[comPiler]

Glendo - high in the scree
29 January 2011, 11:36 pm



Went on a spacer mission with Ped. I had spied a few big blocks high up in the scree near the foot of the crag that I was keen to check out. Scrambled up without any pads and the line was pretty nice, the landing wasn't too bad a mixture of grass and rocks. About 30mins of patio'ing sorted it but the first move is quite a big jump and it was intimidating without any pads. Will have to go back. The codename is dry arse.

Source: Bouldering Ireland

[comPiler]

Cover of guide
1 February 2011, 5:30 pm

This is the cover of the guide. Its Rob Hunter on Cloud9 on Chimney Rock Mountain in the Mournes. Taked by Dave Hunter. Its a great shot and as soon as I saw it I knew it was right for the cover. I wanted something with a good bit of sky for the title. As much a landscape as a climbing shot - I think the photo would be pretty good without the climber and spotter. Cloud9 is supposed to be one of the best problems in the Mournes and Chimney Rock is a fair slog up the hill. The other candidates were not near as good as this shot. Thanks Rob and Dave...

Source: Bouldering Ireland

[grimer]

great cover pic, looks fab 

[cofe]

Wow.

[fried]

Lovely, and the climber gives it a sense of scale.

[Duma]

That looks brilliant!

[DubDom]

Brilliant, I am ridiculously excited by this

[slackline]

  looking forward to the guide

[comPiler]

A first flick through the guide
1 February 2011, 6:02 pm



Got the advance copies of the guide today. I'm very happy, was a bit nervous, a whole years work culminating in a flick through the book. The print is super sharp and the color is pretty good thought the fold eats a bit more paper than I expected but it doesn't really matter. I hope people are impressed. Its a great feeling to have it sitting on the table here beside me. All day I keep picking it up and flicking through it, you think I would be sick of it...

Source: Bouldering Ireland

[SA Chris]

Shout when it's going out for distribution. Not got any bog reading for a while.

[Dave Flanagan]

Shout when it's going out for distribution. Not got any bog reading for a while.

Will do. It should be available online in a week and in the shops shortly after that.

[SA Chris]

And in shops in Aberdeen by the turn of the decade. Will get it online.

[tomtom]

Shout when it's going out for distribution. Not got any bog reading for a while.

Will do. It should be available online in a week and in the shops shortly after that.

Worth a punt on a banner ad? Not trying to drum up business for UKB, more that it'll get more exposure there as its a little buried in the thread here (looks top btw..) 

[comPiler]

Damp day
23 February 2011, 6:23 pm

Headed for Mall Hill but it was wet so went to check out a boulder I had spotted not far from the road near Lough Dan. It was ok. 3 problems to be done but nothing too exciting.

 Then headed to The Scalp on the way home and tried Dark Angle. Diarmuid did the SS.



Source: Bouldering Ireland

[comPiler]

Pierre's questions
23 February 2011, 9:42 pm

Pierre is writing an article for french climbing mag Grimper about bouldering in ireland. He asked me a few questions and I have included them and my answers here.

1.       Are you the Irish Bouldering Guru?

Look at  it this way – if I was on mastermind my specialist topic would be bouldering in  Ireland. I’m just a trainspotter. People assume I’m a wad and are then a bit  confused when they meet me.

2.       What are your name, age and familial status?

You  know my name. 33. Married.

3.       Do you consider yourself a true Dub?

Suppose.

4.       Do you remember your first climbing achievement?

Do you  mean the first time I climbed? It was either with scouts or on an outdoor course  I did when I was 11 or 12. I haven’t any achievements of  note.

5.       I’ve been told you were once a scout. Is that true? Do you think this is where  your quest for exploring the Irish bouldering potential started?

Technically  I still am as I’m a scout leader. Yes I was in scouts. This was when I grew  interested in the outdoors. A lot of the early bouldering I did was in north  Wicklow, places like Knocknagun. We would walk or cycle up and camp. It was as  much, if not more, about the camping and all that that entails. For years we  would spend weekends in Glendo camped in the forest or amoung the boulders.  Bouldering during the day and sitting around the fire drinking at night. I  always used to feel sorry for the other climbers as they headed off back to the  carpark and home when we would have the whole valley to ourselves as the  darkness descended.

