[Paul B]

Bouldering Trip USA by mammutphoto, on Flickr

Its been a year since I returned from what was a fantastic Euro tour. As we'd just ticked a load of venues off the "to do" list and as my better half didn't wish to return to any of these venues instantly (she fancied a little while to improve further despite the rapid improvement over the 6 month period) we decided to explore a bit more of what the UK had to offer.

Whilst I still fully intend to follow this line of thought I'll be finishing what I hope is my final stint in education this year. Technically by March, realistically Sept (so Oct/Nov trip) and feel like a more extravagant climbing holiday (2-3 weeks max!) is in order.

The problem is where do I (/we) start? We've still got quite a gap between us and there's a huge difference in personal preference. Ideally I'd like a 3 month trip but thats not likely for a while at least. Could people offer their views on the following:

Hueco
Bishop
Squamish
Utah
Colorado
Red River Gorge
Yosemite / Toulmne

or are there better venues that I should consider instead?

i.e.
Rocklands
Oz
New Zealand

I know its a bit vague and would be helpful if I could rule ropes in or out but I've asked a bunch of people over the last few weeks and had a varied response. The least helpful of which was from a well seasoned boulderer (lots of salt easy on the pepper) who with a long pause... finally answered "Font".

[Adam Lincoln]

Well, with 2/3 weeks max, you may as well rule out Oz and New Zealand. Go when you have more time!
Yosemite bit iffy towards the time you are planning on going. Bishop and Hueco a tad warm still.
Colorado bouldering ie, RMNP might be a bit snowy towards the tail end of your dates.
Squamish risky weather wise then.
Rocklands not really the season either.

Does it have to be Oct/Nov? You are ruling a lot of stuff out based on personal experience.

[Paul B]

I'd say after Sept is the main point although I would like it to be this year!

[SA Chris]

Just some quick thoughts -

October / November Rocklands will be be getting pretty damned hot (as will Oz, assuming you are thinking of Grampians / Arapiles), and Squamish pretty wet. Although you could get lucky.

2 weeks is a pretty short time for NZ, I think you need 3 weeks minimum to make the most of a trip there. It's a bloody long way.

Any of the US venues will be good, but Colorado will be beginning to get pretty chilly, I think Rockies often get heavy snows by early / mid November.

[Paul B]

I think you need 3 weeks minimum to make the most of a trip there.

Three weeks is possible, but that'll be it for the year. No other days spare so a lot would be riding on a good holiday.

[Johnny Brown]

For that length trip in autumn I'd suggest Tuolomne-Yosemite-Bishop. Incredible scenery for your camera, plus the option for some mind-blowing trad experiences with a very lightweight rack (eg Snake Dyke - rack 2x quickdraws, 2x screwgates - top out on Half Dome!!!)

[SA Chris]

I think you need 3 weeks minimum to make the most of a trip there.

Three weeks is possible, but that'll be it for the year. No other days spare so a lot would be riding on a good holiday.

If you plan going out there at another time for longer I would save it for that TBH.

[Paul B]

a very lightweight rack (eg Snake Dyke - rack 2x quickdraws, 2x screwgates - top out on Half Dome!!!)

Can you qualify how you can get away with that little?

[Adam Lincoln]

a very lightweight rack (eg Snake Dyke - rack 2x quickdraws, 2x screwgates - top out on Half Dome!!!)

Can you qualify how you can get away with that little?

Its like walking upstairs!

[Paul B]

Haha



check out 3:57

[Johnny Brown]

Can you qualify how you can get away with that little?

There's no gear other than the bolts! We soloed it and overtook a bunch of parties with full racks, all of whom were cursing the fact that they'd ignored the advice to take just a few draws. Its totally piss other than a little S or VS traverse on either the 2nd or 3rd pitch , but you'll never forget it - fuckin brilliant.

[Carnage]

I'd say after Sept is the main point although I would like it to be this year!

How late after Sept (or possibly late Sept/early Oct)?

Late Sept and through Oct is often an ideal time for the Grampians as Victoria stays cooler longer than NSW. Hoepfully, it will be a dry winter this year due to La Nina - (wet summer/dry winter?) so it could be great. You can get away with a sport rack and few cams for most of the stuff on Taipan or just boulder the whole time. If you can get 3 straight weeks, that should be plenty if you're staying there the whole time. The bouldering is amazing and the new guide should get you psyched if you can get hold of a copy (its pretty cheap direct from Grampians Bouldering.com). There's alot of stuff at every grade and its a magical place to spend time. You can either slum it in Stapylton campground in a tent or van or go higher class and rent one of the lodges at Mt Zero (if they haven't been washed away) as these are still cheap for your english pounds. This would be my choice at these times considering what others have said above.

[hairich]

i agree with j brown.me and le did yosemite to bishop in october and it was mint.have got loads of trip info if ya need it paul pm me

[Paul B]

How late after Sept (or possibly late Sept/early Oct)?

I can't really say for sure. I'm hoping a 6 month overrun will be enough so its the end of Sept by my reckoning.

