[shark]

Weight 11.7-4 (at last it’s coming off)  Aims

M Noon. DB , Max hangs and pulls Eve. Foundry 40 deg board 13 move circuit 4 reps – 3 sets. Think I should start working a different circuit (still waiting for beta from Lockyer)
T  Eve. 4x4 routes session with Duncan at Edge. Good session
W. Noon. New improved Db, hangs and pulls session incorporating the Preston Complex #1. Meant to do an eveniong session but too busy ferrying kids around.
T. Eve. Shed 6 x 10 reps of hard moves. Brill session. Should have done aerocap after but had supper and a glass of wine instead. 
F. Eve. Foundry with boys. Continuity on routes (4 routes 10 mins continous top roping/climbing)
S. Secret Garden with Norton sieging Dick Williams - managed to do all the hard moves. 2 pints of Pale Ale in Rising Sun afterwards. Ticked off by barman for eating a tesco sandwich. Intended to do aerocap in evening but didn’t - again     
S. PM. Meant do aerocap bouldering but sacked it off to boulder on steep section of wave with Seb. Late eve. Dragged myself into shed to do AeroCap circuits (to keep Tommy off my back). 20 reps of 20 move circuit with 60secs rest between reps.

Ace week. Lost 3lbs and bouldering really well (for me) - both things possibly connected. Booked cheap flights for a long weekend in Millau climbing at Cantorbre in a fortnight  . Heavy training week this week. If weather good next Sunday will try Dick Williams again.

[tommytwotone]

LTG: 7b by end of 2011

M - Nowt
T - Beastmaker session, really good - mixed up repeaters with some duration hangs while watching a Bollywood movie!
W - Depot with the missus - fingers a bit creaky but just packed the mileage in.
T - Nowt, out in the eve with work on a 10 pin bowling night. Sure this does not qualify as training.
F - Definitely nowt as a result of ale intake previous night
S - Cracking day at Brimham, did a 6c in a few goes and came v close to finally closing the book on Fantasy League
S - Brief session at Cliff before getting called away

Pretty slack week all in all, though had a very positive day on Sat on account of firstly some decent weather on a weekend (finally!) and secondly working out the crux sequence of FL.

[al123]

STG- more grit 7a's
MTG-on sight more E1's and E2's

M- core session, felt ok.
T- nothing
W- 8K run in about 1 hour, had a few stops along the way to look at various climbs.
T- nite soloing at bamford, didnt do much but spotted a nice E3 to high ball, trango 2
F-nothing
S-nothing
S- burbage , started very badly, got a sequence on the nose but couldnt be that bothered with it.  climbed another 2 6b's in only a couple of goes so nice to know im consolidating at the grade.

An all right week but not brilliant

[cheque]

STG- E1 and 6C on grit this season
MTG (2011)- E2, 7A, 7a
LTG- onsighting long E4+ routes by end 2013

M- Nothing.
T- Indoor routes. Totally went for it on steep endurance. Got so pumped I could barelt grip a water bottle or belay, but only after a satisfying amount of climbing.
W- Ill. So ill.
T- Even worse.
F- Still ill.
S- Great conditions, new car, stilll ill. 
S- Still ill. 

Bleugh.

[Luthor]

STG  - Stay psyched (going well so far), train hard, not get injured...
MTG  - F8a Sport route in 2011. Add to the fairly small list of font 7b bouldering ticks.


Mon     - busy / rest
Tue     - bouldering sess at works.
Wed     - rest, ill with cold
Thurs   - Lunchtime interval sess on 20° board @ Works.
Fri     - rest
Sat     - nice trip out to Almscliffe
Sun     - rest

[Barratt]

Recovering from illness. 

Tues, try climbing and give up.
Thurs, arms killing from Tuesdays 20mins, try some circuits but have nothing in the tank.
Sat, Almscliff. Gorgeous day, t shirts in the sun. Nothing new of note done, still feeling a bit wasted.

Hope to pick up the training again next week, can't believe how much this virus has taken out of me!

[Muenchener]

STG: Strength Phase of Winter Training Plan. Complete Thalkirchen red & green bouldering circuits by 5th March. Current score: 11/18
          200 practice falls before Easter. Current score: 22
MTG: Mittlere Weisse Wand, Konstein. 6b os in Arco at Easter
LTG: 7a rp; classic big Vs / VIs at local crags (Kaisergebirge, Wetterstein etc.) e.g. West Face Totenkirchl

Light training week after last week's heavy training week.