6.       Were there any other people from the Dublin mafia in the scouts?

Mafia?  Some of my friends who I climb with were. I have always climbed with my friends.  I suppose I’m Iucky that way. A lot of them whom I climbed with in the past no  longer climb but they are still my friends. I have always been interested in the  outdoors.  

7.       Did you already know many of the places you later visited as a boulderer? If so,  were they better or worse than what you remembered?

The  impression a places gives to a boulderer and a non-boulderer can be very  different. Yes I remember being in Lough Bray and Glendo between the time I  first climbed and started to climb independently. I received a tip off about  Glenmacnass from my friend Kev who had spied the boulders from a distance while  on a scout hike.

8.       Why did you start bouldering? And with who?

Ever  since I started climbing independently I was a boulderer. At first it was  because we didn’t have any gear of our own. In my early years I spent a huge  amount of time bouldering in the quarry, particularly Ivy Wall. Probably why I  never go there anymore. Once I started college I had use of a rack and I  gradually acquired my own. For a while I was pretty into trad climbing.  Diarmuid, Ped, Kev and I started developing some new routes in Raven’s Glen near  Maulin in Wicklow. It was great fun, cleaning and climbing. At this point I  would of bouldered in Glendo a few times. But once we got tried of the faff of  new routing our focus turned to bouldering and I haven’t looked back  since.

9.       Which routes have you climbed in Dalkey quarry?

I’d say  I have done most of the easy ones and none of the hard ones. I once tried to  onsight a route called Praying Mantis in the quarry. Fortunately I placed a  siderunner which was the only piece of gear that held when I fell a few feet  from the top. In a way this is my best and worst memory of the quarry. I did  love the place once. I used to spend so much time there soloing or  bouldering.

10.    Are you doing any trad-climbing lately?

None  for years.

11.    Did you ever have to argue about ethics? Do you remember your worst/best  discussions?

I have  had lots of discussion but no arguments. I once talked to the infamous Si  O’Connor on the telephone which was pretty weird.

12.    Bouldering or sport? Bouldering or trad ? Ever had to pick a side?

I have  never sport climbed. I choose bouldering over trad all the time. I do like  soloing but haven’t done much of it in the last few years.

13.    What is your occupation at the moment? Any plan to change in the future?  

I’m an  unemployed house husband. As for the future I have no idea. Would like to do  another book, have loads of ideas but I’m not sure how viable they are. I’m sure  something will come up. I’m in no rush.

14.    The recession has probably affected your climbing. Was that good or bad?  

You are  right. The reason I wrote my guide was cause I was made redundant from my job. I  felt it was now or never. I could have written it in my spare time but it would  of taken years and I would have ended up hating it before the end. Quick and  painless is the way. I’m glad the way things have worked  out.

15.    Your hardest ticks?

Bouldering  : I would say I might have done 6c at some stage. Somehow somewhere. Definitely  no more.Trad :  E1 I would think but soft quarry E1.Sport :  NoneOther :  None

16.    Have you visited every single area detailed in your guide? If not, how many of  the places described in your guide have you actually visited  yourself?

I just  counted it up and I haven’t been to 6 (Rocky Bay, The Loaf, Fanad, Doagh,  Rubonid, Greyabbey) so thats 84 out of 90 which is 93%, pretty good I reckon.  Basically I ran out of time and couldn’t get to them. I couldn’t find Rubonid  actually.

17.    You have compiled 5 PDF versions of the guide since 2000. What were the main  issues you had to discuss, apart from the obvious problem of grades?  

I never  have any hassle about grades, they aren’t a bit deal, I don’t spend ages staring  into space wondering is Andy’s Arete really 7a or 7a+. I laugh when I hear or  read people take them as fact. While I’m massively grateful to all those who  every contributed to the guide I can’t help wonder about the rest, the silent  majority who contribute nothing. I’m not saying the irish climbing scene is any  worse than others in this regard but I do find it frustrating  sometimes.

18.    The format of the guide seems a popular one these days. What are your favourite  bouldering guidebooks? (I am referring to the actual products, not the  spots).

