[tomtom]

BOOM! after 2-3 weeks of crapness a superb week with a YYFY.

STG 7B+

M: Rest
T: Almscliff. Good (though weak) session. Was shown some new beta on Underhand which gave some progress, also started figuring out a sequence for Stu's LH.. all good. Great to be back on the grit.
W: rest
T: Depot session with lads from Hull - met up with TommyTzone 
F: rest and beers (a few too many...)
S: Day out with FallingDown - long schlep accross the peak looking for dry rock, starting at Ramshaw, then inspections at a gopping Raven Tor and Rubicon (where oddly we saw Jarvis Cocker fondling the damp holds...) eventually ending up at a dryish Curbar. Usual repeats on the Trackside Boulder - then up to Seans Arete which went with the last lunge of the day good to meet up with Norton, Fatboyslimfast and Dolly.
Su: Rest my shredded finger tips!

Great week - strength coming back and my 2nd 7B (and in a session)... onwards and upwards, hoping the weather behaves!

[fried]

STG - 6A in the forest, 6B elsewhere. But mostly just to stop aching.

Monday - Indoor did a lot of easyish stuff, tried my 6B and 6B projects, got nowhere.
Tuesday - Gym 1h
Wednesday - Antagonistics
Thursday - Indoor short session, crap and achy, got nowhere on projects, lots of easy stuff.
Friday - rets
Saturday - Antagonistics
Sunday - 30 mins jog / Antagonistics

Weight 75.6kg

Not very good week but now I have a year contract for my wall I want to get my money's worth. Unfortunately 2 session a week with a 2 day break is as much as my feeble old wreck of a body can cope with at the moment.

Hopefully the missus will repair my car and I can get back to the forest soon....

[tommytwotone]

LTG: 7b by end of 2011

M: Nowt as was down in London for work
T: Back from the Smoke and then off for Beastmaker training - felt good, crucially didn't overdo it
W: Nowt
T: Went to Depot with the missus, good session thanks to a. lots of new stuff to try b. Flashed a few  of the new tough yellows and c. also met tomtom 
F: Beers after work, got home, beers at home
S: Bit ropey in the morning but still slogged out to Brimham, nothing doing though as was all pretty damp
S: Depot session, iced a fair few of the new V5-V7 reds

Annoying week as spent a lot of it in the office looking at great weather, only for it to crap out come the weekend. On the plus side, at least I'm getting value for money on my Depot pass...

[cheque]

STG- E1 and 6C on grit this season
MTG (2011)- E2, 7A, 7a
LTG- onsighting long E4+ routes by end 2013

M- Nothing.
T- Realised just how knackered my fingers were after the previous weekend. Nothing.
W- Stretching.
T- Nothing.
F- Nothing.
S- Indoor bouldering. Going steady so as to not knacker fingers again. Surprised by how much stronger I am at open-handing now!
S- Indoor routes/ bouldering. Redpointed what is easily my hardest indoor route yet. Mainly on shallow pockets with the crux whaling on a mono.  I love routes so much. Every time I put a rope on this winter I realise how much I miss it.

A lazy week this week, consumed by new car stuff and fear for my fingers, although this weekend has been a pleasant surprise as to how well they've recovered. Should really have done pure strength training in lieu of climbing in the week though. 

[Luthor]

STG  - Stay psyched (going well so far), train hard, not get injured...
MTG  - F8a Sport route in 2011. Add to the fairly small list of font 7b bouldering ticks.


Mon     - busy / rest
Tue     - bouldering sess at works. felt weak and tired
Wed     - Stamina pyramid session at the Edge. up-down-up. 5,6a,6a+,6b,6a+,6a,5
Thurs   - Lunchtime interval sess on 20° board @ Works. 5k run after work. Pushups
Fri     - rest
Sat     - Ill with a cold. puntered round damp RHS & failed on a problem Barratt thinks is easy :-)
Sun     - rest / ill

[Luthor]

Great week - strength coming back and my 2nd 7B (and in a session)... onwards and upwards, hoping the weather behaves!

Excellent - good work!

[205Chris]

STGs: Recover from trashed Achilles heel. Chip Shop Brawl / Tierdrop / Sole Power.

MTGs: Sport 8a, Powerband

M: Fingerboard session
T: Nada
W: Fingerboard
T: Nada
F: Went to Rowtor to try My Apple. Really good climbing but struggling to find a sequence that works in the groove. Finished the afternoon at the Andle stone. While demonstrating the beta for a friend on the 7b wall I tear straight through a tip on one of the crimps. 
S: Back to My Apple. Found a sequence that will work but still failed to get it in the bag. Then go for a wander across Stanton to do a few things including the Presence of Absence, an amazing arete. Despite the top being wet I had a look at Spare Rib to try out the moves. Another one for this winters ticklist.
S: Birchen. Easy bouldering and lots of fun / stupid made up eliminates.