M:
T:
W: bodyweight & dumbells session: weighted pullups, shoulders, core
T: Boulderwelt. Skipped coaching session at office gym boulder cave to go & play instead. Was a good play, though. Ticked about ten problems on the new 6A-ish circuit, four of them flashed. On the last iteration of this circuit in October I only ticked three or four problems in my first session, so this feels like significant progress.
F: yoga
S: Bouldering, Thalkirchen. Fsck! They reset my target circuits! This feels like a setback, until I tick eleven of the new problems in one or two goes each. Some of them feel about v. diff, suggesting that the local routesetters should give some thought to the consistency of their grading; but some don't, suggesting that this training malarkey may be working. yyfy?
S: Snowboarding, Lermoos

New STG: Perform respectably in boulderwelt comp on 19th Feb (by following the lagers  get thin & flash stuff plan?) How to make this goal objectively measurable, when I have very little idea of what to expect? Don't come last.

[ummagumma]

STG: Climb 7A by end of March

M Rest
T Bouldering I/D. Tiv. Good session.
W Rest
T Bouldering I/D. OAV. Extended Lunchbreak session. mainly long problems.
F Bouldering I/C. Tiv. Long Routes. 3 1/2 hrs of endurance.
S Rest
S Bouldering O/D. Tum. Weather was fantastic. Cold and sunny. Problem from last year, 6C, done. Came close on a 6C+.

Solid Week. Sensing progress albeit snailpace.

[nai]

Aims

M - Froggatt - much better than last week, did Ape Drape in a few goes then went on to try Rambeau which was closer but still no cigar.
t - short core & weights session concentrating on back/shoulders/triceps
w - watched football, drank too much
t - hangover, ate too much
F - good day at RHS, did 3 7As but didn't get over to Cratcliffe to try Jerry's or T Crack as planned.
S zip
S max hangs, weighted pullups, core.

[tomtom]

STG 7B+

A good/med week after last weeks successes..

M: Quick pitstop at Almscliff on the way back to Hull... brief warm up and a play on underhand. Felt week as a kitten - and skin was in a bit of a state after saturdays exploits. Followed by  in the evening
T: Evening trip to Depot with the Hull gents... Weak again, but went through the motions and had a good work out
W: Rest work etc..
T: Morning visit to Almscliff. Warm up and concerted 1-2 hour session on Underhand. Felt week and feeble to start with but after 1/2 hour or so warmed up and a couple of attemts certainly had that 'effortless flow' that sometimes happened. Still failed! but in the last couple of go's (before core failure) managed to slap and hold intermediate before main hold to get.. she's a cruel mistress Almscliff.. frustrates me for an hour or so, then gives me a glimpse of success just before body failure 
F: rest & curry (lunch and dinner!  )
S: rest and football (0:0 with QPR  )
S: Went to Harmers wood, changed, pulled on, got changed, headed back. My head was just not in the right place, and I couldnt even make myself go through the motions... cold, felt tired, zero syke.. strange. I went home and forced myself into a beastmaker session in the evening. Felt better...

[GCW]

Short term goals
Do my local cross country (5.8km) in under 30 minutes (big ask I think)
Sort out the bad knee.
Tick something, anything, from my 2011 aims list!

Medium Term goals
Climb font 7c in 2011 (still a bit ambitious).
Continue trying to keep the weight down (aim for 83kg)- also a bit ambitious!
Do my Winter Hill run in under 43:12 (average 10kmh).
Finish off my remaining esoteric Lancs Quarry projects.




M-  Nothing.
T-  Nothing.
W-  Nothing.
T- An hour at Wilton One failing on 2 of my old Nemeses, although some progress made.  Felt fat and weak.
F-  Nothing.
S-  Nothing.
S-  Nothing.

Monday weigh in of 87kg. 

[chris05]

STG: 7A, More 7A's
MTG: 7A+/7B

M: 40l swim (crawl), 4m run, core (500) & weights
T: pull-ups, press-ups, BM (repeaters, 3x30 moves foot on, max hangs), core (500) & weights
W: 40l swim (crawl), 4m run & core (500)
T: Bolton complex (x4), pull-ups, press-ups, Bolton complex (x4) & core (500)
F: swim 40l (crawl)
S: bouldering at Chasecliffe, RHS and Cratcliffe. Managed my first 7A (cave RH) and should have got a second 7A but failed on the last move due to running out of energy.
S: rest and curry

Great week, felt really good to finally get the 7A ticked, slightly annoyed not to get the second but it should provide a fairly quick tick another time.