My main  inspiration was the Peak Bouldering Guide which is one of my favourites. If you  think about guides of a similar format – landscape A5 – and subject – bouldering  – are always going to look pretty similar. There are exceptions like Simon  Panton’s North Wales guide which is a one off. I like 7+8 but I’m not sure if it  is a good guide. It’s style is very extreme.

19.    ‘Ben’s Font’ became ‘Cloghogue’, but ‘Ayton’s Cave’ remained ‘Ayton’s Cave’. Any  comment?

Plenty.  I suppose part of the logic of that was that boulders in Cloghoge (I dropped the  U after doing more research) already had a name that described them pretty well.  Cloghoge means rocky place in Irish. And the river which runs within meters of  some of the boulders is called Cloghoge. When the Ayton’s Cave name came up I  didn’t like it. Still don’t. But after doing some research I couldn’t find a  name that referred to that part of the coast and Howth Cave was a bit too  general. So Ayton’s Cave didn’t have a name so Dave had a good claim on naming  it.

20.    You decided not to mention the first ascents in the guide because you said that  ‘one can never be sure it will be correct’. Holds break, boulders move – every 6  months in the case of Doolin - and vegetation grows. Clearly, your guide will be  incorrect before the end of the year - as all guide books do. Any  comment?

Part of  the reason I didn’t credit FAs alongside the description, name and grade was  that I didn’t know most of the FAs so it would of been a largely blank entry or  a ‘?’. I did consider listing FAs for the list of top 89 problems but in the end  the benefits of getting it right were out weighted by the hassle getting it  wrong would create.

21.    You  provide your readers with a list of 89 best problems, but what are your top  three?

I  haven’t done Echo Arete on Polldoo which is the best problem in Ireland I think.  I’m happy not to have done it on the basis that I will get it done at some  stage. There aren’t really two standouts. St Kevin’s Slab is a pretty cool piece  of rock and I like the way it came about. I was searching for photos of boulders  on the internet, as one does, and saw a tourist photo that had this nice looking  slab in it. I took note of it but had low expectations literally I thought it  was going to be too small. Low and behold it was a beautiful clean slab, the  perfect height and difficulty. It’s not often things work out that  well.

22.    Finally, are you ‘the short span’ of that title?

No. The  short span is mentioned in a poem by Geoffery Winthrop Young  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Geoffrey_Winthrop_Young

“In this short span between my finger-tips on the smooth  edge and these tense feet cramped to the crystal ledge I hold the life of  man.”

I liked  it very much then and still do.

Source: Bouldering Ireland

[comPiler]

The Scalp
8 March 2011, 6:34 pm

At the moment I'm trying to use The Scalp as my personal outdoor training area. I'm not the only one getting out there judging by all the chalk. My current goal is Gen Tilley. I have a good sequence from the stand start but getting there from the sitter is a different story. More work to do.

In one of many guide discussion with Diarmuid - he was my main sounding board, so kudoes to him - he said that the contents (I think we where talking about the Glendo circuits) of the guide would become definitive. It's was an intimidating concept and something I shrugged off.

In between burns on Gen Tilley, I wondered what grade was ie. what I had put in the guide. So I took it out of my bag and had a look 6b+ apparently. Ouch. What washed around my mind then was this funny feeling that that was the grade. For better or worse it was set in stone - pardon the pun. Since I got the book I have looked through it very little, after all I poured over every little detail for a year. The guy who wrote it is gone (I won't say dead that just sounds too dramatic) and in his place is this punter who uses the guide just like everyone else.

Beta on Gen Tilley welcome.

Source: Bouldering Ireland

[comPiler]

Pierre's questions for Michael Duffy
23 March 2011, 7:31 pm

Here is the second part of Pierre's research for his article about bouldering in Ireland. This time Pierre puts some questions to Michael Duffy.

Michael  Duffy is a talented young architect and, most importantly, the conqueror of the  "Big Squeeze" in Glendalough. "Wonderland" - this is how he decided to rename  this famous line after his FA - has become the hardest boulder problem in  Ireland. Pierre Fuentes, who's preparing an article on the recent developments  of Irish bouldering, asked him a few questions.

Pierre  Fuentes: What age are you?Michael  Duffy:  28.

