[Bubba]

8a.nu[/url]"]
"Dai Koyamada sent another hard one. The 25-move problem on a 145-degree wall in Yatsue, Kagoshima was named Methuselahzation "

[squeek]

A few of the top players in world bouldering should shoot over there for a whistle stop tour of all these hard problems and see what they think.  Could be a pretty good trip, there's quite a few now.

[a dense loner]

25 moves is not a boulder prob, neither are any of the things in that cave in the gramps. as hideously hard as they obviously r. these r full on routes. french grades r given to traverses etc. anastasia was compared as f8c+ by vickers not a font grade. n thats tiny compared to some of the things out there gettin font grades. crazy!!
n dreamtime is 22 moves n a boulder prob thus my argument breaks down. damn  
still too many moves for my book. luckily i wouldn't be able to string 2 together.

[squeek]

>anastasia was compared as f8c+ by vickers not a font grade

Yeah, but that's just because he thinks it's very painful watching mickey mouse prancing around with brooms.  :D

I know what you mean though, all these hard problems aren't getting harder moves, just more hard moves.  What does the whole traverse of Longridge get?

[Adam Lincoln]

>anastasia was compared as f8c+ by vickers not a font grade

Yeah, but that's just because he thinks it's very painful watching mickey mouse prancing around with brooms.  :D

I know what you mean though, all these hard problems aren't getting harder moves, just more hard moves.  What does the whole traverse of Longridge get?

Whole traverse of Longride, if you do it the easy way is 8b/+. If you take the harder version, its 8c+

[dobbin]

is the harder version going from right to left? sure thats what the weasel told me. Of course, I probably dreamt the whole thing in one of my Avid Merrion of the climbing world stalking dreams.

[Adam Lincoln]

is the harder version going from right to left? sure thats what the weasel told me. Of course, I probably dreamt the whole thing in one of my Avid Merrion of the climbing world stalking dreams.

Nah the easier one takes the high break all the way, then into Bend Of the rainbow and then along at mid height

The harder version takes a pretty much central line all the way along, and into bend and so on...

[a dense loner]

how to get from a new font 8c prob to longridge in 2 easy moves  :?

[c.j.d.]

Vickers has not actually repeated Anasthesia, as he missed out the first couple of moves (crux) thus ascending a go'ey V12 (8b+/8c route grade?).  This is from a good source.  Not being an arse or anything, but this happens quite a bit on various problems, on repeats by various people.  Fuck me, I'm in for it know aren't I.  Whilst I'm at it, he did not repeat Sway On (V11) in wales either, but a very similar V8/+ to the right - Juicy eh?  I think this means gaskins got the second ascent, confirming the grade, in two very short sessions.  Yowza. Sorry, I don't know whats got into me - own medicine maybe?

[Adam Lincoln]

Vickers has not actually repeated Anasthesia, as he missed out the first couple of moves (crux) thus ascending a go'ey V12 (8b+/8c route grade?).  This is from a good source.  Not being an arse or anything, but this happens quite a bit on various problems, on repeats by various people.  Fuck me, I'm in for it know aren't I.  Whilst I'm at it, he did not repeat Sway On (V11) in wales either, but a very similar V8/+ to the right - Juicy eh?  I think this means gaskins got the second ascent, confirming the grade, in two very short sessions.  Yowza. Sorry, I don't know whats got into me - own medicine maybe?

Maybe its harder then if Gaskins agreed with the grade! What with his strong little fingers

[Huffy]

I think this means gaskins got the second ascent, confirming the grade, in two very short sessions.  Yowza. Sorry, I don't know whats got into me - own medicine maybe?

Alright Chris,

I remember scouse mouse writing up a first ascent of the black wall on Gallt naming it 'Crimps of Doom' or sumfin a couple of days after you bagged it...

Good problem that one... :wink:

Huffy

[Naylor]

I was there first! :wink:

[Pantontino]

Huffy, I think that was me. I did it as wind up - CJD can get very emotionally attached to his projects. Of course it is my job (as his mate) to take the piss out of him as much as possible.

I can't even remember who I pretended to be - maybe Ian Fitz? Bloody memory is going (along with my bladder control, eyesight and hearing...)

[Greg C]

I think your all forgetting Si O'Conors repeat of Anesthesia, be interseting to know how he did it? Oh and Isla De Encanta while he's at it!  :smokin:

 

Oh I need to get this in for next time the "What O'Conor uses for comparrison to his grading" debate comes about...
Little Women "The Giant Stone" at Little Font is V11 thats Font8a thats English 7a thats Peak B13 but is definately NOT V14!!!!

This comes from the second ascentionist, think its quite an important point being as this is his CV for claiming V15!!

[Naylor]

Mr Panton (or anyone else who might know)
I`m off to Buoux in April, do ya know if we`ll be able to get into the campsite in Apt after dark, as we`re not getting there `till late, or is it a first night in the car?

[Pantontino]

The last time I was on that campsite was in 1993 - so I guess I'm not the best person to ask!

It did used to get locked at night though.

Ooh the nostalgia...Mark Hundleby endlessly juggling oranges - boy could he handle those big fleshy balls of fruit!, Gav Ellis' and Rob Wilson's regulation haircut service (i.e. draw a line around yer head just above the ears and shave everything below it off.) Gav and Boyley's Biffa Bacon/Arsolo van...jumpers for goalpost...nurse!...NURSE!

[Bubba]

Ah yes, happy memories of that campsite  :D

And a thankyou to Intermarche for providing us with free food for the duration  :wink:

[Naylor]

Got there last time in a mini, 24 hours it took.
Did`nt get back though. :wink:

[dobbin]

The one and only time I made it there I was so drunk I really thought I was going to die.