[Stubbs]

Bishop is flipping amazing and you'll crush there being the crimp waif you are.  If you go to Yosemite first to flagellate yourself on some cracks and Tioga close, you can always go round via Lake Tahoe and take in some steep sport/bouldering/gambling/all you can eat sushi for $8 (delete as appropriate) before heading down to Beeshop.

[T_B]

I wouldn't go to Oz for just 2 weeks, maybe 3 though. I was there from September through to January and I would be cautious of recommending September/October. There was hardly a soul there in late September and it was cold. Best time is November, or tuther side i.e. spring. Tis a great place tho to mix up well-protected trad with hard moves, awesome featured sport-trad style (though you need a strongish head for some of Taipan and an ability to levitate between features is handy. Bouldering as well of course.

States is the cheaper option, and as JB says, though Tuolmne might be chilly later on. And Bishop isn't everyone's cuppa (too rough/crimp orientated for me). Thing with the Valley is the bouldering is world class, the trad is world class, and there are even some brilliant sport routes.

Rocklands was hot in August last yr, I'd avoid in their summer.

[Paul B]

States is the cheaper option, and as JB says, though Tuolmne might be chilly later on. And Bishop isn't everyone's cuppa

Peoples opinions on Bishop seem very mixed.

[T_B]

States is the cheaper option, and as JB says, though Tuolmne might be chilly later on. And Bishop isn't everyone's cuppa

Peoples opinions on Bishop seem very mixed.

Yeah, TBH I'd like to go again as I didn't really give it a chance last time. Totally trashed my skin on day 1 like a punter and never recovered really. The air is soooo dry up there. Not a good venue if you have eczema! There are some stunning features/boulders though and the town itself is cool.

[Stubbs]

People complain about the roughness at Bishop but it just wears your skin differently to Font or Grit for example.  If you take it easy and just do volume for a few days you soon develop iron hide fingertips and can pull on the tinies with no pain.  I went there for two and a half weeks in March 2009, climbed every day except 2 and came away with no splits.  A lot of people who whine about it seem to have dropped in on their way to or from Yos about ten years ago, when all they really wanted to do was trad climb, and it was probably too hot (it is in a desert after all).   There are also plenty of problems of all grades at the 'milks that don't involve any sharp holds at all.

Call me a heretic or whatever, but if the costs were the same I'd rather go there for two weeks than Font.

[AndyR]

Call me a heretic or whatever, but if the costs were the same I'd rather go there for two weeks than Font.

Me too - every time.

[Carnage]

I would be cautious of recommending September/October. There was hardly a soul there in late September and it was cold. Best time is November

Really? - late Sept, early Oct is often rockin - Esp with around the October public holiday. I've been in Oct before and its been perfect (the average temp for Sept to Nov is 20 degrees), but Nov often has many much warmer days. Fine for Taipan but not if you want to boulder anything hardish.

[SA Chris]

Call me a heretic or whatever, but if the costs were the same I'd rather go there for two weeks than Font.

Heretic or whatever.

Snowboard at Mammoth on rest days versus wander around Carrefour hmmm, which sounds better.

[T_B]

I would be cautious of recommending September/October. There was hardly a soul there in late September and it was cold. Best time is November

Really? - late Sept, early Oct is often rockin - Esp with around the October public holiday. I've been in Oct before and its been perfect (the average temp for Sept to Nov is 20 degrees), but Nov often has many much warmer days. Fine for Taipan but not if you want to boulder anything hardish.

There wasn't much bouldering developed when I was there and the focus was certainly on Tapian, so I guess that's why I remember November as being the best month. Am sure mid October was good too, I just remember waking up to hail stones when I arrived in late September and scratting around for ppl to climb with.

[Paul B]

For that length trip in autumn I'd suggest Tuolomne-Yosemite-Bishop. Incredible scenery for your camera, plus the option for some mind-blowing trad experiences with a very lightweight rack (eg Snake Dyke - rack 2x quickdraws, 2x screwgates - top out on Half Dome!!!)

This is starting to sound like a plan (that or Johnny is doing well at moving me away from boards and grooming me for some other purpose  )

I know its much shorter but did you do Seperate Reality whilst you where there? Any other rec's for the trad section or any particulalry good reading on the matter?

(Finally I'll have an excuse to get an LX3/5 as I'm not carrying the SLR up those f*ckers!)

[Johnny Brown]

There wasn't much bouldering developed when I was there and the focus was certainly on Tapian, so I guess that's why I remember November as being the best month

I went to Taipan in the first week of December and it was far too hot even for sport. The locals suggested april or sept were the best times for routes, or winter for bouldering.

This is starting to sound like a plan (that or Johnny is doing well at moving me away from boards and grooming me for some other purpose  )

  Going to Yosemite is one of the great experiences in life. You'll not forget, or regret it.

I know its much shorter but did you do Seperate Reality whilst you where there? Any other rec's for the trad section or any particulalry good reading on the matter?

Got your name all over it! I suggested Snake Dyke initially because you wouldn't need to pack a rack. There are many other mega-classic routes but you'd need at least a rack of cams. Nuts are less useful, and I'd say racks are on average smaller than in the uk. Its usual to double up on cams for some routes though.

(Finally I'll have an excuse to get an LX3/5 as I'm not carrying the SLR up those f*ckers!)