[tomtom]

I don't buy into the 'lets use shit boots indoors' mentality. How can you make productive use of your time if your feet are all over the place (*more than usual) because of sloppy/poppy shoes?

Because most of the time at walls for me is about volume rather than something specific/technical. Also wall holds are generally larger/more defined/actually there compared to grit for example..
I have a pair of mad rocks for the wall, and if I find my feet are popping off holds on trickier problems, I just go and put my better boots on...

 

Your feet are not 'just al over the place' on everything because you've got average boots on!

[ianv]

To be fair, you dont need ultimate friction on a wall, most holds are pretty positive so as long as the boots stick ok they will do their job. I was also never into the less than vertical side of climbing and dont expect that to change too much so again ultimate friction no biggie. 

[Paul B]

Your feet are not 'just al over the place' on everything because you've got average boots on!

Tell that to the beastmaker board.

[Richie Crouch]

I agree with Paul. If I am indoors training to improve 'technique' or board angle strength on terrible footholds it helps to practice using footwear similar to that which you would use outside, to groove the techniques required and not cutting loose as often..etc

[mrjonathanr]

Hi Ian I suspect I recognise you from years ago, seemed to like Malham IIRC.
I suspect you've got your answer by now but personally I'd just get your feet into the smallest size you physically can with plastic bags etc then go up a half size for performance or a whole size for a more comfortable fit. Boots mostly don't stretch half as much old Boreals did, but almost always improve a half size from new.

[Muenchener]

I don't buy into the 'lets use shit boots indoors' mentality. How can you make productive use of your time if your feet are all over the place (*more than usual) because of sloppy/poppy shoes?

You're in good company: Big Ron was sternly critical of the "let's use old/trashed EBs for brick edge cruising" mentality in Fawcett On Rock.

A long time ago now, but plus ca change ...

[Jaspersharpe]

Your feet are not 'just al over the place' on everything because you've got average boots on!

Tell that to the beastmaker board.

Word.