Bit of a mixed week. On a positive note it's good to be out on the grit again for the first time in three weeks and looks like my heal is almost fully recovered. Disappointed not to get My Apple, it is however one of the best boulder problems I've been on in a long time, can't remember the last time I was so psyched to get a problem done.

[Muenchener]

STG: Strength Phase of Winter Training Plan. Complete Thalkirchen red & green bouldering circuits by 5th March. Current score: 8/18
200 practice falls before Easter. Current score: 22
MTG: Mittlere Weisse Wand, Konstein. 6b os in Arco at Easter
LTG: 7a rp; classic big Vs / VIs at local crags (Kaisergebirge, Wetterstein etc.) e.g. West Face Totenkirchl

This week: effective use of a business trip to north Germany to flirt with overtraining.

M: Bouldering, Paderborn
T: Bouldering, Bielefeld. Was impressed by the German Alpine Club's bouldering facility at Speicher1: see visit or avoid thread.
W: yoga
T: Bouldering, Paderborn. Short session, elbows & fingers feeeling tweaky: not fully recovered from Sunday to Tuesday three days on.
F:
S: swimming
S: Wall, Gilching with Frau Muenchener. Good session for learnng stuff. Noticed that I waste a lot of energy swapping feet to get into backstep positions, or trying to, when a quick flag would do the job. Technique mtg: become quicker at spotting and using flagging opportunities. Falling practice remains pretty homeopathic, but at least I actally did some this week.

[lagerstarfish]

M - Mardy
T - Mardi, not mardy. 15 routes on auto-belay with pressups in between. 20 mins running machine
W - 15 routes on auto-belay with pressups in between. 20 mins running machine
Th - Moonlight/lantern session at Burbage South boulders (99.9% full moon). About 40 easy problems and a few eliminates. Buzzing with lunacy so hardly slept
F - No skin, tired. Long Socratic night walk with oldest child.
S - Climbing Works with family followed by an unexpected hour of plastic for myself - didn't get injured
Su - Day Of Rest

[shark]

Thanks TomTom - good work on Sean's.

Weight 11.6-7 (same as last week)  Aims

M Eve. Edge Coaching/benchmarking session detailed on blog
T  Eve. 4x4 routes session with Duncan at Edge. Struggled.
W.
T. Noon. Some DB and max hangs. 3 finger drags better. Eve. Shed 10 reps of 6 hard moves. Good session.
F. Noon. Some max hangs and pulls. Average. Eve. Fingers felt creaky. Foundry 3 reps of 6 hardish problems. Struggled to top any of them. Should have done AeroCap bouldering after but couldnt face it.
S. BYCS comp in Nottingham. Boys did good. Drove to Dales with family and stayed B&Bed in Long Preston at the Maypole Inn (recommended) 
S. Malham. AM. Met ShortRound and biscuit. Led F&E and TR'd it 2x. Went on Oak as it was surprisingly dry. Big mistake - got spanked. Dogged up Raindogs. Did 5 laps on Consenting. TR'd Tom on Consenting and he did all the moves - good effort considering how reachy it was.

Good session on Monday but found it hard going for the rest of the week. Weight not going down but 'feel' light which is usually a good sign that its about to come off. Was soooo weak on the Oak. Keep the faith.

[Falling Down]

M - Long day travelling and working.  Travelodge workout PM.  Burpees, 3 x 5 HSPU's, Various Squats and 100 Pressups
T - Workday from hell
W - Workday from hell II - Beer
T - Workday from hell III - Beer
F- Long workday, planned to climb/train but just ended up walking dogs - Wine
S - Nice afternoon out with TomTom. Trackside (total dismay at volume of chalk being splattered around with no brushing), some thing down and L from Guerilla Warfare, several attempts at Sean's Arete. - Beer
S - Wanted to climb, no time. Ran to the supermarket and back 1 hr. - Wine

Bit of a shit week all round. Working too hard, travelling too much, not enough time, drank too much. 

Apart from TomTom doing Sean's Arete which was great 

[duncan]

M - Shoulder stability stuff
T - Shoulder stability stuff
W - Arch: brief bouldering session V2/3s
T - Graduation ceremony (not the Gogarth route) - Wine, food, late night.
F - Arch: good bouldering session with scourge of the bolt-clippers.  V4s.
S - Shoulder stability stuff
S - Dancing Ledge bolt-clipping with scourge of the bolt-clippers.  Perfect conditions and deserted.  Where were you all? Grey-pointed a 6b+, red-pointed a 6c and did the moves on a 7a.

