Sat: brilliant day ... possible first repeat of an old Damian Cook font 7a roof problem from years ago, then moved back to previous day's venue and did a great link on my new route project then redpointed the 7c.
Quote from: 205Chris on January 16, 2011, 10:21:13 pmQuote from: i_a_coops on January 16, 2011, 09:12:21 pmr.e. campusing: I went through a phase of trying to have a campus session once a week when i was bouldering 7a+/b and trying desperately to move upwards, being able to do 147 had far more effect on my ego than on my climbing grade though! Also it was a bit misguided I think as I was already over-strong for the grade I was climbing.Interesting point but it looks like I've got the opposite problem to you as I have it on good authority I'm quite weak for the grades I climb. Not as weak for the grade as others around here (Shark, TimBroughtonshaw, me...)
Quote from: i_a_coops on January 16, 2011, 09:12:21 pmr.e. campusing: I went through a phase of trying to have a campus session once a week when i was bouldering 7a+/b and trying desperately to move upwards, being able to do 147 had far more effect on my ego than on my climbing grade though! Also it was a bit misguided I think as I was already over-strong for the grade I was climbing.Interesting point but it looks like I've got the opposite problem to you as I have it on good authority I'm quite weak for the grades I climb.
r.e. campusing: I went through a phase of trying to have a campus session once a week when i was bouldering 7a+/b and trying desperately to move upwards, being able to do 147 had far more effect on my ego than on my climbing grade though! Also it was a bit misguided I think as I was already over-strong for the grade I was climbing.
Quote from: Andy F on January 17, 2011, 11:04:23 amQuote from: 205Chris on January 16, 2011, 10:21:13 pmQuote from: i_a_coops on January 16, 2011, 09:12:21 pmr.e. campusing: I went through a phase of trying to have a campus session once a week when i was bouldering 7a+/b and trying desperately to move upwards, being able to do 147 had far more effect on my ego than on my climbing grade though! Also it was a bit misguided I think as I was already over-strong for the grade I was climbing.Interesting point but it looks like I've got the opposite problem to you as I have it on good authority I'm quite weak for the grades I climb. Not as weak for the grade as others around here (Shark, TimBroughtonshaw, me...)So what's your key? Would you say you have good to very good power endurance though training? Or does that and good aerobic stamina come through years of climbing routes?Cheers