PF:  Do you consider yourself a true Dub?  MD:  Scanda jacket, air max, Temple Theatre.

PF:  What do you consider to be your first climbing achievement?  MD:  Abseiling "the Ghost" slab in Dalkey Quarry, in Dublin.

PF:   How did you like climbing with Ronan Browner and Howard Hebblethwaite? Do you  consider them as your first mentors or was there anyone else before / after,  that have been more important to you? MD: I  was very lucky to have started climbing when I did. I was 12 and Ron and Wally  had just built the board in Church Avenue.  All my heroes trained or had climbed  there, Ron, Howard, Donnie, Grimer, even John Dunne had a problem on that  board.  Church Avenue and its climbers played a major role in Irish climbing and  to be taken under the wing of so many great climbers was a privilege.  Ron  blared out Rage against the Machine and trained us all up. He taught me  everything he knew took me on trips and sorted me out.  I owe him everything for  that, and my friends then are my family now.  That was an exciting and unique  generation to grow up in.  

PF:   Did you ever had to pick a side between bouldering and sport, or between  Bouldering and trad?MD:  Ireland has always been trad. High quality trad.  Which is great if you’re a  trad climber.  But if you wanted anything else you had to move away.  As soon as  you climbed E6 you left.  Bolting was out of the question and bouldering just  didn’t exist.  Of course the routes and boulders existed, but the mindset  didn’t.  Bouldering only really started to develop in the late 90’s and sport  more recently in the last 5 years so Ireland’s a late starter but things are  moving well now, people are training and it's all very exciting. People have  loads they can go at now and hopefully they'll stay.

PF:   Are you still unemployed? How do you manage? MD: It’s  a bit like being on parole and you're not allowed to leave the country without  permission.  And getting paid a week what you used to get paid a day isn’t very  glamorous.  But that said, we're still lucky to have a decent welfare system  here.  When we graduated a couple of years ago, half my class ended up signing  on, the other half emigrated.  Jen and me just had a little boy last year so I’m  happily unemployed, lots of parenting with the odd bit of work here and there.  The kids’ coaching is voluntary. It’s been 10 years of study and lots of work,  too much work and now it’s no work, baby boy and climbing so I’m happy out.   Things will pick up again unfortunately.

PF:   Have you finished your studies? What’s your plan for the future,  professionally?  MD: 1  year left to complete part 3 before becoming a Senior Architect, need a job to  do it, thousands of us in the same boat it’s a mess.In 10 years to have  a big studio in Dublin working with my friends who will have all moved back by  then.

PF:   Do you think the recession has affected your climbing?MD: Less  work has its ups and downs.  Having more time doesn’t necessarily mean more  climbing, especially when there are babies involved, when you’ve less time you  try harder and when you’ve too much you become complacent so there’s a balance.   When work dried up it was an opportunity to explore and find lines, I wanted to  start climbing as well as I could and the only way to do that was to develop,  and that takes a life time compared to going out and repeating stuff.  

PF:   Your favourite ticks? MD:  Bouldering  :"Contact", 8a+, Carrigshouk. The move, the setting, perfect  Wicklow line. Trad : "Right wall", Dinas Cromlech in Wales.  Thought I  was dead, great line, great setting. Sport : "Chomolungma"  E6/F7a+, Dalkey Quarry, 3rd ascent at 14.  This would have  been considered a safe pegged sport route at the time but the line is getting  destroyed now because the pegs are falling out and getting badly replaced making  it dangerous to climb and chipping lumps out of the rock. This is destroying  what is arguably one of the best and most unknown lines in the country.  It’s a  strong and rare contender for retro bolting, 2 bolts would do it and, in a man  made quarry, conserving a fine line as opposed to damaging it further. Other :  Beating my heroes in the IBL’s.

PF:   Were you stuck on a plateau before building the Co-Op? Or did it not affect your  climbing abilities?MD:  I was  starting to lose interest.  I couldn’t see how to continue climbing here.  A  good facility was desperately needed in general, but personally I needed  somewhere to train for projects.