Good week: I got to dress up in medieval costume and had decent sessions indoors and out.  Need to start anaerobic endurance training now.

[Muenchener]

Grey-pointed a 6b+

??

[i_a_coops]

STG: The Terrace, get route fit
MTG: 8a
LTG: 8A

M - Iffley, vert finger strength session.
T - Power session at bouldering wall, followed by circuits. Power not bad, christ I am unfit though...
W - Routes, good session
T - Utterly trashed, try and do some volume on 6b+ and below routes. Fell of a 6b+. I got da skillz!
F - rest
S - Stanage Plantation, good day including first tick off last year's list of failures (Captain Hook). Also provided ace beta for Three Nine.
S - Burbage North. Did a lot of 5s and 6s, did the moves on The Terrace, managed some good links but far too wasted to finish it off. Distressingly, I had to watch some people warm up on it. 

I now have no skin and my entire body hurts. ONE DAY I am going to live less than 3 hours from decent rock and won't have to do weekend trips!
 

[Barratt]

Second week of illness = doing nothing at all.

Hope to start climbing again on Tuesday. Would like to get up to almscliff on saturday, hope the weather is decent!

[nai]

season goals - 7C, grit E4
2011 goals - Brad Pit, Flakey Wall, Resurrection, 8a,
 
M - couple of hours at Curbar around the Moon area, few easier problems, solos and highballs and a quick 7A+ to finish off.
t
w
T - A beautiful day at Froggatt (only 4 degrees but t-shirt weather in the sun) - fingers still a bit sore after Monday, tried Rambeau for the second time but still couldn't do the move off the slopey hold, then Ape Drape which I hoped to flash but couldn't even do the final crimpy moves after several attempts.
F - An hour at Gardoms trying Soft on the G, knew it wasn't going to be my day when the Little Nose problem took several goes and still felt hard when I did manage it.  No cigar, infact not even close.
s - core (planks and leg raises), wide pressups, dips.
s

Oddness, 7A+ in a few goes but then can't make, let alone link, moves on 7Bs.  In a bit of a lean spell, need to break out of it somehow.

[webbo]

Goals
Recover from knee and back/side injury.
Mon.weights best session since stating again possibly for about 4 years.
Tue. deadhanging added 4lb weight on all 2 handed stuff.
Wed.rockcity. back/side went again after about an hour.seems to be when i do left footed rock overs.wine.
Thu.docs he thinks its a disc.where as the osteo thought it was muscular.Hmmmm.
Fri.wine.
Sat. deadhanging with added 4lbs.weights. bike 2 1/2 hours.
Sun.deadhanging repeaters fell apart on second set 5 diffrent finger combos.bike 3 hours.felt battered.wine.

plan try not to climb till next weeend even if back feels ok.

[GCW]

Short term goals
Do my local cross country (5.8km) in under 30 minutes (big ask I think)
Sort out the bad knee.
Tick something, anything, from my 2011 aims list!

Medium Term goals
Climb font 7c in 2011 (still a bit ambitious).
Continue trying to keep the weight down (aim for 83kg)- also a bit ambitious!
Do my Winter Hill run in under 43:12 (average 10kmh).
Finish off my remaining esoteric Lancs Quarry projects.




M-  F.
T-  U.
W-  C.
T- K.

F-  A.
S-  L.
S-  L.

Monday weigh in of 85.5kg. 

[chris_j_s]

Still coughing up bits of lung this week - the after effects of flu - and my power endurance has taken a massive and disappointing hit as a result. Coming from the best I've ever felt a few weeks back this seems like a big setback.

M:
T: PE Circuits at Ingleton. Struggling to get round circuits which recently I was doing multiple times without stepping off the wall. Coughing fits between sets!
W:
T:
F:
S: 5 hour walk in the Lakes.
S: Routes at Kendal. Onsighting up to 6c+. Got more pumped than I've ever thought possible on a long steep 6c+ purely due to rope drag - had a mild panic at the possibility of not actually having enough left to pull sufficient rope up to clip the chains!!

On the plus side I've been able to climb without finger tape for the first time in 3 months this week so not all bad.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals:

Routes: STG: F7b+ in a session. MTG: Redpoint F7c/7c+ LTG: Redpoint F8a.
Boulder: STG: 7A+ in a session MTG: 7B in a session. LTG: 7B+/7C.