[andybfreeman]

Goals - as before

M - Rest - no skin and lots of aches after beasting myself at stanage at the weekend
Tu - TCA - only managed 2 hours due to lack of skin. On sighted new black 7a/b circuit on the less steep board. Repeated some problems with tips taped but soon ran out of things I could achieve without making my tips bleed!
W - Skin still shit so opted to try AeroCap. Can only conclude that my aerobic capacity is very low as I managed 4 blocks of between 8 and 15 minutes - total 50min continual climbing. Worked up a serious pump and so can only assume it did some good!
Th - Rest - mate's birthday dinner.
Fr - taken out to lunch by clients (3 meals out in 2 days is probably pushing the concept of a cheat day!). Had a good short session at TCA for more AeroCap as it seemed a good use of a shorter session. Managed 35 mins continuous climbing so a massive improvement on Wed. After session headed to a friend's house for round 3; slap up dinner with cocktails, an awesome bottle of 2006 Intriga Cab Sauv and the 83 vintage port that I'd been saving since Christmas 2009 .
Sa - rest
Su - decent TCA session - repeated various orange problems, black circuit and purple circuit. Good progress on new red hard (7c+?) circuit, all moves done but some way off link

Weight = 67.5kg this morning which is back on track. Average for week = 68.16kg which is on target for 1/3 kg weight loss pw every week before font at Easter.

[duncan]

MTG - E5/7b/V5

M-  Shoulder stability routine
T-  Arch: Anaerobic (4x4 V1-V2)
W-  Arch: Anaerobic (5x4 V0-V2)
T- Stinking cold
F-  Stinking cold (brief shoulder stability routine)
S-  Dancing Ledge: 6 routes to 6c, various amounts of doggery to unfreeze fingers; lapped a 6a.  Cold, windy and grey, crag deserted as usual: you sensible people!
S-  Exhausing family stuff (brief shoulder stability routine).  Cold still hanging in there.

Various degrees of under-the-weatherness all week but some training momentum maintained.

[fried]

Decided to do less climbing and more shoulder stabalizing stuff.

Monday - 1h Antagonistics
Tuesday - Ditto
Wednesday - Ditto
Thursday - Indoor session, lots of easy stuff, first time ever using a weight room, apparently the dude in charge has disappeared so there was noone to give advice, but watched a few people and gave it a go. Felt good to break up the climbing a bit ( 1h climb/ 30mins gym/ repeat)
Friday - 1h Antagonistics/ shoulder stuff
Saturday - Moved furniture, fucked shoulder up again
Sunday - Jog 30 mins. Sunny but car being repaired.

Will attempt to take my shoulder X-ray/scan back to my doctor (taken 9 months ago!)

Weight 76.5kg (1kg more than last week and that was only after sweating off half a kilo, GF assures me it's just muscle)

[aly]

LLTG: 7C and 8a
MTG: get back to climbing without finger hurting,  lose a couple of kilos
M/STG: sort out shoulder, do one armer and front lever and heal my wafer-thin skin

Mon: New training regime, fingerboard repeaters session [6s on, 4 s off] x6, then 1 min rest, then x5, then 1 min rest, then x4
3/4 mins rest then repeat with new grip (x6).  Short pull up and lever session too.  Tough and pinches the skin a bit
Tues: No climbing, cardio workout doing intervals session in park.
Weds: Fingerboard repeaters session, same as monday but increased a few grips for 1 second (7/3)
Thurs: Indoor bouldering, mainly on the 45 board at Stoke.  Skin sore, but fingers feeling strong(ish)
Fri: Pull up session and quick fingerboard session (deadhangs, no repeaters).
Sat: Quick boulder in yorkshire, progress on project but conditions weren't ideal, too cold for much
Sun: Quick session at Craig y Longridge, cold and got shut down by everything. 

Goals for next week or so:
Make sure I get at least 2 cardio sessions in per week
Should get outside a couple of days this week, combine with fingerboard sessions but altering grip types (preserve skin)

[Nibile]

mon - wailing wall. short problems on pinches and crimps. a bit tired but good. one armed the small rungs on the beast!!! well psyched.
tue - rest.
wed - Beast. one arm dead hangs. good, I am progressing on the pockets.
thu - rest.
fri - one armers. 1 max rep x 8 sets, frontal. tired.
sat - rest.
sun - wall. 2 hours, tried only two problems. one went down, the other is well hard.

[chris_j_s]

Aims: UK 7a onsight, 7b+ redpoint in 2011

Given a boost this week. Found out that the board I was doing circuits on at Ingleton was cranked quite a few degrees steeper whilst I was ill, which explains why I found it quite so tough after 10 days off with flu!

M:
T: Ingleton PE Circuits. Managing some harder circuits but running out of gas a little too early for my liking. Patience needed...
W:
T:
F:
S: Depot PE circuits. Haven't been here for ages and it did show a bit. Struggled on anything longer than about 30 moves which tallies quite well with the length of circuits I've been doing at Ingleton. Interesting how there was such a defined cut off point for my PE - at about 35 moves failure was guaranteed on anything 7a and above. Something to work on.
S: Ingleton PE Circuits. Tried to intoduce some longer circuits to address the weakness discovered at the Depot. Very tired though so was only going well for about an hour before my arms gave up.

Upped the number of sessions from 2 to 3 this week as I feel the need to crack on a bit to be ready for routes in the spring. Feel like I may be getting back towards my previous best now.