PF:   Do you think the Co-Op gave you the possibility to raise the general level of  the Dublin bouldering community, and therefore to gather motivated team to  establish your recent lines?MD:  Motivation.   The more of it the better.  And cohesion.  The Irish scene has always gone from  strength to strength but at a slow pace and with small circles of friends  scattered everywhere.  In a wet and wild country you could argue that an overall  scene and its standards only reflect the quality of its indoor facilities.  So  in Dublin when it rained everyone would split up or head back to home boards.   By the time we built the Co-Op Church Avenue was in a skip and UCD was crap, so  a new board seemed like a good idea.  And now there are 3 of them; there are  people training, people are starting to get to know each other more, people are  out a lot more together and people are motivated.  And naturally everyone starts  to get better when they’re climbing together, so I suppose the general level is  rising. It’s weird, you don’t know people now, you used to recognize everyone.   A team? I’m pretty antisocial.

PF:   Any problems with the Co-Op recently or is it safe to say that the Co-Op has a  long life ahead?MD:  Hopefully.   Until a bad ass bouldering centre comes along and gobbles them up.  But then  another board will come along.  There’ll always be boards.

PF:   Do you honestly think there is anyone in Dublin capable of climbing at your  level? And in Ireland?  MD: There has been for years and I’d imagine  there are more people we don’t know of yet. That’s the problem, so many of the  good climbers left Ireland.  Either you left, stayed and developed stuff or  trained till you got bored and stopped. Now with a good stock of rock to go at  and the secret mutants who stayed and kept training and all the new kids coming  into the sport I’d say you're gonna see some pretty freaky  shit.

Michael's recent first ascents also  include Contact, 8a+, Dutch Gold left, 8a, Primer, 7c and Super Bock, 7c in Co.  Wicklow ;  in Portrane, Leviathan, 8a ; and in the Black Valley of Co. Kerry,  the Astro, 7c+,  and Dusted, 7c.



Source: Bouldering Ireland

[Dave Flanagan]

I have no idea Toby.

[comPiler]

Pierre's questions for Michael Duffy - UPDATED
23 March 2011, 7:31 pm

Here is the second part of Pierre's research for his article about bouldering in Ireland. This time Pierre puts some questions to Michael Duffy.

Michael Duffy is a  talented young architect, photographer and climber.  Pierre  Fuentes, who's preparing an article on the recent developments of Irish  bouldering for Grimper asked him a few questions.

1.      Your Age?   28

2.      Are you a  true Dub (by mother and father at least)?  Scanda jacket, air max, Temple  Theatre.

3.      What do  you consider to be your first climbing achievement? Abseiling The Ghost  slab.

4.      How did  you like climbing with Ron and Howard? Do you consider them as your first guides  or were there any other before / after, that have been more important to you?  

I was very lucky  to have started climbing when I did. I was 12 and Ron and Wally had just built  the board in Church Avenue.  All my heroes trained or had climbed there, Ron,  Howard, Donnie, Grimer, even John Dunne had a problem on that board.  Church  Avenue and its climbers played a major role in Irish climbing and to be taken  under the wing of so many great climbers was a privilege.  Ron blared out Rage  against the Machine and trained us all up. He taught me everything he knew, took  me on trips and sorted me out.  I owe him everything for that, and my friends  then are my family now.  That was an exiting and inspirational generation to  grow up in.  

5.      What is  the toughest ideological discussion on climbing ethos that you can remember, and  with who?  

With myself.   Bolting.

6.      Did you  ever have to pick a side between bouldering and sport, or between Bouldering and  trad?

Ireland has always been trad. High  quality trad.  Which is great if you’re a trad climber.  But if you wanted  anything else you had to move away.  As soon as you climbed E6 you left.   Bolting was out of the question and bouldering just didn’t exist.  Of course  the routes and boulders existed, but the mindset didn’t.  Bouldering only really  started to develop in the late 90’s and sport more recently in the last 5 years  so Ireland’s a late starter but things are moving well now, people are training  and its all very exciting. People have loads they can go at now and hopefully  they stay.  

7.      Are you  still on the dole and if yes, for how long as it been going on? If no, how do  you manage? Do your kids climbing classes suffice?