M: Beastmaker - Neds Planet Fear workout, managed it twice... Ouch!
T: 4x4's with Simon - Not a bad session, mixed up the angles a bit and got the intensity just about right.
W: Rest - Watch the Arsenal beat Leeds - YYFY!
T: Linked boulder session - 3 sets of hard(ish) long(ish) problems... Trashed!
F: Bouldering @ Owler tor, Mothercap and Secret Garden - Did a bunch of pretty easy stuff (6a-6cish) including Conan which I realised I'd not done before... Looked at some harder stuff. Nice to be out!
S: AM AeroCap or ARC or whatever you call it now.. session  - 4 x 10 minutes hanging about going up, down and traversing on the back wall at the works (sorry to all those whose way I got in)...
PM Weights and pulls - Full arm, shoulder and leg workout as directed by the coach! Took me ages and left me feeling broken..
S: Rest - Walk in't Peak and a well earned pint..

A bit more like it! First week of the new training plan and looking at it written down makes me realise why I'm feeling a little bit tired today... Always knew the first few weeks would feel hard tho...

This week: More of the same.. Only harder and more of it!! Sleep more...

:D

[ummagumma]

STG: Climb 7A by end of March

Left Shoulder wass acting up last week to took it easy at the beginning ...

M Rest
T Rest
W Rest
T Bouldering I/D. Tiv. Two hour session. Overhanging problems. Shoulder so-so. Still not the best.
F I'm calling it Rest. Well I hopped up on the Fingerboard for 15 mins but I don't think that should count. Piss poor.
S Bouldering I/D. Tiv. Two hour session. Overhanging problems. No really motivated.
S Bouldering O/D. Muh. Oh Yeah. No problems with the shoulder. Result. Felt strong (for me). Nailed the crux move on one of my projects. Great day outside. 

A week of two halves. Since yesterday I fell really motivated to start training hard. Put the head down of a few weeks and then destroy outside. Come on.

[seankenny]

S - Dancing Ledge bolt-clipping with scourge of the bolt-clippers.  Perfect conditions and deserted.  Where were you all?

Playing Monopoly with my cousin!
Hopefully equally good conditions next week...

[andybfreeman]

First post for a while due to a fairly crap period of training with xmas and illness combining to leave me feeling as weak a a kitten! However, the last week has been ace and so I'm psyched again and with a font trip planned for Easter I'm back into training mode

STG - get out to the grit more while conditions remain good. More 7B and 7B+ problems including t-crack
MTG - 7C in the forest in Easter (might be ambitious but worth trying really hard for). Cider Soak @ Anstey's if conditions and my PE can be synchronised!

M - rest day after TCA comp on Sat then long session on Sunday
T - long (4hr) session at TCA. Felt really good fro the first time since before xmas, like the gravity had been turned down! repeated loads of problems that felt nails when first down and ticked 3 oranges that hadn't been done before.
W - 3hr session at TCA. Mix of circuits and problems. felt brilliant on purple 7b circuit but then fell of the last move of the yellow 7a! only diff is numberr and difficulty of moves with yellow being longer and more stamina-ey.
Th - Another 3 hours at TCA. pissed yellow circuit first go then repeated 3 more times to ch3eck it wasn't a fluke. Had panned to leave early-ish but got distracted by a mate trying problems and got stuck in. Did another couple of problems that I hadn't done before.
F - rest
Sa - stanage plantation. great day despite slightly damp conditions. Ticked Ben's reverse for my first UK 7B and then did to be or not to be on the first go that i stuck the start! Tried deliverance, got close but trashed my right shoe on pebble, gave up when it was so dark i couldn;t see where to place my feet!
Su - back to stanage. Did greentraverse and then managed to do deliverance - my first 7B+  . tried help the young but lack of skin meant i couldn't ignore the pain when catching the right crimp.

Weight = 67.9kg this morning. Heavier than I'd like but moving in the right direction at least (c. 70kg at xmas!)

[duncan]

Grey-pointed a 6b+

??

When you think you've onsighted a route only to discover later that you had done it in 2004. 

S - Dancing Ledge bolt-clipping with scourge of the bolt-clippers. 

photos?

Could have 

[Andy F]

Goals - 8b, 7B+.

Tues - circuits at the Hanger, then some random problems to finish off. 60 problems in 2 hrs.
Wed - beastmaker. 40 mins repeaters and pull-ups
Thurs - rest
Fri - 45 mins intensive beastmaker repeaters and pull-ups.
Sat - family
Sun - Trowbarrow bouldering. Get spanked on everything I tried, but at least I failed on a harder grade of problem than usual, which is an improvement of sorts. Felt beasted afterwards, which was good.