[Andy F]

Goals - 8b, 7B+

Mon- Rest
Tues - good session at the Hanger, finished off a few things I'd not done
Wed - Meal for the wife's birthday
Thurs - nowt
Fri - beastmaker, 40 min session
Sat - family
Sun - Burbage. Did a couple of 7a's quickly, flailed on some harder (7B+ - 7C) stuff, realised I have no grit 'feel'. Felt rough later on, got home collapsed on the couch, ate nothing.

[i_a_coops]

Time for some specific goals I think...
This week: Loads of P.E./Stamina training
Next weekend: The Terrace
Weekend after: 8a in Cheddar

M -
T - Brookes. Bouldering followed by circuits. Skin is PAINFUL
W - Core
T - Core, bar
F - Core, bar
S - rest
S - The Roaches. Got some decent mileage ticks,  consolation for not getting back on The Terrace! Newsflash: C3PO is impossible. Evening: Foundry, bouldering followed by traversing. Why do I not live near somewhere like this?!

I now have a very nice shaped bouldering pyramid on 8a.nu. But there are no 7Cs on it yet, so I'm going to be an antisocial git next weekend and get the bus to Burbage on my own if I can't get a lift!

[205Chris]

My 200th post, here goes.

STGs: Recover from trashed Achilles heel. Chip Shop Brawl / Tierdrop / Sole Power.

MTGs: Sport 8a, Powerband

M: Nada
T: Nada
W: Light works sessions. Planned to do a few of the easier circuits but ran into a friend and ended up getting sucked into climbing on the comp wall. Rubbish session really, though did manage a problem I'd failed on before.
T: Nada
F: Nada
S: Round 3 with My Apple at Rowtor. Still no tick and not really any progress over the previous week either which is disappointing. Manage to salvage something by doing the Yoghurt Hypnotist then Dry Wit in a Wet Country over at the Stride for another highball tick.
S: Quick 45 minutes on the trackside boulder.

Frustrating week. Took it easy this week hoping to climb well at the weekend but it didn't pay off. Big drop in psyche after Saturday but glad that I managed something. On the plus side my heel seems to have recovered and I ticked off another (brilliant) highball.

Off to font in 8 weeks time. Need to work out where it's all going wrong then get strong and psyched again.......

[Falling Down]

M - Early start, train to London then flew to Aberdeen - Hard bodyweight circuit +
T - Nowt - slight DOMS
W - Nowt (flight delayed, got back home at 2:00am) - Major DOMS
T - Nowt (very long day at work 15 hours)
F - Nowt
S - Chores and packing then a couple of hours at a very cold Baldstones, easy stuff and failed to repeat Stall.
S - Up at 4:00am to fly to Kazakhstan via Amsterdam.

Not a great week.  Just working and travelling too much to actually fit any climbing and training in and too tired on Friday and Saturday.

The bodyweight/weights/deadhang session was good though.  For info: 10 minute warmup (2.5k row) then 5 bodyweight exercises (air squats, pressups, situps, pullups, burpees), each one done in 8 rounds of 20 seconds on (for form not pace) with 10 seconds rest (e.g. for four minutes in total) with 1 minute rest between each exercise. 5 minutes rest. Then 30 seconds of bodyweight deadlifts followed by 30 seconds deadhanging done back to back for  four rounds.

In Kazakhstan until Friday pm so will only get something done this weekend - Arse

[nai]

Manage to salvage something by doing Dry Wit in a Wet Country over at the Stride for another highball tick.

I did that Friday, it's lovely isn't it, what did you think of the grade, felt very soft for the V7 the definitive gves it.

Off to font in 8 weeks time. Need to work out where it's all going wrong then get strong and psyched again.......

Currently experiencing a similar problem, the pysche's there but something ain't firing quite right.  When you off to Font, I'm there for a week from 2nd April?

[Pebblespanker]

STG Font 7a, and as close as I can get to F7a by end 2011,
MTG English 6c in some shape or form by end 2012
LTG to have functional fingers post 50!

Current status: fat and unfit after a month of post xmas flu and recovering, not helped by age (48), job (very busy manager) or the fact the fiance is down until mid Feb so there are other distractions
Now that I am feeling 95% recovered from the lurgy the fingerboard sessions will begin again this week  Also must do something about regular core strength work, Bruce Lee I most definitley am not lol! 

Weight 11st 10lb

M - nothing
T - nothing
W- nothing
T- nothing
F- nothing
S- nothing
S - Gardoms North for the 3rd time this month to try and get Soft Groove nailed - failed again!Should have it next time for my first proper Peak V5/Font 6c. Managed several other probs including smooth repeat of Font 6b/+ roof so not too unhappy

[Serpico]

W. Noon. New improved Db, hangs and pulls session incorporating the Preston Complex #1.