It’s a bit like  being on parole and your not allowed to leave the country without permission.   And getting paid a week what you used to get paid a day isn’t very glamorous.   But that said were still lucky to have a decent welfare system here and I’m not  complaining.  When we graduated a couple of years ago half my class ended up  signing on, the other half emigrated.  Jen and me just had a little boy last  year so I’m happily unemployed at the moment, lots of parenting with the odd bit  of work here and there.  The kids’ coaching is voluntary.  It’s been 10 years of  study and lots of work, too much work and now it’s no work, baby boy and  climbing so I’m happy out.  Things will pick up again unfortunately.

8.      Have you  finished your architecture studies and when? 1 year left to fully qualify need a  job to do it, thousands of us in the same boat it’s a mess.

9.      What’s  your plan for the future, professionally? In 10 years to have a big studio in  Dublin working with my friends who will have all moved back by then.

10.   Do you think  the recession has affected your climbing (obviously it has but, positively or  negatively or both and how?) I’ll give you a tip, I think that without the  recession, Wonderland would still be the Big Squeeze but correct me if I’m  wrong.

Less work has its  ups and downs.  Having more time doesn’t necessarily mean more climbing,  especially when there’s babies involved, when you’ve less time you try harder  and when you’ve too much you become complacent so there’s a balance.  When work  dried up it was an opportunity to explore and find lines, I wanted to start  climbing as well as I could and the only way to do that was to develop, and that  takes a life time compared to going out and repeating stuff.

11.   Your  favourite ticks :

Bouldering :   Contact, Carrigshouk. The move, the setting, perfect Wicklow  line.Trad : Right wall, Dinas  Cromlech.  Thought I was dead, great line, great setting.Sport : Chomolungma E6, Dalkey Quarry,  3rd ascent at 14.  This would have been considered a safe pegged sport route at  the time (fr7a+) but the line is getting destroyed now because the pegs are  falling out and getting replaced making it dangerous to climb and chipping lumps  out of the rock. This is destroying what is arguably one of the best and most  unknown lines in the country.  It’s a strong and rare contender for retro  bolting, 2 bolts would do it, and in a man made quarry, conserving a fine line  as it was originally intended as opposed to damaging it further.Other : Beating my heroes  in the IBL’s.12.   Were you stuck on a  plateau before building the Co-Op? Or did it not change your climbing  abilities?I was starting to lose  interest.  I couldn’t see how to continue climbing here.  A good facility was  desperately needed in general, but personally I needed somewhere to train for  projects.13.   Do you think you have  been able to establish the recent lines because the Co-Op gave you the  possibility to raise the general level of the Dublin bouldering community, and  therefore to develop a proper motivated team?Motivation.  The more of it  the better.  And cohesion.  The Irish scene has always gone from strength to  strength but at a slow pace and with small circles of friends scattered  everywhere.  In a wet and wild country you could argue that an overall scene and  its standards only reflect the quality of its indoor facilities.  So in Dublin  when it rained everyone would split up or head back to home boards.  By the time  we built the Co-Op Church Avenue was in a skip and UCD was crap, so a new board  seemed like a good idea.  And now there are 3 of them; there are people  training, people are starting to get to know each other more, people are out a  lot more together and people are motivated.  And naturally everyone starts to  get better when they’re climbing together, so I suppose the general level is  rising, both North and South. It’s weird, you don’t know people now, you used to  recognize everyone.  A team? I’m pretty anti-social. 14.   Any problems with the  Co-Op recently? I mean, can I say long life to the Co-Op?Hopefully.  Until a bad ass  bouldering centre comes along and gobbles them up.  But then another board will  come along.  There’ll always be boards.15.   Do you honestly think  there is anyone in Dublin capable of climbing at your level? And in Ireland?  There has been for years  and I’d imagine there are more people we don’t know of yet.  That’s the problem,  so many of the good climbers left Ireland.  Either you left, stayed and  developed or trained till you got bored and stopped.   Now with a good stock of  lines to go at and the secret mutants who stayed and kept training and all the  new kids coming into the sport I’d say your gonna see some pretty freaky  shit.

