[tomtom]

STG 7B+ 7C

M: rest
T: Trip to Alsmscliff. Got Underhand, last go of the day as it was getting dark. First 7B+ and a long term project ticked. 
W: rest. Shattered. I really gave it my all on tuesday, and it really sapped all my strength - I was physically and (surprisingly) mentally shattered.
T: More rest...
F: Trip to the peak - First Curbar (wet) then on to Stanage - met up with Nai, PaulB and Nibs (great to meet you both at last..). Conditions were damp to drying and there was little inspiring me. After a couple of sags on Captain Hook I ended up on another Bete Noir - Deliverance. I probably had 20+ attempts.. getting my fingers around the top hold several times but not holding it. One time it stuck for about a second then (almost in slow mo) slid off... grr... My attempts ended when I was knackered and I tore a large flapper in one finger (sliding off the top hold again..)... NEARLY two 7B+'s in a week... Beers that evening..
S: Rest - house stuff. Beers (many) that evening
Su: Hungover. Trip to Logport wall, and I stuttered up a few things. Spent most of my time on the overhangs working the shoulders and forearms..

What a week. Superb, a big YYFY and I'm now comfortably below 12 stone.. Chuffed with Underhand - when it went the flow was totally there... Happy days.

[fried]

Long, tiring week of work..

Monday - Nothing
Tuesday - Shoulder stuff
Wednesday - Indoor session, absolutely awful, tired, hadn't eaten climbed like it was the first time I'd put boots on.
Thursday - shoulder stuff
Friday - nothing
Saturday - Yay! Car repaired, First time outside since before Christmas. Gorge aux chats, a bit damp when I get there. Almost 2 months on plastic has done absolutely nothing for my footwork. Potter around, try out my 5.10 d'aescents for the first time. Do some blue problems, get shut down on some red ones, then it starts to rain. So happy to be outside.
Sunday - shoulder stuff

Weight - 75.5kg

STG - 6A in forest (highly unlikely at the moment)
MTG - missus is now happy (ish) to move to the forest, so just need to save up some pennies. Probably be next year around Ferté alais.
LTG - Organise an old skool acid house party

[Luthor]

STG  - Stay psyched (going well so far), train hard, not get injured...
MTG  - F8a Sport route in 2011. Add to the fairly small list of font 7b bouldering ticks.


Mon     - busy / rest
Tue     - The Edge: 5, 6a, 7a, 7a+ (fail near top), 7b (1 rest), 7b (fail near top), 7a (fail 1/2 way up), 6c, 6a
Wed     - Bouldering at The Works
Thurs   - Felt ill, took a rest day.
Fri     - Bouldered at The Matrix
Sat     - Brief trip out to Stanage at end of day. Repeated Hampers Hang.
Sun     - busy/rest

[cheque]

STG- E1 and 6C on grit this season
MTG (2011)- E2, 7A, 7a
LTG- onsighting long E4+ routes by end 2013

M- Ill
T- Burbage North- a bit of easy, short soloing. Felt so good to be better and out climbing again for the first time in two weeks on the first sunny day of 2011. Met Bubba. 
W- Nothing
T- Nothing
F- Nothing
S- Rowtor. It seems two weeks in bed have made me weak with crap skin as shut down on everything over 6A+ and got my first ever flapper.
S- Wandering around the Black Rocks area in the rain checking out obscure things.

Training starts again tomorrow. Both trips this week have been poor in terms of climbing achievement but absolutely great fun. I'm sure I can do E1 next time out on trad, but 6C+ may have to wait.

[tommytwotone]

LTG - Font 7b by end of 2011

M - Nowt, felt like I was coming down with a cold so rested
T - Ditto
W - Ditto
T - Down in London for work, still felt crap so rested / went out with the missus for dinner when I got back
F - Depot session, trying to take it easy with decent weather in store for Sat but did go a bit OTT
S - Almscliff in the sun / dry, YYFY! Nailed Gypus highball YYFY! Dinner in Pool / beers in Otley afterwards
S - Hangover, full English and a very half-arsed session at Depot. Retreated to watch Boardwalk Empire instead.

