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Malcolm Smith and starvation dieting (Read 2480 times)

Teaboy

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Malcolm Smith and starvation dieting
January 21, 2011, 03:33:51 pm
Reading through an old article on training by Malc  Smith he talks about the extreme dieting he went through to climb Hubble and how it helped him jump two grades so it this obviously had a hugely beneficial effect on his climbing. He then goes on to says it was totally the wrong thing to do and he wouldn't recommend it but doesn't go into details about the down sides. Does anyone know the speciific reasons why not, rather than general comments about starvation diets etc, as I understand the potential long term health issues from sustaining this sort of thing. However, as a one off for an otherwise healthy person I can't see a downside (besides the fact I'm a greedy bastard and any attempt at this sort of thing will go the way of my "10 pull ups every morning" routine or my attempt to out a campus board up in the kitchen)

shark

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#1 Re: Malcolm Smith and starvation dieting
January 21, 2011, 04:26:30 pm
I seem to recall he was carted off to hospital.

There is good general advice by Dave Mac in 9 out of 10 climbers. Other training books avoid the issue. He suggests monitoring body fat and thinks that generally 10% is sustainable dipping to 5% for peak performance for blokes IIRC. He also has guidance on re-fuelling after training etc. Worth getting.

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