First Ascents (best of),  including these over 200 first ascents around Ireland:

Wonderland 8b, Glendalough,  December 2010Contact 8a+, Carrigshouk,  December 2009People of the Sun 8a+,  Glendalough, March 2011Leviathan 8a, Portrane, May  2010 Dutch Gold left 8a,  Glendalough, Feb  2011Dutch Gold 8a, (with a top  out) Chris Davies FA,  GlendaloughSwitch 8a/7c+, The scalp,  July 2008Leftism 7c+, Glendalough,  December 2008Astro 7c/+, Black Valley,  Kerry, April 2010Primer 7c/7b+, The scalp, July  2008Super Bock 7c, Glendalough,  December 2010Exit Planet Dust 7c, Black  Valley, Kerry, April 2010White Lightning  7c/7b+, Black Valley,  Kerry, April 2010The Spunk 7c/7b+, Aytons Cave, Howth  2010Maneater 7c/7b+, Aytons Cave, Howth,  Summer 2010Neon Lights 7b+/c, Electric  Mountain 2008Sow your wild oats, 7b+,  Glendalough 2010Lemon Sole 7b+, Summer  2009Pascals’ ss 7b/+,  Glendalough 1997Electroshock 7b/+, December  2010Block Party 7b / E7, Dalkey  Quarry, Dublin, Summer 2009Big Al Qaeda 7b, Robin  Hoods Stride, Peak District, 2003Kinky Reggae ss 7b,  Glenmalure 2010The Mentalist 7a+,  Glendalough,  2009Bump in the Night  7a, Black Valley,  Kerry, April 2010Piece de resistance 7a,  Mall Hill 2009Permadry 7a, Glendalough,  2008Lip service 6c+, Electric  Mountain 2008Gen Tilly 6c, The Scalp  2008Sherpa Tensing  6c, Black Valley,  Kerry, April 2010Dub Step 6b+, Brimstone  West 2010Duffy Slap 6b, Glendalough  1997



Source: Bouldering Ireland

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Swim
27 March 2011, 9:43 am



Yesterday morning I went to check out a bit of coastline not far from the house that might have some potential for bouldering. The rock is mostly choss but some of the low down stuff has been washed by the waves into nice smooth rock similar to that of Portrane. I arrived at low tide and scrambled down to a small pebble cove with a cave at the back. The far walls were high cliff, I climbed down a shallow slab to the lip, the pebble beach was around 6feet below however the lip was very undercut. I stood there pondering if it was wise to jump down, my concern being getting back out. Suddenly my camera fell out of my pocket onto the beach and without any though I jumped down after it.

Soon as I landed I realised I was stuck. The walls overhung loads and were very smooth. The easiest spot to get back up was this steep and smooth runnel but it would be about 6c with rock shoes. I tried to build a platform out of stones and sand but it was never going to work. I wasn't panicking but was a little frantic. Tide was coming in a good rate so the only option was the swim. It wasn't far only about 10m to a ledge which I though I could get up on.

So I took the clothes off threw then up onto the ledge, I kept my shoes on for grip, my jocks for decency and my dryflow for warmt. The water was cold so I went in up to the waist and then came out and jumped around then got in and did the swim no problem. There was a little chop -3foot - so it was just a matter and timing when to go for the ledge.

Didn't feel cold when I got to the ledge, must of been the adrenaline as the water would of been 8degrees at the most. So it all turned out fine in the end but it could of been serious if the sea had been bigger or I had to swim a lot further to get out.

It was so stupid to jump in, I could of easily got the camera out using the strap from my pad.

Source: Bouldering Ireland

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Glanekeera
28 April 2011, 8:02 pm

Went for a walk up and around Turlough Hill and Glanekeera today. Weather was cracking with a decent cold breeze so it never got too hot. Walked up the road from Wicklow Gap to the top. I can confirm there is no bouldering in the quarry. Further north along the ridge are some outcrops and a few boulders, the boulders are ok there might be one or two decent problems.  The right arete on the below photo looks good and the landing is flat.



The north facing outcrop has a few easy slabby highballs on it and the one facing west has at least one nice project - the line a meter or two from the right arete has an easy start and a steep blank finish. Part of the reason I went there was to see if the ground would be dry after this drought we are experiencing. It was pretty dry but you would still need a tarp.