[205Chris]

STGs: Grit highballing
MTG: 8a route this summer

M: 40 mins max hangs on beastmaker followed by the blue & green circuits at the works.
T: One hour on the campus board then some stamina work at the Edge.
W: Bouldering at the Works
T: 6 laps of the 6c on the Works circuit board
F: Fingerboard max hangs / Core
S: Wet start. Warm up at Curbar then went to try Flatworld. Went on my last try as my skin was getting thin. YYFY  . Bundled it round to Stanage to do Breadline which I've been putting off for ages. Really enjoyable and more bold than hard. A brilliant problem. As if that wasn't enough excitement for one day I came home and did 30 mins of hard problems on garage board.
S: 2 Hours at the works.

Good week training wise. After several weeks of feeling week and not climbing well I'm well pleased to bag Flatworld. Only my second session on it following a brief play 6 months ago.

Bad news is that that work have pissed all over my plans to go to Font at the end of March  which means my training focus now is for Siurana at Easter. I'd still like to tick off a few more grit highballs given the opportunity though.

[Muenchener]

STG: Strength Phase of Winter Training Plan. Complete Thalkirchen red & green bouldering circuits by 5th March. Current score: 15/18
          200 practice falls before Easter. Current score: 22
   > 400 points in boulderwelt comp on 19th Feb if not too jetlagged to take part (see below)
MTG: Mittlere Weisse Wand, Konstein. 6b os in Arco at Easter
LTG: 7a rp; classic big Vs / VIs at local crags (Kaisergebirge, Wetterstein etc.) e.g. West Face Totenkirchl

M: yoga
T: bike to work, 24 km
W: bike to work, 22km
T: Boulderwelt. Pre-comp recce. Got 5 more problems on the 6Aish circuit, two of them flashed.
F: Office gym: turkish getups & bw rows as warm-up, system-style lockoff & reach exercises on boulder wall, shoulders & core
S,S: A mate's birthday celebration: Rofangebirge weekend snowboard tour complete w/ snowhole bivvy party.

Next week: short business trip to India = tapering before boulder comp

[i_a_coops]

Top Priorities: Draggin' Along, RHM, The Terrace.

M -
T - routes
W -
T - bouldering, routes
F -
S -
S - Cheddar in the rain. did the dry bit of Draggin' Along, hopefully that included the crux! If so it should really go next time, it felt steady. Evening: indoor bouldering/p.e.

Not a great week, too much work, working until 4am far too often... Should be able to do lots of training and hopefully get outside next week as it should be a lot less hectic!

[ummagumma]

STG: Climb 7A by end of March
MTG: 7B n.n.

M Rest
T Bouldering I/D. Ful. Lots of volume
W Hangboard.
T Rest
F Rest
S Bouldering O/D. Tum. Climbed a long standing project - not too hard at 6B+ but not my style of climbing.  YYFS. It's nice to finally do it for sure. I also found a great bloc that might suit my style though. It has a 7B highball with sit start. I've done it from the stand. Just need to work out the tricky and powerful opening move!
S Bouldering O/D. Hab. Lots of volume. Not sure on grades. Tried a 6C+/7A problem also. Getting close 

Just joined a private bouldering wall. It will be great for training.  I feel like I'm closing in on my STG. It just might be possible.

[nai]

Aims

M - max hangs, some core maybe, can't remember
T - maybe some core, again memory fails.
W -
T - tempted to gardoms by a trickle of a North Westerly.  The bottom of Kidneystone was just about workable but didn't manage the hard move.
F - plantation with tomtom, Paul B, Nibs & Michele.  I was absolutely mad keen to get out but all motivation evaporated when I saw all the dampness upon arrival and despite it slowly drying out and the syke of the Italian lads it just wouldn't fire up again.
S - about 150 core reps
S - 250ish core reps + 3xsets planks.

Have this weekend to myself, hoping to get a day each in Yorks and Staffs so the week's all about saving skin and syke til then.

