far elude me!! 
T: AnCap @ The works - Felt tired but managed full set - Wierd elbow burst/leaking fluid at end of penultimate rep but no pain so strapped it up and finished the set! Ouack said it's burstitis so gave me the all clear to keep training with what now looks like a small udder on my elbow 
W: Watch the Arsenal beat Barcelona.... YYFY!!!
T: AeroCap in cellar - 4 x 10mins with 10mins rest.
F: 4x4's with Simon - Had to scoot early so only managed 3 x 4 and a couple of warmups... Felt propper worked tho.
S: Rest
S: AeroCap in cellar - adjusted this a bit to ensure that I was doing 100-120 actual moves in between rests on jugs.. Perfectly pumped but only took 8 mins so cut rest to 8 mins too... Nice!

Good week... Only thing I failed to do was me weights which I'll start this week.. Starting to see some small improvments which will hopefully continue now I'm back on the horse, so to speak..

Not in London again this week so massive YYFY for that.. Will keep on keeping on!

:D

[cheque]

STG- E1 and 6C on grit this season
MTG (2011)- E2, 7A, 7a
LTG- onsighting long E4+ routes by end 2013

M- Nothing
T- Indoor bouldering. Surprised how well I did considering I'm much weaker after illness. Terminated early due to rubbish skin, though.
W- Nothing. Weigh more than I've ever weighed (admittedly this is only 60kg).
T- 1/2 hour core. First non-climbing training in months!
F- Nothing
S- Indoor bouldering. Lots of. Starting to feel strong again! Skin now fine.
S- More southern Peak grit exploration in less than great conditions with a non-climber. Got a good workout on some damp boulder problems before she got too bored. First 'two days on' since illness.

Still exorcising the legacy of two weeks in bed ill. Encouraging, though, as my skin and strength are coming back well. Looks like I've managed to quit smoking, too.  Planning to get on a rope indoors this week, stop eating chocolate all the time and do some more non-climbing training.  A dry weekend will hopefully see me approaching STGs.

[Luthor]

STG  - Stay psyched (going well so far), train hard, not get injured...
MTG  - F8a Sport route in 2011. Add to the fairly small list of font 7b bouldering ticks.


Mon     - busy / rest
Tue     - Routes at the Edge, good session.
Wed     - Brief bouldering session at the Works, too busy to do much.
Thurs   - Circuit board at Works.
Fri     - Bouldering at Works / Beers
Sat     - Recover.
Sun     - Bouldering at Works

[aly]

STG: fix finger, one-armer and front lever
LTG: 7C and 8a

Mon: interval sprint session, and fingerboard repeaters set (7 grips)
Tues: Quick pull up and fingerboard session
Weds: Bouldering session down at the wall, not feeling too weak but one of my good fingers felt a little tweaky which I will need to watch.  Drank too much beer.
Thurs: Bouldering and soloing at the roaches, nothing hard but nice to get plenty of easy problems done.
Fri: Short repeaters session, finger definitely a little sore to cut the session short.
Sat: Fairly monster session at the works, drank too much beer.
Sun: Another long session at the foundry, half routes half bouldering.

More training and less beer would help, might try a coupe of core sessions to replace climbing if finger is still a bit funny.

[pyrosis]

Can I play even though I am in the US? (Bishop to be precise)

[slackline]

Can I play even though I am in the US? (Bishop to be precise)

UKB knows no geographical boundaries 

[tomtom]

Can I play even though I am in the US? (Bishop to be precise)

UKB knows no geographical boundaries 

It also knows no boundaries in taste either 



(meant as a comment about the general purile, juvenile and other ile type nature of the board!)

[pyrosis]

Can I play even though I am in the US? (Bishop to be precise)

UKB knows no geographical boundaries 

It also knows no boundaries in taste either 



(meant as a comment about the general purile, juvenile and other ile type nature of the board!)

Can't possibly be worse than boldering.com

[shark]

Can I play even though I am in the US? (Bishop to be precise)

Of course. Nibile is in Italy, Muenchener lives in Germany or Austria I think and thesiger somewhere in camel land.

In fact consider yourself the Ambassador of Bishop. If you are mates with Mick Ryan best keep it yourself though 

[pyrosis]

Can I play even though I am in the US? (Bishop to be precise)

Of course. Nibile is in Italy, Muenchener lives in Germany or Austria I think and thesiger somewhere in camel land.

In fact consider yourself the Ambassador of Bishop. If you are mates with Mick Ryan best keep it yourself though 

Excellent. I've met Mick years ago, didn't he move back to the UK?

Anyway, thanks for the welcome! No training log at present so I start with some goals.

Short term (this week): 50 boulder problems of any difficulty, quit smoking tobacco, go for a run, stretch, snowboard some powder
Medium term (this spring): V6's on both tuff and granite, boulder at Big Bend, climb two desert towers, lead 5.11 at Indian Creek
Long term (this year): High Plains Drifter, Morning Dove White (both v7)

[shark]

Excellent. I've met Mick years ago, didn't he move back to the UK?

Yes. He's a changed man since being assimmilated by the Borg

Anyway, thanks for the welcome! No training log at present so I start with some goals.

Short term (this week): 50 boulder problems of any difficulty, quit smoking tobacco, go for a run, stretch, snowboard some powder
Medium term (this spring): V6's on both tuff and granite, boulder at Big Bend, climb two desert towers, lead 5.11 at Indian Creek
Long term (this year): High Plains Drifter, Morning Dove White (both v7)

Deeply jealous of your location. With reference to your other thread it sounds like you have a free to enter all weather gym. It might be useful to structure your days outside as if you were inside to introduce more variety. So by thinking of it as a gym and you could do exercises or sessions that have proved to have a good training effect such as deadhangs, Power endurance circuits and 4 x 4's except on real rock. Moffat did this sort of thing on boulder problem link-ups to great effect back in the day. Alternatively as Serpico says do the supplemental stuff like weights and deadhangs after your days out although this can be tough when you feel tired.