[Nibile]

mon - Beastmaker. one arm dead hangs. 20°, big rung, 35°, right eye, small rung, mid2, front2 x 5 sets. help when needed.
tue - rest.
wed - wall. 2,5 hours. set a few new problems. repeated old problems with weight vest at 4 kg. overall tired and not sparky.
thu - rest.
fri - wall. light session, easy circuits. pumped. one armers, bicep curl supersets.
sat - rest. hungover.
sun - bouldering!!! YYFY!!! good!!!
bring it.

[aly]

LTG: 7C and 8a, might have to drop these a bit
MTG: sort finger out and get climbing again.
STG: sort out bloody skin problems which mean my 1st finger is totally unusable.

Mon: Indoor bouldering session, finger not feeling too bad so slowly getting back into things
Tues: Intervals road running session, fairly hard.  Then pull-up session on the bar, managed from 90 to the top again with 2kg assistance so I'm back where I was pre-xmas.
Weds: Went boulding at eatswood, got comprehensively spanked but I did manage the V0 slab (it only took about 15 goes).  Not looking good for this real climbing lark
Thurs: Run, 3.7 miles, fast pace, knackered.  Pull up session, one-arm locks getting a bit better, and front levers aren't miles off to happy enough.
Fri: Fairly brief pull up and fingerboard session
Sat: Even briefer pull up session
Sun: Churnet action, went to Cottage rocks and managed to work a selection of the Font 5 problems.  Had a quick play on Ousal low and the holds have all got bigger which was nice (didn't really have time to properly try the full link).

Next week I'm going to try and start some sort of proper systematic training cycle so will see how it goes for a couple of weeks.

[chris05]

M: pull-ups, press-ups, BM (3x30 foot on moves, repeaters & max hangs), weights & core (500)
T: pull-ups, press-ups, BM (3x30 foot on moves, repeaters & max hangs), weights & core (500)
W: swim (60 lengths) & core (500)
T: nothing (pub)
F: swim (60 lengths)
S: bouldering at cratcliffe and RHS
S: nothing

Quite a good week overall, good to get out again, didn't get up anything new but did feel strong and improved on previous bests. I got back into swimming, partly due to calf injury but also to get fit for surf trip to morocco in march.

[al123]

STG- more grit font 7a's
MTG- onsight more E1 and E2's


M- core session, felt good.
T- rest
W- work.
T- the climbing works, felt good but didnt warm up enough so got pumped fairly quickly but did some good problems on the comp wall.
F- worked
S- trackside, after doing trackside last week did it first time then first time again later, did trackside dyno too. and tried the bad lip but couldnt rock over. good day
S- worked.

A good week all in all, trackside my first 7a and trackside dyno my first 7b but its 7a if you tall i think.

[Boogster]

STG- 6c+
MTG- 7a in Font at Easter


M - essay-writing
T - 2.5 hours at the Matrix. Felt shattered.
W - essay-writing
T - Matrix. Felt really strong, flashed problems all over the place, then 'small pop', and my left ring finger goes. Fuck.
F - Finger feels like shit.
S - Finger feels slighly better
S -  

What a fucking nightmare. I injured my right hand ring finger at the beginning of October but now I'm well and truly recovered from that I've injured the same finger on the other hand, in exactly the same way! I think it's flexor unit rather than pulley (the pain seems to be concentrated in the palm rather than finger itself), and it doesn't seem to be quite as bad as the last one. It already feels a lot improved. Nevertheless, I hope these aren't going to become chronic. I guess I need to warm up more thoroughly or something... 

[iain]

and then managed to do deliverance - my first 7B+  .

Good effort Andy   

[James Yeah]

Forgot this last week and nearly forgot this week.

LTG: Sport 7a, boulder 7a.

Mon: Went Roaches, did a few things including Joe's Arete and other easy probs, decided to have a relaxed day.
Tue:  Rest
Wed: Indoor climbing, few 6a+s, 6b and 6c  (top roped) Then bouldered for an hour after.
Thur: Indoor climbing, Onsighted a couple of 6b's, worked the moves on a 7a+ then bouldered for a few hours.
Fri:  2 hours indoor bouldering, did some new problems and one i'd been working on.
Sat: Rest
Sun: 2 hours indoor bouldering, flashed a few new problems, had a good time.


Next week might not be so great as i've done the flexor unit in my middle finger a couple of days ago, can barely close my hand or move my finger,  hoping it'll heal quickly as it's my first finger injury and i'm making sure i rest it and ice it a lot.  Typical it happens just as i'm starting to feel relatively okay again.