[chris05]

STG: more 7A's
MTG: 7A+/7B

M: 4.5m run, core (500), weights and theraband
T: pull-ups, press-ups, BM: (warm up: 3x30 moves foot on + repeaters) then max hangs & core (500)
W: 4.5m run & core (500)
T: pull-ups, press-ups, BM: (warm up: 3x30 moves foot on + repeaters) then max hangs & core (500)
F: rest
S: churnet bouldering, then early valentines meal with lots of wine etc
S: pull-ups, press-ups, BM: (warm up: 3x30 moves foot on + repeaters) then max hangs & core

An ok week, not enough running due to a couple of niggles but good to get back to the churnet and try a few harder (for me) problems.

[andybfreeman]

Goals - 7C (in the forest at Easter or earlier + UK). 8a route (cider soak at Ansteys)

M - had a heavy weekend so opted for complete rest

T - worked till gone 10pm but did some weights at home - 20 front squats with 2x 6kg DBs, then 5 sets of Bolton complex with same DBs, 1-2 mins rest between complexes. Need to increase weight but will have to get more DB plates as the only option with current set up is a jump to 11 kg which is probably too heavy at the mo, especially for the military press/squats which still feel hard at 6kg!

W - 1.45 hour session on Mark's board. Good session including ticking a project from December and repeating some crimpy problems. Stopped at Tesco on way home to pick up some more weights then Bolton complex at home - 1 set at 6kg DBs, 3 sets at 8kg DBs + 2 sets of 20 bicep curls using the 8kg DBs.

Th - knackered all day (weights just before bedtime = bad idea as couldn't sleep for shit!). Headed to TCA for a quick circuits session. Surprisingly good performance, green 6c warm up, yellow 7a+ felt easy, 2 laps on purple 7b felt fine then hit the wall trying to repeat a third time. 29 mins of aerocap to finish, used more small holds and felt good.

F = rest but another hard day at work and more shit sleep.

Sa - daytrip to the roaches. felt pretty warming up but then got pretty spanked on Tetris. Low moves felt fine but failed to get the hard arête due to bleeding tips 

Su - rest

A bit of a weird week with lots of stress at work and no decent sleep. Didn’t realise until too late that this had such a negative effect on me. I want to get back to the roaches sooner rather than later but when I am in better condition asap as I feel that hard arête should have gone down quickly and the moves on Tetris both suit and inspire me!

Weight = fairly consistent at 68ish for first part of week. Scales say body fat was consistent but feeling trimmer. Average for week down to 68.1kg but just 67.2kg both yesterday and this morning!

[duncan]

MTGs: E5/7b

M - Non-climbing trip - Moules, chips, mayonnaise
T - repeat
W - Brief bouldering session.  Playing not training
T - 15x V3/V4 on the 2 minutes
F - 15x V3/V4 on the 2 minutes
S - Family stuff
S - Family stuff + late evening session: 10x V1-3 on the minute; 10x V3/V4 on the two minutes

Too much extracurricular activity and the tail-end of a cold, but getting the hang of what I can and can't do with timed sessions.  Yesterday was a good work-out for me.

[Falling Down]

STG: 7B

M - 10min row. Barbell complex 3 sets of (5 x Deadlift, 5 x Front squat, 5 x OHS x Push Press)
T - Plantation - Sneaked out for a couple of hours.  Head was a bit zonked with work so wasn't climbing well. Managed to scrape along Green Traverse. Lovely day though. - Wine
W - Stockport Wall with Galpinos  4x4x4 on V3's/V2's/V1's.  Good session but skin got a bit knackered.
T - 10 min row then Barbell lifting drills 8x2 Snatch, 8x1 Clean & Jerk, 5x5 Front Squat, 5x3 OH press (40-50kg)
F - Recovery row 45mins (10k)
S - Aborted Staffs session as rain arrived. Raven Tor bouldering with Galpinos - Beer
S - Volume bouldering at Stockport - skin sore - Wine

Didn't travel anywhere this week and it shows in the schedule.   A year ago my elbow was buggered so it's great to be climbing regularly without any difficulties.  My skin is a bit buggered so might have to ease off this week.

[SA Chris]

Given I actually have a week with some worthwhile exercise I might start this up again.