I went on to Lough Firrib and followed the tiny stream that flows north out of the lake. This is Upper Glanekeera, the valley is huge and packed with rock, mostly outcrops but some boulders. After around 5 minutes I turned a corner to see this steep and sharp fin of rock with some huge jugs on it. Amazing line. There was holds all the way, it didn't look that hard and I got it first proper go. Brilliant moves. As good a problem as any of it's grade (5 maybe). An hour from the car though.

I had savage blisters at this stage, I think my socks were too thin for my leather boots. I was planning to go all the way down the valley but decided to cut across the river to the ESB road. Saw some nice stuff that I will defo go back for.



The above boulder/outcrop was around 30 feet high. The bottom overhangs alot. There is a lack of holds but someone might work something out. The ground was pretty marshy even after this dry spell so it would be a pond most winters. The rock was pretty dirty as well but this is one serious boulder. If there were a few more holds it would be a contender for a type problem.

Its a huge valley and it would take more than a day to explore it.

Source: Bouldering Ireland

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Glencree - Cloon
29 May 2011, 8:20 pm



Was walking around Crone last week and I spotted two boulders on the other side of the valley surrounded by new plantings. Went up with Hazel to check them out and there was two nice very white pretty clean granite boulders. Went back yesterday with my shoes and did two slab problems and the arete. The right slab was harder than I expected, being very blank and quite steep. It would be a nice challenge from somone with a gra for hardish blank smeary slabs. I know that no one is probably ever going to go there but I'm going to document it anyway just for completeness.



 Left boulder

1, Font 5, left side of slab, tricky start.

2, Font 4+, right side of slab.

Right boulder

3, Font 5, nice arete keeping right all the way.

4, Project, rounded rib to the right. No holds.

 Checked out a cluster of boulders further up the hillside but they were all too small. And I finally got to check out that quarry that has been in the back of my mind for years. Interesting place probably no climbing as such. There was a niceish vertical back wall that was a bit seepy but if it was somewhere like Dalkey it would be riddled with traverses and highball up problems



Map here http://goo.gl/maps/a6M8

Source: Bouldering Ireland

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3 days on Camaderry
5 June 2011, 11:40 am

Wandered around the slopes of Camaderry on Thursday. Came back on Friday with Ped and Diarmuid and our camping stuff.  Walked up from the hotel via the zigzags opposite the IMC hut and along the broad ridge leading to Camaderry East. Camped on the ridge and had a fire. Next day made out way back to the car via the mining village in Glendasan.  We climbed a few new problems. There is plenty of rock up there but not a huge amount of bouldering.

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]I did this arete. Pretty straighforward. [/td][td][/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Dropping into the cliffs on Saturday morning.[/td][/tr]

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The rounded slab. There is another line on edges up the right hand side.

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Ped trying the crack. Harder than it looks, the finish would need a good clean.[/td][/tr]

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Diarmuid on the blank finish to the best line we found.

Another view of the line. The SS has nice moves on great slopers.

Ped after laybacking the crack.

The line of holds is clearly visible here. Ped flashed a line to the right of the rib.

Diarmuid climbed the slab on this boulder. I also cleaned the arete on the other side but it was a bit too hard for us

Source: Bouldering Ireland

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Frustration
4 July 2011, 8:10 pm



So near yet so far.

Source: Bouldering Ireland

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Glenmalure
27 July 2011, 9:29 am

The plan was to go into the North Prision so Lee could show me around but we where told "under no circumstances" could that happen. Instead we drove around Lug to Glenmalure. The day which had been looking like rain got warmer and sunnier and stiller. Tried everything on the excellent Ballinafushogue Boulder but were repelled by hot rock and midge. Great boulder, plenty of climbing on it.

We then headed further down the road and scrambled up the north side of the hill to check out a roof we spotted. It turned out very nice. Steep and about 9foot to the first lip. Lee did 2 problems on it. Both with fairly involved topouts. There is an amazing project - similar but much better than Switch in The Scalp - to be done. Crimp, very steep, body tension finished with a slap to the slopey lip (you can see the line it take up the wall beside Lee's left foot).

There is more to be done up here.  This only doing new stuff thing is going pretty well.



Source: Bouldering Ireland