STG - get some fintess back

LTG - do some routes

M - Lunchtime Yoga - 1 hr. Hatha, felt fine
T - Skied Glenshee - solid 9:30 - 2 pm of piste carving, thighs felt worked.
W - Bouldered at Dave'snew woody in Portlethen. Bit steep, but good two hours of work, and got a few things to work on
T - Lunchtime Yoga - 1 hr Ashtanga - felt worked but good
F - Nowt
S - Walked into Stob Coire nan Lochan and didBoomerang Gully. Actually OK. Back at car by 4, for winter climbing a short day out. Knee a bit knackered from walk out.
S - Did nowt, watched rain and ate.

[GCW]

Short term goals
Do my local cross country (5.8km) in under 30 minutes (big ask I think)
Sort out the bad knee.
Tick something, anything, from my 2011 aims list!

Medium Term goals
Climb font 7c in 2011 (still a bit ambitious).
Continue trying to keep the weight down (aim for 83kg)- also a bit ambitious!
Do my Winter Hill run in under 43:12 (average 10kmh).
Finish off my remaining esoteric Lancs Quarry projects.




M-  Work, wine.
T-  West View, failed on anything harder than V5.  Shite.
W-  Work, wine.
T- Work, wine.
F-  Work, wine.
S-  Work, wine.
S-  Work, wine.

Monday weigh in of 88kg. 

[chris_j_s]

Aims: UK 7a onsight, 7b+ redpoint in 2011

M: Ingleton PE Circuits. Felt okay considering it was my 3rd day on! Decent session on the circuits - no noticable gains but did at least maintain the same level as last week.
T:
W:
T: Ingleton PE Circuits. Finally some kind of breakthrough - managed three and a half times around my ~45 move circuit  plus 2 x 6c, 2 x 6b+. Then did 3 x the 6b circuit without stepping off the wall. Also managed (before circuits) to crack some difficult problems I'd previously been struggling with so not bad all round.
F:
S: Ingleton strength session. 90 minutes working on difficult problems managing to tick off some harder stuff thats been close for a while. Then spent 45 mins on the 45 degree woodie - still finding it unbelievably difficult to keep feet on during hard moves but definitely feeling some improvement.
S: Depot. Intended to do circuits but in the end got enthusiastic about just trying the red (V5-V7) problems. I last tried to do this difficulty of problem here maybe 6 or 7 months ago and couldn't finish any. Couldn't have been more different this time as I did all bar 1 of them with most going  first or 2nd try and the longest only taking 4 tries. Felt a little unfortunate not to do them all but skin was rapidly disappearing and my strength was definitely starting to tail off.

[aly]

STG MTG: one armer and front lever (not getting any closer)
MTG: fix finger and get clambering again
LTG: 7C and 8a

Knee being a bit weird after 2 intervals session last week so had a cardio-free week.

Mon: Indoor session at Stoke, did some good problems on the 45, finger a bit tweaky but I can climb stuff I wouldn't have got near a month ago.
Tues: Pull up session, not much enthusiasm
Weds: Got out to the churnet.  Managed to pretty much tick the Ousal crag bouldering, including my goal of getting Ousal Low which felt fairly steady with a good foot sequence.  Just got to learn to do laps on it now.
Thurs: Repeaters session on the fingerboard.  x6/5/4 with 1 min rest, 6 grips.
Fri: Bouldering outdoors, fairly disappointing session at Wright's as it all seems to hard.  (Still) nowhere near doing the move on the traverse.
Sat: civilian duties but managed to sneak a couple of hours bouldering on the clitheroe wall (tiny resin thing but good fun).
Sun: nothing bar a quick pull up and fingerboard session (short deadhangs) in the evening.

2 weeks of 'strength' left on the timetable before switching to a more enduro phase, need to get those gains in!  If I can find some soft 7B/7B+ to get ticked before easter it would be a massive psychological boost, but needs to be finger friendly.  Need to try and get on the grit in the next few weeks.  Shoulders a bit tweaky so the one-armers are going to have to take a back seat for a bit as a rotator cuff injury wouldn't be good.

[Nibile]

not training, but I'd like to conclude the year long posting. Mon-font. Tue-plantation. wed-far left. Thu-works, campus. Fri-plantation. Sat-plantation. Sun-the Cave. boom.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals: Same

M: Beastmaker session - Not really feeling it but did all excercises - Felt hard!
T: Nowt - drive to London.
W: AeroCap @ The Castle - Good session, got a right pump and sweat.
T: Nowt climbingwise - drank a fair bit.
F: AeroCap @ The Castle - Raging hangover but blew out the cobwebs and felt worked.
S: Nowt
S: Weights - Just arms -  Wrist and bicep curls and tricep presses @ 10 - 12kg. Drive home TFFT!

Did an additional AeroCap due to still being unable to do 4x4's as in bloody London, how so many people live down there I don't know, biggest shitheap in the country! The sheer volume of people in the Castle wound me up beyond belief! Even if I'd had someone to do the 4x4's with I doubt there would have been any wall space! Honestly, I'm going to give thanks every single day for the pace, access to countryside (inc. rock) and climbing facilities here in Sheffield!

This week: Not go to London... YYFY!!!

:D

[webbo]

Goals
Stop breaking myself.
Mon.Nothing felt knackered.
Tue.nothing felt Knackered again.
Wed.Rockcity climbed ok did a couple of harder things.
Thu.Deadhanging 8sec hangs with 8lbs added weight.
Fri.nothing other eat and drink lots.
Sat.rough.Weights,bike 21/2 hours.
Sun.Rockcity same session as wednesday.

[Andy F]

Goals - as before

Mon - rest
Tues - volume bouldering at the Hangar. Did a couple of thing's I'd previously failed on.
Wed - Fingerboard 30 mins, repeaters mainly
Thurs - rest
Fri - Fingerboard, 45 mins, working front2/back3
Sat - Family
Sun - The Hangar. 3 1/2 hours bouldering, did lots, felt tired at the end.

[Barratt]

Shit, late posting means I can't really remember!

Mon     - Nowt
Tue      - The Edge doing routes, one or two 6c's being the high point so far (5 sessions in)
Wed     - Bouldering at The Works
Thurs   - Nowt
Fri        - Bouldered at The Matrix trying made up feature problems, crimpy!
Sat      - Ride new bike
Sun     - Cheeky works session first thing, after an hour or so got fed up of the crowds.

Another decent week, lots done. Would really like to keep this training up but i've a sneeky feeling my shoulder will stop play soon enough

[Pebblespanker]

STG Font 7a, and as close as I can get to F7a by end 2011 (current best Font 6c+),
MTG English 6c in some shape or form by end 2012
LTG to have functional fingers post 50!

Finally got back into training after various viruses and crap weather ruined most of Jan

M Had best ever session down Notts wall - all the problems on the upper wall bar one 5c and the 6a Warmed down on the juggy 5bs on the barrel feature just to see what was left in the tank - answer feck all lol! Feeling really good and fingers were OK! Good mileage session and the moves were just flowing

T Rest
W Active Rest couple of sets of repeaters
T Rest & Travelling to York at brothers as stop off on way North so missed the wall
F Yorkshire wet so carried on the drive to Scotland
S Knackered
S Missed trip to Dundee to domestic 

Got new protein recovery drink to try this week since as I get older the recovery seems to take longer and am happy to clutch all available straws. One of the engineers reccomended it after he started back to serious Taekwondo in his mid 30's and was suffering post training

[shark]

Cheers tomtom

Weight 11.5-6 probably
Aims

M
T  Eve. 4x4 routes session at Edge.
W.
T.
F. Eve. Tarn. 6a+, 6b, 7a (o/s), 7b+ extension (fail), 7a+ (o/s)
S. Le Boffi. 6c (o/s), 7a+ (dogged), 7a+ (o/s), 7b+ (fail), 7b (o/s), 7a (fail)
S. Cantobre 6b+, 6c, 7a (dogged), 7a+ (flash), 7b+ (dogged), 7b (fail)

Good trip. Got back monday. Got post holiday blues now.